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Follow this guide to replace the battery in your iPad Air 5th Generation.
If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the guide procedure.
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Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Camera module and ambient light sensors
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Display cables
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Screen magnets
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Display edges
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
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Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
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Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
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Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
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Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next step.
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Apply a suction handle to the top left edge of the screen.
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Pull up on the suction handle with firm, constant pressure to create a gap just small enough to insert an opening pick.
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Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
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Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
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Slide the opening pick along the left edge to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Insert a new opening pick in the bottom left corner.
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Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Insert a new opening pick in the bottom right corner and slide along the right edge to separate the adhesive. Make sure to note the following marked areas:
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 2 mm or you'll damage the screen magnets.
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display and digitizer cables.
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
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Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Insert a new opening pick in the top right corner and slide along the top edge to separate the adhesive. Make sure to note the following:
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the ambient light sensors.
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 2 mm or you'll damage the front camera module.
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Leave the pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Grip the left edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0FixMat$36.95
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.8 mm screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
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Cut two 6 mm wide strips from a playing card or cardstock to use as a battery blocker.
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Insert the card strips on each side of the battery connector until they stop.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the display and digitizer cable brackets to the logic board:
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Two 1.1 mm screws
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One 1.5 mm screw
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers or your fingers to pivot the latch out from the top and remove the bracket.
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Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the digitizer cable bracket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two display cables by lifting straight up on the press connectors.
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Repeat the previous step for the digitizer cable.
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Grip the left edge of the screen and lift it away.
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Four stretch-release adhesive strips secure the battery cells to the frame. Each adhesive strip has a black pull tab along the left edge of the battery.
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The remaining adhesive secures the battery board to the right side of the frame.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tweezers$4.99
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Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to peel each stretch-release pull tab away from the battery.
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Slowly pull the strips straight away from the battery, keeping a low angle to the frame.
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Give the strips plenty of time to stretch. If a strip breaks off, try to retrieve it and continue pulling.
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If you removed all four stretch-release adhesive strips, skip down five steps.
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If any strips broke off, follow the next four steps for an alternative method to remove the battery.
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Apply several drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to the left edge of each battery cell.
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Elevate the left edge of the iPad to allow the alcohol to flow under the battery cells.
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Wait one minute for the alcohol to soften the adhesive.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Plastic Cards$2.99
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Slide a plastic card under the left edge of the upper battery cell near any broken strips of stretch-release adhesive.
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Reinsert your plastic card under the long edge of the battery cell to slice the remaining adhesive.
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Twist the plastic card to lift the short edge of the battery cell from the frame.
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Insert your plastic card under the short edge of the lower battery cell to slice the adhesive.
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Insert the plastic card again under the long edge of the lower battery cell to slice the remaining adhesive.
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Twist your plastic card to lift the short edge of the battery cell from the frame.
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Lift the battery cells away from the frame to gain access to the left edge of the battery board.
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Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol under the left edge of the battery board.
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Elevate the left edge of the iPad and wait one minute to allow the alcohol to soften the adhesive.
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Insert an opening pick under the upper edge of the battery board.
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After creating a gap between the battery board and the frame, remove the pick.
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Insert your plastic card between the upper edge of the battery board and the frame, using the gap created by your opening pick.
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Fully slide the plastic card under the battery board to separate the upper edge from the frame.
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Insert your opening pick under the lower edge of the battery board.
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Once you've created a gap between the battery board and the frame, remove the pick.
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Slide your plastic card under the battery board to separate it from the frame.
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Grab and pull the battery cells away from the logic board until the connector slides out from under the card strips.
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Remove the battery.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tesa 61395 Tape$5.99
Compare your new replacement battery to the original one—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new battery before installing it.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Air 5th Generation answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement battery to the original one—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new battery before installing it.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Air 5th Generation answers community for help.
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Is it possible to build a battery from an iPad Air 4 in the iPad Air 5? The battery's have the same specifications and the connector looks pretty similar.
Hi Technozoom! I don't recommend salvaging an old iPad Air 4 battery, as used batteries can catch fire or heat up unpredictably, especially coming from an iPad, where the batteries are fragile and difficult to remove. That said, we just tested an Air 4 battery in an Air 5, and can confirm it works. So, if you have a new or like-new battery, you can perform the repair with a 4th generation battery. Good luck!