For an easier repair, use our fix kit and follow this shorter guide to replace your iPhone’s entire screen.

For more advanced fixers, this guide will help you replace only the iPhone 7 LCD and digitizer assembly (a.k.a. the bare “front panel”). This requires you to transfer several components from your original screen to the new one before installing it—including the front camera assembly, earpiece speaker, LCD shield plate, and home/Touch ID sensor.

For all screen/display repairs, it's important to carefully transfer the original home/Touch ID sensor onto the new display in order for it to function. The solid state home button is paired to its original logic board by Apple, so replacing it will render it unusable.

  1. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Pentalobe Screws: step 1, image 1 of 1
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.

    ballina5ny - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.

    Mark Lieberman - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)

    Jan-Tijn Oppermann -

    3.4 mm is the height of the screw and is not related to the screw driver code.

    Ahmad Vaziri -

    the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The bottom screws are Pentalobe, not Phillips.

    Bram Driesen -

    Before starting, I would recommend backing up your Iphone’s data just in case.

    Jon Moylan - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If you managed to make it to this section, just send the phone into apple for 50 + 6 dollars shipping. The ribbon cables on the screen are designed to break. I can literally twist on the rest of the cable and it won’t fall apart but there is a diagonal section where it snaps. This is the fault of apple and the fault of ifixit for misrepresenting the fragility of the cables.

    Ryan Huebert - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Had to reheat it a few times for a minute each with a hairdryer to get the seal to break after pulling and rocking the suction

    Cynthia Lamb - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I’m technically challenged. Is there a premier national service who can professionally install a replacement battery got my 7 +?

    Richard - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Do the screws come out in total?

    YVES THEUGELS - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Is it the P2 you should use for the bottom??

    YVES THEUGELS - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I heated the bottom of the phone with a hairdryer and then used a syringe to put a couple of drops of acetone directly into the bottom two screw holes. I GENTLY pulled on the screen with the suction cup and used the pry tool to GENTLY separate the screen. The sealant is applied around the entire display so be very careful pulling it off so you don’t break the fragile display cables.

    Anthony Scaminaci - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  2. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Tape over the display: step 2, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Tape over the display: step 2, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Tape over the display: step 2, image 3 of 3
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

    • If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

    In case of broken glass you can make the suction cup much more effective by covering the glass with a broad piece of translucent tape which eliminate air leakage through cracks in the glass.

    lionno1 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Il n’est pas nécessaire de mettre beaucoup de scotch.

    Au contraire plus vous mettez de scotch, plus il y aura de défauts et la ventouse ne collera pas.

    Une bande bien positionnée suffit.

    Chloé Bossuette - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I’ve used hot glue on low setting to remove all types of crystals. The hot glue will release with a little iso alcohol. No damage to glass or plastic faced crystals or screens. Use a narrow piece of wood as a prying handle.

    Emilio Gonzalez - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I recently had issues with removing the glass with the suction cup. I have done this many times with older generation iPhones but this time the glass seemed sealed on quite solidly. I told myself that the last option would be to use the screwdriver tip. After all my attempts, I transitioned to the option of using the screwdriver tip. Surprisingly, it was the easiest thing ever. I placed the 1mm flathead screwdriver at the interface between the glass and the cover (normal start location) and pried up very gently. Voila, the glass came up and I can’t even notice any dents or scratches. It felt much easier than the suction cup technique. If the suction cup is giving you a hard time consider using that 1mm flathead.

    forhereyesonly - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This is definetly the best option to open this thing up. I’ve spend 30min with trying to heat it up and remove it using the suction cup. I needed 3sec with the 1mm flat screwdriver and i t was’nt scary at all. No dents nor scratches here too. Thanks for your comment.

    Berggorilla -

    thank you!!!!!

    Adrian Phan -

    Great suggestion to use the screwdriver!! Thanks, it really helped

    obo12759 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  3. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement, iPhone 7 Opening Procedure: step 3, image 1 of 1
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    ¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

    joscarlos91 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Sesenta segundos

    Krutav Shah -

    It is a process. I heated the lower area of the phone with a hair dryer on and off (1min each) about 3-4 times before I was able to get the provided tool in.

    Dan - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I suggest using a hairdryer. I used the iOpener for maybe 30 mins to no avail. However, when I used the hairdryer the screen came of much quicker.

    Michael - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I totally Mr. Myagi’ed it, by rubbing my hands together until they burned, then held the phone un my hot hands. I did this 5-6 times over a couple of minutes. It was a good zen way to get started!

    Ark - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Can a heat gun be used?

    Lee - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Absolutely. Just don’t overdo it—the adhesive usually softens up pretty easily. If you are experienced with a heat gun, you’ll have no problem. (If you are inexperienced, it’s easy to cook the display or cause other damage.)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If i use this process, will iphone 7 still be sealed, water/ splash resist after that?

    Marius Serban - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Angel Hermida -

    Can I use a cpb heating pad to soften the adhesive ? If yes how much time and temperature ?

    davidecongiu - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Will doing this compromise the screen protector (Zagg) that I have on my phone?

    Eric Nance - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hairdryer worked for me but I needed to use a razor to pry it open at the bottom then used the spudger

    Gina Torres - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Is there a reason why you wouldn’t put the iopener over the entire length of the phone, instead of just the bottom corner?

    BPX - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The motherboard is extremely sensitive to heat.

    Neal Reasland -

    Hello can the head damage the id touch bottom?

    After heating opening it stoped working.

    Qrizmasex @ gmail . Com

    aratovski - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It definitely can. That happened to me.

    Steve Naylor -

    mine didnt come with a heat pack do i use a hair dryer

    Shy Rose - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I just threw a hand towel in hot water, and then stuck it into a plastic bag. Dryers work fine, too.

    hiroo yamagata -

    Thanks for this, the other instructions make it seem SOOOOO simple to open up the case with the suction cup! It actually is hellish. The instruction here about the pre-heating and the required patience really helped!

    hiroo yamagata - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    For those of you who don’t have an iOpener or a girlfriend, I used a ziplock bag with some instant mashed potato inside. It worked perfectly first time and you can fold the bag around the ID button in order to prevent damage to it.

    You also get to celebrate by eating the mash afterwards, HUZZAH!

    Adrian - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I found this to be completely useless. It didn’t help at all. I had to use a heat gun instead. Waste of money.

    David Gordon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I’ll experiment with leaving the phone in the sun until the Temperature Warning comes up so the phone tells me when it’s too hot to be safe.

    Maybe it will be hot enough, maybe it won’t—

    edmk5000 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I use a rice pack in the microwave. White dry rice in a sock sown or tied, then microwave (1 minute +/-). The dry rice heats and retains heat for a long time. My kids loved them in in bed during cold winter nights.

    Todd Oeftger - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I have changed now Iphone 5 Battery, IPhone 7 front camera & another iPhone 7 rear camera. The instructions along with the comments are really important. Be patient & read them several times. By using your heated gel pack 3-4 times for 2 mins or so on the bottom end near the touch button you will be able to pry with your razor & then you can use your spudger. Thanks for this great guide.

    Kala - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I would DEFINITELY recommend to NOT use direct heat (hair drier, etc.) on the phone. I used a hair drier to help heat the phone and ended up damaging the home button (would not work after the replacement and I did not touch or take apart the home button). Note that a damaged home button cannot be replaced so I will end up using the alternative “screen” home button going forward with my phone. Instead I would recommend preheating something else (example - metal / coins / ceramic / beads / glass stones / cookware / etc..) to a warm-to hot (but not burning hot) touch and place the heated items on the IPHONE (or visa versa) to heat and soften the adhesive.

    Ed Scannell - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I used 1-gallon Ziploc back and poured 1qt of boiling water into it. I placed my iPhone on a corkboard and the bag on top for 120 sec.

    It worked like magic. I just pooled the screen with the suction cup, and it got loose from the case. No heat damage. Everything works.

    Igor Touzov - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I placed the iOpener heat bag over the bottom of the phone, disregarding the home button. Now it doesn’t work. All subsequent procedures went well as I was very careful. I should have read all the posts! Protect the home button from direct heat. Fortunately, now using the Assistive Touch feature is better than buying a new phone or replacing the home button.

    Kurt Bee - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It’s better to choose an iPhone back case to cover and protect your phone from bumps and scratches. Choosing premium cases is the best option for long-term safety. If you need ***iPhone 7 phone cases*** then you can check them out!

    FLAUNT - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  4. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 4, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 4, image 2 of 2
    • Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

    Display is glued and doesn't come off.

    support - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

    Mimic44444 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Last comment works well. Thank you !

    Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

    Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

    Arni Benediktsson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I agree that using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in this steps description. I don’t have wide but turned mine horizontal and that worked great.

    Mary Knapp - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Bekomme die Oberschale einfach nicht runter! Trotz mehrmaligem erwärmen durch den iOpener und seitlichen bewegen! Weiß nicht mehr weiter!

    Stephan Lienhard - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Wouldn’t that screw up the Touch ID?

    Rexx Havok - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The suction cup that is. supplied with the essentials kit doesn’t work that well.

    Laurence - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Agreed, the iFixit suction cup was useless. I borrowed one from the sponge holder in my kitchen sink. It lacked a grip so I held it with needle-nose pliers, resting them on a bit of wood to keep pressure off the phone.

    ephraim -

    I am not getting this open at all! Why an I provided with tools that can't help me ??‍♀️

    Bray Joseph - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I couldn’t get the bottom to lift first, but the left side did, so I started there and worked my way around the horn.

    selimnairb - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  5. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 5, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 5, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 5, image 3 of 3
    • Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

    This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

    jessica harlow - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

    mcr4u2 -

    I confirm that the plastic spudger it’s not the best tool for this operation. I suggest to use a larger metal tool like a “Jimmy” or “iSesamo open tool” (I used the first one)

    Cristef -

    Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

    Jordon Johnson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

    Jordon Johnson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

    Chris Gallego - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

    Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

    amberron - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

    Ted - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.

    Dan - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger

    Therese Peffer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)

    johnhall918 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Unable to open an iPhone 7 display assembly. Used gell pack at 150 degrees F. The phone wouldn’t budge when I used the iFixit suction cut. Part of the problem is that the cup doesn’t adhere for long before it looses suction. I suspect it would work better on unbroken glass, but that doesn’t help me now. After spending a lot of time at this, I changed heating methods to a hot air heater. I raised the temp of the bottom end of the phone to, ultimately, 175 degrees, and used a variety of tools to try to pry the glass apart enough to get a spudger (or anything) in, but it didn’t even lift enough for a double-edged razor blade to get in. I’ve been trying this for hours now, and about to give up and throw a lot more money at this to have a service perform the work. I figured that 175 was as high as I should need to go to soften the adhesive without damaging the electronics. Should I have gone higher? I see no mention of measured temps in any instructions or comments.

    ted - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Have you tried applying tape to the broken screen? This will help a lot with keeping the suction cup on it.

    Christian Groothuis -

    It doesn’t need to get very hot; pulling up on the display is mainly what does the trick. Make sure the two pentalobe screws have been removed and then try the tricks in this step. If all else fails, superglue the suction cup to your display and let it cure, and then pull. Keep in mind you only need a tiny gap to insert a plastic pick and start cutting the adhesive. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just a question. After this operation the impermeability function was compromitted?

    bentek86 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The trick I found, was to add packing tape right across the bottom over the home button then use hairdryer on the end, then suction cup on the very bottom and it lifted enough to get a gap. No one mentioned how it would be impossible to handle the phone after the hairdryer ;)

    Andrew Lansdowne - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I used a hair drier while lifting up at the same time until I could get the too inside. The seal is pretty finicky. Just take your time and you should be fine. Work the hair drier and the tool all the way around before lifting the screen up and off. There will likely be sealant stuck between the screen and phone. You can just break it with the tool.

    Ray Bieze - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This step was impossible for me despite using a blow dryer and having no cracks on the screen. I finally took it to a local repair place and had them do battery replacements for two iPhone 7’s. The girl let me watch her do it. She used a razor blade (just until she had a small opening that she could hold open with her fingernail) and confirmed that she too would have difficulty opening it with a plastic tool and suction cup. The plastic tool was great for prying the rest of it open once a crack was there, but she said she would never try to use that as the tool to initially open it. The tools provided for initially prying open the screen are inadequate.

    Chad Twedt - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hopeless - no chance to get the screen off without any damage. No matter what tools, heat etc.

    Anatole Beams - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I second what others have said, definitely use a razor blade to break the seal! Heat helps some, but too much direct heat is bad for the screen. Would have been impossible if I hadn’t read the comments, thanks everybody!

    Kit - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Use extreme caution on this step. I was just replacing my battery and now i’m buying a new screen. The screen was very stuck, I pulled to hard and it popped off suddenly, completely destroying the screen.

    moose - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    When the right heat is reached, the easiest way is to use a metal iFlex to create the initial gap, then insert the Jimmy or iSesamo next to it so the gap gets bigger, at this point you can get in with the flat edge of a plastic spudger and slowly slide it in the borders to cut the adhesive. You will still need to force a bit the upper end to separate the screen by pulling it down while keeping up the screen, and twist to the right. I hope this is clear enough. Never apply too much strength too quickly anyway.

    Stefano Restuccia - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I used the short blade of my swiss knife to make an initial opening. Using the sharp edge, inserting about 1 mm straight down and twisting down into a 45° angle. Then I was able to insert the spudger.

    John van de Loo - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This is a difficult step. Fortunately, I had another suction cup from an earlier repair available, so I applied one to each side of the phone. After warming with a hair dryer, I was able to pull the two suction cups far enough away that another person could easily insert the spudger.

    The third hand was essential.

    Mark - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I found this tactic to be the best solution for us. I used two suction cups, one on each side of the phone, and another set of hands to get a pry tool under the display. We still had to take our time prior while heating the adhesive, but were able to pry the display fairly easily using the two suction cup method.

    Lucas -

    It was a really excruciating process of heating, lifting with the suction cup, trying to slide in the spudger/pick, and repeating the process for 20 times or so. But in the end, my patience paid off!

    hiroo yamagata - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I used a hair dryer, then used a safety razor blade parallel to the bottom edge to push straight down (from the glass side, towards the back) while lifting with the suction cup. I wiggled the blade (top to bottom) while pressing down gently, until I saw a gap that would accept the spudger. It did not take much force on the blade or much wiggling, just patience.

    Gene Merritt - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Followed Gene’s approach with heat and a razor blade. I was nervous, but went slow; it was very easy and effective. Great tip. Just be patient and don’t rush yourself.

    Michael J - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I would skip right to using a single edge razor blade and a hair dryer to create the gap needed for the spudger.

    Logan Brown - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Think plunging the toilet - it did not work for me for a long time. the suction cup would not stay held on a long pull. I found that tiny push-pull repeated motions, reseating the suction cup with each push slowly overcame the adhesive, and contributed heat :). I had it after about 50-70 cycles

    Andrew Balanda - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    seconding this comment from Ted ~~~ “the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).”

    natjpollard - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I echo what everyone is saying here, the spudger just isn’t good enough for this and neither is a pick. The razor is the best way to go. I tried using a very sharp penknife blade and managed to damage my LCD (somehow!) and the bezel so I ended up having to buy a new screen display as well as a new battery. Think twice before doing this. Be prepared to shell out for a new screen just in case it goes wrong. You’ll also need the heat gun (the iopener was useless). If you do need to buy a new screen, make your life easier and get one with the speaker, forward-facing camera, home button, etc., already attached (you can then replace the home button) or you’ll end up having to transfer all these from your old display.

    David Gordon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I finally got the screen up but shattered it in the process. I was replacing it anyway but if the screen is not what you’re replacing, take EXTEME caution. The suction cup and spudger were not working for me to get it started. Thanks to the comments, I used a razor blade and a heating pad and went back and forth, back and forth, between heat and pressure from the blade. Once you get a gap, the spudger works great and the screen comes up easy.

    Nick Nave - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The suction cups that iFixit sells are crap. They don’t stick at all. Glass on the phone is pristine.

    Nick - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    More feedback on this “guide”:

    “Pull up on the suction cup.” What does this mean? If I just pull up on the suction cup (with a real one that actually sticks) it just lifts the phone off the table. You need a description of what you are pulling against. Do I try to hold the frame of the phone? Do I try to stick something in the lightning port to pull against? Do I try and get something against the edge of the rounded metal on the edge of the phone (this usually just slips off). What am I pulling against???

    Nick - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I found a combination of iOpener, suction cup and razor blade, all applied at the same time, worked for me and I didn't need to use a hairdryer.

    Peter Gray - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Dumbly, I thought that with the Spudger I'd had to hold the phone from the charging hole while pulling the screen. .. In the end I inserted the two ends of the tweezers(bends the tweezers and may damage it) in the screwdriver holes and pushed the screen out upwards so that I could insert the sharp side of a knife.

    Claudiu Cezar - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This was my first iPhone battery replacement and I can say this was the hardest part.

    Be wise, go for a hair dryer and heat up the phone bottom (long enough). iOpener did not work at all for me. Heat up, use the suction cup and push the opening pick under the frame as soon as you see movement along the frame.

    Then use the spudger to wander around the whole frame (leaving the pick where it is). Done!

    Guenter - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  6. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 6, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 6, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 6, image 3 of 3
    • Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I used a hairdryer and a razor

    Gina Torres - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The photos are a con. You cannot get a spudger in unless you can lift the screen. You cannot lift the screen because of the adhesive. Using a anything metal will damage the paintwork or the glass edge.

    Anatole Beams - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I agree, these guides are half imaginary idealism it seems. A thin metal edge pushed vertically down just a fraction of a mm will cause the adhesive to weaken better than any amount of heat, but affects the final appearance sadly.

    Jesse de Vries - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  7. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 7, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 7, image 3 of 3
    • Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch.

    • Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.

    Be VERY careful on this next step going up the right side of the phone. There is a ribbon cable 1/3 of the way up from the bottom that is very close to the edge. Do NOT use the blue triangle!!!! Just lightly rotate the spudger to get separation on the edge.

    Timothy Varvais - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  8. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 8, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 8, image 3 of 3
    • Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Do not insert the spudger further than the adhesive to avoid damaging delicate ribbon cables along the right edge.

    Shoot. I broke the sensitive ribbon cable because I didn’t quite understand what the instructions meant with not to insert the spudger further than the adhesive. It means depth wise, not up the side. Sigh.

    Leo Hwang - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  9. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 9, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 9, image 2 of 2
    • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

    • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

    do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

    Riley Patterson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Somehow my phone turned itself back on during the opening. Scared me a little, like a patient coming out of anesthesia during the operation. I was able to turn it back off. Gotta be more careful where you grab this thing.

    Bryant Larsen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  10. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 10, image 1 of 1
    • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  11. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 11, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 11, image 2 of 2
    • Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place.

    • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.

    The plastic clips mentioned are on the top of the screen being replaced… so not sure why it matters not to break them. Trick here was to pull the screen downwards to open a gap at the top and then insert as shown and raise to break the seal.

    Andrew Lansdowne - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This is relevant for other guides than the display replacement guide.

    jvalaamo -







    MARU - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The opening pick is packaged with the battery, not the tools, so I didn’t find it until I was past this step. Made do with careful use of the spudger and a lot of wiggling the display to break the glue.

    ephraim - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  12. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 12, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 12, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 12, image 3 of 3
    • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    I just broke the cable to the battery!

    No Bama - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

    Aiden Polaski - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Are there replacements ribbons?

    Blax Bently - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?

    I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws

    richarddillon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!

    Albert -

    Same, I only had one fall out and I had no idea if important, and didn’t re-add - because I wasn’t sure where it fell from - but it was definitely from the home screen button….watch it be important. -__-

    Nicole Crome -

    I just broke cable connecting camera and earpiece speaker to logic board. Be careful with it.

    Natan Haładyn - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This section is missing a critical step - to lay some Post-It notes or something below the right half of the phone when you swing it open, so the ribbon cables don’t get sliced by the sharp edge of the phone case. I broke the Home Button ribbon cable because there was no strain relief when I laid it open.

    neila - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I also broke the home button cable and now I have to use assistive touch.

    Laurencio Gonzalez - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Keep the suction cup on the display to keep it propped up while you disconnect the ribbon cables.

    minimalist - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I broke the short ribbon cable that attaches underneath the lower connector bracket. Be SURE when you lift the display, you do it from left to right. I thought I had the phone oriented correctly in my hand, but I was mistaken.

    John Murray - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Put the suction cup on the right side of the middle of the screen when you rotate it up and out. It serves as a nice stand to take the pressure off the connectors.

    Ray Bieze - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    no mention of what you do once u open the book. are the ribbons long enough to lie flat  or do we have to keep screen raised while removing screws,, like when we hold screen up 45 degrees while removing 5 screw plat when at top of phone. I only realised how fragile the ribbons are and how important it is to use suction  cup to rest screen on an angle so ribbons don't stretch or cut on frame.

    thanks for the above comments and probably the most important section. I just hope I closed t before I fdid any damage. its lke the fragility of iPhone 3’s all over again.

    scallyteacher - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I just broke one of the cables… yeah, it is not nice… I’m lucky in the sense the screen is still working, but the button is not.

    Trying a cheap screen on Ebay (that contains the cable) do 20$, after that, it’s a new cellphone…

    Vincent Poirier - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Be EXTREMELY careful when you lift up the screen. I broke 3D touch cable, and the home button stopped working. Had to replace the whole display.

    Sizun Cho - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Attention ! J’ai cassé la nappe de la caméra avant !

    arnauldjouanny - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    • Remove four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower connector bracket, of the following lengths:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.4 mm screw

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

    The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

    Harmony - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

    Chris Bennett - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

    jvalaamo - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

    Gina Torres - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

    Ray Bieze - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small.  use a magnetised screwdriver,  or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol

    scallyteacher - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid

    mark golling - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I couldn’t get the lowest one out and just turned the metal bracket out of the way and replaced battery.

    qwerty77x - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.

    Galen Wollenberg - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The top screw in the step was much longer than 1.2mm. It has the same head as the 1.2mm, but different than the 2.4mm. It’s good to keep track of where they came from.

    All are so small that I thought I’d lost one, when it was still sitting in the phone.

    Mark - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    To help tell if the screw is turning, put a small dot from a marker on the head of the screws.  This helped me to know I wasn't just stripping the head.

    Darren Thibodaux - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    try heating the iPhone with a hairdryer or a bag of rice or about 60 degrees in an oven for 3 minutes . It has worked for me. If the screws don’t come out while hot the will come out as the iPhone cools.

    David Howard - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  13. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 14, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the lower connector bracket.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    So…I forgot to put this bracket back on when reassembling. Now I’ve adhered the display to the case and don’t have another adhesive strip…so I’m wondering: what purpose does this bracket serve? The phone is powering on and seems to work okay.

    Am I going to run into trouble with this bracket missing?

    Ian Fritz - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Well, that didn’t last long. The phone shuts down without warning. So I guess that plate is important…

    Ian Fritz -

    I also forgot to put the battery shield in, and adhered the display. I’m tempted to leave it like that. However, your negative experience is a good data point telling me to not be cheap.

    Ordered a new adhesive , under $2 shipped from eBay.

    Yishai Sered -

    Thanks, Josh Martin! Mine was stuck too, so I lifted carefully.

    Cynthia Lamb - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  14. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 15, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 15, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 15, image 3 of 3
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

    Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

    Julian Eltrich - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.

    I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.

    The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.

    It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.

    jason - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    In my case, the battery connector was attached to the bracket. We just left it connected bracket when we pryed it up.

    Dave Miller - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Reconnecting the battery connector was a bit difficult in my case. The cable that comes out of the battery was a tiny bit too long, or that I placed the battery a bit too high (i.e., too close to the top of the phone). It took me several frustrating minutes of fiddling with the connector for it to sit right into the socket. I was not sure if that was connected correctly but, alas, the phone came back to life when it was turned back on.

    Tomoharu Eguchi - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  15. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Display Assembly: step 16, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Display Assembly: step 16, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Display Assembly: step 16, image 3 of 3
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

    To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

    iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement

    minimalist - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.

    Arjun Nagarajan - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(

    garrett peek - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    An earlier comment said to re-apply the suction cup to the right side of the display so that it acts as a stand when the phone is partially opened. That’s a great idea, and helps a lot for this step and the next.

    Mark - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hey – I broke one of these flex cables and I cant find them to purchase anywhere. Can somebody help me? It’s the LCD connector first and what is the second flex cable for? Thanks!

    Chan Ty - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I broke the second (smaller) display connector flex cable.

    1) Is it replaceable or repairable?

    2) Where can I get the replacement?

    Ben Blom - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I replaced the screen and have ended up with a blank screen. Touch control seem to work (touch button works and I can shut down the phone by pressing power button for some seconds and then swipe left to right in the upper part of the screen). But the screen is blank. I’ve tried to disconnect and connect the two connectors in step 16 but with the same result (blank screen). What do I need to do?

    Thanks for advice!

    Bjorn - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    this point is the most important in the whole manual.

    Please pay attention not to strain the flex cables or they will end up breaking

    Jose Joaquín Sanz Iniesta - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I should have been more careful - the second cable tore off.

    My own fault after having done this replacement about four times previously without any issues, I clearly got cocky and didn’t pay enough attention.

    Be VERY CAREFUL and remember to unplug those cables. Don’t skip steps.

    I’ve now had to order a replacement screen.

    Stuart - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Echo minimalist’s comment here. Prop the display up and skip to step 19 to save time and remove risk.

    .A. - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If you replace the screen and there is no display apply io propyl alcohol 99.9 & purse to both connectors on the screen and on the iPhone with a clean toothbrush and let them dry for 45 minutes and then fit the screen and reassemble the iPhone..

    It works for me . when I get a new screen I do t5his before fitting it.

    David Howard - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I tried to save time by not removing the screen during battery replacement as some comment here, HOWEVER, I ended up having to use a little force to remove the battery and in the process broke the second, lower smaller cable, resulting in loss of home button function and needing to get a new screen. Next time I will follow these steps and completely remove the screen during a battery replacement

    chrislacey - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    There is a critical fact missing from the steps here, for reassembly: That bottom (underlying) cable is longer than it should be. Loads of people are reporting that the Home button is dead after this repair, but the cables aren't torn. I'm pretty sure this is why. Here is a picture of the problem.

    When reassembling the phone, you must poke this cable back into the body of the phone while you bring the halves together, or you will crush, crimp, and destroy the cable.

    Gavin Stokes - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  16. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 17, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 17, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 17, image 3 of 3
    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Some phones could be Y000. Apple started using Y000 for these at some point in the middle of the product's lifecycle.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If you’re having trouble removing these screws;

    the screw on the right goes into a standoff screw that is screwed into the frame.The left one goes into the logicboard.

    If your phone is used most likely it has been repaired in the past and the person that repaired it put the screws in way too tight.

    If your phone is brand new And you know 100% it is then the problem is your screwdriver.Stop before you strip it completely and buy a better screwdriver (EBAY).

    If you already stripped the screw head take the phone to a shop before you break it.

    there are ways to get them out but truthfully it’s extremely dangerous and sometimes your better off quitting while you are ahead.

    Vegeta Barrett -

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

    efazio588 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

    minimalist - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

    Ray Bieze - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    i used the little +-shape 30 mm screwdriver (not the Y…but the + shape).

    mason - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?

    patricia loving - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.

    jack jones - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O

    Nicole Crome - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    What can I do to remove the screw (I stripped it)

    Alex Vu - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I skipped this step. Just be really careful not to pull on the screen.

    Takumi Arai - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The guide says they changed these to the Y000 “at some point in the t middle of the product’s lifecycle”…

    That can’t be true, I have a *day one*, preordered iPhone 7, and mine had, unmistakably, Y000 screws!

    and also, I’m just faithfully following the guide here, but can anyone clarify *why* is is necessary to entirely remove the display AND the Taptic Engine at all? The battery seems accessible just fine… oh well

    PS- I’m doing this on an older backup iPhone 7. My iPhone 12 Pro just went berserk and stopped working completely a little over a year after I got it day one of its release… since the iPhone X I’ve only had easily breakable, overly sensitive phones. I’ve had every numbered iPhone except for the 8 (I got the X released at the same date) and the 11, and man, are these newer iPhones post X fragile!

    Cam F - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  17. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 18, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 18, image 2 of 2
    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the only connector that is quite easily possible to put back in the wrong way. If you do so, the phone will just get into a continuous loop where it shows the boot screen, goes blank and then shows the boot screen again and again. If this happens, do not despair-just put it back in the right way.

    Roy Mathew - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    After putting together, I had a continuous loop boot up (as noted above). I saw articles where this (front panel sensor connection) was the reason. I disconnected this connection and the boot up loop stopped. I tried reconnecting several times but had the same problem (boot up loop). However, it turns out that I needed to apply extra pressure when installing until a heard a (faint) second click when pressing down. Note - before I was using the spudger to press the connection together, which didn’t do the job. I ended up using my finger to press harder to get it to click in. Solved that issue.

    Ed Scannell - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

    John Daily - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

    Sarah Valencia - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  18. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 19, image 1 of 1

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

    trent bost - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    @trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

    Jeff Suovanen -

  19. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Home/Touch ID Sensor: step 20, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor:

    • One 1.1 mm screw

    • Three 1.3 mm screws

    • During reassembly, be careful not to overtighten these screws, or your home button may not work.

    Why is the screw over top of the home button so difficult to get out… has anyone else experienced this..? This is twice now I've struggled to get that screw

    Brandon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The screw to the left holding the heatshield is never mentioned in this guide

    Beerbo - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    No reason to touch that screw unless you’re removing the shield—in which case, this step instructs you to remove it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The link that was mentioned takes you to the heat shield for iphone 7 plus. There’s a slight difference in the two models.

    Jason Glenn -

    To clarify: the regular/smaller iPhone 7 has no screw on the far left there. The 7 Plus does, but there’s no need to touch it unless you’re removing the large metal shield covering the back of the display. The procedure in the guide is correct.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    So I stripped the screw furthest to the left, how can i possibly remove it now? Can I just buy a new LCD shield and home bracket button and screw and will that work just fine on the new screen replacement? this stripped screw of mine is not coming out

    Bryan Ferrer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    That should work, as long as you can still get the home button/sensor out without damage. For removing a stripped screw this size, I’d probably try supergluing it to the driver—or else just drill the top of the screw off and then remove the bracket, leaving the screw shaft embedded in the old display. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I used the same driver for all of these screws. Had to apply a lot of pressure before trying to unscrew it and it was fine.

    jessica harlow - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This is wrong, the size you need is Y00 for the 1.1mm screws and Y000 for the 1.3mm one.

    Robert Clark - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The heads on those screws are identical. I’ve never had any trouble using a Y000 for all of them. Use whatever works for you I guess.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I’ve managed to strip the screw on the right hand side - not the far right, just right of the home button. Any ideas on how to get it out without glue (I don’t have any)

    Christie Ellen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My screwdriver is too big to get out the screws

    Coolinee Kerman - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My eyesight isn’t what it used to be. That said, the replacement screen that arrived already had screws in the two outside positions. It took me a minute to figure this out when I was trying to install the home button. I couldn’t figure out why the screws weren’t going in. I thought the holes were filled or something… Nope. screws. Took them out and used them.. all good.

    Critter - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My 7 had quite a bit of loctite holding these bad boys on. I stripped the one to the right of the home button and after using many “sentence enhancers” I was able to remove it using good tweezers and quite a bit of hand strength. I think that heating up the screws here is not an option because the cables lie underneath the plate and would probably get damaged from the amount of heat needed to loosen the loctite. Be patient here, and maybe have spare Y000 drivers because you may damage your driver getting these screws out.

    P Park - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If your having trouble. I recommend you guys to buy the Y00o driver at amazon. It look golden. It works very will .

    Jonathan curz - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Read instead of: “Remove the four Y000 screws”. “Remove the four Philips 00 screws”. Thats the case what occurs to me.

    Henk - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hi all, I’m really hoping someone will be able to give me a hand here, so the 1.1mm screw on top of the home button is stripped, and absolutely refuses to get out. I have tried the superglue technique mentioned and am worried it may have even glued the screw to the bracket. The only solution I can think of is to bend the home button bracket on either side of the middle screw, and use the bracket itself to remove the screw from the home button. I have ordered a new home button bracket either way, does anybody have any other ideas? Should I even attempt what I am proposing?

    Thanks in Advance.

    llamalulu42 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This worked for me take a Stanley blade and saw a grove across the screw with the edge ofcourse then heat the home button with hair dryer for a couple of minutes take the blade and press it into the groove you scored and turn it

    Paul -

    Does the ground strap go over or under bracket?

    Marcos Polos - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    over the bracket

    David Proudman -

    my home button does not work anymore! do you know why?

    josé - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I magically used an X-acto knife tip to lift the edges of the home button screw to loosen it, and then turned it slightly with the X-acto blade tip in the screw slot to get it started, then the 000 screwdriver could finish it.

    Jim Pflasterer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I can’t stress how important it is to not overtighten the one on the button. I undertightened the center one at first in fear, and then tightened it more when I realized the button was loose. It ended up ruining the home button :(

    Brendon Parker - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I was completely unable to get the screw directly over the homebutton off. I definitely stripped it some. Here’s some tips!

    1. If you are trying to unscrew and it skips instead of locking in—STOP. Apply more pressure, and then try again. Keep doing this until it comes out. If you continue turning without doing anything, you’ll strip the head of the screw and end up in a way worse situation.

    2. If your screw is stripped, first try putting a rubber band between the screwdriver and the screw to fill the gap. Duct tape has worked for many people as well.

    3. If you can’t get the screw directly above the home button off of the home button, I found this video that shows how to remove the home button without unscrewing the screw!! Bend the protective plate up 90° on both sides of the home button so the bent plate now fits through the home button hole. Then you can continue to

    the next steps and remove the home button with the plate still attached to it.

    silas - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Don’t know if I did something wrong, but the home button no longer works. I’ll see if I can get someone to repair it.

    David Proudman - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Found a software workaround, go to General > Accessibility > Assistive Touch. Now you don’t need the home button to work to use the phone

    David Proudman -

    I enabled assistive touch before making a go on this part. Screws are very small, easy to strip, and difficult to find if they go flying when you;re just trying to seat them properly.

    jack jones - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I’ve never been so stressed at trying to assemble something, O_O I should really get some glasses. I just reassembled all the screws, tried to not screw too tight, but how does one know? Maybe they could include “only twist 3 times, or 2…and maybe provide an ocular. Those screws are very very very tiny, and yes - be careful, because if you attach the right screw first, the left one can be catapulted if not secured and just “set” waiting to screw in. Thankful for the magnetism, but also had to find myself holding the screw in place while securing or else it would just attach to the screwdriver and come out. I'm TOTALLY looking forward to turning this ON after all assembled based on all the disheartened comments…..oy. Here. We. Go.

    Nicole Crome - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    There’s a small square rubber piece that has a screw hole in it. does anyone know if it goes over the home button? I missed it when I took it apart, but then , there it is on my table.

    MajorCouillon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It slips over one of the posts that the pentalobe screws in step 1 go through. Like a mitten over a hand. It’s incredibly hard to see where the slit is in that tiny rubber piece though.

    Jared Cook -

    What do you do if you overtighten the screws? I assume that is why my home button won't click

    Andrew Targett - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    How can you tell if you’ve over-tightened the screws or if the home button isn’t working for some other reason (other physical damage, shorted out, etc.)?

    Jared Cook - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Die Schraube auf dem Home-Button ist wohl von Apple gewollt schwer zu entfernen. Man sollte sie daher zuerst herausdrehen; denn, ist die Unterlage unterm iPhone nicht hart genug und man drückt jetzt mit Kraft über den Schraubendreher auf die Schraube, wird der Home-Button hinausgedrückt, dabei verbiegt sich die Halterung und besonders schlimm, das eine untere Flachbandkabel reißt ab und der Home-Button ist unbrauchbar.

    Hartmut Kruse - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  20. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 21, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the bracket that secures the home/Touch ID sensor.

  21. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 22, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 22, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 22, image 3 of 3

    Well, I just damaged the home button connector in step 31. It is completely off the cable. What now? Can I buy this home button?

    LadyTech - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I think you can not do it because your phone is not identify for new cable.

    Ali Alsaed - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Best thing to do here is to NOT pry up on the connector, but to insert the pry tool on the left side until the connector is dislodged.

    Oscar Moreno - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Good tip. Worked perfectly. Thx.

    Klaus M -

    That worked perfectly, thank you!

    Emily Kretschmer -

    use one pry tool to hold down, another to pull up.

    Christa - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Anyone having difficulty reconnecting the two ? I’ve been trying for ages with no luck.

    Patrick McKenna - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Same problem here - can reconnect them once the new LCD is being installed. Not sure what the trick is.

    edcraigslistaccount -

    my Homebutton don´t work after I reconnect all, I checked all flex cables but it still dont work. what can I do?

    Dr. Dieter - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    so, i’m working on an iPhone 7. I was very careful not to break anything, I even bought an iOpener heat pack and applied it, and everything went off without a hitch, but when I tested the button, It does not work, would it help to reconnect it or something?

    Thanks a lot!

    Peter Keller - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    iPhone 7 home “buttons” can be really fussy. You’ll find some good troubleshooting tips here and here. Hope this helps!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Broke my cable. The picture is not clear but you have to separate the thin silver end of cable from what looks like a black piece of rubber. I pulled up on it from under the black rubber like the picture shows and broke mine.

    bart.hutchings - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This helped me SO much. Watch it before removing home button. Around 4:56ish

    Gina Torres - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thank you so much!

    Jakob Kloppenborg -

    That’s a very good view. Thank you!

    johanbogg -

    Well, I just damaged the home button connector in step 21. It is completely off the cable. What now? Can I buy this connector ?

    dima shynin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I’m having a really hard time reconnecting the two together. Any advice?

    Ben Carter - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I used the tweezers in step 21 to separate this connector. I squeezed the tweezers shut then put the flat edge of the points between the connector and slowly released the tweezers. The connector separated really easy.

    sschaffer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This tip worked a treat. Thanks!

    Admin4CBowra -

    any tips on reconnecting the connector. I assume it needs to be snuggly fit back in. I can’t seem to connect the two agin. Is it supposed to ‘snap’ together or should I use an adhesive?

    rwalz - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Figured it out. I just needed to make sure I aligned them better when feeding the home button backthrough

    rwalz -



    MARU - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hi, After fixing Iphone 7 Plus screen, my touch sensor is not working, What is the alternative .. Please help me . Thanks

    kalyan c - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I found it quite difficult to reconnect the home button cable connector. After putting everything back together, my iPhone said there was an error with the TouchID. I disassembled the phone again, pried off the home button connector and found that I had not lined it up properly with the mated part. I had to push the connector upwards (toward the top of the phone) in order for it to seat properly. It almost felt unnatural to push the connector so far up to make it seat properly. I tested the phone again before reassembling and everything worked fine. If you break the cable on this home button piece, you can only buy a generic home button (about $8 here on Amazon) that will allow you to use the button for navigation but it will not work for TouchID (you will have to use your phone permanently unlocked or use a numeric code to unlock). The original home button is specifically mapped to your phone and cannot be replaced.

    awillimd - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  22. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 23, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 23, image 2 of 2
    • Carefully pry up the underlying connector and move it out of the way of the home/Touch ID cable.

    • It's very easy to damage your iPhone during this step. Work slowly and take care where you pry with your tool. If you damage the Touch ID hardware, it can only be replaced by Apple.

    • If the connector doesn't pry up easily, use a hair dryer or iOpener to heat and soften the adhesive securing the connector, and then try again.

    • Don't try to detach the connector completely—simply flip it up slightly so that the underlying home/Touch ID sensor cable can be removed.

    Make sure that you fold this cable out when fitting your replacement before you fasten the shield back down. I didn’t but managed to loosen 2 screws on the shield to get the cable out.

    chris_sawyer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If you have isopropyl alcohol on hand. You can use it to help weaken the adhesive temporarily when lifting up the adhered home button.

    Ben - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Just one tiny drop of isopropyl alcohol or it will reach the lcd screen.

    Stefano Restuccia -

    Heat is absolutely vital during this step. Care should be taken and you should work very slowly. A new playing card will be useful in separating the ribbon from the device, using heat periodically to soften the adhesive as you go along. The ribbon cable changes size between the connector and the button, creating a weak area that can begin to rip if stressed. Use a card flat against the frame to slowly separate the cable from the frame.

    Benji - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  23. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 24, image 1 of 1
    • Heating the area around the home/Touch ID sensor will help soften the adhesive holding its delicate cable in place, making it easier to remove safely.

    • Flip the display assembly over. Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the display for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    If you don’t have that heating tool, a hair straightener n a T-shirt worked just fine for me

    www.tertlegerl - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    A hair dryer works well too. 2mins is all you need

    Mr Tegs - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I did with a heat gun instead. I found the i opener not helpful.

    David Gordon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I need just 1 min with my hair drier, then the screen starts to pop and crackle

    Andrew Sims - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  24. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 25, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 25, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 25, image 3 of 3
    • Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel.

    It cannot be stressed enough that this is the one part of this repair that you can’t screw up. Anything else you’ll deal with during this repair can be easily replaced (The screen, and the sensor/microphone/camera assembly). Tearing this cable means an expensive trip to the apple store. or a very unhappy customer if you’re doing this for someone. Heat is your friend. I don’t even use a spudger or a guitar pick for this one, I use a new playing card to pull this up. Even with the card, you have to be careful. The edge of the playing card can nick the cable if you’re not careful to get it under the ribbon cable. If the adhesive isn’t soft enough for the card to get it up, apply more heat. Again, you can’t screw this step up. It’s all or nothing.

    Spartan99 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thanks for the tip! worked great!

    Isaac Ham -

    Do you know what I need to do if I damage the cable?

    Hey hermano -

    Well, no visible damage but the home button won’t work. I contacted a local Apple Authorized Service Center to check options. Since I had personally replaced the screen assembly, they wouldn’t even look at it per Apple policy. They said they would jeopardize their Apple Authorization if they even looked at it. Seems like more of the “Right to Repair” problem to me. Frustrated, but at least I have the accesibility home button working.

    bandman - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Make sure the home button screws aren’t overtightened; that often causes issues. If there’s any damage to the button cable, a repair shop with a skilled microsolderer can patch a new cable on and restore functionality. iPhone 7 home button not working after screen replacement? Worst case scenario, you can also buy a screen repair from Apple, and they’ll include a new home button. I am not a lawyer, but the response you’re describing from the AASP sounds way out of bounds. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I don’t know why this step does not include a major warning about it being by far the most challanging step. I started before reading the comments and most likely screwed my home button with it,

    I don’t know if it is a broken cable or if it was too much heat later…but I scratched the cable on the first try with the plectrum. It took lots of heat to soften the adhesive and then it worked WAY better for me to start removing the connector from the near side of the home button. And not, as shown, on the far side.

    Wish I had known that before - the homebutton ist not working anymore now (and it’s not the screws).

    Robert -

    Just keep in mind that this is a very delicate step that requires a lot of patience. the part is attached to the body of the phone so firmly and there is no gap to put the opening pick under. So the way I did it was applying a good amount of heat onto the part and not from behind. I did it constantly for 5 minutes, a few minutes at a time, then I pulled the connected up slightly (a little too much pressure on the pull and you will break the wire). Pull it constantly and If the heat has been enough to melt the adhesive, it should come off easily and slowly.

    ashkan eslami fard - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hi, a little thing to help : i heatened up and then insert a cutter blade to start. Work better

    Crasset Renaud - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Okay the home button is connected, as touch id works, but I can’t get any motion out of it. I backed off the screws, but that didn’t help. What else can I try?

    kathwick2 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The home button on an iPhone 7 Plus doesn’t move at all. Anything you feel during normal operation is a small vibration from the Taptic Engine that tricks your brain into thinking the button is moving.

    markpetereit -

    Salve, vorrei un vostro aiuto, ho un problema con il tasto home (il tasto è originale preso dal vecchio display rotto) una volta sostituito il Touch ID funziona perfettamente (l’iPhone si sblocca e legge l’impronta digitale) il tasto invece no (il click per intenderci) cosa può essere? Grazie!

    bernabbo - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I had to use the iOpener tool twice before the adhesive was soft enough to remove the cable with the pick.

    sschaffer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    How do I get the home button out? I got the ribbon up.. just not sure how the button comes out

    Ash - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hi, i replaced the screen and home button, the home button was a bit difficult. When i turn on the Phone, touch id works fine but not home button function. Any idea ?

    Jim - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    More precisely, i was wondering if the home button could not work while touch idea does…

    Jim -

    Wow…I did a lot of praying during this step.

    tomnape - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This was a very difficult step… I found using heat wasn't removing the adhesive for my home button. Found a video online that recommended using a playing card and a tiny bit of rubbing alcohol on the corner and slowly sliding it under. I was able to finally remove my home button using this tip.

    ryan pouliot - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Heat via hairdryer applied for a solid 3 minutes worked for me.

    natjpollard - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thank the stars that I looked at these comments. I managed to do this and transferred the home button successfully. The pick is not good enough to do this job. The suggestion to use a new playing card helped. I also found that if you use a single edged razor to ply apart the bezel from the screen then when you apply heat with the heat gun the bezel will melt and bend a bit out of shape allowing you to use the playing card to lift the home button strip away from the bezel. The adhesive on the old home button strip was enough to stick it to the new screen bezel without having to buy new adhesive.

    David Gordon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thanks for the tip on the new playing card and rubbing some isopropyl alcohol on the corner of the card! I also peeled back the metal plate on the broken screen to get that bracket out of the way for better access to the cable. After applying heat and slowly and steadily working up the cable with the card, the home button popped out in proper working order.

    Nick Nave - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  25. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 26, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly by lifting it through the front side of the display.

    • To reinstall, first feed the cable through the hole in the front of the display.

    • Your replacement part may come with an extra Y000 screw already installed right of the Home Button. Remove the unnecessary screw so that you can reinstall the home button bracket.

    • Follow this guide to install replacement display adhesive on your screen.

    True to this picture, the home button can only be removed (and put back in place) through the front of the LCD assembly.

    Talon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    OHMYGOD! Thank. you for this! After ruining *three* displays while inserting the home button from the back, I finally saw this comment…

    In my defense I had no internet access through some of these replacements… but really, I’m sorry to say, this merits a MAJOR warning on the guide.

    Cam F -

    Very good comment Talon. That was the first thing I was looking for here. There should be a bullet point in step 24 - Carefully remove home button from front of display being careful not to damage cable.

    Tracey - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Had an issue when putting the screen back on, the side where the cables attach would not sit flush. At first I thought the cables were pushing the screen up. Turned out to be the battery cable shield was just a fraction too far down toward home button. After loosening screws, nudging it up slightly and screwing back in, the screen sat flush as it should. In case anyone else has same issue.

    jbarry - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Is there anything special about reassembling the "home" button ?

    I tried several times with several buttons but none works.

    Lambiel - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    must use original button

    Christa -

    My phone is no more turning on after I replace the screen, no reaction if I press home button or power button

    cheryl.iseli - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Why doesn’t this tutorial also cover the earpiece assembly?

    James - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This guide is missing the camera transfer and the stupid little black sticker on the earpiece assembly that causes the earpiece not to work if that sticker is not transferred. This guide is wholly incomplete

    Mason Schild - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This guide is meant for the ifixit parts, not other third-party screens.

    Ben Carter -

    James and @computermason—You’ll want to look up the correct guide for your repair, especially if you’re not using one of the kits for which this guide is designed. The guide for transferring all the smaller components is here.

    Jeff Suovanen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    No home button functionality? I just watched a video on YouTube from two years ago saying that the iPhone 7 and 7+ have to be taken to an Apple repair center for the home button to work. Is this still the case? If so why didn’t you tell me this before I ordered this! Please confirm before I start warning everyone not to purchase from you!

    Gregory Haycock - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    @ghaycock If you’re replacing a screen, the home button will work fine as long as you carefully remove it from the old screen and transfer it to the new one, exactly as explained in the guide. The button itself can’t be replaced without help from Apple (which is why iFixit doesn’t sell home buttons for this model).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsuovanen If you’re replacing a screen, the home button will work fine as long as you carefully remove it from the old screen and transfer it to the new one, exactly as explained in the guide. The button itself can’t be replaced without help from Apple (which is why iFixit doesn’t sell home buttons for this model).

    Jeff Suovanen - 06/11/2019

    Jeff Suoven-I bought a new home button from Ifixit for this phone (along with a digitizer assembly) and it doesn’t work.

    Jeff Steffens -

    One thing I don’t see mentioned is the replacement of the rubber gaskets that are on the pentalobe holes. The replacement screen did not come with these on it. I was able to remove them from the OEM screen, but there was no easy way to get them to adhere to the new screen. If they move just a little, you might not be able to properly thread the pentalobe screws. Worst case is that they fall into the body of the phone during this last step of re-assembly. At that point, you’ve already started to have the screen stuck to the adhesive, so you would need to redo the entire adhesive gasket.

    You can see the gaskets in this picture:

    Here they are near the new screen:

    Andre LeBlanc - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thank you! I was wondering what those things did, and even lost one but later was lucky enough to find it.

    Ben Carter -

    I saw one mention about those small gaskets in a guide and now I cannot find it. I was able to slip them off the old screen and onto the new one. I would think this is an important step to help seal those holes for the waterproofing. They should edit these screen replacement guides to include this step. Thanks for mentioning it in this guide.

    sschaffer -

    If your home button doesn’t work after transferring to the new screen you might have a faulty screen. I spent a lot of time chasing all the suggestions here, but eventually resolved the issue by installing a replacement screen.

    nigel - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    WARNING: When you reassemble the phone, the little screws… You have to be VERY careful to not put any pressure on them until they’re really well seated, otherwise you will flick the screws into another dimension… they’re so small they literally just vanish out of existence lol. I ended up losing two of the smallest screws, one per bracket, and everything seems fine so far.

    The glue/seal is also nearly impossible to get right. Just mash it down into the general area that it belongs if it gets stretched/twisted and can’t go in perfectly. Some glue is better than no glue, just assume that any repaired iPhone isn’t water resistant at all.

    Nicholas Tenney - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The biggest issue I'm having now Is replacing the gasket that goes around the home button. The original one got stretched out and the new on is too thick to seat correctly into the hole without being exposed and potentially coming off of the home button after a while.

    Eric R Deshields - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I ordered a replacement screen from ifixit, but contrary to the description it arrived without the ancillary parts attached. So I had to transfer the front camera & sensor assembly, and the lcd shield. In case anyone else needs to do this, be sure when transferring the lcd shield that the screen cable sits properly underneath it (ie as far up towards the top of the screen as possible) or else the rectangular block on the cable will foul the loudspeaker.

    If this happens, the bottom right corner of the screen will stand very slightly proud of the case, and you will end up with a pressure spot on the screen.

    See Pressure spot on iPhone after screen replacement..

    Neil Wilson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Well I transferred all the parts properly, but the front camera wasn’t working. Reseating it fixed the camera but then when I closed the screen it cracked. I backed out to the old screen which is held together by tape, but miraculously everything including the camera and Touch ID is fine. Better luck next time.

    jack jones - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I did not realize that the much cheaper 3rd party replacement I purchased also required the further steps of removing and replacing front facing camera and speaker. I was pretty bummed initially as it looked intense…however i totally pushed through using another ifixit guide and saved $50. My only advice to a first timer would be get a $15 heat gun or the bean bag microwave thing, the hardest part is getting it open.

    Cramps Delight - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The cable is more than fragile and immediately broke right off my phone! Mine is no good anymore, but I wanted to warn everyone else just one more time…BE SO SUPER GENTLE and PATIENT…and even then, I’m not totally convinced that it is possible!! I was doing so well, right up to the point when I got to the one part that only Apple can fix and that will totally ruin your repair!!! SHAT!!!

    Good Luck all!!!

    jenn ross - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I don't understand whether I need to glue the ribbon back down on the new screen. I have not been sent any adhesive for it. The guide mentions replacing adhesive for the screen, but do you mean the home button ribbon itself? If so, what should I use?

    charlie B - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I can’t get the home button to stay in place when reataching it to the phone. Anyone know what I’m doing wrong?

    johanbogg - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The ribbon in steps 16 and 17, when reconnecting and sealing the phone, is really something to be careful with. I feel like I smooshed it in, and while the phone works after the replacement, I feel like the right side of the phone, near the power button, isn’t quite set in 100 properly. I wish I would have taken better note of how it looked prior to removing the broken screen. Hopefully, it will settle in better once the adhesive sets. At this point, however, the fact that I got through the process with what I would call 99% success is a win for me. Just be careful of the aforementioned ribbon when setting the new screen on.

    Mike K - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    So I put the home button onto my new screen and the touch ID works however, when you press down on the button to return home for example, it doesn’t work. Any ideas what might be causing this? I made sure not to tighten the screws too much when reinstalling.

    Hayden - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The home bottom sensor cable does not plugin into the new screen, if put it back to old screen it plugin nicely and directly , but on the new screen it does not stay, it does not plug in the new screen, what to do?

    mohamed elzaiady - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The comments suggest the home button is well stuck down.

    Does the home button need adhesive to stick it back onto the new screen? If so, what do you use/where do you get it?


    Andrew Murtha - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Very disappointed. Front camera and home button not working. And overheating too. I would like a refund Ifixit.

    Xavi Rojas - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  26. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Earpiece Speaker: step 27, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the three Phillips screws securing the earpiece bracket to the front panel:

    • Two 2.6 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    I am measuring the screws; my digital caliper measures both the top at 1.88mm not 2.6

    Marco Cueva - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I just checked the screw measurements and they match what’s shown in the guide. Are you sure you’re looking at the right screws?Are you sure your caliper is accurate? Was your iPhone serviced in the past and reassembled incorrectly? Something isn’t right. The measurements here are the screw lengths, by the way—just in case you were measuring something else.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    does anyone know the size of the srew on top left of the picture, next to the left red marked one? i know it’s for the earpiece in the display but i don’t know which screw has to be in there.

    butch coolidge - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    When reassembling the ear/speaker piece the plate and screws don’t seem to sit in snug and screws seem not to catch?? Any ideas what could be making this part hard to reassemble?

    ramsayapril - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It sounds like something’s blocking the earpiece speaker bracket from sitting flat. It’s possible that any of the parts under the bracket aren’t fully seated and are sitting a little higher than they should be. There also could be bunched up adhesive or other debris stuck under any of those parts. I’d recommend double-checking that all the parts under the bracket are clean and are sitting correctly in their slots on the display.

    Adam O'Camb -

  27. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 28, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the earpiece speaker bracket.

  28. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 29, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 29, image 2 of 2
    • Lift the front facing camera out of the way to access the earpiece speaker.

  29. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 30, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker to the front panel:

    • One 1.9 mm screw

    • One 2.5 mm screw

    • One 1.2 mm screw

    Hi!What size is the third screw?

    Лёха Н - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    i have the same question. Does anyone know which size the third screw on the picture (not marked) has? would be great if someone can help me out with that. thanks a lot!

    butch coolidge -

    If I measured correctly, it’s a PH000 1,2 mm

    Bram Driesen -

    I noticed the the third screw is a Y000 on a replacement screen.

    Brandon Ferens -

    It is not necessary to remove the third blue screw in order to remove the ear piece.

    Brandon Ferens - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  30. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 31, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the earpiece speaker.

  31. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement, Front Camera and Sensor Cable: step 32, image 1 of 1
    • Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the upper edge of the display assembly to soften the adhesive holding the front camera and sensor assembly in place.

    • Wait about two minutes before moving on to the next step to adequately soften the adhesive.

  32. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 33, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 33, image 2 of 2
    • Use a spudger to gently pry the ambient light sensor out of its recess on the front panel.

    • Try to get your tool all the way under the sensor to pry it away from the clear plastic beneath. If you pry only against the cable, the sensor may separate from the cable assembly and will need replacement. If you're replacing the sensor/cable assembly anyway, then it doesn't matter.

    I’m sorry to comment but this step is wrong. The proximity sensor is sticked to the display. I was following this instruction and the sensor was unvelded from the flex cable. Now it’s workless. It’s a fortune that the only problem with the iPhone is that while calling and holding the phone to the ear, the display doesn’t turn off.

    I recommend to gently pushing against the transparent plastic enclosure near the sensor and once it’s unsticked, keep pushing against the sensor’s body. In this way the sensor welding doesn’t bear/support any extra load on it.

    At least, my iPhone 7G had the sensor sticked to the display. Maybe some day I will replace it (around 20€ - 25€ on ebay)

    I won't claim to iFixit nor stop using this website. Whenever I higly recommend to iFixt technitians to revise such kind of “errors”. At least for expensive devices like Apple products.

    Miguel Cretu - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I editted this guide and added these two comments. I already know about this “trick”. It’s your own decision to follow my suggestion or not.

    Miguel Cretu - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I have fixed 2 screens now on iPhone 7. The 1st time I didn’t have this problem, 2nd time I did. I would agree with Miguel Cretu and save yourself the hassle and remove the sensor and it’s surround altogether.

    Wayne Lyell - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    In the second picture, there is the splugger that’s on it’s right is near a little window square, white inside. I’ve checked my replacement display and it don’t have inside in WHITE in this little window . Anyone know why have this color (it is not a sticker) and what is the reason? Thanks

    fakirox - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I also had to pop out the clear plastic surround of the front camera to put into my new screen. It’s just glued in, so heat and pop it out with a spudger. Best to do this step last so you don’t accidentally tear any ribbons.

    Grant Barker - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I actually found that removing the assembly from the other side (like the step 35) is a bit easier. Also, heat is really useful! I took an hair dryer, and for at least 3 minutes I heated by interval the piece, and at the end, the glue was so soft, it was really easy to remove!

    Vincent Poirier - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I forgot to read the comments for this step (unfortunately) and had the same issue like Miguel. I think the guide should write that “gently pry the ambient light sensor and its transparent plastic case from the front panel”. If you do not need the plastic case there is no problem, mine practically fell out from the rest of the sensor after turning it upside down.

    Kristóf - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  33. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 34, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 34, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 34, image 3 of 3
    • Slide the pick towards the front facing camera housing, separating the adhesive holding the cable to the front panel. Stop just before the screw posts.

  34. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 35, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 35, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 35, image 3 of 3
    • Use the pick to lift the camera cable up off of the two plastic posts on the front panel and separate it from the last of the adhesive.

    на рисунке №2 винт 3 отсутствует, на рисунке № 3 винт 3 присутствует. нет описание где он был вывинчен. последний винт с правой стороны, около камеры

    Vitaly Savin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  35. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement: step 36, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the front camera and sensor cable.

    Look at the camera assembly closely. There are two cables soldered together. Do not separate the pieces by mistake . Get the pick all the way below both ,and they will come off together.

    turboduck2 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Good statement I made that mistake on my first iPhone 7 Plus !

    Jaye - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Its not mentioned here but there is a small philips screw at the top left that you may have to transfer to your new lcd panel

    Steve - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hi Steve, what is the main work of this little strip with 2 small contact? Antenna? Shield?


    fakirox -

    do you know the measurements of that small philips screw?

    butch coolidge -

    I’ve separated the sensor and front facing camera, can I just press them back together or will I need a complete replacement

    Dominic Sore - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    About Steve comment, anyone know what is this small screw with two contact? It is an antenna ?? Shield??? Thanks

    fakirox - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I’m also looking for info on the screw on the immediate left of the top left corner of the speaker. Did you find the info out?


    Mike Grandbois - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  36. iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement, LCD Shield Plate: step 37, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 LCD and Digitizer Replacement, LCD Shield Plate: step 37, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the three 1.2mm tri-point Y000 screws from either side of the display assembly for a total of six screws.

    i miss the screw size here

    Beerbo - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I think it's 1.2mm Y000

    STRAP -

    I d’ont think the screw size is correct, because i had to order a new heat shield plate, because my original broke during the replacement.

    Marco Burkhalter - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I found if I held the flat end of a spudger behind the screw while I unscrewed, it worked well. Otherwise there was too much flex to get a good grip on the screw.

    Travis Hogg -