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If your iPhone 11 Pro Max screen is cracked, not responding to touch, or not showing a picture when your phone is powered on, use this guide to restore your iPhone to working order with a new screen, a.k.a. display assembly.
The combined earpiece speaker + sensor assembly affixed to the back of the display is paired to your individual iPhone from the factory, so you must transfer it from your old display to your new one during any display replacement. It contains the flood illuminator, which is part of the biometric Face ID security feature. If it is damaged or replaced, Face ID will cease to function, so take extra care not to damage any of these components during this procedure. If damaged, only Apple or an Apple-authorized technician can restore Face ID function.
Note: True Tone functionality is disabled after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen. Additionally, your iPhone may temporarily show a warning about the “genuineness” of the display.
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?
Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?
I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.
what fix kit?
My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either
Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.
My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary
It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.
No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?
Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.
For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you
Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!
Will the phone still work if the sensor assembly on the back of the screen is damaged?
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
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If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
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Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
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Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
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Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
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Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
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Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
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Skip the next three steps.
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
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If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap.
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Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
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Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
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Gently pull the right edge of the display down slightly (in the direction of the Lightning port).
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Insert your pick into the top-right corner of the phone.
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Continue pulling the display down (toward the Lightning port) as needed in order to make a gap large enough for the pick.
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Slide the pick to the top left corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.
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Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
Remover: Mover algo, agitándolo o dándole vueltas, generalmente para que sus distintos elementos se mezclen.
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Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
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Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Remove two 1.3 mm long Y000 screws securing the battery cover bracket.
My Y000 didn’t work on my screws. Does anyone know why?!
Podéis usar el verbo quitar o retirar.
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Remove the bracket.
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Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
The second connection from the battery to the daughterboard should also be disconnected even just as an extra precaution.
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Use a Y000 driver to remove six 1.3 mm screws securing the logic board cover bracket.
What do you do if one of the screws gets stripped? I can get it out.
Solder a paper clip to it
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front sensor assembly cable connector.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.
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Remove the display assembly.
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Remove the three screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly to the back of the display:
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Two 1.6 mm Phillips screws
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One 1.4 mm Y000 screw
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Use the point of a spudger to gently pry up the top edge of the speaker.
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Flip the speaker assembly over—down and away from the top edge of the display.
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for 1-2 minutes, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.
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Use the point of a spudger to lift and separate the microphone from its notch in the front panel.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display.
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If you successfully removed the entire ambient light sensor, as shown in the first photo, continue to the next step below.
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If the white diffuser strip detached and remains embedded in the display, as shown in the second photo, you will need to carefully lever it out along the top edge using a thin blade or pry tool. Re-applying heat first may make this task a bit easier.
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Working left to right, slide an opening pick beneath the flex cable and underneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module.
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Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from its notch in the front panel.
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Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.
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Proximity sensor
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Flood illuminator
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The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our iPhone 11 Pro Max Answers community for troubleshooting help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our iPhone 11 Pro Max Answers community for troubleshooting help.
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There is no programmer yet for the 11 Pro as far as I can see, the YT clip is about older models. Anyone have a solution?
So far the newest iPhone I have repaired is an iPhone 7 - should I give the 11 pro a go?
Yes. It's very simple
I just finished this repair and this guide was very easy and clear to follow. I had no issues with the parts from ifixit and my phone is back to fully operational. I just wish that OLED screen wasn’t so much money, but oh well…
how do i return it back there is no how to put it back
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
M Quick -
Is it not necessary to disconnect the battery from that little “daughter-board” like component where the vibrator, and loudspeaker connect to as well? I have always done this but I am curious if anyone knows if there is actually any risk.
shorting is still an issue I believe
I have done several screen replacements and not done that secondary disconnect, and no issues so far. Only ever disconnected that when replacing the battery or for other purposes (replace charger port, etc.) that would require one or both of those components to be removed.
I disconnect both connectors every time because the current is also going into the daughter-board.
So I recommend you to disconnect both connectors.
Good to hear, That is what I do as well
Do you guys know how to get rid of the error that says that this iPhone part might be not from this phone?
If anyone has a solution please do advise because I get a dim screen light when I go in gallery only
I wish I had realised before I started/made the purchase that I should have rented the device to program the new screen. My wife isn’t loving the color not being as it was. I may have to find the device, and another new glue gasket and redo. I’d love to know is this is available other than as part of the full set, I had to other part & tools as the part only was unavailable…I returned the old screen and the tools…hopefully I’ll get at least my $10 back.
James, try going into Settings > Accessibility > Display & Text Size > Color Filters.. and you may be able to tweak the outputs to get it a bit better. I ended up cheaping out on a non-Apple display for my phone (SE First Gen) and fiddled with the 'honeycomb' filter and tweaked the intensity and hue and it's not that bad.
Clear and easy to follow. Doesn't mention removing the old adhesive around the case after screen removal. I felt like Jason Bourne disarming a bomb when removing the ribbon cables!
What is the paper like material on back of the iPhone screen???
Heat dissipation material
Very well performed easy to understand
Thanks
Hi how many cables are atached to the screen of iphone-14 pro max thanks
Wie soll mann das Handy ausschalten wenn das Display defekt ist oder nicht angeht?
Elias_Will Diamondblock - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
Usáis mal el verbo remover
Vicente Tortajada - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0