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Follow this guide to remove or replace the battery in your iPad Air 4.
If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
This guide is written with an A2324 (cellular + mmWave) model iPad Air. If you're fixing a Wi-Fi model, you can still use this guide—there will be some visual discrepancies, and you'll need to skip the steps related to the cellular antennas.
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Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Camera module and ambient light sensors
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Display cables
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Screen magnets
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Display edges
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
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Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
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Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
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Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
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Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next step.
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Apply a suction handle to the top left edge of the screen.
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Pull up on the suction handle with firm, constant pressure to create a gap just small enough to insert an opening pick.
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Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
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Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
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Slide the opening pick along the left edge to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Insert a new opening pick in the bottom left corner.
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Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Insert a new opening pick in the bottom right corner and slide along the right edge to separate the adhesive. Make sure to note the following marked areas:
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 2 mm or you'll damage the screen magnets.
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display and digitizer cables.
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
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Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Insert a new opening pick in the top right corner and slide along the top edge to separate the adhesive. Make sure to note the following:
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the ambient light sensors.
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 2 mm or you'll damage the front camera module.
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Leave the pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Grip the left edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.8 mm screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
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Cut two 6 mm wide strips from a playing card or cardstock to use as a battery blocker.
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Insert the card strips on each side of the battery connector until they stop.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the display and digitizer cable brackets to the logic board:
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Two 1.1 mm screws
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One 1.5 mm screw
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Use tweezers or your fingers to pivot the latch out from the top and remove the bracket.
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Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the digitizer cable bracket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two display cables by lifting straight up on the press connectors.
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Repeat the previous step for the digitizer cable.
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Grip the left edge of the screen and lift it away.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the bottom speaker cable by prying straight up on the rear of the connector.
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Use tweezers to remove the tape covering the SIM card reader ZIF connector.
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Use tweezers or a spudger to lift up the latch on the SIM card reader ZIF connector.
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Use tweezers to pull the SIM card reader cable from its socket.
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Repeat the previous two steps to disconnect the bottom right cellular antenna interconnect cable.
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Use tweezers or your fingers to peel the bottom right cellular antenna interconnect cable to the edge of the frame.
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Three under each battery cell
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Two under the battery boards
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Prop the left side of the iPad up so the isopropyl alcohol can flow under the battery.
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Apply a few drops of high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol along the left edge of the battery.
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Let the alcohol soak for one minute to soften the adhesive under the battery.
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Lay the iPad down flat on your work surface.
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Insert a plastic card under the left side of the lower battery cell to separate the adhesive securing it to the frame.
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Leave the plastic card in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the plastic card for additional leverage.
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Pry against the card to separate the remaining adhesive.
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Repeat the previous two steps for the upper battery cell.
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Lay your iPad screen side down on a clean surface.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the back of the iPad about 4 cm from the right edge.
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Let the iOpener soften the adhesive for two minutes.
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Lay the iPad screen side up.
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Slide the flat end of a spudger under the cellular wireless connector until the logic board lifts and the battery blocker card strips are loose.
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Leave the spudger in to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Lift the left edge of the battery cells.
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Apply a few drops of high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to the battery boards which sit along the right edge of the battery cells.
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Slide an opening pick under the battery board to separate the adhesive securing it to the frame.
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Remove the battery blocker card strips.
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Lift the battery up and away from the frame so its connector clears the standoff post.
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Lift both halves of the battery out of the iPad at the same time.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Air 4 answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Air 4 answers community for help.
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