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If your iPhone 11 screen is cracked, not responding to touch, or not showing a picture when powered on, use this guide to get your iPhone working again with a new screen assembly.
This guide is written for replacement screen assemblies with the metal LCD shield plate pre-installed. If your new screen does not include the plate, follow this guide instead to complete your repair.
The combined earpiece speaker + sensor assembly affixed to the back of the screen is paired to your individual iPhone at the factory, so you must transfer it carefully from your old screen to your new one using the instructions below. It contains the flood illuminator, which is part of the biometric Face ID security feature. If it is damaged or replaced, Face ID won’t work, so take extra care not to damage any of these components during this procedure. If damaged, only Apple’s “authorized” technicians can restore Face ID function.
Note: True Tone functionality won’t work after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen.
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?
Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?
I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.
what fix kit?
My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either
Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.
My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary
It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.
No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?
Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.
For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you
Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!
Will the phone still work if the sensor assembly on the back of the screen is damaged?
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
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If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
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Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
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Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
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Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
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Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
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Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
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Skip the next three steps.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
Any suggestions if the screen is broken and the anti-clamp just separates the screen from the bezel?
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute.
어짜피 못쓰고 버릴 거라면, 이것보다 인두기를 직접 대는 방식을 추천 합니다. 어짜피 유리라 연기나 반응도 없고 무엇보다 금방 열기가 올라와요.
Gut gehen auch Kirschkernsäckchen. Damit hatte ich Erfolg!
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If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
This turned out to be the most difficult part for me. My old ifixit suction cup didn't suck hard enough to generate enough force to pry the display from the case. I ended up applying heat at least a dozen times, and I had to pull up on the suction cup forcefully over and over and over while repositioning it several times. I finally had success inserting my pick into the tiny gap after 30 or so rapid tugs on the suction cup.
I pulled the screen by accident instead of the bottom layer, now what?
I have the same question
After heating (I used a hair dryer for 4-5 mins, moving around whole frame, to make sure was pretty hot, then let sit for 1 minute), insert a razor blade between the bezel and the frame, at the bottom edge. Lever upwards, the screen will easily pull away. You won’t even need the suction cup.
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Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
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Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Instructions are confusing as the last step says not to insert at certain points, while this says to slide all the way up the right side - is it that sliding is ok but inserting isn't (whatever that might mean) or just not more than 3mm?
Just slide slightly and the display will rise without problems on all iPhone models, sometimes if I have long nails I even insert a fingernail and lift the display.
Tonynox -
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Gently pull the right edge of the display down slightly (in the direction of the Lightning port).
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Insert your pick into the top-right corner of the phone.
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Continue pulling the display down (toward the Lightning port) as needed in order to make a gap large enough for the pick.
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Slide the pick to the top left corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.
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Pull the small nub on the suction cup to detach it from the front panel.
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Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
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Prop the display up against something sturdy.
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To access the screws in the following step, tilt the display by slightly lifting its lower edge.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Use a Y000 driver to remove the three 1.1 mm-long screws securing the battery connector bracket.
During reassembly, I had to connect my phone to the charger before it would power up.
Die Schrauben sind wahnsinnig kurz, tatsächlich winzig klein. Nach dem Herausdrehen könnte es im ersten Moment so aussehen, als habe man die Schrauben ausgebohrt anstatt herauszudrehen, sie sind jedoch sehr schnell gelöst und liegen dann entweder im Gehäuse oder sind neben dem Gehäuse herausgefallen. In jedem Fall sollten sie nie auf den Boden fallen, da sie dann kaum mehr auffindbar wären.
I got to this point thinking/hoping I could eek by with a Y1 orY0 or even a PH000 driver but no such luck. The Y000 is in fact necessary. Finishing this repair will have to wait for now.
ALSO thanks Apple, there is ABSOLUTELY no reason AT. ALL. to use so many random, oddball screw heads, BUT to make self repairs more difficult and expensive. A real F-U to the consumer!
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Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally contacting the socket.
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Use a Y000 driver to remove the five 1.1 mm screws securing the logic board cover bracket.
Die Schrauben sind wahnsinnig kurz, tatsächlich winzig klein. Nach dem Herausdrehen könnte es im ersten Moment so aussehen, als habe man die Schrauben ausgebohrt anstatt herauszudrehen, sie sind jedoch sehr schnell gelöst und liegen dann entweder im Gehäuse oder sind neben dem Gehäuse herausgefallen. In jedem Fall sollten sie nie auf den Boden fallen, da sie dann kaum mehr auffindbar wären.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the LCD panel cable connector.
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Disconnect the digitizer connector next to it.
Be mindful when reconnecting LCD panel connector and digitizer connector. It’s looks very similar. These 2 ribbon connectors a slightly different.
Pay attention.
내 아이폰이 디스플레이 분리 단계를 거친 후, 전원이 들어오지 않습니다. 층전기를 꽂아도 배터리에 미세한 전기 반응이 느껴지지 않고, 탭틱 엔진도 작동하지 않게 되었습니다. cpu 온도는 여전히 뜨껍습니다. 내 마더보드가 디스플레이 분리 후 갑자기 고장난건가요?
Hast Du das Problem gelöst?
커넥터 핀을 빼거나 다시 넣기 위해 구부러졌을 수 있습니다. 핀이 구부러진 경우 돋보기 등으로 살펴보고, 그렇다면 적절한 매장에 가져가세요.
Hampter -
Hier war mein Problem schon gelöst. Durch einen Sturz hat sich der Touchscreen Stecker gelöst. Wieder eingesteckt funktionierte die Touch-Eingabe wieder.
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Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.
There needs to be an extra step between 24 and 25 for reassembly, telling folks to apply adhesive here. I got the thing almost all the way put back together before realizing that the adhesive was a single piece that needs the cables to be disconnected in order to apply it.
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Remove the display assembly.
After this step its probably a good idea to test the new screen (you dont have to plug in the front camera assembly)
Not a technician, so correct me if I'm wrong: I think that it's at this step of reassembly (before you reattach the screen) that you apply waterproof glue, if you have it.
You are both correct. Testing the screen before putting on adhesive means the screen can be returned if faulty. Many places will not accept a screen return that has adhesive on it.
So if it works apply adhesive at this point. When testing don’t just rely on Apple logo test touch functionality also .
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Remove four screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly:
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Three 1.6 mm Phillips screws
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One 1.3 mm Y000 screw
Correct me if I am wrong but you no longer need to do this as of IOS 15.2 as apple doesnt disable Face ID on 3rd party repairs
For red screw use 000 Phillips screw
Bonjour, je n'arriva pas à retirer les trois vis cruciformes. vous aurez une astuce ?
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Use the point of a spudger to gently pry up the top edge of the speaker.
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Flip the speaker assembly over—down and away from the top edge of the display.
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for 1-2 minutes, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.
Sometimes this won't be sufficient for the glue to melt. I ripped the ambient cable twice trying to remove it from the greenish plastic piece (the one with two round holes on the two sides). Here's a less risky procedure: take off the plastic piece together with the rest of the speaker + front sensors, as a block. Then when reassembling, remove the plastic piece from the new screen, and apply the whole block instead.
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Carefully slide the edge of your opening pick underneath the flex cable below the microphone.
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Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable.
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If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel.
This step was a little bit confusing. I thought that the entire ribbon assm should be removed once the speaker was detached. The entire assm doesn’t actually come off until Step 30.
Be careful in the next few steps, as you can easily damage some parts. Make sure that you operate gently, and that you don't pull, twist or apply too much pressure on the components.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers to slide the small bracket straight up and off of the ambient light sensor.
As you remove it, familiarise with its position. It will be hard to put it back into place. If you pay close attention to how it comes out, it will be easier to put it back
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Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display.
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Working left to right, slide an opening pick beneath the flex cable and underneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module.
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Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from its notch in the front panel.
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Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.
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Proximity sensor
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Flood illuminator
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The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.
Also, your iPhone 11 will now display a notification that the screen on it is not original.
Also if I‘m using an original Display? Will coping screen data with iCopy help? Or is there any other solution to get rid of this?
Katrin -
How about LCD shield plate removal instructions?
Right here. Hope it helps!
When I reinstall this assembly on the new (ifixit) screen, once all the sensors are in their holes and you fold the speaker back over, the screw holes don't line up, OR the speaker doesn't fit snugly. You can move the speaker so its no longer snug, and the screw holes line up. Is there a trick to this?
My replacement screen didn't come with the transparent plastic bits surrounding the front camera, infrared and earpiece speaker... I wonder what would have turned up if I didn't purchase the " original" version in that dodgy shop... lol. If this is your case, you need to clean the glass off this piece of plastic and metal, try not to damage the earpiece protection included on top of that piece, and go back to that shop for a good argument! Got some pics if needed.
Correction: I finally got rid of the earpiece protection because I hadn't noticed that was included in the replacement screen, although of much lower quality than the "real" original.
In addition: be veeeeeery gentle on the heat gun, I accidentally melted a bit of the plastic in the "plastic and metal piece"... Made the ambient light sensor fit kinda loose. :/
Thanks a lot ! My son's iphone is reborned, and I'm upskilled !
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To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or search our iPhone 11 Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or search our iPhone 11 Answers community for help.
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Zu Schritt 13:
Was kann ich tun wenn die Metallplatte sich nicht aus dem Gehäuse löst?
Versuchen Sie, das Telefon beim zweiten Mal dort erneut aufzuwärmen, wo es in der Anleitung angegeben ist. Vielleicht versuchen Sie auch, Ihren iOpener für längere Zeit in der Mikrowelle zu erhitzen/zu erhitzen. Wenn das nicht funktioniert, überprüfen Sie, ob keine weiteren Schrauben entfernt werden müssen. Und das Letzte, was Sie versuchen könnten, wäre, ein paar andere Hebelwerkzeuge zu verwenden und/oder zu versuchen, es in einer anderen Richtung aus dem Gehäuse zu bekommen.
During reassembly, is there a step in which I need to apply adhesive? (asking since you find adhesive as you disassemble)
Most often you will re-apply the adhesive to the new LCD assembly itself. Note that the part you will need is designed to provide waterproofing to the device. If you put the adhesive + waterproof seal onto the new LCD incorrectly then the device will not be waterproof. Note: I'm no qualified professional, and I'm only a 9th grader but I have lots of experience with this particular repair and I have almost mastered it.( I have fixed maybe 7 or 8 iPhone 11s alone) And in my experience, applying the new adhesive + seal to the new LCD assembly has always worked out great and resulted in a happy customer and good feedback.
I had the same problem, I had ordered a display plus adhesive here at iFixit shop, but there were no instruction how to attach it. I looked at manuals of other adhesives and found a proper way, that worked for me: Before reattaching the display cables I attached the adhesive on the phone, not on the display. At first you have to remove all old adhesive properly, if you have isopropanol you can use it to clean the frame. Then you remove the protective sheet (the side with the tab) from the new adhersive, place it carefully on the phone and press it with a spudger all around the frame. The protective sheet on this side is made of different parts so you can remove them on parts where you have to work on. Then you can attach the display cables and the battery cable and test if it works. If all works fine you can remove the last protective sheets and go on to attach the whole display unit.
SiRo -
flawless execution!
Will I still be able to use face id
Is there a difference between the US/World/Chinese model of iPhone 11 and this repair?
Hey thank you for this guide, I just followed it and didn't kill my phone! The level of detail is super appreciated.
the right screws wouldn’t come off
Yusef San Inocencio - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
ok one came of but my right wont come of either!!!!
Aisa Jawara -
Hello guys, I still haven't found away to power off the iphone without using the screen. Cheers!
danielaguirre93 - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
You can try this.
Quickly Press and release the volume up button.
then Quickly Press and release the volume down button.
then press and hold the power button and wait until it turns off.
worked for me :D
Benóný Egilson - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
Where does one get replacement seals? Is this the same as the display assembly adhesive?
Brian Baker - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
not of the screwdrivers i have seem to be able to turn the screws
Aisa Jawara - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
how do you change battery of an iPhone 11 and still the battery health shows, do you use a software for that?
Great Me - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
Battery health won’t show on a non Apple battery.
DON’T forget to discharge old battery before removing it. Very impressive fire (and smoke!) if you puncture it. Ask me how I know
Doug Harrowing - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0