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Introduction

Use this guide to bring life back to your iPhone 7 with a new battery. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

This guide instructs you to completely detach the display assembly; this is intended to prevent damage to the display cables. If you feel comfortable removing the battery without putting undue strain on the display cables, you can skip the steps for disconnecting the display.

For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

Video Overview

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Reply

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Reply

    Can’t get the display front

    Bernadette Pfeifer - Reply

    From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.

    ballina5ny - Reply

    I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.

    Mark Lieberman - Reply

    in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)

    Jan-Tijn Oppermann -

    the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Reply

  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    ¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

    joscarlos91 - Reply

    Sesenta segundos

    Krutav Shah -

    It is a process. I heated the lower area of the phone with a hair dryer on and off (1min each) about 3-4 times before I was able to get the provided tool in.

    Dan - Reply

    I suggest using a hairdryer. I used the iOpener for maybe 30 mins to no avail. However, when I used the hairdryer the screen came of much quicker.

    Michael - Reply

    I totally Mr. Myagi’ed it, by rubbing my hands together until they burned, then held the phone un my hot hands. I did this 5-6 times over a couple of minutes. It was a good zen way to get started!

    Ark - Reply

    Can a heat gun be used?

    Lee - Reply

    Absolutely. Just don’t overdo it—the adhesive usually softens up pretty easily. If you are experienced with a heat gun, you’ll have no problem. (If you are inexperienced, it’s easy to cook the display or cause other damage.)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If i use this process, will iphone 7 still be sealed, water/ splash resist after that?

    Marius Serban - Reply

    Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Angel Hermida -

    Can I use a cpb heating pad to soften the adhesive ? If yes how much time and temperature ?

    davidecongiu - Reply

    Will doing this compromise the screen protector (Zagg) that I have on my phone?

    Eric Nance - Reply

    Hairdryer worked for me but I needed to use a razor to pry it open at the bottom then used the spudger

    Gina Torres - Reply

    Is there a reason why you wouldn’t put the iopener over the entire length of the phone, instead of just the bottom corner?

    BPX - Reply

    The motherboard is extremely sensitive to heat.

    Neal Reasland -

    Hello can the head damage the id touch bottom?

    After heating opening it stoped working.

    Qrizmasex @ gmail . Com

    aratovski - Reply

    It definitely can. That happened to me.

    Steve Naylor -

    mine didnt come with a heat pack do i use a hair dryer

    Shy Rose - Reply

    I just threw a hand towel in hot water, and then stuck it into a plastic bag. Dryers work fine, too.

    hiroo yamagata -

    Thanks for this, the other instructions make it seem SOOOOO simple to open up the case with the suction cup! It actually is hellish. The instruction here about the pre-heating and the required patience really helped!

    hiroo yamagata - Reply

  3. Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
    • Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

    Display is glued and doesn't come off.

    support - Reply

    A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

    Mimic44444 - Reply

    Last comment works well. Thank you !

    Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

    Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

    Arni Benediktsson - Reply

    I agree that using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in this steps description. I don’t have wide but turned mine horizontal and that worked great.

    Mary Knapp - Reply

    Bekomme die Oberschale einfach nicht runter! Trotz mehrmaligem erwärmen durch den iOpener und seitlichen bewegen! Weiß nicht mehr weiter!

    Stephan Lienhard - Reply

    Wouldn’t that screw up the Touch ID?

    Rexx Havok - Reply

  4. Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.
    • Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

    This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

    jessica harlow - Reply

    I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

    mcr4u2 -

    I confirm that the plastic spudger it’s not the best tool for this operation. I suggest to use a larger metal tool like a “Jimmy” or “iSesamo open tool” (I used the first one)

    Cristef -

    Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

    Jordon Johnson - Reply

    Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

    Jordon Johnson - Reply

    This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

    Chris Gallego - Reply

    Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

    Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

    amberron - Reply

    I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

    Ted - Reply

    This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.

    Dan - Reply

    use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger

    Therese Peffer - Reply

    The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)

    johnhall918 - Reply

    Unable to open an iPhone 7 display assembly. Used gell pack at 150 degrees F. The phone wouldn’t budge when I used the iFixit suction cut. Part of the problem is that the cup doesn’t adhere for long before it looses suction. I suspect it would work better on unbroken glass, but that doesn’t help me now. After spending a lot of time at this, I changed heating methods to a hot air heater. I raised the temp of the bottom end of the phone to, ultimately, 175 degrees, and used a variety of tools to try to pry the glass apart enough to get a spudger (or anything) in, but it didn’t even lift enough for a double-edged razor blade to get in. I’ve been trying this for hours now, and about to give up and throw a lot more money at this to have a service perform the work. I figured that 175 was as high as I should need to go to soften the adhesive without damaging the electronics. Should I have gone higher? I see no mention of measured temps in any instructions or comments.

    ted - Reply

    Have you tried applying tape to the broken screen? This will help a lot with keeping the suction cup on it.

    Christian Groothuis -

    It doesn’t need to get very hot; pulling up on the display is mainly what does the trick. Make sure the two pentalobe screws have been removed and then try the tricks in this step. If all else fails, superglue the suction cup to your display and let it cure, and then pull. Keep in mind you only need a tiny gap to insert a plastic pick and start cutting the adhesive. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just a question. After this operation the impermeability function was compromitted?

    bentek86 - Reply

    The trick I found, was to add packing tape right across the bottom over the home button then use hairdryer on the end, then suction cup on the very bottom and it lifted enough to get a gap. No one mentioned how it would be impossible to handle the phone after the hairdryer ;)

    Andrew Lansdowne - Reply

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Reply

    I used a hair drier while lifting up at the same time until I could get the too inside. The seal is pretty finicky. Just take your time and you should be fine. Work the hair drier and the tool all the way around before lifting the screen up and off. There will likely be sealant stuck between the screen and phone. You can just break it with the tool.

    Ray Bieze - Reply

    This step was impossible for me despite using a blow dryer and having no cracks on the screen. I finally took it to a local repair place and had them do battery replacements for two iPhone 7’s. The girl let me watch her do it. She used a razor blade (just until she had a small opening that she could hold open with her fingernail) and confirmed that she too would have difficulty opening it with a plastic tool and suction cup. The plastic tool was great for prying the rest of it open once a crack was there, but she said she would never try to use that as the tool to initially open it. The tools provided for initially prying open the screen are inadequate.

    Chad Twedt - Reply

    Hopeless - no chance to get the screen off without any damage. No matter what tools, heat etc.

    Anatole Beams - Reply

    I second what others have said, definitely use a razor blade to break the seal! Heat helps some, but too much direct heat is bad for the screen. Would have been impossible if I hadn’t read the comments, thanks everybody!

    Kit - Reply

    Use extreme caution on this step. I was just replacing my battery and now i’m buying a new screen. The screen was very stuck, I pulled to hard and it popped off suddenly, completely destroying the screen.

    moose - Reply

    When the right heat is reached, the easiest way is to use a metal iFlex to create the initial gap, then insert the Jimmy or iSesamo next to it so the gap gets bigger, at this point you can get in with the flat edge of a plastic spudger and slowly slide it in the borders to cut the adhesive. You will still need to force a bit the upper end to separate the screen by pulling it down while keeping up the screen, and twist to the right. I hope this is clear enough. Never apply too much strength too quickly anyway.

    Stefano Restuccia - Reply

    I used the short blade of my swiss knife to make an initial opening. Using the sharp edge, inserting about 1 mm straight down and twisting down into a 45° angle. Then I was able to insert the spudger.

    John van de Loo - Reply

    This is a difficult step. Fortunately, I had another suction cup from an earlier repair available, so I applied one to each side of the phone. After warming with a hair dryer, I was able to pull the two suction cups far enough away that another person could easily insert the spudger.

    The third hand was essential.

    Mark - Reply

    It was a really excruciating process of heating, lifting with the suction cup, trying to slide in the spudger/pick, and repeating the process for 20 times or so. But in the end, my patience paid off!

    hiroo yamagata - Reply

  5. Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.
    • Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Reply

    I used a hairdryer and a razor

    Gina Torres - Reply

    The photos are a con. You cannot get a spudger in unless you can lift the screen. You cannot lift the screen because of the adhesive. Using a anything metal will damage the paintwork or the glass edge.

    Anatole Beams - Reply

    I agree, these guides are half imaginary idealism it seems. A thin metal edge pushed vertically down just a fraction of a mm will cause the adhesive to weaken better than any amount of heat, but affects the final appearance sadly.

    Jesse de Vries - Reply

  6. Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch. Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display. Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.
    • Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch.

    • Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.

    Be VERY careful on this next step going up the right side of the phone. There is a ribbon cable 1/3 of the way up from the bottom that is very close to the edge. Do NOT use the blue triangle!!!! Just lightly rotate the spudger to get separation on the edge.

    Timothy Varvais - Reply

  7. Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.
    • Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Do not insert the spudger further than the adhesive to avoid damaging delicate ribbon cables along the right edge.

    Shoot. I broke the sensitive ribbon cable because I didn’t quite understand what the instructions meant with not to insert the spudger further than the adhesive. It means depth wise, not up the side. Sigh.

    Leo Hwang - Reply

  8. Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone. Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.
    • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

    • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

    do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

    Riley Patterson - Reply

    Made this mistake

    rachael.grime - Reply

    Somehow my phone turned itself back on during the opening. Scared me a little, like a patient coming out of anesthesia during the operation. I was able to turn it back off. Gotta be more careful where you grab this thing.

    Bryant Larsen - Reply

  9. Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
    • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  10. Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place. Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.
    • Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place.

    • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.

    The plastic clips mentioned are on the top of the screen being replaced… so not sure why it matters not to break them. Trick here was to pull the screen downwards to open a gap at the top and then insert as shown and raise to break the seal.

    Andrew Lansdowne - Reply

    This is relevant for other guides than the display replacement guide.

    jvalaamo -

  11. Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
    • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    I just broke the cable to the battery!

    No Bama - Reply

    same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

    Aiden Polaski - Reply

    Are there replacements ribbons?

    Blax Bently - Reply

    Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?

    I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws

    richarddillon - Reply

    Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!

    Albert -

    Same, I only had one fall out and I had no idea if important, and didn’t re-add - because I wasn’t sure where it fell from - but it was definitely from the home screen button….watch it be important. -__-

    Nicole Crome -

    I just broke cable connecting camera and earpiece speaker to logic board. Be careful with it.

    Natan Haładyn - Reply

    This section is missing a critical step - to lay some Post-It notes or something below the right half of the phone when you swing it open, so the ribbon cables don’t get sliced by the sharp edge of the phone case. I broke the Home Button ribbon cable because there was no strain relief when I laid it open.

    neila - Reply

    I also broke the home button cable and now I have to use assistive touch.

    Laurencio Gonzalez - Reply

    Keep the suction cup on the display to keep it propped up while you disconnect the ribbon cables.

    minimalist - Reply

    I broke the short ribbon cable that attaches underneath the lower connector bracket. Be SURE when you lift the display, you do it from left to right. I thought I had the phone oriented correctly in my hand, but I was mistaken.

    John Murray - Reply

    Put the suction cup on the right side of the middle of the screen when you rotate it up and out. It serves as a nice stand to take the pressure off the connectors.

    Ray Bieze - Reply

    no mention of what you do once u open the book. are the ribbons long enough to lie flat  or do we have to keep screen raised while removing screws,, like when we hold screen up 45 degrees while removing 5 screw plat when at top of phone. I only realised how fragile the ribbons are and how important it is to use suction  cup to rest screen on an angle so ribbons don't stretch or cut on frame.

    thanks for the above comments and probably the most important section. I just hope I closed t before I fdid any damage. its lke the fragility of iPhone 3’s all over again.

    scallyteacher - Reply

    I just broke one of the cables… yeah, it is not nice… I’m lucky in the sense the screen is still working, but the button is not.

    Trying a cheap screen on Ebay (that contains the cable) do 20$, after that, it’s a new cellphone…

    Vincent Poirier - Reply

    • Remove four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower connector bracket, of the following lengths:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.4 mm screw

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Reply

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Reply

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Reply

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Reply

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Reply

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Reply

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - Reply

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - Reply

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - Reply

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - Reply

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - Reply

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke - Reply

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio - Reply

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

    The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

    Harmony Vine - Reply

    Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

    Chris Bennett - Reply

    If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

    jvalaamo - Reply

    Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

    Gina Torres - Reply

    I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

    Ray Bieze - Reply

    I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small.  use a magnetised screwdriver,  or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol

    scallyteacher - Reply

    Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid

    mark golling - Reply

    I couldn’t get the lowest one out and just turned the metal bracket out of the way and replaced battery.

    qwerty77x - Reply

    Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.

    Galen Wollenberg - Reply

    The top screw in the step was much longer than 1.2mm. It has the same head as the 1.2mm, but different than the 2.4mm. It’s good to keep track of where they came from.

    All are so small that I thought I’d lost one, when it was still sitting in the phone.

    Mark - Reply

  12. Remove the lower connector bracket.
    • Remove the lower connector bracket.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Reply

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Reply

    So…I forgot to put this bracket back on when reassembling. Now I’ve adhered the display to the case and don’t have another adhesive strip…so I’m wondering: what purpose does this bracket serve? The phone is powering on and seems to work okay.

    Am I going to run into trouble with this bracket missing?

    Ian Fritz - Reply

    Well, that didn’t last long. The phone shuts down without warning. So I guess that plate is important…

    Ian Fritz -

  13. Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone.
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

    Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

    Julian Eltrich - Reply

    Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.

    I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.

    The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.

    It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.

    jason - Reply

  14. Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step. Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board. To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

    To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

    iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement

    minimalist - Reply

    MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.

    Arjun Nagarajan - Reply

    Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(

    garrett peek - Reply

    An earlier comment said to re-apply the suction cup to the right side of the display so that it acts as a stand when the phone is partially opened. That’s a great idea, and helps a lot for this step and the next.

    Mark - Reply

  15. Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Reply

    If you’re having trouble removing these screws;

    the screw on the right goes into a standoff screw that is screwed into the frame.The left one goes into the logicboard.

    If your phone is used most likely it has been repaired in the past and the person that repaired it put the screws in way too tight.

    If your phone is brand new And you know 100% it is then the problem is your screwdriver.Stop before you strip it completely and buy a better screwdriver (EBAY).

    If you already stripped the screw head take the phone to a shop before you break it.

    there are ways to get them out but truthfully it’s extremely dangerous and sometimes your better off quitting while you are ahead.

    Vegeta Barrett -

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Reply

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Reply

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Reply

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Reply

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - Reply

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - Reply

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell - Reply

    Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

    efazio588 - Reply

    PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

    minimalist - Reply

    I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

    Ray Bieze - Reply

    i used the little +-shape 30 mm screwdriver (not the Y…but the + shape).

    mason - Reply

    the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?

    patricia loving - Reply

    You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.

    jack jones - Reply

    Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O

    Nicole Crome - Reply

    What can I do to remove the screw (I stripped it)

    Alex Vu - Reply

    I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Reply

  16. Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board. This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.
    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - Reply

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui - Reply

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  17. Remove the display assembly.

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Reply

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui - Reply

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

    trent bost - Reply

    @trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

    Jeff Suovanen -

  18. Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case.
    • Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case.

    The barometric vent seems to have some foam cushioning towards the bottom of the case? does this get damaged via removal I wonder?

    Phil - Reply

  19. Remove the vent. Remove the vent.
    • Remove the vent.

  20. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board.

  21. Remove the three 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.
    • Remove the three 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.

    My screws are stripped here. Please help, I don’t know what to do!

    Salva Alcón - Reply

    My screws are also stripped here, but the phone has never been opened before!

    Kyle Webb - Reply

    Hey Salva and Kyle, sorry to hear about all these stripped screws! For help with removing them, check out our guide.

    Adam O'Camb - Reply

    I had a new phone. These screws were missing when I disassembled it. Not sure what QC Apple has, but it ain’t great. If they’re missing it’s not the end of the world. You can just disable taptic touch.

    Ray Bieze - Reply

    I had my 7 battery replaced by an Apple Authorized dealer. Around 2 weeks after the taptic engine started to make a !&&* of a noise when it was activated (sounded as if it was loose)… then 1 month after that… it stopped working completely. fast forward 8-9 months later, the battery they had replaced just wasn’t holding its charge anymore (phone was spending more time plugged in charging and depleting very quickly = full charge lasted about 1-2 hours). Having bought the ifixit battery and have gotten as far as this step, I could see that all three of the 1.6mm screws were just floating around in the compartment and the taptic engine was just being held on via it’s ribbon lead. WTF?! Screws aren’t stripped and I managed to fix it in again. Why would these screws be floating around like this??

    Phil - Reply

  22. Remove the Taptic Engine. Remove the Taptic Engine.
    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

  23. Use a pair of tweezers with blunt tips to peel back one of the adhesive strips on the lower edge of the battery. Use a pair of tweezers with blunt tips to peel back one of the adhesive strips on the lower edge of the battery. Use a pair of tweezers with blunt tips to peel back one of the adhesive strips on the lower edge of the battery.
    • Use a pair of tweezers with blunt tips to peel back one of the adhesive strips on the lower edge of the battery.

  24. Use a pair of tweezers with blunt tips to peel back the other adhesive strip on the lower edge of the battery. Use a pair of tweezers with blunt tips to peel back the other adhesive strip on the lower edge of the battery.
    • Use a pair of tweezers with blunt tips to peel back the other adhesive strip on the lower edge of the battery.

    I can recommend preheating - first phone attempted without preheating both strips broke almost instantly, but this time heating the back of phone until battery felt about 40 degrees made for a smooth removal, saving me ages prying it out with cards…

    Jesse de Vries - Reply

  25. If this is your first time removing an iPhone battery adhesive strip, refer to the video in the following step before beginning. Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly. Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
    • If this is your first time removing an iPhone battery adhesive strip, refer to the video in the following step before beginning.

    • Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

    • Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

    • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.

    My adhesive strips tore almost immediately. I ended up using an old membership card as a tool to pry the battery out. I must admit, I did deform the battery - seemed almost unavoidable.

    Dan - Reply

    Same here, I had to work it out with the guitar pic they give you.

    greggammon - Reply

    I GENTLY heated the back case with my heat gun and BOTH strips came out PERFECTLY.

    Mike Gill - Reply

    How do you keep it from wrinkling without tearing

    James Green - Reply

    It always tears for me too. They make it look super easy in the videos ;)

    Anthony - Reply

    Worked for me by setting the phone on a sock with rice (heated for 30 seconds) while I messed with these. Pulled the white part SLOWLY.

    mason - Reply

    After a past experience with the adhesive strips immediately tearing on an iPhone 4, I knew to heat the battery with a hair dryer before pulling on the strip. After heating the battery, I was able to pull the adhesive strip without any problems.

    Mark Lieberman - Reply

    • Repeat the previous step for the second strip.

    • Hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery when it separates from the case.

    • If you removed both adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.

    • Otherwise, if either of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, continue with the next step below.

  26. If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery. It should be slightly too warm to touch comfortably. Overheating the iPhone may ignite the battery.
    • If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery. It should be slightly too warm to touch comfortably.

    • Overheating the iPhone may ignite the battery.

    • Flip the phone over and use a plastic card to break up any remaining adhesive behind the battery.

    • Do not insert your card in the area between the volume down (-) button and the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the volume control cable lying underneath.

    • Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.

    • Keep the card as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals or catch fire. Do not use any sharp tools to pry at the battery.

    • Alternatively, a piece of dental floss may be used to separate the battery from the rear case. A stronger alternative to dental floss is an unwound guitar string, such as a 0.009 E string from a 12-string set.

    • Thread the floss or string behind the upper battery corners, bring the ends together, wrap them around a folded cloth, and pull evenly.

    As a professional tooth carpenter, I stand by this suggestion

    Anthony - Reply

    Bij mij brak ook een van de kleefstrips , ik heb toen de batterij een heel klein beetje opgelicht en er wat isopropyl (alcohol) laten tussenlopen en dan een halve minuut gewacht . Vervolgens heb ik heel voorzichtig in combinatie van een Plastic card en een iSesamo opening tool (deze zijn beiden hier te koop bij iFixit), de batterij kunnen los wrikken zonder dat deze beschadigd of geplooid was.

    clbr - Reply

  27. Remove the battery from the rear case.
    • Remove the battery from the rear case.

    • If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove the sleeve before installation by pulling it away from the ribbon cable.

    • If your new battery doesn’t have adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide to replace the adhesive strips.

    • Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

    After I replace the battery, should I put on the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive and then follow the steps in that guide to reassemble?

    Victor Bui - Reply

    Follow this guide for the display adhesive. There should be a link here for it. iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement

    minimalist - Reply

    ==> Step 18 !

    VauWeh -

    There should be directions as to how to locate the new battery in the case! There is enough freedom of movement that the battery could be glued back into the case and not be able to make the battery connection. Some temporary spacers would be a great idea.

    I put the Taptic Engine back in the case first. The battery seems to rest right against it, so it becomes a physical reference point. I cut out a piece of the plastic cover that came on the battery & put it over the battery connector mating point on the circuit board to keep the battery disconnected until necessary.

    Robert Rodenburg - Reply

    There should be a STEP 30 Instructions to refer you to the link for instructions for installing the REPLACEMENT SEALS. Or at least a big note saying to install the seal now before re-assembling

    David Reese - Reply

    Bought kit, followed all the instructions, and now the Touch ID and home button don’t work on my phone, rendering it useless. Connections are fine, no obvious cable tears, I’ve checked and rechecked all connections … not to mention, what component did I even touch to render home button useless since it’s on the display screen? This is going to cost me. What a horrible experience that’s taken up 4 hours and cost me time and money. Can’t recommend just shipping phone back to Apple enough. One of the most disappointing experiences with a product in ages. And all just to replace a freakin’ battery …

    John Cagle - Reply

    Hello guyz. Please help me. I tried to replace my iphone 7 battery. When i was removing the 4 tri wing screws on the cover that is covering the battery cable Etc, I used many screwdriver because at first I didn’t know that those are tri wing screws. I ordered .6 tri wing screwdriver. I successfully removed the 2 screws but the other 2 cannot remove. I think they are stripped or they are damaged because of what i did pn my first try. I dont know what to do. My iphone battery health is 73 percent. I want them to be removed but i dont know how. Pleaseee help mee guyss. (Sorry if my english is bad, im from Philippines) please help me

    Ryan Sacramento - Reply

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

479 other people completed this guide.

Paige Reisman

Member since: 04/07/2014

19,986 Reputation

15 Guides authored

62 Comments

Does this effectively negate the waterproof feature of the new iPhones?

Tubby - Reply

yes , unless it is sealed back with new waterproof tape, which almost no one has yet

Atronx -

No you can buy the replacement. See the above guide for a link on how to do that and iFixIt sells them. Recommend buying more than one because installation is tricky - must get it aligned perfectly though the spluger and pointy tweezers can help reposition minor slipups.

lovemymac -

iPhone 6 take battery off put new one now not changing at all but saying yes but no going up new battery saying all time 6@.all time

ant2101 - Reply

Is there any way to put back the waterproof sealing after changing the battery for iPhone 7? Thanks

Steven Tanda Putra - Reply

I too would like to know this! It's a shame they don't elaborate as such. There is this part here - Display Adhesive iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive which I assume needs to be put on after the screen is taken off but this guide says it's not needed? But for a screen repair it is? Does it get placed on the phone housing or screen? Thanks

blitzn -

Yep, we have a guide for replacing the seal (display adhesive) now. I don't know how waterproof the seal will be afterward, but I think it's worth doing regardless.

Jeff Suovanen -

Most of the adhesives that are being sold are not rated to be waterproof, and are not the geniune OEM brand materials.

Atronx -

Probably too late, but there are many vendors that sell the waterproof seal for iPhone7. Use alchohol and tweezers to remove the old seal and glue, align the new seal and stick it. Compared to the battery change, it’s a breeze.

hiroo yamagata -

Hi!

Now I got a huge problem concerning the HomeButton/ForceTouch-function.

It does not work anymore. I think it's a safety measure by Apple to prevent people from changing their batteries.

ANY HELP, please? :(

87schiller - Reply

Those functions aren't related to the battery. Double-check your work, reseat the cable connectors, and inspect the cables and home button hardware carefully for damage.

Jeff Suovanen -

I know this is a month late, but hopefully this helps someone. On the 7, 3D Touch and the home button are routed through the same flex cable that comes out from underneath the metal backing of the display and plugs into the board.

This flex cable is very easy to pull and damage when taking the screen off for the first time. In most situations you won't see this damage because it will be underneath the metal backing of the display.

If this same thing happens to you, you'll unfortunately need a screen replacement to fix it.

Cody Dover -

My problem is with the 4 tri screws holding the 1st bracket down. They just spin, all 4 of them. The screw heads aren't stripped, as they all spin, they just don't back out. I've applied backpressure in hopes that would help lift the screws, but no luck.

Jeff Hurst - Reply

Is Iphone 7 battery connector same as battery connector of Iphone 6S or other models?

Tumen - Reply

No. Different connectors.

Ben -

Might want to update your website.

iHelpU.Tech is currently working on obtaining certifications from Apple Inc. Currently none of our repairs are backed by Apple Inc.

obed - Reply

You dont have to remove the Taptic Engine but it gives you more room to work with the glue.

nicolay.94 - Reply

Hello there, I got a dead iPhone 7, so I tested the battery, and the only “weird” thing.. is that the battery is rated 3.8v… and on this one.. im having a reading of 4.1V…. maybe this overpowered issue is preventing the iPhone to turn on???

jbermudez27 - Reply

So, I changed the battery of my iPhone 7 with the kit provided by IFIXIT a couple of days ago, and cononutBattery is reporting that the battery is already at 95% (1862 out of 1960 mAh), with only 1 charge cycle. Is this normal?

Federico Baier - Reply

Hi Federico

Did you try the following tip?

For optimal performance after completing the guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Drain it below 10%, then charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

Takehiro -

nice video but if possible upload a pdf file

thank you very much…………….

Ali Zain - Reply

The step by step guide can be converted to a pdf by selecting Options>Download PDF.

Sam Goldheart -

in this website can i have mobile and tab schematics ?

Ali Zain - Reply

This is a truly fantastic account of how to do this. Well done.

I had to abandon when the kit I was supplied did not include a tri screwdriver but I watched the engineer finish my work and it was exactly as shown here.

hdisgreat - Reply

mnvery east to follow quide but i almoust did burn down my phone when i was removing battery it cathed on fire and i have no idea did i puncture it or what.

Samuli Karppinen - Reply

In any such venture, when dealing with precision components. DON’T RUSH, if you have any issue with hands that tremor for whateverr reason when handinlng small items, DON’T TRY THIS, LEAVE IT TO SOMEONE WITH STEADY HANDS !!

Shaun O'Connor - Reply

My iPhone 7 wasn't not charging. So, After searching on Google, I found this guide "iPhone 7 not charging". And, with this guide I get to know about that, my iPhone battery got damaged. And, My iPhone warranty also got expired. So, I have decided to replace the battery by myself. And, this guide really helped me to replace my iPhone battery. Just want to say thanks to you. :)

nagarakshya - Reply

Can you pull the battery adhesive tabs without removing the Taptic Engine? Anyone tried that?

Balle - Reply

@balleklorin You certainly can, but you’re much more likely to break the adhesive strips that way. You want to pull them at as low an angle as possible, and with the Taptic Engine installed you’ll have to pull them at nearly 90 degrees. My advice is not to take shortcuts, but it’s your phone and your rules! Good luck.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi ! I want to do this repair but I read online that if I use a non-original battery Apple’s software will detect it and will slow down the phone (like it does for the damaged original battery).

Is it still true or is it fixed in the current IOS ?

Quentin barbry - Reply

Not true at all. As long as you have a high-quality battery, the iPhone’s performance is just as good as with a brand-new battery from Apple. If you have any doubts, you can verify the performance by benchmarking it with the GeekBench app.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi everyone, I’ve replaced my iPhone 7 Battery and for some reason i am still seeing the old battery readings (same percentage and same battery health percentage 80%) on battery settings. Will this fix after the battery gets calibrated?

Thanks.

Juan Fonseca - Reply

my home button stopped working. Any ideas how to fix this ?

Dries Van de Velde - Reply

I‘ve done it step by step, everything went well. everything works, except touchID wont work.

could anyone tell me what the reason could be?

thank you lads.

davidaigner - Reply

Fun repair but why did apple change the battery screws to tri point… tri point suck!

[deleted] - Reply

Follow this guide for the display adhesive. There should be a link for it here in this guide. I had to go looking for it. iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement

minimalist - Reply

super détail pour les vis et leurs tailles

ca va m’ aider , car au démontage rien etait fixé, et il en manque 2 ( au moins 12 vis en promenades)

donc avec le kit commandé je pourrai m aider des différents tuto pour retrouver leurs emplacements

cordialement marchal

Gros Lutin - Reply

Excellent guide, but may I make a couple of suggestions:

1) in step 18 this guide should strongly recommend that anyone doing the waterproof sealant replacement MUST watch the linked “iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement” guide FIRST considering that it does require an additional tool (no, I did not have enough pennies on me to do the recommended heat treatment followed by weight-pressing the reassembled iPhone assisted by said pennies).

2) also in step 18, you could point out that the forward camera assembly at the top of the front plate of the iPhone 7 has a hooked ridge that must be fitted into the bottom plate for the re-assembly to work at all. Personally I had NOT noticed that, so when I tried to reassemble mine I hadn’t tried to make sure that the ridge was properly placed. Could you add a picture here of that ridge and perhaps recommend that everyone working on disassembly that they should see how it works so they can recall it upon re-assembly.

Arthur Maruyama - Reply

I agree. Reassembly is NOT the reverse of the many steps! That ridge or plastic edge MUST be slid into first. Opening the iPhone doesn’t reveal that. Careful, because the waterproof glue can catch the battery cable too. Aligning the battery by connecting the battery cable/ribbon helps BUT be careful and remember to disconnect the battery BEFORE reconnecting the two data cables (Again, this would be obvious if the steps or reassembly pics were included. Number of steps = 60 more realistically because reassembly is just as important and risky!

lovemymac -

BTW: when I first completed my re-assembly, when I first looked at my screen there was a set of greyish bands that covered about 1/3rd of the screen. Not so dark that clearly blocked the use of those parts of the screen but rather noticable. I shrugged my shoulders, thinking that perhaps there was some internal damage that I couldn’t help having done.

But less than 24 hours after that, that banding has been considerably reduced (covering less than 10%) AND it is much less grey. It is such that I must bring up an app like Notes in order to have a mostly blank white screen in order to see what remains, so perhaps this was merely an artifact left by the ending heating I did to “cure” the waterproof adhesive, and over time it will disappear entirely.

Arthur Maruyama - Reply

after doing this fix ive gotten a message - unable to activate touch id on this iphone —-its an iphone 7

Ryan D'mello - Reply

super! merci

Ali Hadjeres - Reply

Home button not working after battery replacement.

karllittau - Reply

Ugh. Touch ID not working after replacing battery — I figure I damaged the cable attached to the screen. I hard rebooted (down volume + power) and it didn’t help. Sad. Everything else ok.

mason - Reply

Thanks for the guide. Very helpful on two iPhones

For some reason i forgot to use the suction cup but was still able to open the phone without much difficulty (so don’t worry about needing iopeners etc. )

Of course one of my battery strips snapped, but with a bit of effort and pointed tweezers under the battery i managed to grab it after a few attempts and fully remove it.

Although you could do this without removing the screen, you will need to remove it to place a new sealant strip around the edge.

Stuart - Reply

Just completed changing the battery on my Father-in-law's iPhone 7. He had purchased the phone used and I suspect the battery had been replaced previously as there was no adhesive seal holding the display to the case. In addition one of the screws holding the bracket was missing. Nonetheless the procedure went very well. The instructions were clear and easy to follow. The most difficult part of this project was removing the battery from the case as the adhesive broke almost immediately. Fortunately the tips that are in that step made removing the battery easy. Bottom line, read the instructions ahead of time, watch the video and TAKE YOUR TIME! Good luck!

Lon Adams - Reply

I used this guide with the ifixit replacement kit and it went very well. I do wish though that the guide gave advice on how to install the new adhesive gasket when reassembling.

Thomas - Reply

Hey Thomas! Glad to hear that everything went well. Sorry to leave you hanging on the adhesive install, we do have a guide but it’s a little hidden. iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement

Taylor Dixon -

I followed every step. Replaced the battery. Played backwards every step. Now I am stuck with the Apple Logo slowly flashing on & off. I think I just killed my iPhone7. My Mac does not ‘see’ my phone when I connect it to iTunes.

Jeffery Barbour - Reply

This guide doesn’t really explain how to reapply the display assembly adhesive, which is necessary to restore the iPhone 7’s water resistance. As previously mentioned, check out this guide.

Anthony - Reply

i am not being able to do it… I have heated up the phone, to smooth the glue… but the cover doesn’t me off

matilde_napoleao - Reply

Good instructions. Two things that would be nice to add to reassembly would be how to apply the adhesive and seal.

Tom Fields - Reply

My iphone fell in the toilet and was there maybe 5 seconds. I dried it and let it rest but then (I know) tried to to do things. The next day (I took it to a TekDry machine and they put it through for two half hour plus periods. After the first half hour, the start screen came back for a maybe a minute. (I almost paid.) Then nothing. I brought it home and plugged it in to charge it. After 5 hours (?) it began to flash- It was like a living creature trying to breathe- It would light up- then go dark- many times. I tried a hard reset and think I managed to turn it off. Now it is in a vertical position, off the charger. This is a newly refurbished phone. (I had it for a day)- I am wondering where I could take it to in Seattle for someone to open it up. It will turn on even now. Or should I give it a decent burial? I am in my 70s and techno-challenged. Any advice, expressions of gentle derogation or approval, are welcome.

Lyn Coffin - Reply

Getting the adhesive to loosen was the hardest and most frustrating part of this with me trying it multiple times for a few days. Simply “warming up” the phone did not work, I had to make it really, really hot in order to lift the phone a fraction of a millimeter with the whole thing flying around the room and me hitting myself in the face with the suction cup multiple times. Using a thinner metal plunger did the trick, but scratched my case. Nevertheless, it was the only way to open up that beast. A third hand would have been be nice for that job x)

Wilk Polarny - Reply

Me too. I stopped and bought the tool that has two suction cups and looks like pliers. It allowed me to gently squeeze, release, squeeze and eventually it began to separate. Also, that tool kept me from pulling to hard or opening too wide thus saving the ribbon connections. The iFixIt heat tool worked better than a hairdryer.

lovemymac -

hat geklappt, danke für die Anleitung!

LG Andreas von studi kompass

Andreas Baumann - Reply

Hello. Do you ship this battery replacement kit overseas? I`m from the philippines.

pamiho - Reply

Completed. This is now the second 7 that I have successfully replaced the battery on.

Kevin McNamara - Reply

I have to agree with some of the other comments - the re-assembly instructions might have helped!!! Instead of having to switch between guides to figure out how and when to apply the screen adhesive. I successfully dismantled the iPhone, replaced the battery, got through the majority of the re-assembly, realised the instructions hadn’t included the screen adhesive, searched for the instructions, then re-disconnect the screen AGAIN, apply the screen adhesive, re-assemble the iPhone completely this time, only to find I’d broken the display at some point!!!

Andy Pounder - Reply

Perfect install. Now phone is dead.

eddyfreemail - Reply

I missed the “forced restart” after reassembly. That created some angst for me wondering where the trusty white Apple logo was hiding. I reread the notes and found the forced restart. All is good. Super nice tutorial. Many thanks,

Travis Witherington - Reply

I’ve made it, after all. How dare you not saying that one need new adhesive strips and sealing AT THE BEGINNING of this instruction or OFFER IT IN THE INTRODUCTION as all the other stuff, I’ve asked!!!

Axel Moering - Reply

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