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The Taptic Engine produces your iPhone's vibration and haptic feedback functions. Follow this guide to remove and/or replace the Taptic Engine in an iPhone XR.

This guide instructs you to fully remove the display assembly; this is intended to prevent accidental strain or damage to the display cables while you work. If you feel comfortable removing the Taptic Engine without endangering the display cables, you can skip the steps for disconnecting the display cables.

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured. Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    • There's a black rubber gasket just beneath the head on each pentalobe screw. For maximum protection against dust and liquid, check the condition of the gaskets or replace the screws during reassembly.

    One of my gaskets was as shown in your second photo, the other had been worked into the threads (as if smeared) probably from the factory and was completely unusable.

    In place of replacements (unsure of where to purchase) I just used a clear silicone caulking on both screws upon reassembly to offer at least some water seal. I wish these gaskets were included with the gasket waterproofing sealant kit!

    Erica - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or heat gun, or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    An alternative to the Iopener or heat gun is to heat water to EXACTLY 80 degrees F (cooking thermometer is great for this) and pour into a reinforced ziplock type bag. Leave the bag on the screen, but be sure that none of the hot water rests on the zipper portion, as the water is hot enough to soften that seal and leak out on to your device! This meat had is my personal favorite as the heat is distributed very equally and precisely as compared to a heat gun, but is more accessible than the Iopener.

    Colin Wylie - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  3. The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method. If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone XR.
    • The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method.

    • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone XR.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Press both suction cups firmly into place.

    • If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may help the suction cups adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

  4. Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone. Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need. Insert an opening pick into the gap under the display on the lower edge of the iPhone.
    • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.

    • Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap under the display on the lower edge of the iPhone.

    • Skip the next two steps and continue to step 8.

  5. If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass. If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
    • If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

  6. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert an opening pick into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

  7. Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place. Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components. Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.
    • Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

  8. Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.
    • Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

  9. The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips. Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port. The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.
    • The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.

    • Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.

    • The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.

    • Again, don't insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.

    • Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

  10. Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    • If you used an iSclack and it's still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

  11. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board. Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

    • Remove three 1.2 mm Y000 screws securing the battery connector cover bracket.

    • Remove the bracket.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

    • During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

    Definitely make sure all three lobes of your tool are aligned before use (it’s a little harder to tell with this style of bit) and apply even and adequate pressure to ensure it grabs as you spin the driver to prevent disfiguring the lobes/slot of the screw head.

    Unfortunately my Y000 tool was perhaps not the best fit (tolerance a bit off) in these screws and I ended up stripping out the heads of all three of these. I started to panic but after I sanded the tip of my Y000 bit down a little with super fine grit (1000CW-C) sand paper to flatten the domed tip (visible with macro lens) and give it a bit more bite I was able to remove and reinstall without issue—in fact I had to remove and install them twice since I forgot my adhesive tape during reassembly, so the screws survived and the sanded bit worked.

    Erica - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    +1 to above comment. I bought a cheap kit from Amazon and the Y000 screw driver is not good for this job. I’m concerned that I may have disfigured the heads and i type this comment in the midst of my fix :D Be gentle and assess if you can remove at least one screw with your driver before rummaging through all three and other similar screws holding display connector as well.

    Shan Potti - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Update to above comment. I got hold of a Y0.8 screw driver bit (lucky to find an ORIA screw driver kit in my office) and it works like wonders :) Now back to work…

    Shan Potti - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  12. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket. Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket.

    • Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

    • Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

  13. Remove the two 1.2 mm Y000 screws securing the display connector bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the two 1.2 mm Y000 screws securing the display connector bracket.

    • Remove the bracket.

  14. Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the digitizer cable. To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the digitizer cable.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

  15. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the display cable connector. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the display cable connector.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the display cable connector.

    The new display cable isn’t snapping in but I was just able to snap in the old one. Did I break the new one somehow?

    Andrew Pierson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Same it is really frustrating, just keeps slipping up and its bound to get damaged

    Daniel Maldonado - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  16. Remove the five screws securing the logic board connector bracket to the rear case: One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw
    • Remove the five screws securing the logic board connector bracket to the rear case:

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • Three 1.2 mm Y000 screws

    • Remove the bracket.

    • Be careful not to lose the smaller bracket clipped onto the edge. It's secured with a small clip and is easy to accidentally knock off of the larger bracket.

    Phillips screw 1.3 mm on last step is not working. The small clipped bracket has been damaged. This screw perhaps should be the first, before 1.2 Y000. - To be confirmed by others.

    Dmitri - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I’m not sure it makes much if any difference, but we went ahead and swapped the order for you guys. Thanks for your comments!

    Jeff Suovanen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I just repaired another XR, and you are right! It doesn’t make any differnerce in the order these screws come out. I still damaged this fragile piece. As I work on more of these, I’ll figure out a way to remove this screw without damaging the clip. For now everyone, just use extra caution when removing the 1.3mm phillips screw! Thanks Jeff

    fabianowens -

    I’ve now done at least 6 of these so far and I have fairly consistent good results by taking the 2 Philips head screws out first, then doing the Y screws.

    Stow -

    Is this piece important for the repair if broken? I have broken it on a home repair. What is it used for? Is it a grounding connection or is it completely unimportant. More information needed please

    Squishy Horses - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I’m wondering that too. Is this piece important?

    Phillip Gross -

    My clip broke too! on iphone XR. Any word on necessity?

    Beth Buer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I can confirm that taking out the 1.3 mm screw first then the 1.5 mm screw works the best. If done correctly, you should be able to to remove the rest of the screws and pull the panel off with the clip still attached to the panel. For reassembly, start with the 1.5 mm screw then the 1.3 mm screw.

    Carlos Oulman - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I don’t remove the small screw at all. I just slide out the metal cover plate and slide back in to reassemble.

    Kyaw-Zin Win - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I too broke this shield. In looking over this problem I believe it’s best to loosen, but not remove, either screw first then the other. To be clear, loosen the red or yellow screw but only just to break it free, then the second screw. Then remove both and the others and the shield should remain in one piece. I put it back with the broken part (on the red screw) and made sure the two are in contact so there’s conductivity as these shields serve a purpose other than just holding in connectors. My phone works fine with this fix.

    pgrobin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Is this small bracket important if broken??

    Phillip Gross - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Mine is broken and my apple pay doesn’t work. Something to do with NFC antenna this little clip??

    Marcos Fernández - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    On the 1.3 mm screw I actually chose not to remove it. I broke it loose then used the tip of the spudger to simply twist the bracket out of the way, with the screw still attached. Then I could remove the larger bracket.

    mpalma - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Kyaw-Zin is right because the shield contains of two tin parts. But there is another option:

    1. Unscrew the yellow and orange screws first.

    2. Lift the shield gently that it can turn about 20° anticlockwise.

    3. Open the red screw and let the shield turn with it the first degrees.

    Daniel Brehm - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  17. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the front sensor assembly connector up from its socket. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the front sensor assembly connector up from its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the front sensor assembly connector up from its socket.

    During testing, make sure your proximity sensor is not on upside down, as it’s easy to connect upside down. Your phone will boot loop if it’s on incorrectly.

    Tristan England - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  18. Remove the display assembly.

    unclear if this is where screen removal ends

    Daniel Maldonado - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  19. Remove the seven screws securing the bracket below the Taptic engine and speaker:
    • Remove the seven screws securing the bracket below the Taptic engine and speaker:

    • Three Phillips 1.4 mm screws

    • Two Phillips 1.7 mm screws

    • One Phillips 1.9 mm screw

    • One Phillips 1.6 mm screw

  20. Lift the bracket from the edge nearest the battery. Don't try to fully remove it, as it's still connected via a small flex cable. Lift the bracket from the edge nearest the battery. Don't try to fully remove it, as it's still connected via a small flex cable.
    • Lift the bracket from the edge nearest the battery. Don't try to fully remove it, as it's still connected via a small flex cable.

  21. While holding the bracket out of the way, use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flex cable underneath. While holding the bracket out of the way, use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flex cable underneath.
    • While holding the bracket out of the way, use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flex cable underneath.

  22. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the bracket.

  23. Remove the piece of black tape and the small rubber rectangle covering the Taptic Engine connector cover. Remove the piece of black tape and the small rubber rectangle covering the Taptic Engine connector cover.
    • Remove the piece of black tape and the small rubber rectangle covering the Taptic Engine connector cover.

    In my case, the rubber rectangle was mechanically attached to the Taptic Engine connector cover. To remove the cover, I lifted the thinner portion of the rubber rectangle and removed the 1.8mm Phillips screw indicated in step 25. Once the 1.8mm screw was removed the cover and the rubber square came off as one piece.

    Joel White - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  24. Remove the 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the Taptic Engine connector cover. Remove the Taptic Engine connector cover.
    • Remove the 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the Taptic Engine connector cover.

    • Remove the Taptic Engine connector cover.

  25. Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket. Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.

  26. Remove the two 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the Taptic Engine.
    • Remove the two 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the Taptic Engine.

  27. Remove the Taptic Engine.
    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

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Adam O'Camb

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Community

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does replacing any new vibrator works? or it needs reprogramming?

yeasin kabir - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

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