Patagonia Sewing Glossary

• Hand sewing stitch: A class of stitches where the needle moves (and individual stitches are made) in the opposite direction of the path of sewing. (See Backstitch on a Loose Hem)
• Reinforcement technique: Commonly used at the beginning and end of a machine stitch line, a sewing technique used to secure the end of a seam and prevent it from unraveling. It involves stitching back and forth over a small section of the stitch line to reinforce it and lock the stitches in place.

A compartment or chamber that holds and contains down insulation. Baffles are stitched (or otherwise constructed) to keep down evenly distributed throughout the item, preventing it from clumping or shifting. This design helps maintain consistent insulation and warmth, ensuring that it provides effective heat retention. Baffle construction can be sewn through, glued or taped, lofted or boxed, and 3D woven.

A set of tightly packed stitches used to strengthen the stitch line at points with high strain like belt loops and pocket corners.

A stitch with a long stitch length that can be easily removed and is used to hold fabric pieces together temporarily.

Bias is the 45-degree diagonal between the lengthwise and the crosswise grains. Even on a non-stretch woven fabric the bias direction will have some stretch.

• Noun - A narrow strip of material that is folded to encase or finish raw edges of fabric to prevent fraying and to ensure lasting durability.
• Verb - The act of encasing raw edges with fabric or stitching.

A stitching technique (often decorative) where straight stitches are looped around the fabric’s edge creating a chain-like pattern. (See Blanket Stitch a Patch)

A finished opening in fabric created to accommodate a button. Buttonholes are functional fasteners, allowing buttons to pass through and secure one side of the fabric to the other, typically for closures on shirts, jackets, or pants.

A stitch composed of a continuous series of looped stitches that form a chain.

A stitch formed by a specialized machine with two or more needles that is used to attach stretch fabrics, particularly on hems and flat seams, where (unlike with a serge/overlock) the stitch is not directly along an edge. A single coverstitch looks like parallel straight stitches on the front side and an interlocking zig-zag on the back side. A double coverstitch looks like interlocking zig-zag on both sides.

A technique used to repair holes, worn areas, or tears in fabric where yarns are added to close gaps and reinforce weakened or damaged fabric.

• Woven darning is a hand sewn darning technique that repairs the damaged area by interweaving vertical and horizontal yarns. (See Woven Darn a Hole in a Knit)
• Knit darning is a hand sewn darning technique that repairs the damaged area by re-knitting rows of interlocking loops of yarn.
• Machine darning is a machine sewn darning technique where stitch lines are applied over a damaged area (with or without a patch) to reconstitute and reinforce the weakened area.

A type of thread specifically designed for sewing denim or canvas fabric that is typically heavier and more robust than standard sewing threads. Patagonia’s denim thread is cotton with a polyester core made to withstand the stress and friction associated with denim construction and use.

Embroidery floss (sometimes called stranded cotton) is a loosely twisted, 6-strand thread, usually made of cotton but it can be made of silk, linen, and synthetic materials. Floss is used in embroidery due to its smooth texture, weight and durability.

The hole near one end of a sewing needle through which yarn is threaded while sewing.

A small, reinforced hole in fabric that can be created for functional, decorative, or repair purposes.

Fabric is categorized by the way it is produced and the resulting structure of the threads within the fabric. The two main types of fabric are woven and knit. (See Woven Fabric and Knit Fabric)

The face side of the fabric, often referred to as the right side or the front of the fabric, is the side of the fabric designed to be visible when the garment is worn. It is often darker in color and can be different in sheen or weave structure. Also see Wrong Side.

An orientation of fabric pieces during sewing that places the face sides (or right sides) toward one another so that the wrong sides (or back sides) are facing outward. Can also be referred to as “right sides together.”

Refers to the materials or substances that make up a thread or yarn, specifically its content and origin. Fiber content of an item can usually be found on the tag and is often broken down into percentages found in the fabric. Examples include cotton, wool, nylon, and polyester. The fiber content of a fabric is crucial information for repairs, as different fibers possess unique characteristics that impact the fabric’s appearance, texture, durability, and overall behavior during sewing.

The unraveled or unraveling edges of a woven fabric. Fraying is a natural tendency of raw edges of woven fabrics, especially those with an open or loose weave structure.

Grain gives orientation to a fabric and is determined by the direction that the yarns travel within a fabric. For a woven fabric, the lengthwise grain follows the warp yarns and the crosswise grain follows the weft yarns. For knit fabrics, the grain follows the row and columns of loops. The two grains always run perpendicular to each other. (See Warp and Weft)

(Also called hand, fabric hand, or fabric feel) Hand feel refers to sensory sensation of the fabric and what it feels like in your hands and against the skin while being worn.

• Noun - A finished edge on one or more pieces of fabric where the edge is folded and sewn down in order to encase the raw edge and prevent the fabric from unraveling.
• Verb - The process of creating a hem or altering an existing hem to change the length.

A stitching technique where diagonal stitches are made in a criss-cross pattern resembling the bones of a herring fish. (See Herringbone Stitch on a Split Seam)

A type of textile that is produced by knitting, where loops of yarn are interlocked in ascending rows.

A technique used to create a finished fabric corner by folding the seam allowances so they meet at a 45-degree angle.

See Serge.

A finished opening or slit in a garment that frequently consists of a fold of fabric that has fasteners attached to it such as buttons, snaps or Velcro. A placket allows for more access to areas like necklines, waistlines, cuffs and pockets.

Unintended gathering or wrinkling of fabric along a stitch line. Puckering can occur when hand sewn stitches are unevenly tensioned or when excessive force is applied, causing the fabric to bunch.

See Face.

A stitching technique where equally-sized straight stitches are spaced at regular intervals. Running stitch is the most basic hand sewing stitch and is often used for basting.

Refers to a technique where layers of fabric (or other materials) are placed one on top of one another, similar to the layers of a sandwich. This method is commonly used in sewing to join multiple layers of fabric together.

A general term for the line where two or more pieces of fabric are joined together by stitching. Seams can vary in type and style, serving both functional and decorative purposes.

The area between the fabric edge and the stitch line. Seam allowance provides stability and protects the stitch from pulling through a fraying fabric edge. A standard seam allowance is around 1/2” (~13mm) but can range from as small as 1/8” (~3mm) to as much as several inches.

Selvage is the finished edge of the fabric, usually running along the lengthwise grain, that is created during production to keep it from unraveling or fraying.

Also referred to as overlock, a serge is a stitch made by a specialized machine that simultaneously sews, trims, and finishes the raw edges of fabric. A serge stitch can be made of 2 - 5 threads and creates loops that interlock at the fabrics edge, containing the raw edge, and allowing for stretch. Variations of the term include serge (noun, the stitch), serger (noun, the sewing machine that creates a serge stitch), and serging (verb, the act of creating a serge stitch).

A raised loop or stem of thread that is created between a button and the fabric surface. The shank elevates the button slightly above the fabric, allowing space for the garment layers to pass underneath when the button is fastened.

The ability of a material or yarn to expand or elongate when pulled and then return to its original shape when released. A fabric’s ability to stretch can be due to its structure or its fiber content.

• 2-way stretch fabrics stretch in one direction (often along the crosswise grain from selvage to selvage) but not the other.
• 4-way stretch fabrics stretch in both directions, crosswise and lengthwise.

The end of the working thread that is furthest from the stitches. When stitching, the tail end of thread remains loose.

The aspect of tightness or slack applied to the thread during the sewing process.

A general term for a stitch line that can be seen from the outside of a garment. Topstitching can be decorative or functional and is often used on edges such as necklines, hems, and zippers, where it provides extra stability and gives a crisp edge.

• Verb - To cut away or remove excess fabric or loose stitching, often along an edge.
• Noun - A general term used to refer to the fabric, thread, and notions used in garment repairs. Subcategories include hard trims such as buttons and buckles, and soft trims such as elastic and Velcro.

The set of yarns within a woven fabric that travel lengthwise. During production, the warp yarns are wound on the loom and held stationary in tension while the weft yarns are woven between them. In the manufacture of cloth, warp and weft are the two basic components in weaving to transform yarn into textile fabrics.

The set of yarns within a woven fabric that travel crosswise from selvage to selvage. During production, the weft yarns are in motion, moving between the stationary warp yarns. In the manufacture of cloth, warp and weft are the two basic components in weaving to transform yarn into textile fabrics.

A stitching technique where the thread creates a spiral along the fabric edge. Whip stitch can have a variety of stitch lengths and densities and is used to bind edges, create seams, and attach patches. (See Whip Stitch a Tear and Whip Stitch a Patch)

The part of thread that is actively being used to create stitches during the sewing process. Most often, the working thread is the first few inches of thread emerging from a stitch line which is then manipulated by the sewer to create the next stitch.

A type of textile that is produced by weaving on a loom, with lengthwise yarns (warp) alternating over and under horizontal yarns (weft).

See Darn.

The wrong side of a fabric is designed to not be visible when the garment is worn. It is the back of the fabric and opposes the right side, also referred to as the face or front. The wrong side is often lighter in color and can be different in sheen or weave structure.

Yarn is a general term for a long continuous length of interlocked fibers. It is used in the creation of textiles through knitting, weaving, and crocheting. Thread is a type of yarn used in the process of sewing.