crwdns2915892:0crwdne2915892:0
Use this guide to remove and replace the rear cameras in the iPhone XS. The rear camera assembly consists of two individual modules: one wide-angle camera and one telephoto camera. Both modules are replaced as a single unit.
Both iPhone XS and XS Max use the same camera; the part can be swapped freely between the two models.
Note: This guide instructs you to completely detach the display cables and remove the display assembly in order to better access the rear cameras—however, it's possible to remove and replace the rear cameras with the display cables still connected. Advanced readers may skip disconnecting the display in order to save time, as long as the display is properly supported and the display cables are not damaged.
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?
Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?
I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.
what fix kit?
My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either
Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.
My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
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If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
The anti clamp is a much needed tool
It makes opening the phone a breeze.
Lon
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Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
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Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
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Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
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Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
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Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
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Skip the next three steps.
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
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If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
It seems like I need a third hand to do this. To hold the phone; hold the suction cup; and push the pick in the space.
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Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
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Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
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Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.
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Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.
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Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
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Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
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Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
Open from the LEFT. Photo confused me and I came very close to damaging my phone by opening from the wrong side.
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Remove five screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:
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Three 1.0 mm Y000 screws
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One 1.3 mm Y000 screw
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One 3.7 mm Phillips screw
The ribbon makes the 1.3 mm screw a little tricky. Use one hand to hold the display at a 90 degree or smaller angle to create the slack necessary to get the screw driver in place.
I tracked my screws by using my kids fridge magnets to hold each screw size and placing a piece of masking tape below with the screw size.
I stripped a screw ugh
Where can i buy a One 1.3 mm Y000 screw
FYI: I used a tiny piece of scotch tape to hold those 1mm screws in place while aligning the magnetic screwdriver. Otherwise they are so tiny the magnetic bit pulls them right out the hole.
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Remove the bracket.
During reassembly, pause here to check function. Gently reattach the top of the display to the base to test face ID.
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Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to pry up and disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.
In my phone the connector made poor contact with the socket resulting in no sound audible through the phone receiver/headset. There was an overhang of insulation close to the socket which I believe may have prevented a good connection. So if you have these kinds of audio problems you might see if this is the problem.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
Shine a bright light here to help you align the connector. Eventually, the right side snapped in first.
On reassembly, use the pad of your fingertip to reconnect.
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Use a spudger or fingernail to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.
Reassembly: reconnecting the press connectors upon reassembly was so hard, even for the ones not seated in a recessed location !! It took me two days to get them reconnected. What helped me was to shine bright lights on all sides of the iPhone and then hold the iPhone vertically like a book and press it in that way. They are now all in, but the touchscreen functionality has disappeared :( so I will need to reconnect that one.
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Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.
Will replacing camera and sensors fix damaged face I'd
No, FaceID will be disabled because the original sensors are paired with the logic board.
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Remove the display assembly.
I wish the reassembly directions were separate. I forgot to pause here to do the waterproof seal.
Geez, I blazed right past that small line to replace the waterproof seal. Needs to be called out much larger.
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Remove the two screws securing the rear camera cover:
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One 1.4 mm Y000 screw
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One 2.0 mm Phillips screw
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Lift the camera cover from the edge closest to the battery, and remove it.
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Use an iFixit opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the two camera cable connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets.
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Insert both tips of your tweezers or a pointed pry tool at the bottom right corner of the camera, between the camera assembly and the iPhone's frame.
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Gently pry up to lever the camera out of the iPhone.
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Remove the rear-facing camera assembly.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
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I have some dark spots on my main camera and i notice some dust behind the lens cover, do you think it as to do with it?
Thank you
Der Original Akku ist codiert. Egal, ob man einen zweiten Apple Original Akku oder einen neuen Fremdakku einbaut erscheint bereits in den Einstellungen eine "Wichtige Batterienachricht" mit einem roten Punkt. "Unbekanntes Bauteil" und die "Informationen zum Batteriezustand" sind nicht verfügbar. Diese Nachricht verbleibt immer und nervt auf Dauer immens.
Der Akku muss angelernt werden und dieses können von jetzt an nur authorisierte Apple Servicebetriebe und diesen ist es durch Apple verboten die notwendige Info weiterzugeben.
Dies ist nicht zu verwechseln mit der bereits bekannten Rekalibrierung seit iOS 14.5.
Seit dieser neuen Codierung kostet der Akkutausch bei Apple auch nicht mehr 75 € sondern aktuell 99 € (Stand Novmber 2023 in Deutschland).
Damit sind künftig alle nicht authorisierten Servicebetriebe raus - denn wer will schon dauernd diese Mitteilung auf dem Bildschirm haben?
Überlegt vorher, ob unter diesen Bedingungen ein eigener Akkutausch noch sinnvoll ist .....
Manfred Wachtel - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
Lieben Dank @manfredwachtel ! Mehr Infos dazu haben wir auch in unserem Blog zusammengefasst: https://de.ifixit.com/News/78890/teileko...
Sandra Hiller -