For an easier repair, use our fix kit and follow this shorter guide to replace your iPhone’s entire screen.

For more advanced fixers, this guide will help you replace only the iPhone 7 Plus LCD and digitizer assembly (a.k.a. the bare “front panel”). This requires you to transfer several components from your original screen to the new one before installing it—including the front-facing camera, earpiece speaker, LCD shield plate, and home/Touch ID sensor assembly.

For all screen/display repairs, it's important to carefully transfer the original home/Touch ID sensor onto the new display in order for it to function. The solid state home button is paired to its original logic board by Apple, so replacing it will render it unusable.

  1. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Pentalobe Screws: step 1, image 1 of 1
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.

    pargoff - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.

    Ben Meinhart - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!

    Vanessa Pinter - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?

    adam - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???

    lkollar - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I just found the instructions on how to install the seals AFTER I was completed and had to figure it out. Maybe, just maybe you should link this somewhere on the guild instead of buried in a comment. Just a thought.

    Charles Meitin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Step 1 is: Read through all the steps and comments or the method prior to starting on this Step 1. There's a lot of much needed information and experience that you can learn from which will reduce the chance of struggling, wasting time or even breaking your device.

    My favourites are:

    Use a hot water bottle.

    Label all screws you remove with their size and location on a piece of paper with double sided sticky tape.

    Test the lightning assembly at step 13

    There is a Standoff driver bit in the box, don't use a screwdriver.


    Neil Eriksen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  2. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Taping Over The Display: step 2, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Taping Over The Display: step 2, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Taping Over The Display: step 2, image 3 of 3
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

    • If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

    Tape doesn’t hold. suction cup doesn’t work. Tape folded over doesn’t work as a handle. I’ve used 3m’ s Gorilla duct tape. The glass is so shattered I cant get a point started to remove the glass. Phone has been in an otter box for years. dropped it and shattered glass while replacing case. Now what?

    Martin Speedy - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    When all else fails, you can superglue your suction cup (or tape) to the display, wait for it to cure, and pull.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had issues getting the suction cup to stick on my cracked screen, so I tried using scotch tape (only tape I had around), but it didn’t work. This best thing I did was to forcefully pry the screen off (I wasn’t worried about damages because it’s already cracked) with the spudger. I think its best to find something stickier (like Duct Tape) and used that to lift up the screen.

    Definitely surprised how sticky the adhesive was.

    Jeffrey Robinos - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    When using packing tape: the suction won’t hold well with the overlapping pieces, so add a square of tape where you want to put the suction cup, so it will provide an unbroken surface for the seal.

    Christa - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It’s amazing how a heat gun or hair dryer makes life easier to soften up the adhesive. Then use a thin iSesame opening tool to get in under the screen (start @ 90 degrees/vertical either side of the home button & slowly go horizontal) the need to use suction cups. Run the opening tool along the front and down both sides to cut the adhesive before trying to lift the screen.

    Cheers Wayne

    Wayne Lyell - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I didn’t have a hair dryer so I (gingerly) used an iron over some wet coffee filters (I mean , it is waterproof) . Then, quickly dried i off with paper towels, used gorilla tape and my fixit metal splunger . worked like a charm .

    MajorCouillon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    What about baby cracks? skip to step 3 or not…

    Andruw Holland - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    As others have mentioned, suction cup and tape doesn’t work. I used the blade of a box cutter (watch fingers) and inserted just below and right of home button. Then moved spudger along the crack to tear adhesive/seal. Easy peasy.

    Stephen Smith - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  3. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Opening Procedure: step 3, image 1 of 1
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    How long should I use a hairdryer for?

    Warren Binder - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I used it until it was hot to the touch but not too hot where you burn yourself.

    gczarny -

    Hey, I just took apart my first iPhone 7 plus today, and it was easier for me to use guitar picks and a magic glass tool. I did tear the home flex on the screen—now I know to be more careful of that on disassembly—-~Katrina of iPad Rehab Microsoldering

    jessabethany - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    First I tried to remove the screen with the hot iOpener, but it doesn’t worked, the day after I putted the Iphone in the sun for a while and then used the hot iOpener, then the screen was easy to remove :-)

    Marc Boon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Get a T-shirt add heat to a lil corner of it, with either a hair straighter or an Iron , touch the T-shirt if it’s seems hot but doesn’t burn u hold that lil hot piece of T-shirt against the edge ur trying to pry open , if it’s still not opening add a I’ll more heat,

    www.tertlegerl - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I don’t think the iOpener was effective at softening the adhesive. Using a suction cup and the spudger is good enough.

    Mac - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I took a hot water bottle and layed it on the display of the iPhone for a minute, because I did not have an iOpener. That worked for me perfect.

    Michael Maier - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  4. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 4, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 4, image 2 of 2
    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    Hi! My suction cup doesn’t work. It won’t strongly suck on my screen. Does anyone have any advice?

    kaiminliu119 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Heat it up just a little with a hair dryer make sure it’s flat , let it coo a bit now try it??

    robertread - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The suction cup you provide sucks. In that it doesn’t hold. Luckily I had a set of heavy duty suction cups from when I worked on my iMac.

    Charles Meitin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  5. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 5, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 5, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 5, image 3 of 3
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

    • While pulling up on the suction cup, twist the spudger to widen the opening between the screen and rear case.

    Be very careful not to pull up with too much force. My screen just shattered while I was pulling up with my suction cup. (There were no previous cracks or chips or anything).

    Benjamin Pounds - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I’m stuck on this part. I’ve heated the bottom up and attached the suction cup right above the home button, but I can’t pull it apart. I feel like I’m going to break the glass display. Tips?

    whtafrcn420 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Someone mentioned above, using strong tape helps .

    MajorCouillon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    You won’t be able to put the spudger into the gap unless the phone is in a vertical position (speaker side up) in your hands.

    Mac - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    read steps 4-9 before attempting. I cracked my glass because I didn’t

    David Lei - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My first 7 Plus opening. I pulled up the screen just enough to insert a thin guitar pick at the bottom of the phone to break the adhesive. I didn’t even create a gap as such. I then ran the pick along the sides to continue to detach the adhesive, just like iFixIt show in Step 10 for the top of the phone.

    My screen already had a crack at the bottom, near the home button, so I was nervous about pulling too hard on the screen. It had a screen protector fitted so maybe that helped keep it all together.

    iFixIt’s use of a spudger at the bottom of the phone looked hazardous to me, especially with my damaged screen.

    Big Ed - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This must be a joke. I’ve been trying for days to pull open the iphone like this. Doesn’t work. I bent the ring on the suction cup trying to pull it off, but nothing happens, no gap, not remote possibility of a pick or spudger getting in there.

    James Osborne - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Ended up using a blowdryer and a razor blade. Bottom got scratched up, but there was no way that fat plastic spudger was going to fit. I got the razor under the corner, from there worked to middle and twisted with repeatedly adding heat. Lots of heat.

    James Osborne - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  6. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 6, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 6, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 6, image 3 of 3
    • Insert the flat end of the spudger between the front panel and the rear case at the lower left edge of the iPhone.

    • Slide the spudger up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

  7. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 7, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the spudger from the left side of the phone and insert the flat end into the bottom right corner.

    • Slide the spudger up the right edge of the phone to the top corner, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

  8. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 8, image 2 of 2
    • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

    • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are delicate ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

    The ribbon cable part should be said earlier instead of halfway through

    I just broke one because of it

    BrenX1 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  9. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 9, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 9, image 2 of 2
    • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  10. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 10, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 10, image 2 of 2
    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

  11. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 11, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 11, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 11, image 3 of 3
    • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    So if I broke the cable that connects the display to the logic board. What replacement part would I need to order now?

    Robert Danson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Probably the screen

    Christian Sirolli -

  12. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Battery Disconnection: step 12, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.6 mm screw

    Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.

    u204863 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    You could stick the suction cup back on, near the right side of the phone, with the blue hook oriented in such a way that it becomes a stand for the screen. That way it won’t open much more than 90 degrees, and leaves both your hands free.

    Mark -

    The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?

    shannon caldwell - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    At first I think I was being too careful and was getting no where. I got better results by pressing down on the screwdriver with more pressure while turning and those little screws came right out.

    LadyTech - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?

    Katherine Monday - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    @katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    my screwdriver will only remove the 2.6mm screw and not the others, what shall i do?

    AubreyG1 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!

    Trey Smith - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    STOP! Before you remove Any screws, be sure to create several bins to hold the various sizes in… or mark them like Trey suggested. I failed to pay attention because I thought they were all the same… they are not. It is very hard to figure out the sizes if you remove them all and store them in a single location.

    John Grant - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    i had a piece of paper with the steps numbered that involved screws. I had double sided tape on the paper and the number of screws and thier position marked. This was so helpful in removing and then finding and installing the tiniest screws on earth. And i have TINY hands. I can’t imagine someone with large paws being able to accomplish any of this.

    Tina Matthews - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  13. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 13, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 13, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the lower display cable bracket.

    I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    chris west - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.

    Scott Havard - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol

    Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.

    jeffrey griffith - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I had to use a fingernail to dislodge the bracket. As Jeffrey said, it was apparently stuck to the connector.

    lkollar - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  14. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 14, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 14, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 14, image 3 of 3
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

    You could cover the battery socket with a small piece of tape to make sure that it doesn’t accidentally re-connect. It’s not likely to, but I liked the peace of mind.

    Mark - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.

    Sarr Sheffer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.

    MajorCouillon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.

    Evan O - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  15. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Display Assembly: step 15, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Display Assembly: step 15, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Display Assembly: step 15, image 3 of 3
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

    The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

    Talon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?

    Alextay - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….

    Darius Varanavičius -

    what are my options if the display connector broke? can it be replaced or do I need to get a whole new screen?

    matomach - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.

    Grant Crawford - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol

    Joshua Driscoll - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…

    ibisiki -

    Bent the pins on the connector out of place, worked them very carefully back with fine nose tweezers. This was by far the crux of the repair for me.

    nicO Gurney - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  16. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 16, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 16, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 16, image 3 of 3
    • Remove the three tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • Two 1.0 mm screws

    • Remove the bracket.

    Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

    chris west - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I know your comment was posted a long time ago but just in case someone else has the same problem, the only difference in the screws are the lengths. The ends are the same.

    mcr4u2 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?

    assweeetasyou - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!

    Wayne Lyell -

    Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +

    Jeremiah Kjensmo - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I called the y tip a triangle tip until I read these comments. Thanks for the correction

    Kayla Tobin -

    Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?

    alicenine84 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.

    Benji - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.

    Stephen Patterson -

    I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?

    I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.

    My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.

    Would appreciate any advice!

    jrosegoep - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Dear IFixit: First, I want You to know I love your repair guides. I consider You to be the absolute best repair manuals available. But, hopefully as your friend I am going to point out once the bracked is removed a 2.0 mm Standoff screw should appear. It’s 1 of 2 screws holding the Antena Flex Cable in place. Rob

    Robert Schmidt - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  17. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 17, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 17, image 2 of 2
    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

    Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!

    Kevin Reilly - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thanks Kevin. I would be stuck if I hadn't read your comment!?! Great input.

    Lukas Watts -

    That's save my life!thanks god!

    neg -

    I also made this mistake! Thank goodness it didn’t break anything.

    That Guy - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  18. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 18, image 1 of 1

    When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.

    Benji - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thank you for including a link to the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide, this was very helpful!

    Robert O'Brien - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    is it really necessary to remove the display? the screen connectors are delicate and I fear re-assembly errors. I changed the battery and did not remove any screen connectors. no problems.

    jacobra - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Due to the fact that THIS is the repair guide for replacing the DISPLAY it IS necessary to remove the display connectors. There is another guide for changing the battery -- you might want to follow that one.

    Hannes -

  19. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Earpiece Speaker: step 19, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the five Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker bracket:

    • Two 1.8 mm screws

    • One 2.3 mm screw

    • One 2.4 mm screw

    • One 2.8 mm screw

  20. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 20, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the earpiece speaker bracket.

  21. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 21, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 21, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 21, image 3 of 3
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the front-facing camera from its housing.

    • Gently bend the camera ribbon cable to the side to clear the way to the earpiece speaker underneath.

    How is this bit waterproofed on re-assembly?

    Cool_Breeze - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The screen/display that I got, already included a camera/speaker. So I didn’t have to remove it.

    I finished my repair and then started to use the phone again. I noticed Facetime was not working anymore (cameras, speakers and microphone was OK). I tried a few solutions I found on the Internet but nothing seemed to work. I open the phone back up and replaced the pre-installed camera with the old one I had on the broken screen/display. Closed the phone again and now Facetime works without any issues. I just wanted to pass that along.

    Federico Montes - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  22. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 22, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the earpiece speaker.

    • Don't touch the four spring contacts with your fingers—your skin oils may cause a malfunction. If accidentally touched, clean the contacts gently with isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher).

    If you’re looking to continue on and replace the speaker mesh, take a look at the camera/cable replacement guide.

    iPhone 7 Plus Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement

    tgruetzm - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I almost forgot to clean the spring contacts, thanks for reminding me.

    Maganafixes - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  23. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Front Camera and Sensor Cable: step 23, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Front Camera and Sensor Cable: step 23, image 2 of 2
    • Gently fold the camera and attached ribbon cable toward the bottom of the iPhone to allow access to the components underneath.

  24. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 24, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 24, image 2 of 2
    • The sensors on this step are fragile. To increase your chances of removing them without damage, use your iOpener or hair dryer to apply heat to the upper portion of the display before you proceed. Alternatively, add a drop or two of isopropyl alcohol and let it penetrate under the sensors before you pry them up.

    • Slide a spudger under the ambient light sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.

  25. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 25, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 25, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 25, image 3 of 3
    • Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the proximity sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.

  26. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 26, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 26, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 26, image 3 of 3
    • Insert the sharp edge of an iFixit opening tool underneath the camera assembly's flex cable, on the opposite side from the front-facing camera.

    • If necessary, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the top portion of the display and soften the adhesive securing the flex cable.

    • Pry up to separate the edge of the flex cable from the back of the display.

    prying this up is sometimes difficult. I always keep a new one on hand incase. they are not expensive. if you separate the black strip, prox sensor will not work.

    Lee Attaway - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    what if the black tape and the flex got seperated, is there a solution to get the earspeaker work gain? coz i tried putting the adhesive tape again behind the flex but still no luck.. what can i do?

    Mac -

    i think this just happened to me…

    william seiji marini - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    With this repair, you can just re-apply light heat to the front glass before removing this flex cable. The heat will transfer to the adhesive and will allow you to remove this flex cable very easily. Ensure that you have followed the previous steps so that you do not damage the ambient light filter and the proximity sensor. Always make sure that you pull very gently here as this is one of the most common damages caused to an iPhone 7 series. If the black strip sticks to the frame during removal, just make sure to put it back in it’s right place and you should have no issue; assuming you didn’t damage the flex cable. Always wear gloves. - TM

    Tyler Massey - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  27. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 27, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 27, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 27, image 3 of 3
    • Insert the point of a spudger underneath the same portion of the flex cable that you separated in the previous step.

    • Continue separating the remainder of the flex cable, pushing the spudger toward the row of circular gold earpiece speaker contacts.

  28. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 28, image 1 of 1
    • Continue using your spudger to carefully separate the last of the flex cable from the back of the display.

  29. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 29, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 29, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 29, image 3 of 3
    • Remove the front camera and sensor cable assembly.

    • A piece of black double-sided insulating tape lies between the display and three rows of copper contacts on the back of the camera/sensor cable. It may remain stuck to the display, or it may come off with the cable.

    • When reassembling, verify the tape is in place, or else cover the contacts on the back of the cable with an appropriate tape, such as Kapton tape.

    Is there instruction on how to bend the cable?

    Steven Martinez - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    You really need that tape, If still no sound after placing the tape in place, then you might have damaged the flex cable. Worthy to mention, that some replacement screens come without the ambient light filter (white film seem on the screen) and without the plastic brackets for the camera and proximity sensor, which in those cases, you would have to transfer those parts to the new screen. Also in some screens, the holes for the proximity sensor are not properly done and you might end up with a non-working proximity sensor. In those cases, just remove the pain with the spugger where the proximity sensor locates (removes the black paint) and then add some black permanent marker over it to make it black. That way, it will look pristine form the outside but just thin enough for the proximity sensor to work.

    H. Alves - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I had issues regarding sound after reassembling the iPhone. I initially used kapton tape. I could hear the caller but they could hear me. I checked every avenue I thought of, I recorded myself speaking which was fine so there was nothing wrong with the mic. I ended up heating the black insulator and transferring it and reseating the earpiece and flex assembly. After a couple attempts the mic was restored to normal operation.

    Paul Wilson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    yeah the mic and the earpiece not working , what is the solution for this problem ?

    يوسف الريمي - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Do not pull on the cable an be gentle with the heat. There is a potential that the cable, which is soldered together on this part.

    I had an issue with a costumers flex cable an the ear speaker stopped working bit the cable looked okay and I did not pull on it. So I used an soldering iron with a small tip, put some flux tape where the doubled-sided tape sits on the pads and soldered the cable back together at about 390 degrees celsius. It now works perfectly again.

    Raphael - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    After replacing screen, front camera doesn’t work. Replaced camera cable cable with a new cable; still no front camera. Rear camera works fine. Also, have a software “Home” button showing up. Finger Touch ID works and works as the Home button should as far as I can tell, How do I get rid of it?

    Kevin Reilly - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    So i had the same problem that the erapiece only is not working after replacement..

    my soulotion was to reassmble all the flat out the there is a black double sided tape that need to put exactly on the back of the golden points behind the flat.

    once the tape back on those golden tips it should work properly

    aviel3019 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Another thing to be careful of is the area where the black tape sits is actually two pieces of cable that are glued together and are connected by about 15 tiny contacts.

    I must have heated the cable too much and ended up separating these two layers when prying… I put them back together but it must have not been lined up correctly as the proximity sensor and earpiece speaker did not work (the parts on the layer that came off), whereas the front camera did as that is on the same layer as the camera and was therefore intact.

    I may attempt to re align the connectors again but I feel as though a replacement flex assembly may be the more appropriate solution!

    I admit that this is my fault for overheating the component and not taking enough care, but what a weird design! Why couldn’t it have been one whole cable?

    Ed Beckett - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Did the replacement flex fix this issue?

    Danielle Lewis -

    is it okay to use electric tape in that case to cover the copper pieces? i installed everthing and the front camera works and the speaker works just when i make a call it turns off.. any recommendations?

    3dvapeandsmoke - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    why wouldnt it come with the tape on already? Im about to put electric tape because i dont have anything else.

    Anthony Fieno - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0



    bakkas-3.30 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    After replacing iPhone 7+ screen I can’t call out or answer calls everything else works cleaned contacts with alcohol wipes put it back together and same thing the time is right I even updated the os since installing the new screen but phone reboots every time a call comes in or I dial out any suggestions

    wachteldane69 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  30. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Home/Touch ID Sensor: step 30, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor:

    • One 1.1 mm screw

    • Three 1.3 mm screws

    • During reassembly, be careful not to overtighten these screws, or your home button may not work.

    Why is the screw over top of the home button so difficult to get out… has anyone else experienced this..? This is twice now I've struggled to get that screw

    Brandon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The screw to the left holding the heatshield is never mentioned in this guide

    Beerbo - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    No reason to touch that screw unless you’re removing the shield—in which case, this step instructs you to remove it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The link that was mentioned takes you to the heat shield for iphone 7 plus. There’s a slight difference in the two models.

    Jason Glenn -

    To clarify: the regular/smaller iPhone 7 has no screw on the far left there. The 7 Plus does, but there’s no need to touch it unless you’re removing the large metal shield covering the back of the display. The procedure in the guide is correct.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    So I stripped the screw furthest to the left, how can i possibly remove it now? Can I just buy a new LCD shield and home bracket button and screw and will that work just fine on the new screen replacement? this stripped screw of mine is not coming out

    Bryan Ferrer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    That should work, as long as you can still get the home button/sensor out without damage. For removing a stripped screw this size, I’d probably try supergluing it to the driver—or else just drill the top of the screw off and then remove the bracket, leaving the screw shaft embedded in the old display. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I used the same driver for all of these screws. Had to apply a lot of pressure before trying to unscrew it and it was fine.

    jessica harlow - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This is wrong, the size you need is Y00 for the 1.1mm screws and Y000 for the 1.3mm one.

    Robert Clark - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The heads on those screws are identical. I’ve never had any trouble using a Y000 for all of them. Use whatever works for you I guess.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I’ve managed to strip the screw on the right hand side - not the far right, just right of the home button. Any ideas on how to get it out without glue (I don’t have any)

    Christie Ellen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My screwdriver is too big to get out the screws

    Coolinee Kerman - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My eyesight isn’t what it used to be. That said, the replacement screen that arrived already had screws in the two outside positions. It took me a minute to figure this out when I was trying to install the home button. I couldn’t figure out why the screws weren’t going in. I thought the holes were filled or something… Nope. screws. Took them out and used them.. all good.

    Critter - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My 7 had quite a bit of loctite holding these bad boys on. I stripped the one to the right of the home button and after using many “sentence enhancers” I was able to remove it using good tweezers and quite a bit of hand strength. I think that heating up the screws here is not an option because the cables lie underneath the plate and would probably get damaged from the amount of heat needed to loosen the loctite. Be patient here, and maybe have spare Y000 drivers because you may damage your driver getting these screws out.

    P Park - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If your having trouble. I recommend you guys to buy the Y00o driver at amazon. It look golden. It works very will .

    Jonathan curz - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Read instead of: “Remove the four Y000 screws”. “Remove the four Philips 00 screws”. Thats the case what occurs to me.

    Henk - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hi all, I’m really hoping someone will be able to give me a hand here, so the 1.1mm screw on top of the home button is stripped, and absolutely refuses to get out. I have tried the superglue technique mentioned and am worried it may have even glued the screw to the bracket. The only solution I can think of is to bend the home button bracket on either side of the middle screw, and use the bracket itself to remove the screw from the home button. I have ordered a new home button bracket either way, does anybody have any other ideas? Should I even attempt what I am proposing?

    Thanks in Advance.

    llamalulu42 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This worked for me take a Stanley blade and saw a grove across the screw with the edge ofcourse then heat the home button with hair dryer for a couple of minutes take the blade and press it into the groove you scored and turn it

    Paul -

    Does the ground strap go over or under bracket?

    Marcos Polos - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    over the bracket

    David Proudman -

    my home button does not work anymore! do you know why?

    josé - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I magically used an X-acto knife tip to lift the edges of the home button screw to loosen it, and then turned it slightly with the X-acto blade tip in the screw slot to get it started, then the 000 screwdriver could finish it.

    Jim Pflasterer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I can’t stress how important it is to not overtighten the one on the button. I undertightened the center one at first in fear, and then tightened it more when I realized the button was loose. It ended up ruining the home button :(

    Brendon Parker - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I was completely unable to get the screw directly over the homebutton off. I definitely stripped it some. Here’s some tips!

    1. If you are trying to unscrew and it skips instead of locking in—STOP. Apply more pressure, and then try again. Keep doing this until it comes out. If you continue turning without doing anything, you’ll strip the head of the screw and end up in a way worse situation.

    2. If your screw is stripped, first try putting a rubber band between the screwdriver and the screw to fill the gap. Duct tape has worked for many people as well.

    3. If you can’t get the screw directly above the home button off of the home button, I found this video that shows how to remove the home button without unscrewing the screw!! Bend the protective plate up 90° on both sides of the home button so the bent plate now fits through the home button hole. Then you can continue to

    the next steps and remove the home button with the plate still attached to it.

    silas - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Don’t know if I did something wrong, but the home button no longer works. I’ll see if I can get someone to repair it.

    David Proudman - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Found a software workaround, go to General > Accessibility > Assistive Touch. Now you don’t need the home button to work to use the phone

    David Proudman -

    I enabled assistive touch before making a go on this part. Screws are very small, easy to strip, and difficult to find if they go flying when you;re just trying to seat them properly.

    jack jones - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    VERY SMART!! I would not have thought of doing that. Depending on what my local repair guy charges I may be doing this myself, but in all honestly if the home button does not work on the new screen I'm getting another phone

    FallenAnjel -

    I’ve never been so stressed at trying to assemble something, O_O I should really get some glasses. I just reassembled all the screws, tried to not screw too tight, but how does one know? Maybe they could include “only twist 3 times, or 2…and maybe provide an ocular. Those screws are very very very tiny, and yes - be careful, because if you attach the right screw first, the left one can be catapulted if not secured and just “set” waiting to screw in. Thankful for the magnetism, but also had to find myself holding the screw in place while securing or else it would just attach to the screwdriver and come out. I'm TOTALLY looking forward to turning this ON after all assembled based on all the disheartened comments…..oy. Here. We. Go.

    Nicole Crome - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    There’s a small square rubber piece that has a screw hole in it. does anyone know if it goes over the home button? I missed it when I took it apart, but then , there it is on my table.

    MajorCouillon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It slips over one of the posts that the pentalobe screws in step 1 go through. Like a mitten over a hand. It’s incredibly hard to see where the slit is in that tiny rubber piece though.

    Jared Cook -

    What do you do if you overtighten the screws? I assume that is why my home button won't click

    Andrew Targett - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    How can you tell if you’ve over-tightened the screws or if the home button isn’t working for some other reason (other physical damage, shorted out, etc.)?

    Jared Cook - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Die Schraube auf dem Home-Button ist wohl von Apple gewollt schwer zu entfernen. Man sollte sie daher zuerst herausdrehen; denn, ist die Unterlage unterm iPhone nicht hart genug und man drückt jetzt mit Kraft über den Schraubendreher auf die Schraube, wird der Home-Button hinausgedrückt, dabei verbiegt sich die Halterung und besonders schlimm, das eine untere Flachbandkabel reißt ab und der Home-Button ist unbrauchbar.

    Hartmut Kruse - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    So from those that do many repairs what do you think is the percentage of repairs in which the home button doesn't work after moving it to a new screen? 10%? 30%? 70%?

    FallenAnjel - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  31. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 31, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the bracket that secures the home/Touch ID sensor.

  32. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 32, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 32, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 32, image 3 of 3

    Well, I just damaged the home button connector in step 31. It is completely off the cable. What now? Can I buy this home button?

    LadyTech - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I think you can not do it because your phone is not identify for new cable.

    Ali Alsaed - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Best thing to do here is to NOT pry up on the connector, but to insert the pry tool on the left side until the connector is dislodged.

    Oscar Moreno - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Good tip. Worked perfectly. Thx.

    Klaus M -

    That worked perfectly, thank you!

    Emily Kretschmer -

    use one pry tool to hold down, another to pull up.

    Christa - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Anyone having difficulty reconnecting the two ? I’ve been trying for ages with no luck.

    Patrick McKenna - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Same problem here - can reconnect them once the new LCD is being installed. Not sure what the trick is.

    edcraigslistaccount -

    my Homebutton don´t work after I reconnect all, I checked all flex cables but it still dont work. what can I do?

    Dr. Dieter - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    so, i’m working on an iPhone 7. I was very careful not to break anything, I even bought an iOpener heat pack and applied it, and everything went off without a hitch, but when I tested the button, It does not work, would it help to reconnect it or something?

    Thanks a lot!

    Peter Keller - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    iPhone 7 home “buttons” can be really fussy. You’ll find some good troubleshooting tips here and here. Hope this helps!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Broke my cable. The picture is not clear but you have to separate the thin silver end of cable from what looks like a black piece of rubber. I pulled up on it from under the black rubber like the picture shows and broke mine.

    bart.hutchings - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This helped me SO much. Watch it before removing home button. Around 4:56ish

    Gina Torres - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thank you so much!

    Jakob Kloppenborg -

    That’s a very good view. Thank you!

    johanbogg -

    Well, I just damaged the home button connector in step 21. It is completely off the cable. What now? Can I buy this connector ?

    dima shynin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I’m having a really hard time reconnecting the two together. Any advice?

    Ben Carter - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I used the tweezers in step 21 to separate this connector. I squeezed the tweezers shut then put the flat edge of the points between the connector and slowly released the tweezers. The connector separated really easy.

    sschaffer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This tip worked a treat. Thanks!

    Admin4CBowra -

    any tips on reconnecting the connector. I assume it needs to be snuggly fit back in. I can’t seem to connect the two agin. Is it supposed to ‘snap’ together or should I use an adhesive?

    rwalz - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Figured it out. I just needed to make sure I aligned them better when feeding the home button backthrough

    rwalz -



    MARU - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hi, After fixing Iphone 7 Plus screen, my touch sensor is not working, What is the alternative .. Please help me . Thanks

    kalyan c - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I found it quite difficult to reconnect the home button cable connector. After putting everything back together, my iPhone said there was an error with the TouchID. I disassembled the phone again, pried off the home button connector and found that I had not lined it up properly with the mated part. I had to push the connector upwards (toward the top of the phone) in order for it to seat properly. It almost felt unnatural to push the connector so far up to make it seat properly. I tested the phone again before reassembling and everything worked fine. If you break the cable on this home button piece, you can only buy a generic home button (about $8 here on Amazon) that will allow you to use the button for navigation but it will not work for TouchID (you will have to use your phone permanently unlocked or use a numeric code to unlock). The original home button is specifically mapped to your phone and cannot be replaced.

    awillimd - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  33. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 33, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 33, image 2 of 2
    • Carefully pry up the underlying connector and move it out of the way of the home/Touch ID cable.

    • It's very easy to damage your iPhone during this step. Work slowly and take care where you pry with your tool. If you damage the Touch ID hardware, it can only be replaced by Apple.

    • If the connector doesn't pry up easily, use a hair dryer or iOpener to heat and soften the adhesive securing the connector, and then try again.

    • Don't try to detach the connector completely—simply flip it up slightly so that the underlying home/Touch ID sensor cable can be removed.

    Make sure that you fold this cable out when fitting your replacement before you fasten the shield back down. I didn’t but managed to loosen 2 screws on the shield to get the cable out.

    chris_sawyer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If you have isopropyl alcohol on hand. You can use it to help weaken the adhesive temporarily when lifting up the adhered home button.

    Ben - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Just one tiny drop of isopropyl alcohol or it will reach the lcd screen.

    Stefano Restuccia -

    Heat is absolutely vital during this step. Care should be taken and you should work very slowly. A new playing card will be useful in separating the ribbon from the device, using heat periodically to soften the adhesive as you go along. The ribbon cable changes size between the connector and the button, creating a weak area that can begin to rip if stressed. Use a card flat against the frame to slowly separate the cable from the frame.

    Benji - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The isopropyl alcohol did the trick for me; all it takes is for you to dip the prying tool in a bit of the alcohol and the rest is magic. I did not have to apply heat and I was able to remove the home button from the original screen to transfer it to the new screen without any issue! Be careful, go slow, don't force things, and when it doubt view and review the video and instructions!

    Lemuel Gonzalez - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Alcohol or Ifixit adhesive remover is the trick. I used the tweezers to dip in the remover and just a smidgen is all you need, start on the connecter side and work towards the button. - On reassembly, I kept the screen protector on and just peeled it up enough to slide the button in, then used it to hold the button in place while I finished up.

    William Riggles - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  34. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 34, image 1 of 1
    • Heating the area around the home/Touch ID sensor will help soften the adhesive holding its delicate cable in place, making it easier to remove safely.

    • Flip the display assembly over. Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the display for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    If you don’t have that heating tool, a hair straightener n a T-shirt worked just fine for me

    www.tertlegerl - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    A hair dryer works well too. 2mins is all you need

    Mr Tegs - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I did with a heat gun instead. I found the i opener not helpful.

    David Gordon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I need just 1 min with my hair drier, then the screen starts to pop and crackle

    Andrew Sims - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  35. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 35, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 35, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 35, image 3 of 3
    • Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel.

    It cannot be stressed enough that this is the one part of this repair that you can’t screw up. Anything else you’ll deal with during this repair can be easily replaced (The screen, and the sensor/microphone/camera assembly). Tearing this cable means an expensive trip to the apple store. or a very unhappy customer if you’re doing this for someone. Heat is your friend. I don’t even use a spudger or a guitar pick for this one, I use a new playing card to pull this up. Even with the card, you have to be careful. The edge of the playing card can nick the cable if you’re not careful to get it under the ribbon cable. If the adhesive isn’t soft enough for the card to get it up, apply more heat. Again, you can’t screw this step up. It’s all or nothing.

    Spartan99 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thanks for the tip! worked great!

    Isaac Ham -

    Do you know what I need to do if I damage the cable?

    Hey hermano -

    Yes playing card is what I used too, worked very well. Just heat it up(I used a 3D printer bed for 30 seconds at 80°). Just go slow from right to left.

    cheap parts -

    Well, no visible damage but the home button won’t work. I contacted a local Apple Authorized Service Center to check options. Since I had personally replaced the screen assembly, they wouldn’t even look at it per Apple policy. They said they would jeopardize their Apple Authorization if they even looked at it. Seems like more of the “Right to Repair” problem to me. Frustrated, but at least I have the accesibility home button working.

    bandman - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Make sure the home button screws aren’t overtightened; that often causes issues. If there’s any damage to the button cable, a repair shop with a skilled microsolderer can patch a new cable on and restore functionality. iPhone 7 home button not working after screen replacement? Worst case scenario, you can also buy a screen repair from Apple, and they’ll include a new home button. I am not a lawyer, but the response you’re describing from the AASP sounds way out of bounds. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I don’t know why this step does not include a major warning about it being by far the most challanging step. I started before reading the comments and most likely screwed my home button with it,

    I don’t know if it is a broken cable or if it was too much heat later…but I scratched the cable on the first try with the plectrum. It took lots of heat to soften the adhesive and then it worked WAY better for me to start removing the connector from the near side of the home button. And not, as shown, on the far side.

    Wish I had known that before - the homebutton ist not working anymore now (and it’s not the screws).

    Robert -

    Just keep in mind that this is a very delicate step that requires a lot of patience. the part is attached to the body of the phone so firmly and there is no gap to put the opening pick under. So the way I did it was applying a good amount of heat onto the part and not from behind. I did it constantly for 5 minutes, a few minutes at a time, then I pulled the connected up slightly (a little too much pressure on the pull and you will break the wire). Pull it constantly and If the heat has been enough to melt the adhesive, it should come off easily and slowly.

    ashkan eslami fard - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hi, a little thing to help : i heatened up and then insert a cutter blade to start. Work better

    Crasset Renaud - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Okay the home button is connected, as touch id works, but I can’t get any motion out of it. I backed off the screws, but that didn’t help. What else can I try?

    kathwick2 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The home button on an iPhone 7 Plus doesn’t move at all. Anything you feel during normal operation is a small vibration from the Taptic Engine that tricks your brain into thinking the button is moving.

    markpetereit -

    Salve, vorrei un vostro aiuto, ho un problema con il tasto home (il tasto è originale preso dal vecchio display rotto) una volta sostituito il Touch ID funziona perfettamente (l’iPhone si sblocca e legge l’impronta digitale) il tasto invece no (il click per intenderci) cosa può essere? Grazie!

    bernabbo - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I had to use the iOpener tool twice before the adhesive was soft enough to remove the cable with the pick.

    sschaffer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    How do I get the home button out? I got the ribbon up.. just not sure how the button comes out

    Ash - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hi, i replaced the screen and home button, the home button was a bit difficult. When i turn on the Phone, touch id works fine but not home button function. Any idea ?

    Jim - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    More precisely, i was wondering if the home button could not work while touch idea does…

    Jim -

    Wow…I did a lot of praying during this step.

    tomnape - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This was a very difficult step… I found using heat wasn't removing the adhesive for my home button. Found a video online that recommended using a playing card and a tiny bit of rubbing alcohol on the corner and slowly sliding it under. I was able to finally remove my home button using this tip.

    ryan pouliot - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Heat via hairdryer applied for a solid 3 minutes worked for me.

    natjpollard - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thank the stars that I looked at these comments. I managed to do this and transferred the home button successfully. The pick is not good enough to do this job. The suggestion to use a new playing card helped. I also found that if you use a single edged razor to ply apart the bezel from the screen then when you apply heat with the heat gun the bezel will melt and bend a bit out of shape allowing you to use the playing card to lift the home button strip away from the bezel. The adhesive on the old home button strip was enough to stick it to the new screen bezel without having to buy new adhesive.

    David Gordon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thanks for the tip on the new playing card and rubbing some isopropyl alcohol on the corner of the card! I also peeled back the metal plate on the broken screen to get that bracket out of the way for better access to the cable. After applying heat and slowly and steadily working up the cable with the card, the home button popped out in proper working order.

    Nick Nave - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Given that the old screen was already broken. I cut away the part of the screen where the button is, this gave easy access to the side of the ribbon cable which made it simple to gently pry it up and separate it from the plastic case.

    Charles Hope-Lang - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  36. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 36, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly by lifting it through the front side of the display.

    • To reinstall, first feed the cable through the hole in the front of the display.

    • Your replacement part may come with an extra Y000 screw already installed right of the Home Button. Remove the unnecessary screw so that you can reinstall the home button bracket.

    • Follow this guide to install replacement display adhesive on your screen.

    True to this picture, the home button can only be removed (and put back in place) through the front of the LCD assembly.

    Talon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    OHMYGOD! Thank. you for this! After ruining *three* displays while inserting the home button from the back, I finally saw this comment…

    In my defense I had no internet access through some of these replacements… but really, I’m sorry to say, this merits a MAJOR warning on the guide.

    Cam F -

    Very good comment Talon. That was the first thing I was looking for here. There should be a bullet point in step 24 - Carefully remove home button from front of display being careful not to damage cable.

    Tracey - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Had an issue when putting the screen back on, the side where the cables attach would not sit flush. At first I thought the cables were pushing the screen up. Turned out to be the battery cable shield was just a fraction too far down toward home button. After loosening screws, nudging it up slightly and screwing back in, the screen sat flush as it should. In case anyone else has same issue.

    jbarry - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Is there anything special about reassembling the "home" button ?

    I tried several times with several buttons but none works.

    Lambiel - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    must use original button

    Christa -

    My phone is no more turning on after I replace the screen, no reaction if I press home button or power button

    cheryl.iseli - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Why doesn’t this tutorial also cover the earpiece assembly?

    James - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This guide is missing the camera transfer and the stupid little black sticker on the earpiece assembly that causes the earpiece not to work if that sticker is not transferred. This guide is wholly incomplete

    Mason Schild - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This guide is meant for the ifixit parts, not other third-party screens.

    Ben Carter -

    Since I bought the replacement screen from iFixit and it has NO camera and speaker part anymore, the replacement of those parts should also be in this guide.
    And, the replacement of those parts (camera, speaker, true light sensor, and aprox. sensor) is the most difficult!

    Hannes -

    James and @computermason—You’ll want to look up the correct guide for your repair, especially if you’re not using one of the kits for which this guide is designed. The guide for transferring all the smaller components is here.

    Jeff Suovanen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    No home button functionality? I just watched a video on YouTube from two years ago saying that the iPhone 7 and 7+ have to be taken to an Apple repair center for the home button to work. Is this still the case? If so why didn’t you tell me this before I ordered this! Please confirm before I start warning everyone not to purchase from you!

    Gregory Haycock - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    @ghaycock If you’re replacing a screen, the home button will work fine as long as you carefully remove it from the old screen and transfer it to the new one, exactly as explained in the guide. The button itself can’t be replaced without help from Apple (which is why iFixit doesn’t sell home buttons for this model).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsuovanen If you’re replacing a screen, the home button will work fine as long as you carefully remove it from the old screen and transfer it to the new one, exactly as explained in the guide. The button itself can’t be replaced without help from Apple (which is why iFixit doesn’t sell home buttons for this model).

    Jeff Suovanen - 06/11/2019

    Jeff Suoven-I bought a new home button from Ifixit for this phone (along with a digitizer assembly) and it doesn’t work.

    Jeff Steffens -

    One thing I don’t see mentioned is the replacement of the rubber gaskets that are on the pentalobe holes. The replacement screen did not come with these on it. I was able to remove them from the OEM screen, but there was no easy way to get them to adhere to the new screen. If they move just a little, you might not be able to properly thread the pentalobe screws. Worst case is that they fall into the body of the phone during this last step of re-assembly. At that point, you’ve already started to have the screen stuck to the adhesive, so you would need to redo the entire adhesive gasket.

    You can see the gaskets in this picture:

    Here they are near the new screen:

    Andre LeBlanc - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thank you! I was wondering what those things did, and even lost one but later was lucky enough to find it.

    Ben Carter -

    I saw one mention about those small gaskets in a guide and now I cannot find it. I was able to slip them off the old screen and onto the new one. I would think this is an important step to help seal those holes for the waterproofing. They should edit these screen replacement guides to include this step. Thanks for mentioning it in this guide.

    sschaffer -

    If your home button doesn’t work after transferring to the new screen you might have a faulty screen. I spent a lot of time chasing all the suggestions here, but eventually resolved the issue by installing a replacement screen.

    nigel - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    WARNING: When you reassemble the phone, the little screws… You have to be VERY careful to not put any pressure on them until they’re really well seated, otherwise you will flick the screws into another dimension… they’re so small they literally just vanish out of existence lol. I ended up losing two of the smallest screws, one per bracket, and everything seems fine so far.

    The glue/seal is also nearly impossible to get right. Just mash it down into the general area that it belongs if it gets stretched/twisted and can’t go in perfectly. Some glue is better than no glue, just assume that any repaired iPhone isn’t water resistant at all.

    Nicholas Tenney - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The biggest issue I'm having now Is replacing the gasket that goes around the home button. The original one got stretched out and the new on is too thick to seat correctly into the hole without being exposed and potentially coming off of the home button after a while.

    Eric R Deshields - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I ordered a replacement screen from ifixit, but contrary to the description it arrived without the ancillary parts attached. So I had to transfer the front camera & sensor assembly, and the lcd shield. In case anyone else needs to do this, be sure when transferring the lcd shield that the screen cable sits properly underneath it (ie as far up towards the top of the screen as possible) or else the rectangular block on the cable will foul the loudspeaker.

    If this happens, the bottom right corner of the screen will stand very slightly proud of the case, and you will end up with a pressure spot on the screen.

    See Pressure spot on iPhone after screen replacement..

    Neil Wilson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Well I transferred all the parts properly, but the front camera wasn’t working. Reseating it fixed the camera but then when I closed the screen it cracked. I backed out to the old screen which is held together by tape, but miraculously everything including the camera and Touch ID is fine. Better luck next time.

    jack jones - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I did not realize that the much cheaper 3rd party replacement I purchased also required the further steps of removing and replacing front facing camera and speaker. I was pretty bummed initially as it looked intense…however i totally pushed through using another ifixit guide and saved $50. My only advice to a first timer would be get a $15 heat gun or the bean bag microwave thing, the hardest part is getting it open.

    Cramps Delight - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The cable is more than fragile and immediately broke right off my phone! Mine is no good anymore, but I wanted to warn everyone else just one more time…BE SO SUPER GENTLE and PATIENT…and even then, I’m not totally convinced that it is possible!! I was doing so well, right up to the point when I got to the one part that only Apple can fix and that will totally ruin your repair!!! SHAT!!!

    Good Luck all!!!

    jenn ross - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I don't understand whether I need to glue the ribbon back down on the new screen. I have not been sent any adhesive for it. The guide mentions replacing adhesive for the screen, but do you mean the home button ribbon itself? If so, what should I use?

    charlie B - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I can’t get the home button to stay in place when reataching it to the phone. Anyone know what I’m doing wrong?

    johanbogg - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The ribbon in steps 16 and 17, when reconnecting and sealing the phone, is really something to be careful with. I feel like I smooshed it in, and while the phone works after the replacement, I feel like the right side of the phone, near the power button, isn’t quite set in 100 properly. I wish I would have taken better note of how it looked prior to removing the broken screen. Hopefully, it will settle in better once the adhesive sets. At this point, however, the fact that I got through the process with what I would call 99% success is a win for me. Just be careful of the aforementioned ribbon when setting the new screen on.

    Mike K - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    So I put the home button onto my new screen and the touch ID works however, when you press down on the button to return home for example, it doesn’t work. Any ideas what might be causing this? I made sure not to tighten the screws too much when reinstalling.

    Hayden - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The home bottom sensor cable does not plugin into the new screen, if put it back to old screen it plugin nicely and directly , but on the new screen it does not stay, it does not plug in the new screen, what to do?

    mohamed elzaiady - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The comments suggest the home button is well stuck down.

    Does the home button need adhesive to stick it back onto the new screen? If so, what do you use/where do you get it?


    Andrew Murtha - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Very disappointed. Front camera and home button not working. And overheating too. I would like a refund Ifixit.

    Xavi Rojas - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Esta incompleto, falta el desmontaje de los elementos de la parte superior de la pantalla

    Alfredo Alvarez - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  37. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, LCD and Digitizer: step 37, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, LCD and Digitizer: step 37, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement, LCD and Digitizer: step 37, image 3 of 3
    • Peel back the upper, rectangular portion of the LCD shield plate sticker to separate it from the flex cable underneath.

    • You don't need to remove the sticker completely unless you intend to replace it.

  38. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 38, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 38, image 2 of 2
    • Use a Y000 driver to remove three 1.1 mm screws from one side of the display EMI shield.

    • If you have trouble loosening these screws, press the driver harder onto the screw as you turn it. If necessary, use the flat edge of your spudger to brace each display clip from behind so you can apply more pressure to the screws, without bending the clips.

    glad apple pre-stripped these for me

    Tade Mutrie - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  39. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 39, image 1 of 1
    • Use a Y000 driver to remove two more 1.1 mm screws from the other side of the EMI shield.

    I wonder why this part is separated from step 38. You’re doing the same thing on 38 and 39.

    Yusuke Tsuji - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  40. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 40, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the EMI shield near the bottom of the display.

  41. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 41, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 41, image 2 of 2
    • Lift the LCD shield plate while pressing down on the flex cable it surrounds.

    • Feed the flex cable through the cutout in the LCD shield plate, being careful not to snag it.

    What if the black rectangle part that goes around the little silver rectangul is broken

    Brittany Jackson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I broke one. It just would not go back around the part, so I just put it around what I could and the phone worked fine. I’m replacing the panel on another one right now that someone else had already replaced, (the girl broke her screen again) and the little black part was just laid on top of the silver part and it worked fine. Don’t have a clue why that little black rectangle is even there. It doesn’t appear to be needed.

    mcr4u2 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  42. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 42, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the LCD shield plate.

  43. iPhone 7 Plus LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 43, image 1 of 1
    • Only the LCD and digitizer remains.

    I finished and my phone was like new but then I removed the glass from the old lcd and put that in by itself into the the phone and didn’t work so I put my replacement screen back in and now it doesn’t work and the connector smells

    John - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0


Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or search our Answers forum for help.


Jeff Suovanen


396.543 crwdns2915208:0crwdne2915208:0



iFixit crwdns2886886:0iFixitcrwdne2886886:0





Step 14 Pic# 3 the second cable damaged , what can i do ?!

Ameed Bader - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

If you damaged only the cable and nothing else, replacing the display should solve the problem—it will come with new cables attached.

Jeff Suovanen -

For anyone performing hardware exchanges, there is a free app on Apple store called Dr. Phone that can be used to test the several hardware components… Nice to do before closing it up..

H. Alves - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Has anyone else had trouble getting the Y000 screws out from the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor? All other Y000 came out no problem. These are fighting me. The driver seems to be spinning in place as if too big. Follow up question. If I strip these screws, any idea how to get them out then?

jferguson757 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

In my situation the Y screw behind the Home/Fingerprint Button seems to be GLUED ON by design to prevent inexperienced non-certified Apple replacers to remove it. So what I did was left it on to prevent stripping the screw and breaking the button. I just CAREFULLY BENT the metal bracket AT AN ANGLE so that I can maneuver the whole assembly into the hole of the screen and remove it.

Eric Vengeance -

I'm having the same issue. I stripped out the home button screw help please!

Chris Ellis - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Step 16 remember to not put the cable back upside down -.-

onikristy - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Excellent guide. Thank you very very much.

roycomp10 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

i changed the screen and iphone 7 plus is not working at all… central button is making crazy noises (bumpings) when i touch it. any help plz?

la la - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Usually my replacements go great, but I’m not having any luck this time and I think I may have damaged a connector. I’ve attached the new screen, but it doesn’t turn on. I tried attaching the old and it no longer lights up. If I call the phone, it vibrates, so I know it is working. I also noticed that pressing the power button when it is vibrating from a call does not silence it. So I don’t think that button is working either…

Has anyone else run in to this issue?

Christopher - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Sounds a lot like a blown backlight circuit. Usually when this happens, it’s because the battery wasn’t disconnected properly when removing or installing the display connectors. You can confirm by shining a bright light on the display when the phone is switched on—if you see a faint image, that’s a backlight failure. This is a common issue, and perfectly fixable, but requires board-level repair skills and equipment (read: not a DIY). Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Many Thanksgiving Jeff.

Your guide is fantastic.

You have had on mind all the details.

Contratulations for this guide.

jaimero - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Phew! That was tricky. Had some trouble getting the tri-lobe screws out of the Touch ID assembly - they were done up real tight. Swapping it over and reinstalling in the new digitiser was a breeze.

I assembled the phone (without adhesive) first to test everything. Touch ID, camera and speaker all leapt into life, but the proximity sensor didn’t seem to work. I took the phone apart and dismantled the camera/speaker/proximity sensor assembly, cleaned the contacts, replaced the double-sided insulating tape, and reassembled it. This time I managed to seat the proximity sensor with a positive click, then everything went together easily. I trusted that this had fixed it and went ahead with adhesive installation before finally reattaching the front panel.

Thanks to the author, plus several useful comments, my iPhone 7+ is now fully operational again!

meadowend - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

After doing this repair, the new screen has problems with the response to tapping icons, and sliding for shutting down the telephone. I kitnd of have a lack in responsitivity, if it responds at all.

Any suggestions to the reason for this or for a way to fix it? The screen and LDC was bought at iFixit.

Carsten Heegaard - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Check the connectors in this step. Make sure they’re clean and fully seated. If you still have problems, follow the troubleshooting wiki or contact Customer Service. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Procedure works well and is easy to follow. Thank you.

Americo Garcia Jr - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

The app is Dr Fone not phone in case someone needs to find the app

Tyler Dearden - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0



crwdns2894766:024crwdne2894766:0 29

crwdns2894768:07crwdne2894768:0 186

crwdns2894768:030crwdne2894768:0 849

crwdns2894770:0crwdne2894770:0 175,750