Hand Sewing Stitches

Running stitch is the most basic hand sewing stitch, often used for basting. While it is not used in many repairs, it is useful for beginners to practice maneuvering the needle and thread through the fabric.

Structure: Classic running stitch has equally-sized straight stitches spaced at regular intervals.

Repair Use: This stitch is not used in repairs because (1) the stitches are not locked in place so the fabric can move around the thread and (2) it can snap if pulled or tugged along the stitch line.

Backstitch is the strongest of the hand sewing stitches.

Structure: This technique forms a solid line of stitches on the front of the fabric by taking a double length stitch on the backside.

Repair Use: The backstitch is commonly used in hand sewn repairs as a substitute for machine stitching. Its looping structure provides strength, stability, and slight elasticity when pulled.

Related Tutorial: Backstitch on a Loose Hem

Structure: The whip stitch is a simple looping stitch that creates a spiral of thread.

Repair Use: This stretch stitch is highly versatile and can be used to seal a tear, bind a raw fabric edge, or attach a patch. When placed close together, whip stitches can also bind an opening to create a buttonhole or decorative eyelet.

Related Tutorials: Whip Stitch on a Tear, Whip Stitch on a Patch

Structure: A blanket stitch is composed of a series of loops that are anchored by the neighboring stitch to create an L shape.

Repair Use: These non-stretch stitches can be used to reinforce hems or to sew down the edges of a patch. They are great for stable binding because they create a continuous stitch that runs along the edge of the fabric.

The name "blanket" stitch comes from its traditional use to secure the edges of blankets.

Related Tutorial: Blanket Stitch on a Patch

Structure: The herringbone stitch consists of a series of alternating slanted stitches, creating a crosshatch pattern.

Repair Use: This stitch provides excellent stretch, making it ideal for knit and stretch fabrics. It is effective when fabric edges touch or slightly overlap, making it a strong choice for repairing damaged coverstitch seams.

Related Tutorial: Herringbone Stitch on a Split Seam

Structure: Baseball stitch gets its name Baseball Stitch from the seams of a baseball!

Repair Use: Baseball stitch is perfect for closing a slit or tear in the middle of the fabric when there has been minimal fraying or fabric loss because it effectively pulls the sides back together like a lacing when pulled tight

Also referred to as fishbone stitch when the angle is sharper, flat stitch is a decorative embroidery stitch.

Structure: Similar to herringbone, flat stitch is composed of a series of crossing slanted stitches.

Repair Use: With the stitches packed close together, this technique can be used as decorative repair to cover a small hole. By changing the stitch lengths, you can create different shapes such as leaves and hearts. Sketch the shape you want to create onto the fabric beforehand in chalk or heat-erasable pen.

Many stitches can be used for multiple purposes and many repairs require multiple stitch types. Use your knowledge to find a combination of stitches and techniques that best suits the issue, the item, and your personal preference.
Some examples:

Situation: A slit in the thigh of a pair of Quandary pants. Used for hiking and fun outdoors so durability is key.

Possible Solution: Seal the tear with a baseball stitch. Sew a patch over the top of the tear using a blanket stitch around the edge.

Situation: Burn hole in a Better Sweater®. You are excited about decorative repair.

Possible Solution: Sew tightly packed whip stitches around the hole to create an eyelet. Flat stitch a few petal shapes in different colors around the eyelet to create a flower.

Many hand sewn repairs will replace missing or damaged machine stitches. Identifying the original stitch and its qualities will help you pick the best hand sewn stitch to replace it with.