crwdns2915892:0crwdne2915892:0
If you've tried cleaning the lightning port to no avail, use this guide to replace the Lightning connector assembly in your iPhone 8 Plus, which can resolve many charging and connectivity issues.
crwdns2942213:0crwdne2942213:0
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws from the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?
Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?
I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.
what fix kit?
My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either
Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.
My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary
It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.
No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?
Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.
For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you
Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!
Will the phone still work if the sensor assembly on the back of the screen is damaged?
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
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If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
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Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.
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Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
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Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Bien, y a-t-il des boutiques spécialisées elle-même se charger de l’opération de changement de l’écran de l’iPhone 8 plus je suis un littéraire. Je renonce à le faire moi-même mais j’assume les frais le prix de l’écran. Merci de répondre dans un commentaire suivant Cordialement
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Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
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Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next three steps.
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Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
6/14/23 I did this repair but used a heat gun on low for 60 seconds. This allowed me to open the case as the instructions say, but in the end the Home button failed. I probably over heated it. I used this "go around" for a virtual Home button. I don't care about touch ID:
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Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.
Warning ! If you pull too hard (reheat the underside of the display again), you create an gap of air between the glass and the lcd display !
When you replace the display assembly you end up with gray stains on the display.
Result: you have to buy a new display (assembly).
Using just the single suction cup that is included in the battery replacement kit probably wouldn’t open the device. An iOpener and an iSlack should be the recommended method. However, you can get it open with just the single suction cup and iOpener, but does take a lot of time.
Get an iOpener and iSlack with the battery replacement kit.
I used a flat x-acto (#18) blade knife tool to gently pry back the screen enough to allow me to insert the pick near the bottom corner. I then worked the pick under the screen as mentioned in steps 5 & 6 below then. This worked really well for me.
I used the suction cup without heating the phone - the adhesive came away quite easily without applying any heat. Maybe due to age of phone (nearly 4 years old). Worth trying.
I can’t get the single suction cup to work. Hate being stuck on the simplest step!
My screen was very shattered, and was quite hard to get suction, as my tape was very low quality. However, after pulling it up a little bit, I was able to insert a regular razor blade into the very small gap and used that as a lever.
Oh my goodness! Don't do that again. You can definitely damage something in the phone if you use a sharp metal razor blade..
cytur -
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
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Insert an opening pick or other thin pry tool a few millimeters into the gap.
After multiple tries and using a very hot iOpener, it will not open.
In sheer frustration, I pulled out my trusty pocket knife and managed to lift the bottom of the screen slightly, but in the process, cracked the glass from the bottom to the home button. The case is open now.
this was by far the most difficult part. be diligent and follow the “firm and constant pressure” guide... the “gap” will be extremely “slight”. you will be able to slide a corner of the pry tool even if you cannot see the gap.
This needs a TON of strength and most likely a partner. Your strong partner will pull up the screen with the suction cup and you will put the pick into the small gap that appears.
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Slide your pick around the corner and up the left edge of the phone, moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.
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Stop near the top left corner of the display.
Do not go over the top otherwise you can crack the screen. Sadly happened to me :(
The instruction should be:
“Stop near BUT BEFORE REACHING the top left corner of the display”
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Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.
I had really good luck using a hairdryer on some of the more stubborn portions of adhesive.
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Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.
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Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
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Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.
Be very careful at this step. The glass at the top will break very easy when the display is lifted too much.
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Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.
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Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
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Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
Das “links” ist auf dem Foto rechts.
Das ist falsch. Wenn man auf das iPhone sieht, ist der Home Button unten. Auf dem Photo ist deutlich sichtbar, dass die linke Seite angehoben wird.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Remove four Phillips (JIS) screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:
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Two 1.3 mm screws
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One 1.4 mm screw
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One 2.7 mm screw
The Phillips screwdriver bit is the PH000. The measurement refers to the screw length.
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Remove the lower display cable bracket.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
When I reassembled the iPhone 8 Plus, I had to plug it into a Lightning cable to wake it up (just pushing power button wasn’t sufficient).
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Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the large lower display connector by prying it straight up from its socket.
I got hold of a iPhone 8 Plus with cracked screen that I am planning to fix.
Here is my problem:
When I tried to take out the screen from my phone, (step 15-18) I was curious about the new screen, so I tried to connect it. It was completely dead! Then I tried the old cracked one, and suddenly that was dead to! This is a phone that some fool has been inside earlier and changed battery, but I suspect he has done some more really stupid things. The Taptic Engine is living its own life and vibrating every time I slightly touch the home button. (I have a new Taptic Engine) The phone is also full of dust and small particles that does not belong there. One tri-point Y000 screw (step 18) is even missing! Now the biggest problem is that both screens are black! I know the phone is on, because I hear voice command speak when I turn on the power. The screen worked before I tried to change it? And one last thing: My new LCD screen came with new flex cables. Is it possible to switch over, so I can use the old ones?
Hi,
Is your problem solved?
Be careful of damaging MOSFETs by the LH side of the large lower display cable. After replacing the battery and turning the device on, the phone showed low charge and didn't have a charging symbol even after plugging into multiple cables and chargers. Turns out I had damaged the logic board attempting to disconnect the connector.
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Disconnect the second lower display cable connector, directly behind the one you disconnected in the previous step.
I used the other end of the spudger on this connector and it seemed to work a little better for me. I came in from underneath the top-right edge instead of the bottom right.
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Remove the two tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:
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One 1.0 mm screw
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One 1.2 mm screw
una vite da 1mm e due viti da 1.2 mm???
Ciao Matteo! Grazie per l’osservazione. Ho appena modificato il testo :) La traduzione è aperta a tutti. Hai quindi la possibilità di fare le tue suggestione direttamente nel testo e sei il benvenuto se vuoi usare di questa possibilità nel futuro. Grazie ancora per la vigilanza! Saluti, Claire
The tool kit does include a 1.0 or1.2mm screwdriver! How am I supposed to remove those screws?
Bought the screwdriver that supposedly fits these screws and it still doesn’t work.
My bracket looks different. Can’t get these screws out.
kit came with wrong bit. i received 2x P02 (penta tips) and no tri point y000.
There is no such thing as a trigger point y000 screwdriver. Why couldn't they use Philips like the rest of the screws.Nobody knows what these trips point y000 even look like. this is a scam to force you to buy a new phone.
y000 tri-point screw driver comes with the iFixit repair kit at minimal cost
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Remove the bracket covering the front panel sensor assembly connector.
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Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket.
What happens is this strip is torn and how does one fix it
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Remove the display assembly.
Should there be a step somewhere in here to point out when to remove the blue plastic from the new iFixit screen?
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Remove the two Y000 screws securing the rear camera connector cover bracket:
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One 1.4 mm screw
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One 1.4 mm (nonferrous) screw
the standoff screw underneath the left screw came loose together and was impossible to detach from the screw. In a later step (49) it was possible to remove it together with the antenna flex cable
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones$5.49
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Remove the two screws securing the rear camera module cover plate:
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One 1.8 mm Phillips screw
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One 2.7 mm (nonferrous) standoff screw
Yeah, the flathead screw driver is not really a good option for the standoff screwdriver bit. I managed to remove the standoff screws easily enough, but replacing them with the flathead was laborious.
Does the second screw (nonferrous standoff 2.7mm) actually exist? My phone has not had any repairs before but did not have this screw, and the previous step says there's a Y000 screw (for the bracket) in what appears to be exactly the same location as this step says the standoff screw is.
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Remove the cover plate from the rear camera module.
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Use an iFixit opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the two camera cable connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the rear-facing camera assembly from the top edge of the iPhone.
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Remove the rear-facing camera assembly.
Using the small supplied none-conductive baggy you get in your parts repair kit, it is generally advised to put your camera sensor in said bag to protect it from dust or other debris as this will not come off the sensor and will mean another repair where one could have been avoided.
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Remove three Phillips screws securing the upper left antenna component:
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Two 1.3 mm screws
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One 3.1 mm screw
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Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna component to the top edge of the rear case.
This screw is stuck and will not come out. I'm using the same head I used for the previous one which is the same size. I've even tried them all. I can get any other screw fine but this one will not come out. Just wasted my time undoing everything up to then and this stupid screw is stopping me from finishing.
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Tilt the antenna component up towards the top of the phone.
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Slide the screw boss down and out of its recess.
I accidently ripped the screw boss of the antenna component. Is that very bad? Do I need to replace the antenna component, or could I try to solder it back on, or does it even matter? Thanks in advance.
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Remove the top left antenna component.
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Remove the three screws securing the L-shaped bracket next to the Taptic Engine:
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One 1.3 mm Y000 screw
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One 2.6 mm Phillips screw
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One 3.5 mm Phillips screw
De Y000 schroef nam meteen ook de 2.4 mm standoff-schroef aan de achterzijde mee. Wat lastig om die uit elkaar te halen.
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Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhered portion of the antenna flex cable from the top surface of the speaker.
should i be worried if the piece with the two holes broke off
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable from the logic board.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tweezers$4.99
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Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the other end of the antenna flex cable from its socket, next to the Lightning Port.
I was unable to plug this back in when re-assembling. My home button doesn’t work anymore. The connector it was supposed to plug into seems to spin around.
I had a similar experience during this repair. My problem was that the nib on the ribbon that actually connects in to the socket came off the ribbon cable when I initially detached the cable. I didn’t realize this until after the repair, but I also had to replace the Wifi Diversity cable entirely. A tell-tale sign is that you don’t receive good cell reception.
Lucas -
I did not notice until reassembly, but the antenna socket pulled off the board. I have no micro-soldering tools. The friction of the connector was greater than the solder holding it in place.
The little connector in the first picture ripped the component off the circuit board when trying to pry it up so be careful. I’m guessing it’s like a previous poster said and the socket is stronger than the glue/material that holds the component to the PCB. This was on a new board during disassembly trying to locate a potential problem. Phone still workings with WiFi and cellular normally but the cellular signal is down about 1/3 on average wherever I am.
Calling this step tricky is an understatement 😅
Mine broke too and wifi still works fine
Does this have anything to donwith upper speaker connection?
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Remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.
This had a little adhesive on the metal band. Couldn’t just pluck it out as shown. What I did worked but what I should’ve done is run my blue puck up and down the length.
I followed these steps to this point and maybe applied force in the wrong spot or too much force and it appears that when I loosened the wifi diversity antenna from the socket below the Taptic Engine module, it came up with the socket detached from the logic board. Did I just really screw up my iPhones WiFi capability?
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones$5.49
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Remove the three screws securing the Taptic Engine:
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Two 1.5 mm Phillips screws
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One 2.4 mm standoff screw
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Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable.
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Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.
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Press firmly to eject the tray.
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Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.
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Use the point of a spudger to push the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.
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Remove two Phillips screws securing the bracket over the upper cable connector:
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One 3.1 mm screw
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One 1.3 mm screw
the right screw is 1,33mm, not 3,1mm.
Die rechte Schraube ( Orange) ist eine 1,3mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
Geändert! Danke für den Hinweis.
VauWeh -
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Remove the upper cable connector bracket.
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Remove the two 1.2 mm Phillips screws securing the grounding clip at the top left edge of the logic board.
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Remove the 1.2 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna flex cable to the top edge of the iPhone's rear case.
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Use a fingernail or the sharp end of an iFixit opening tool to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable connector from the logic board.
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Slide the flat edge of a spudger underneath the antenna flex cable to separate the adhesive holding it in place.
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Tilt the antenna flex cable up toward the top of the iPhone.
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Slide the screw boss down and out of its recess.
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Remove the antenna flex cable.
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Remove the three Phillips screws securing the lower speaker:
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Two 1.4 mm screws
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One 2.4 mm screw
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Prying from the top edge, use your fingernail or a spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper cable connector.
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Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil's flex cable.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Lightning connector assembly's flex cable from the logic board.
I did this repair and I followed it too a T, but when I reassembled, the flex cable for the Lightning connector assembly keeps popping out. Ive replaced it twice and followed your guide exactly. No mistakes. But when I go to clip it back in, it always does that….
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Remove the five screws securing the logic board:
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Two 1.8 mm Phillips screws
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One 2.3 mm standoff screw
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One 2.4 mm standoff screw
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One 2.7 mm standoff screw
My repair kit from iFixit included a standoff screwdriver bit. I do not recommend trying this without one.
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Lift the logic board from the bottom edges and slide it toward the bottom of the iPhone to remove it.
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Remove the two Phillips screws securing the barometric vent at the bottom left corner of the iPhone:
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One 3.2 mm screw
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One 1.8 mm screw
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Gently push the barometric vent in the direction of the battery to separate the adhesive securing the vent to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Remove the five Phillips screws securing the Lightning connector assembly to the rear case:
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Two 1.2 mm screws
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Two 2.4 mm screws
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One 2.5 mm screw
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Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the Lightning port to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Use the sharp edge of an iFixit Opening Tool to pry the two microphones free from the adhesive securing them to the lower edge of the iPhone.
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Apply an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case behind the Lightning connector flex cable. This will soften the adhesive securing the flex cable, making it easier to separate.
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Use the flat edge of a spudger to gently fold the battery flex cable connector away from the upper portion of the Lightning connector assembly.
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Slide an opening pick or thin pry tool underneath the top portion of the Lightning connector assembly flex cable.
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Gently slide the pick toward the outside edge of the iPhone (away from the battery).
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Continue separating the upper portion of the Lightning connector flex cable, being careful not to damage any other components along the way.
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Continue separating the Lightning connector assembly's flex cable until you pass the lower edge of the battery.
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Carefully slide your pick from the corner of the battery to the corner of the iPhone to separate the portion of the flex cable adhered to the outer frame.
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Slide your pick across the width of the iPhone to separate all the remaining areas of the Lightning connector assembly from the rear case.
What purpose do the ribboned screw brackets or bosses have
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Remove the Lightning connector assembly.
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Use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case.
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Thoroughly clean any remaining residue from the surface with isopropyl alcohol (90% concentration or greater) and a lint-free cloth. Wipe in one direction only, not back and forth.
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Dopo la sostituzione non funziona più il microfono, ma se non ho capito male i microfoni sono integrati nel gruppo connettore di ricarica giusto? Questo significa che è difettoso? Non mi pare sia possibile montarli male (dato che appunto in effetti non sono da montare). Potrebbe essere qualche impostazione nel sistema operativo per abilitare i nuovi microfoni?
Correctly positions the new Lightning connector assembly is very important! I found that event the slightest misalignment will prevent you from easily reconnecting the flex cable to the logic board. I had to remove the logic board and peel back some of the new adhesive on my replacement Lightning connector a few times in order to get the proper alignment. I found it useful to plug in the flex cable prior to mounting the logic board so that you have at some leeway when lining up the connectors.
Make sure to save the rubber gasket for the lightning connector as my kit did not come with a replacement. The kit also included replacement screens for the microphones but no instructions or labelled parts so you’ll have to use your best guess as to how to install them. Make sure to take pictures of the old screens before you pull them out and use those pics as reference.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
crwdns2935221:0crwdne2935221:0
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40 minutes seems crazy fast for this repair. If anyone can do this entire repair from beginning to end utilizing these steps in 40 minutes… they should spend a day or two practicing the Rubik’s cube and go smash the world record.
The guide helped me accomplish the repair. So, for that, thank you very much.
Very well done and easy to follow. Great piece of work and I appreciate the time spent putting it all together.
Have repaired 2 other iPhones, 6 and 6S, using the guides found here. When confronted with the iPhone 8 plus repair this is the site I came to.
Again, very well done indeed.
Kudos
Where dose one find a new gasket for the lighting cable?
You will not find a more comprehensive or thorough or accurate guide to dismantling and replacing the charging port on an iPhone 8 Plus than this. Awesome guide, thanks for your attention to detail and thoroughness! Bravo!
Thank you very much for the very detailed repair instructions. My microphone wasn’t working properly and I was able to get it fixed for just $12! (got the replacement from eBay)
Dopo la sostituzione non funziona più il microfono, ma se non ho capito male i microfoni sono integrati nel gruppo connettore di ricarica giusto? Questo significa che è difettoso? Non mi pare sia possibile montarli male (dato che appunto in effetti non sono da montare). Potrebbe essere qualche impostazione nel sistema operativo per abilitare i nuovi microfoni?
Mi correggo, ho problemi solo durante le chiamate, se uso l’app note vocali o whatsapp o faccio video con entrambe le fotocamere non ho problemi
Why is removing the camera and antenna necessary for replacing the lightning port?
nvrm i see why
Buon pomeriggio, devo fare i complimenti al sito per come e dettagliato ogni guida e riparazione. adesso ho finito di riparare un iphone 8 plus e va una bomba
Wish I had been told I would need a standoff screwdriver before I was halfway into taking the thing apart…
This was not a quick job. It took me far longer than expected because the sound did not work the first time that I re-assembled it. I took the phone back apart far enough to remove the speaker and clean the contacts. On re-assembly, it would not boot cleanly. It continuously rebooted until I had to restore to factory settings and reload from save.
Make sure you have a current save _before_ you do this repair.
I want to let everyone know that it is absolutely unnecessary to remove the entire logic board when doing this repair. You only need to remove the SIM holder and the the 2 (or 3 on XR) logic board screws (2 saddle screws and 1 Phillips on XR, 2 saddles on 7/8 series) that hold the logic board down. Once those are removed, you can gently lift the lower end of the logic board up enough to slide the portion of the dock flex that is under the logic board out from under the logic board. A few things to keep in mind when removing the existing port are that once all screws and brackets and such are taken off, you need to start the pulling up and removal of the old charging port flex starting from the very bottom first, I start with the with the 2 microphones and then the lightning port itself. As you free the existing port from the bottom upwards, when you peel up the flex where it is held down with adhesive nearing the logic board, it will then simply slide out from under the logic board.
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Ran out of characters!..When you go to install the new port, you must START the process by sliding the new flex cable back up underneath the logic board first (you may need to hold the battery flex cable out of the way a bit and pre bend the new ports flex cable at the connector so that it will slide up easily) and then attach the new flex cable to the connector on the logic board FIRST before you do any other screw or adhesive installations. This way you don't end up struggling to try to get the connector to re-connect to the logic board at the end. If you don't do it this way and you start re-installing the new port from the bottom without pre-connecting it to the logic board, any slight misalignment may cause the connector to not line up properly when you go to connect it to the logic board. I feel on any iPhone component removal/replacement, the less extra parts and connectors you have to touch, pry on, disconnect and/or remove and then reconnect, the better. Good luck all! - Chad from GURUmicro.
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This was a very helpful guide and the photos were really well done. A few pointers for newbies to iPhone repair like myself.
1) The base install (no mesh screen replacements near the microphones) is about 3 hours. Another 45 minutes or so for the mesh screens as there were no instructions.
2) There were no instructions on how to start the phone back up so here is what happened to me. After plugging everything back in (but the phone screen still physically separated from the phone body) I could not start the phone from the battery despite it having about a 30% charge. I ended up taking the phone apart 2 times checking all the connections but couldn’t find a faulty one. In this process I ended up snapping a part related to the antenna off of the PCB (Step 36, see comment above). What ended up working was plugging the phone into a fast charger and waiting about 5 minutes. I wasn’t able to start it after 1 minute and was worried, but after 5 minutes it booted up normally and everything is fine.
Does this remove any functionality with the phone? I know apple is very difficult with the “right to repair”. At least with replacing the home button and battery, fingerprint and battery health functionality is removed. Does something similar happen with this?
The microphone of my Iphone8 plus isn't working and the speaker isn't sounding nice, what should I do?....
As someone with very little to no experience repairing smartphones, I will say that 40min-2hrs is very generous. It took me almost 9 hours to replace both the lightning cable adapter and the battery at the same time, and most of that was just working through the adhesives of both the display and the battery. The second-most time-consuming part was just keeping each screw labeled and organized - I used some sticky tabs to keep the screws in the cardboard trays that the replacement parts came in. Aside from that, the repair process wasn't bad at all. I made some mistakes: I accidentally scraped off some of the black film (graphite?) that was on the logic board, and I placed the new adapter just slightly too far to the right, which made plugging it into the logic board later a bit difficult. If I had to do it again, I would definitely prefer to try the Anti-Clamp and the iOpener - I had neither for this repair, and I would bet having both would have made it much easier. It'd be nice if they came with the tools.
what do I do about super stripped screws?
Ean Palacios - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
I’m sorry, your comment slipped past my radar earlier. For future fixers that might see this and ask the same question, you can check out our stripped screw guide for some detailed advice.
Adam O'Camb -
Do you need a toolkit like the essential toolkit
Adam Palmer - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
Hi Adam. Having a tool kit with all of the listed parts above is best. The screw heads are very small and each set of screws needs a very specific type of driver to remove them without stripping any of them.
Kyle Luksa -