crwdns2915892:0crwdne2915892:0
Follow this guide to replace the screen on your iPad Pro 11" 2nd gen.
If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
The LiDAR sensor assembly attached to the screen is paired with the Face ID hardware. You'll need to transfer it to your new screen to keep Face ID functionality.
Some photos show the battery connector blocked with two card strips. While this is an optional method, it's more reliable to fully discharge the battery. Ignore this visual discrepancy as you work through the guide.
crwdns2942213:0crwdne2942213:0
-
-
Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.
-
-
-
Camera module, ambient light sensors, proximity senor, and front microphone
-
Display cables
-
Screen magnets
-
LCD edges
-
-
-
Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
-
-
crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
-
Pull the blue handle backward to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
-
Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
-
Position the suction cups near the middle of the right edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
-
Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
-
-
-
Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
-
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
-
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
-
-
-
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
-
If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the right edge of the iPad.
-
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
-
Skip the next step.
-
-
-
Apply a suction handle to the right edge of the display, about 5 cm from the bottom edge.
-
Pull up on the suction handle with firm, constant pressure to create a gap just small enough to insert an opening pick.
-
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
-
-
-
Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
-
Slide the pick along the right edge to separate the adhesive.
-
Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
-
-
-
Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.
-
-
-
Don't insert an opening pick more than 2 mm near the top left and right edges or you'll damage the ambient light sensors.
-
Don't insert an opening pick more than 1 mm near the middle of the top edge or you'll damage the camera module, proximity sensor, and front microphone.
-
-
-
Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
-
Slide the pick along the top right edge, stopping when you reach the right ambient light sensor.
-
Leave the pick to the right of the sensor to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
-
-
-
Insert a new opening pick to the right of the ambient light sensor.
-
Slide the pick along the middle section of the top, stopping when you reach the left ambient light sensor.
-
Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
-
-
-
Insert a new opening pick to the left of the ambient light sensor.
-
Slide the pick along the top left edge, stopping when you reach the left ambient light sensor.
-
Once the top edge adhesive has been separated, you can remove the two picks near the ambient light sensors.
-
-
-
Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.
-
-
-
Insert a new opening pick in the bottom right corner below the existing pick.
-
Slide the pick around the bottom right corner to separate the adhesive.
-
-
-
Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge, stopping at the USB-C port.
-
Leave the pick in to prevent the bottom edge adhesive from re-sealing.
-
-
-
-
Insert a new opening pick to the left of the USB-C port.
-
Separate the remaining bottom edgeadhesive.
-
Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the bottom edge adhesive from re-sealing.
-
-
-
Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
-
-
-
The display cables are located within small indents of the frame and require an opening pick to be inserted at a 45° angle.
-
There are flat sections of the frame which require an opening pick to be inserted horizontally.
-
-
-
Insert an opening pick at a 45˚ angle just above the bottom left corner.
-
Carefully slide the pick along the left edge, stopping when you reach the flat section of the frame.
-
-
-
Lower the opening pick so it is horizontal to the display.
-
Continue separating the left edge adhesive until you reach the next indented section of the frame.
-
-
-
Separate the remaining adhesive, making sure to follow the instructions exactly as written.
-
Slide the pick at a 45˚ downward angle and don't insert the pick more than 5 mm.
-
Slide the pick horizontally and don't insert the pick more than 5 mm.
-
-
-
Grab two opposing corners of the screen and gently separate the rest of the adhesive.
-
Shift the screen towards the bottom right corner of the frame until the ambient light sensor ribbon cable near the top edge is uncovered.
-
-
crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0FixMat$36.95
-
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the ambient light sensor cable bracket to the logic board:
-
One 1.3 mm screw
-
One 2.0 mm screw
-
-
crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tweezers$4.99
-
Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the bracket.
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the ambient light sensor cable by lifting straight up on the press connectors.
-
-
-
Grip the right edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.
-
Lay the screen down over the left edge of the iPad.
-
-
-
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.2 mm screws securing the lower cable shield to the logic board.
-
-
crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tweezers$4.99
-
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the lower cable shield.
-
-
-
Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the top two display cables.
-
-
-
Disconnect the two remaining display cables.
-
-
-
Grip the right edge of the screen and lift it away.
-
-
-
The LiDAR sensor assembly is composed of four total sensors:
-
Two ambient light sensors
-
One proximity sensor
-
One microphone
-
-
-
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top of the screen for two minutes.
-
-
crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tweezers$3.99
-
Insert one arm of your angled tweezers between the ambient light sensor and the screen.
-
Pry up to separate the sensor from the screen.
-
Repeat this procedure for the other ambient light sensor.
-
-
-
Insert one arm of your angled tweezers between the proximity sensor cable and the screen.
-
Slide the tweezers toward the screen while prying to separate the sensor from the screen.
-
-
-
Peel off any tape covering the microphone.
-
-
-
Slide an opening tool under the microphone to separate its adhesive.
-
Pry up to separate the microphone from the screen.
-
-
-
Slide an opening pick under the LiDAR sensor assembly cable to separate it from the screen.
-
-
-
Continue sliding your opening pick under the LiDAR sensor assembly until it's completely separated from the screen.
-
Remove the LiDAR sensor assembly.
-
-
crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tesa 61395 Tape$5.99
-
Align the LiDAR sensor assembly on your replacement screen.
-
Use Tesa tape, or similar double-sided tape, to secure the cables to the screen.
-
Use E6000 adhesive, or similar adhesive, to secure the sensors to their cutouts on the screen.
-
-
-
The display cable connectors are located under a bracket near the bottom right corner of the screen.
-
-
-
Slide an opening pick under the non-removable display cable to loosen it from the bracket.
-
-
-
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 1.2 mm screws securing the display cable bracket.
-
-
-
Remove the display cable bracket.
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the narrow display cable.
-
Remove the narrow display cable. Set it aside for reassembly.
-
-
-
Disconnect and remove the wide display cable. Set it aside for reassembly.
-
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Pro 11" 2nd Gen answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Pro 11" 2nd Gen answers community for help.
crwdns2935221:0crwdne2935221:0
crwdns2935229:011crwdne2935229:0
crwdns2915084:0crwdne2915084:0
Guide Team crwdns2935289:0Guide Teamcrwdne2935289:0
Staff
crwdns2931471:09crwdne2931471:0
crwdns2935297:011.555crwdne2935297:0
crwdns2947412:02crwdne2947412:0
Works like a dream! Thank you so much for these precise instructions! The LiDAR, camera, and Face ID are all working again like new! A repairman refused to fix my iPad, even for €400, and the Apple Store told me face-to-face that the 2020 iPad Pro is ‘garbage-vintage’ and I should just buy a new one. Thank you, iFixit.com community, and all the best! Avanti, amici!
I think this guide leaves me a little short changed. I find it unlikely that it is possible to remove the LIDAR assembly according to this guide without damaging it beyond re-use. Also the remounting of the LIDAR assembly could improve with some more guidance.
