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This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.
Follow this guide to remove or replace the battery in your Google Pixel 7a.
Lithium-ion batteries have a limited lifespan. If your phone doesn't hold a charge or dies unexpectedly, it might be time to replace the battery.
Note: This guide uses the Verizon model Google Pixel 7a (G0DZQ), which has a 5G mmWave antenna. If you have a different carrier model, some photos in this guide differ, but the procedure is the same.
If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
You'll need replacement adhesive in order to complete this repair.
Note: Any repair can compromise the water resistance of your phone. Retaining water resistance after the repair will depend on how well you reapply the adhesive.
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Unplug any cables from your phone and fully power it down.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the rear cover for three minutes.
If you have an IR Thermometer or Thermal Camera, you're going for 85C/185F. Even with mini heat guns, this comes up fast; just a few seconds of heat.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backward to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over the bottom edge of the phone, with one suction cup on the rear cover and one on the screen.
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Squeeze the cups together to create suction.
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Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
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Turn the handle clockwise one full turn (360 degrees), or until the suction cups begin to stretch.
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As the cups stretch, make sure they stay aligned with each other. If they keep slipping, remove the Anti-Clamp and apply tape for the cups to stick to.
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Place an object under your phone so it rests level while between the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Wait one minute, or until the adhesive separates, for a gap to form along the bottom edge of the phone.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap between the rear cover and the frame.
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Remove the suction cups from the phone using their pull-tabs and set the Anti-Clamp aside.
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Apply a suction handle to the center of the bottom edge of the rear cover.
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Pull up on the suction handle with a strong, steady force until a gap forms between the rear cover and frame.
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Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
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Remove the suction handle.
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The rear cover is secured with adhesive around the perimeter of the frame and near the cameras. Use this picture as a reference while you slice the adhesive.
There is also a plastic bezel attached to the rear cover which you DO NOT want to remove. It's a very similar (temperature wise) adhesive that connects that bezel to the cover, as connects the bezel & cover to the frame, but since only the frame side adhesive is provided in the kit, you want to try not removing that bezel from the rear cover.
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Angle the opening pick upward so the tip faces away from the frame.
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Slide your pick to the bottom left corner of the rear cover.
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Leave this pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Insert a second opening pick in the bottom left corner.
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Slide the new pick to the bottom right corner of the rear cover to separate the bottom edge adhesive.
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Leave this pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the rear cover for two minutes.
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Insert a third opening pick in the bottom right corner of the rear cover.
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Slide your pick up the right edge of the rear cover to separate its adhesive. Stop when you reach the camera bar.
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Leave this pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the rear cover for two minutes.
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Insert a fourth opening pick in the bottom left corner of the rear cover.
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Slide your pick up the left edge of the rear cover to separate the adhesive. Stop when you reach the camera bar.
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Leave this pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the rear cover for two minutes.
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Insert a fifth opening pick in the top left corner of the rear cover between 8 mm and 10 mm (0.3–0.4 in) deep, or just over halfway between the tip of the pick and the iFixit logo.
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Slide your pick halfway across the top edge to separate the antenna bracket adhesive. Stop at the halfway point along the top edge.
This is the trickiest part, because the camera bar wants to keep the back cover from lifting. It's like a break in the leverage, of the lower part of the case. Go easy.
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Pull your opening pick out to a depth of 3 mm.
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Slide your pick to the top right corner to slice the rest of the top edge adhesive.
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Roll the top edge pick so its flat edge is under the rear cover.
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Roll the picks on each side of the camera bar so their flat edges are under the camera bar.
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Use the opening picks under the camera bar to pry the top edge of the rear cover from the frame.
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Pry back and forth until the camera bar loosens.
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Slide the opening picks from the camera bar down the long edges of the rear cover to separate any adhesive that may have resealed.
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Remove the rear cover.
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Now is a good time to test your phone before sealing it up. Power it on and check that it works. Power it back down before you continue reassembly.
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Follow this guide to apply new adhesive and install your rear cover.
This reassembly link, "Follow This Guide" is really important. It's a shame they did it this way, but make a note of it for when you come back through.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the flash unit for one minute to soften the adhesive securing it to the logic board cover.
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Slide your pick under the right edge of the flash to separate the adhesive securing it to the cover.
Not a good place to pry as there is a little ridge blocking access to the flash unit. Just use a tweezer to slightly lift the other side of the cable, the unit comes out easily (with proper heating).
Cuidado en este procedimiento, algo dañe y el flash quedo en color azul.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tweezers$4.99
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If the copper tape lifted away with the flash, use tweezers or your fingers to remove the black foam residue from the logic board cover.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the underside of the flash for one minute.
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Hold the neck of the flash cable steady and use tweezers to peel and remove the copper tape from the flash unit.
It can be a little tricky applying the new copper tape. I was able to get through it by:
- Pressing down the black adhesive on the logic board cover,
- Lining up the new copper with the flash's backside,
- Sandwiching them both when pressing the flash back into place.
Did not find the new copper tape in my kit, and this was really confusing. Would be helpful to show the part, from the kit here.
I didn't notice the replacement copper tape until I got ready to put the back cover on again. In the kit, it's attached to the same piece of plastic that has the edge adhesive.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0iFixit Precision 4 mm Screwdriver Bit$2.99-
Use a 3IP Torx Plus driver to remove the thirteen 4.3 mm screws securing the logic board cover.
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Use a 1IP Torx Plus driver to remove the 1.5 mm screw securing the right edge of the cover.
The T2 Torx driver that came with the tool kit does not fit. It seems a bit too large. Is this really T2 Torx?
This is right. This is because the Pixel 7a uses Torx Plus screws, which are less commonly available than regular Torx bits. We're only able to provide regular Torx bits in our kits, for now. So, the bit size is slightly different to reduce the likelihood of stripping your screws out. When using the T2 bit to remove Torx Plus 1IP screws, use constant downward force to keep the bit fitting as well as possible.
こんにちは、1IPネジが少し舐めたので、交換しようと思っています、代替となるものはM1 1.5mmでしょうか？
結論から言うと、おそらくネジの専門家でも現物を見ないと判断できないので、長さ1.5mmのM1ネジを入手できるお店をご存知ならネジの現物を持っていって判断してもらうのが間違いないです。そのようなお店をご存知なくて、元々のネジが再利用できそうなら、再利用するのが正解だと思います。
私はPixel 7aの実機を持っていないのでネジ頭の種類は画像で判断するしかないのですが、おそらく低頭ネジ（pancake head、締め付け面が平ら）か皿ネジ（flat head、締め付け面が円錐形）かと思われます。トルクスプラスの1IPネジを作っているメーカーのサイズ表を見てみましたが、低頭ネジについては太さの情報がありませんでした。皿ネジについてはM0.9とM1の2種類の記載がありました。
仮にこの2種類のどちらかであるとしても、どちらかを判別するには専用の道具が必要になりますし、別のサイズの特注品の可能性もあります。また、自力で判別できたとしてもこのサイズのネジを扱っているのはネジの専門店だけだと思われますので、結局ネジの専門店に現物を持ち込んで相談するのが最適解になるかと思います。
なお、トルクスプラスIPネジと普通のトルクスネジではネジ頭の溝形状が異なるので、トルクスプラスIPネジを通常のトルクスドライバーで扱おうとすると隙間ができるはずです。そもそも強い締め付け力が必要な場所でもなさそうですし、ネジの締め付けや取り外しに問題ない程度の舐め具合であれば、元々のネジを再利用するのが現実的ではないかと思います。
なお、私はネジの専門家ではないですしPixel 7aの実機を持っているわけでもありませんので、上記の内容に問題がある可能性があることはご了承ください。また、不備を見つけた方がいらっしゃいましたら訂正していただければ幸いです。
最後に参考資料として、トルクスプラスネジの寸法規格表を紹介しておきます。どちらも英語です。
ポップリベット・ファスナー社のトルクスプラスねじパンフレット（PDF）（サイズ表は14ページ）
Servause -
Can’t remove T2 screw.
needs a T1 torx
It is unbelievably disingenuous to claim that the T2 Torx bit you supply fits the 1IP Torx Plus Screws. I'm sitting here with my phone half-dissembled searching Amazon to see if I can find a T1 Torx bit or a Torx Plus bit that can be delivered today. Hopefully anyone who reads this guide before buying, opens these comments and decides you aren't worth their time. I also plan to leave a review on the kit itself. I can't believe I paid $10 in shipping and waited a full week for this half-assed kit.
This si a scam, don't waste your money on this. They make you buy a hole set of tools even when the know the don't have the proper tools to get the work done! That T2 Torx IFIXIT is selling doesn't work.
Agree with previous comments. Included T2 bit does not even come close to fitting in the torx plus 1ip screw. Having to overnight a T1 bit in hopes it works.
After overnighting a precision bit set, it now appears that the T2 bit included in the iFixit kit may be out of spec. The T2 bit from the Amazon bit set fit as described and allowed me to complete the fix.
Aaron -
Got this far just to realize the same as above. The t2 bit that comes with the kit is wayyy to large to fit this screw
Also chiming in here to advise that the T2 bit supplied is too large...hopefully this gets addressed!
I am another person who is Too late to read this comment :). And further I have a Torx set with a T1 and even that doesnt work on this tiny complicated screw. I will be taking this to a local shop for repair and hope for some luck.
The provided T2 bit in the kit does not fit the screw here
I borrowed a friends T2 bit and it fit the screw perfectly. The ifixit T2 bit was the problem here.
Joseph -
This is a complete rip off to advertise a one stop shop kit and then knowingly include the wrong bit, which doesn't fit the phone. What a terrible experience. I've got a disassembled phone and now have to wait to order the proper bit. Never using ifixit again. Terrible experience.
I have a half disassembled phone that I can't take to work because of this t2 issue. Do not recommend
Read through the guide before buying the kit, but I wish I had read the comments. As mentioned by everyone else, they literally do not provide the proper tools in the battery replacement kit...
Can confirm that I wasn't able to unscrew the 1LP Torx plus screw with the torx 2 bit which came with the kit. I'm stuck with a half disassembled phone :(
My kit came with a 1lP bit in the battery package, so was able to complete the battery replacement no issues.
Mine was the same.
I was able to use a 0.7 Allen bit( i think its Allen, not sure though) from my Mako kit to unscrew it. the screw on my phone wasn't tight thankfully so it came off rather easily but if the screw is too tight it might strip the screw so beware
This needs to get fixed. Same issue as everyone else. Disassembled phone, now unable to fix it due to wrong bits included. Not very happy with ifixit.
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Insert an opening pick between the bottom right corner of the logic board cover and the frame.
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Pry up to release the clip securing the cover.
iFixit Staff - Please provide instructions for how to secure this clip during reassembly.
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Slowly lift the top edge of the logic board cover and thread the flash unit through its cutout.
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Remove the wireless charging assembly.
For Step 28, during reassembly, thread the flash through its cutout as you lower the logic board into place. (This note from Step 27 should really be provided here).
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tweezers$4.99
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Use your 1IP Torx Plus driver to remove the 1.5 mm screw securing the connector cover.
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Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the cover.
For my model (from T mobile), it is T1 Torx, not T2. The one underneath is also T1, not T2. In other words, a T1 Torx driver works OK but not T2.
Very unimpressed that you ship a product that does not have the correct hardware. This device needs a T1. Unable to get a T2 bit to work.
I was also unable to get the T1 screw out in this step. I'm not sure why the correct tools weren't just provided, but it creates an incredibly frustrating experience when trying to complete the repair.
Yeah, I had the same issue as the above people - and I literally don't have a T1 bit. I assumed the guide would include it.
I will be complaining, but first I have to figure out how to get a T1 bit.The ifixit T2 bit provided in the kit did not fit the screw. I borrowed another T2 bit of another brand from a friend and it fit perfectly on the screw.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger under the top edge of the battery press connector.
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Pry straight up to disconnect the battery press connector.
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Verizon models: Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the 5G mmWave press connector.
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Move the battery cable toward the bottom of the phone, out of the way of the battery.
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Verizon models: Move the 5G mmWave cable toward the top of the phone.
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Peel up both sides of the battery jacket from the battery.
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Two strips of adhesive secure the upper half of the battery. The battery jacket is just below these strips.
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Flip the phone over and use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to evenly heat the screen until the entire frame is warm to the touch.
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Firmly grip both sides of the battery jacket. Hold them at a low angle, but up high enough so they don't snag on any logic board components or the frame.
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Slide each end of the jacket toward the top of the battery in a sawing motion to cut through the bottom portion of adhesive.
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Stop sawing when the jacket reaches halfway up the battery.
This step should mention that if you use the battery jacket sawing motion up too far, you will for sure cut the 'side button tab' which is not mentioned until the next step. If you cut this tab, your volume buttons will no longer work, and you will need to purchase "Power On Off/Volume Buttons Flex with Flash Light Sensor for Google Pixel 7A" (iFixit does not sell this part). You will also then need to fully remove the logic board to replace that part. This really screwed me up.
I fully agree with Mekkel's comment - this step should have a warning about the side button tab, which is also black, touches the battery and will get cut with the "sawing motion". It is crazy that this is only mentioned in point 39!, when the damage is done.
I now need to get the new cable and replace it, including the complex motherboard removal (which may damage other parts if I rely on the poorly written iFix instructions.
Just did the same thing, UGH. Plan on just using menu controls and ditching the buttons since I don't want to open it again.
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Firmly pull up on each end of the battery jacket for one minute to slowly allow the adhesive to loosen.
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Fill a pipette or syringe with highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%).
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Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol between the left edge of the battery and the frame.
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Wait one minute for the adhesive to soften.
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Move the side button tab to the left, away from the battery.
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Insert the flat end of an opening pick between the left edge of the battery and the frame.
I broke the side button tab that is mentioned in step 39. How screwed am I? :'-(
Mine tore on the volume button side -- did your phone at least still turn on? Im hoping I can just control the volume from menus.
Same happened to me. Well, I'm actually sure it was broken before, like... When my battery swell so much it pushed open the phone and tore of the back cover slowly?
Anyway.... How to fix the side button tab? Cuz now the loud and quiet button is useless and its just some small, thin plastic, it seems
I just did the same thing -_-
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Firmly bend the opening pick away from the battery. Keep steady pressure on the pick for one minute.
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Once the adhesive begins to separate, slide your pick deeper under the battery and continue prying it up.
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Remove the battery.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tweezers$4.99
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Use the flat end of your spudger to scrape an edge of the old adhesive into a ball large enough to grip with a pair of tweezers.
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Use tweezers or your fingers to peel and remove the old adhesive from the frame.
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If any residue remains, apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to the frame and wipe it with a lint-free or microfiber cloth.
Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol works here on the residue. Dampen a cloth with either, and wipe over residue. You'll see it roll up.
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Peel the two strips of battery adhesive from their large liner.
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Apply the short strip of adhesive to the right side of the battery recess, using the white lines on the frame to position it.
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Apply the long strip of adhesive to the left side of the recess.
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Remove the blue liners from the adhesive strips.
Hardest part of this portion. As you can see in the photo, on the right, short strip, they might not lay flat (see bubble near top - the tweezers are pointing right at it). You might get a wrinkle, but you can't work that out. Little imperfections will be fine. What you DO NOT want to do, is try to recenter a piece once it touches. Once it touches, you are committed. If you try to pull it off, it will stretch and become a mess. Try your best to align it, and once it touches, you must lay it down.
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While holding the battery just above its recess in the frame, reconnect its cable.
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Press the battery into place.
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Disconnect the battery.
So, I wish they would NOT have said reverse the order after this step, and I can't comment there, so I will comment here. Step 20 has a link to the precise steps in applying the THREE adhesive components (perimeter, long skinny piece, and shorter wider strip). Be careful with all of these adhesive pieces. Keep scraps away from the assembly, and don't make contact until you want to commit to the placement.
...also, I believe this should say "Connect the battery."
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order, starting from this step.
Calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.
To run a diagnostics test with the built-in Pixel Diagnostic tool, click here.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order, starting from this step.
Calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.
To run a diagnostics test with the built-in Pixel Diagnostic tool, click here.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
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Guide Team crwdns2935289:0Guide Teamcrwdne2935289:0
Staff
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I may have made a mistake in this process. I have a question for you. How can I chat with you?
Through here is just fine! If you have a more general question, I might recommend you ask in the answers forum.
I have lost this part in the process of removing the cover. What should I do?
Which part did you lose?
This is the Picture .
Hello- I started to replace my battery, but I had two serious problems:
1) The small brass sticker under the flash had unstuck from it's lace on delivery. I eventually found it, but it was stuck to another piece of the packaging. As was the black foam. But, I am not sure if that's a problem yet because...
2) My Torx t2 bit DID NOT fit the one screw it was supposed to. Perhaps it was a t1? Now, I think I have stripped that screw out trying to make the T2 bit work.. I'm not sure what to do from her except get a new phone and request a refund from you.
I've put all the screws back in and resealed my phone, but the batter has not been changed. Thoughts?
Thank you,
~Paul
Beyond drilling it out, you can try dab some hot wax into the screw and see if you can make a bit get traction. Otherwise cut a small slot into the screw so you can use a small flat-head bit.
Great guide, however I ended up needing to buy a 1IP bit to complete the guide, otherwise I would have stripped the screw in step 29.
Yeah, I was too broke to pay their shipping again, and no hardware store locally had it - so my phone was unsafe to use for almost 2 weeks while I fought them to update the guide and kit.
Good guide, easy to follow and execute. However here are some tips to anyone else doing it:
- If you have trouble with the plastic tab under the battery, and don't have any isopropyl alcohol at hand, I can recommend (gently!) pushing some dental floss under the battery, and then working the adhesive loose. A long piece wound around two fingers gives better leverage - just be careful as not to rip off the little ribbon cable on the left side by the battery!
- It would have been nice to have a step on re-applying the back adhesive. I stuck it onto the phone itself, but I think that sticking it to the back glass would have been smarter, as I managed to twisted one edge.
- Also, I agree with @paulbernard & @peterfarkas1513 regarding the incorrect bit being specified/provided in the fix kit. I made the t2 bit work as I needed the phone up and running asap, but I could have been left with a stripped screw.
Finally, I'd recommend starting the phone after reconnecting the battery, before gluing it down, to make sure everything works.
Thanks for the excellent guide. The crisp, high-res photos and detailed explanations made a world of difference.
I can't imagine having to do this job without this guide.
Well done.
Don't Buy it! The tools they send doesn't work. Read the comments on the 25th step.
Very bad. The 1IP screw cannot be opened using the T2 bit provided. I'll ask for a refund.
Worked fine .. had to have some extra stuff other than the things provided .. having proper screw driver etc helped a lot. Would not like to take the screws out manually with tools provided.
Thanks
DO NOT use a Torx 2 driver. It will not work. Quickly order or request the right bits, you can only damage it, you cannot unscrew it, with any T2 bit I've found.
And their "compensation" is a $20 off $50 or more coupon, and some cheap stickers that advertise for them... Which is really a discount, not compensation
I can not open the Torx Plus 1IP screw with the provided Torx T2 in the kit (step 25)
The provided ifixit T2 bit did not fit the 2 1IP screws. I borrowed a friends' T2 bit of another brand and it fit the screw perfectly and I was able to complete the replacement.
Joseph -
Extremely disappointed. This "kit" does not include the required T-1 bit, but includes an unneeded Phillips bit. This is unacceptable.
Step 39 problem... Even tho I used step 37 method....
How to fix the side button tab if it broke off? I'm still pretty sure the battery did it when it tried to brake itself out of the case because it had developed Adipositas.... But problem remains the same and I can't find any replacement in store :((
背面カバーの接着剤は何をつかうのがベストですか？
よろしくお願いします
b-7000 が良いようですが、別のものでも大丈夫ですか？
Google純正の交換用接着剤を使うのがベスト、というのが模範回答だと思います。
このページの右上にある「必要な工具と部品」のパーツのコーナーにあるGoogle Pixel 7a Rear Cover Adhesive Set - Genuineが該当しますので、お求めの場合はそちらから購入するのがよろしいかと思います。
Servause -
Good guide, but a warning about the risk of cutting volume up/down cable in step 36 is needed. It is noted in step 39, but this is TOO LATE!
My pixel 7a battery expanded and in the process it caused a little tear in the black plastic thing between the wireless charging coil and the battery. I just want to ask if its okay to keep it or is the black plastic thing important?
If you purchased the iFixit kit, now is a good time to ensure you have all the parts: If you go to the kit page, and expand Kit Contents, you'll see the full list. The full list contains links to details on adhesive sets. These links are also in this guide document, in the upper right, in a scrollable window.⏎
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Newer batteries seem to come with the 1IP Torx Plus bit taped in the tray of the battery part tray (Repair Part box). It is not in the Tools, found in the Repair Tools box (if you purchased the Fix Kit).⏎
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Familiarize yourself with all the parts, including the six adhesive items. Ensure none of the components fell behind the parts tray and are left in the parts box (they are tiny adhesive tabs). The adhesive is VERY sticky. Don't remove the backing until you are ready to use, and then be prepared to lay the piece in place once ANY contact is made. Removal, even an edge, to better align an adhesive part is often not possible(!). The adhesive will stretch and bunch up.⏎
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As noted at the beginning of the guide, proper installation of the adhesive is required to maintain water resistance, but also to transfer heat correctly.
Chris Romer - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0