Replace a damaged or nonfunctioning LCD in an iPad 6.

Be very careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily damaged, resulting in irreversible damage to the logic board. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.

  1. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, iOpener Heating: step 1, image 1 of 2 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, iOpener Heating: step 1, image 2 of 2
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -


    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0


    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  2. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 2, image 1 of 1
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.


    Karl Marble - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0


    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client (boutique américaine) ou (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  3. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 3, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  4. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Alternate iOpener heating method: step 4, image 1 of 2 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Alternate iOpener heating method: step 4, image 2 of 2
    • If you don't have a microwave, follow this step to heat your iOpener in boiling water.

    • Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.

    • Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.

    • Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.

    • Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.

    • Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful to hold it only by the end tabs.

    • Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener? - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  5. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Front Panel: step 5, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Front Panel: step 5, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Front Panel: step 5, image 3 of 3
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

    If you add clear packaging tape, it will create bubbles and the suction cup will become inefficient. To me it was impossible to remove the glass with the suction cup. Since the glass was very cracked, I had to resort to some tweaking with strong tape and pull the this off.

    jfmartin67 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If your screen is significantly cracked to the left edge, abandon this entire setup, prepare yourself for a 5-6 hour repair, expect a lot of patience, a lot of cursing and some good old American ingenuity. The suction cup and picks will not work. You have to carefully crack the glass yourself (w/out damaging the panel underneath and carefully pull it apart from the inside to the outside edges. Use a hairdryer to soften the glue under the cracked panel along the edges. Then use an exacto-knife to separate the pieces of the glued panel from the frame body, all the way around the device. Watch out for the home button ribbon connector when using the exacto-knife. There will be glue residue left over, carefully apply some goo-gone to a small area of a paper towel and wipe gently around the frame body to loosen the glue. Then use the plastic spudger tool to scrape off the excess glue.

    The iPad repair is VERY difficult. If you are a working adult, hire a pro. This is not for the faint of heart.

    aaroncope - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The hairdryer option was way faster and easier than the iOpener. Be VERY careful not to damage the LCD- one small mistake will cost you an extra $100!

    Mike Martin -

    but I’m not American

    Andrew Williams -

    If your digitizer is shattered, the tape will help, but you’re going to need extra picks. Or a razor blade. See below.

    Blair Miller - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Friendly observation that the image on this step is actually of an older ipad model as the side bezels are far too big. I don't know if that matters to anybody but a noob might see it and think this manual doesn't apply to them. : )

    notalawyer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thank you! Yes things like this matter so much. I successfully replaced an iPhone 6LCD&Screen from the guide. Next was my iPad 2 and the guide said nothing about the power flex cable. They were only stressing about not severing the wifi cable. I followed instructions carefully. Got the screen off and bam. Power flex severed because it was left out of the guide. I saw it in the comments after. I’ll never follow a guide here again without reading the comments. I did receive a discount code for my next purchase but it still caused a lot of inconvience.

    Haley Hodges -

    I had the same experience. My glass was cracked all the way to the left side and the suction cup would not pull the glass up. The packaging tape also didn't help. The heat caused it to lift. I finally abandoned the tape, used a heat gun aimed very carefully at each broken piece of the screen. The picks did work with patience, but I just pulled off each broken part of the glass. I also found that pulling up on one broken part while heating in front of me would let the next piece pull up. I continued heating and breaking all the way around. Do the right side last. Took about 1 hour to get it off, and another hour to clean the old glue off the frame. BTW thanks to this web site and all the comments! No way I would have done this without all the help here! I am now clean and waiting for my new digitizer. I couldn't free the battery (below), so I left it powered up, and verified it till worked before throwing away the old glass. Vince

    Vince Asbridge - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Taping with package tape doesn't work. You'll need a very large piece of tape if you go this route.

    Travis Dixon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Just finished successful repair. I would add this: most folks will be here because of cracked screen. This is not easy; believe the 'complex' rating on this repair. I put tape on my screen because it was badly cracked. This made the suction cup useless, because it just sucked the tape off the scree.n. I used the razor blade technique which worked great, it should be used in the demo, and a good blade should be in the kit.

    dale kingsbury - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I thought this shouldn’t be too hard - I only had some cracks in the glass, but then at every spot I worked on, the glass turned into nothing but tons of tiny shards. I had to use the points of the tweezers plowing along only the outer edge all the way around, sometimes with a razor blade and often using a hair dryer up close (briefly, over and over). After I got every bit of glass out, I used ordinary rubbing alcohol and Q-tips but I had to rub hard and quickly 100 times on each area to slowly dissolve the glue. I only scratched the LCD once slightly with a tweezer slip. The large chucks of display held together by the packing tape needs something under it to protect the LCD while you are working.

    Robin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Using Goo Gone to get rid of the adhesive residue is 20 times faster than using rubbing alcohol, even if it is 91% isopropyl alcohol.

    Skipping the iOpener and using a hair blowdryer, and using Goo Gone in place of the rubbing alcohol are 2 simple changes that will make this job much much easier than the default instructions if the screen is shattered.

    Scott Walker -

    I found the hair dryer is far more effective and less dangerous than using the iopener. If you overheat the iopener you end up pulling a hot plastic bag spewing hot glycerine out of your microwave! Not fun!

    Clifford Sullivan - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Packing tape won’t do anything. You need to use duct tape to prevent glass shards from spraying everywhere. If your screen is only partially cracked (mine was the top only), modify the directions and focus on the areas that aren’t cracked first. I was able to get the lower 90% of the screen off, and then worked the cracked pieces with a heat gun and metal razor spudger. The entire repair took around 3 hours, and prob 2 hours and 30 min of that was getting the shards out and pieces off. And lots of cursing. I also told my kids if they crack another screen they are out of luck. I am not doing this again.

    Janie Hughes - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  6. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 6, image 1 of 2 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 6, image 2 of 2
    • Handling it by the tag, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

    • Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

    The iOpener doesn't work because the heat isn't strong enough. I used a hair dryer which proved to be much more efficient.

    jfmartin67 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The iOpener didnt work for me either. seems like it gets hot enough but it must not. I spent 30 min with the iOpener, then tried a hair dryer.

    kinchma - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    “At least a minute.” Bullshit. Get the iOpener good and hot, place it on the area you’re going to work on clear side down, and cover it with a towel. Walk away for 2 minutes. Make yourself a drink — you’ll need steady hands later.

    Blair Miller - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I've done this with an iOpener and at least in my case, it worked fine. You may have to modify the heating instructions though, since not all microwaves are created equal.

    Jeff Suovanen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    ii i just did this and it took a while but i figured it out it is true this thing doesnt get hot enough BUT heat it 2 times and then the 3rd time when u place it on the ipad put the ipad box on top and then maybe a second ipad on top of the box so it kinda smashes i down but not too much for it to break and then wait for it to turn warm THEN use the succion THEN the gap appears. the glue is super strong on the ipads so yea it will take some time lol

    Joel Tyson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Doesn't work. Perhaps include more copy on exactly how to do it?

    Travis Dixon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The iOpener does not work. It simply it is not hard enough to soften the glue. The heat hair dryer method does not work either.

    Javier Lozada - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The goal is simply to weaken the glue enough that you can use your suction cup to open up a tiny gap under the glass, so you can insert an opening pick and slice through the adhesive. It doesn't actually take all that much heat; the picks will do most of the work once you get them in there. iOpeners, hair dryers, heat guns all work fine in my experience—the iOpener is just a bit more foolproof because it won't get hot enough to cook the display panel underneath.

    Jeff Suovanen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I used iron..surprise!! yeah pretty fast tho…put a layer of fabric (towel in my case) ontop, along the edge of screen and start ironing..


    carvelera - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If using a hair dryer or heat gun make sure it is not too high heat. My heat gun has two settings, one 750 degree and an 1100. After using it on high I discolored the digitizer and warped the LCD slightly (only shows on pure white backgrounds). Low worked for the rest of the repair just fine. Also using a razor blade or something besides the pick works nice for the initial pry. Once you have a gap big enough, insert the pic and you’re all set.

    Robert - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I don’t have an iOpener, my heat gun wasn’t handy. The last time I did something like this it was a 90-100 degree day, so I just put it out in the sun for a while, and it worked great. This time it’s fall, so I used a 420W halogen Light that I have for photography. (A standard heat lamp would probably work too, but might take longer.) I held it close to the light until it felt hot to the touch, just a couple minutes, then I left is sitting about 16” below the light for 5-10 minutes to sink in and warm uniformly. It worked great.

    For me, steps 8-31 were basically one step "Carefully pry off the digitizer glass with the plastic tools" took all of 30 seconds.

    Seth Childers - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Although very hard this does work. The first time opening the ipad after buying it 8+ years ago it took about 3 times of heating the iopener. It did require an amount of pressure I did not expect but it did come open as instructed. I did add a towel and apply pressure to the iopener to make sure the heat transferred.

    hmcarbajal - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The iOpener didn’t work for me at all, zero, it literally did nothing. I resorted to my heat gun on low and yeah you need to be super careful, but once I started the adhesive came off pretty easy.

    David Yutzy - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I used a 2-level heat gun, too. Supposedly 707 degrees/923 degrees.

    I kept the heat gun about 1” away from the glass and used only the low setting. Even so, I did alter the digitizer pretty quickly in a few locations around the edge. It still functions fine, and you only see it under certain circumstances, so not a huge deal. But irritating. Be cautious about too much heat. It just looks like sort of a faint, polarized grid.

    Don’t be afraid to put tension on the glue and just hold it. If it is warm enough, the glue will relax under sustained tension. This isn’t a speed event. Don’t try to rush it, or you’ll break something.

    Now that those infrared surface thermometers have become so inexpensive, it would be great if someone posted a target temperature for softening the glue without damage. That would take some of the guesswork out of this process.

    Tim - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If you heat the iOpener somewhat longer than they recommend, and get it about as hot as your hand can stand, then place it on the iPad and cover with a towel for at least 3 minutes. Then really be patient. I got a bit impatient, and took a chance and slipped a really fine “exacto-type” of blade vertically beside the suction cup as I lifted, and thankfully that worked. That made enough room to get one of the “guitar pick” wedges in. The rest went fine.

    Pete - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I used the iOpener to soften the adhesive. I was extra careful and it took me about 90 minutes to get to Step 30. With my acquired experience I would say, it may be done in about 30 minutes. Most important: Be patient! You may have to reheat the iOpener a few times until you will be able to do Step 9. Once I had this part done, it was a lot easier. So I would say the first 60 minutes I spent on steps 1 through 9.

    marcelflueeler - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  7. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 7, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 7, image 3 of 3
    • While the iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under the front glass. To avoid damage, only heat and pry in the areas described in each step.

    • As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:

    • Front-facing camera

    • Antennas

    • Display cables

    Don't assume anything!! I thought I was pulling on the screen connector and I was pulling on an antenna component instead. Didn't ruin its connection range but I sure remember doing it and now my iPad has a little internal flaw only I'm aware of.

    Travis Dixon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Correct me if I’m wrong but the LTE version apparently has 2 antennas on each side of the front-facing camera and it’s not shown on this post to avoid prying. I just scratched one of them following these instructions.

    Pacman - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    A note about the multiple image thumbnails - roll your mouse over them to get an animated effect, rather than clicking on them individually

    Rusty - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  8. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 8, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 8, image 3 of 3
    • Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

    • Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

    • While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.

    • If your iPad's screen is badly cracked, covering it with a smooth layer of clear packing tape may help the suction cup adhere. Alternatively, use a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) and fold it into a handle.

    In this picture above, the glass isn't cracked at all so it helps the suction cup to be effective as it is hermetic. With cracked display, it won't work.

    jfmartin67 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Suction cup would not work for me. No amount of heating with iOpener or hair dryer would allow even the slightest gap to form. I ended up looking at some YouTube videos and used a razor blade. I put the razor blade perpendicular to the top glass, right at the edge of the glass and pushed down until the blade went down 1/4". Then heated some more and pried up the glass enough to put in an opening pick. I spent a lot of time working with the suction cup. Glue was just too strong.

    kinchma - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It's funny that iFixit changed the image they used. Even they themselves realized how stupid it was to try a suction cup on taped up surface. C'mon guys! You should at least make foot notes for your readers and let them know what to do if the glass is already shattered. It's a slow methodical process that involves working with a iOpener type tool. I personally have one that looks like a prison shank (lol)

    Scott S - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Not sure what you are referring to there—I see no evidence in the document history of the photos having been changed. Suction cup + packing tape can work, but it depends how badly the glass is broken and the quality of the tape. Sometimes it takes a couple attempts. You can also skip the suction cup and try using tape alone to pull on the panel, if your tape is sticky enough. There are no guarantees though, which is why we have the disclaimer right in Step 4 that the procedure can be pretty fussy if you're working with a shattered panel. Depending on where it's broken and how badly, you're going to have to improvise.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Jeff, the change is evident from image 4, where all the surface is taped up. In this picture you show a clean not broken surface and yes, the suction cup works...

    Simone Gabbriellini -

    Ah, I see what you're saying! I can understand why you guys would assume that, but in reality the entire guide was originally photographed using an intact panel. We later added a step showing how to protect yourself if you have a shattered panel (with photos to go along with, obviously). I'm afraid it wouldn't be practical to re-shoot the entire guide every time we make a small change like that.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The suction cup is useless if your glass is shattered. Use a new, sharp razor blade, and insert it vertically between the edge of the glass and the metal back of the iPad. Don’t worry about pressing too hard — there’s a lip that stops the blade from going in too far and damaging anything. You’ll probably have to do this several times, but eventually the blade will “bite” into the edge of the glass well enough for you to pry it up. Insert a pick underneath the razor, then remove the razor and continue as directed.

    Blair Miller - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    After having to read several comments on this screen removal and the clear packing tape, I too have to agree that the tape method does not work well at all if your screen is already shattered. I combined several methods, with lots of patience to remove the screen on my iPad Air 2. What I found it very helpful was the heat gun used for paint removal. The heat gun generates a lot of concentrated heat at lower air velocity, unlike generic hair dryer, so you must be very careful not to ruin the electronics, and risk burning your hands and anything around it. My heat gun that I purchased from Home Depot had a nozzle to direct and focus the heat on a small area. That was helpful in working small area at a time. This method work thoroughly well.

    Taiji Saotome - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    It would work if you leave iopener in microwave for 1 minute.

    Don’t trust the instruction from ifixit.

    you can put iopener in microwave for 1 minute without any harm.

    Note. you have to make sure that it is in cold position before you put it into microwave.

    phongsiri nirachornkul - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Suction cup didn’t work for me either, went the razor blade route (using an exacto knife blade) with very minimal damage to the aluminum shell. Be warned, if your screen has cracked along the edge (as it almost 100% certainly has if you’re reading this guide), the screen will continue to shatter and splinter as you make your way around the edge. That’s when having the screen taped up well will be to your advantage. There’s also a good chance you’ll have to re-insert the razor blade on the other side of a fracture and start the lifting process again, but keep going, being sure to avoid the points called out in this guide and you should be fine.

    Also, do not apply the suction cup to an area of the screen with cracks and no tape. If you’re near the edge you run the risk of brutally shattering that area of the glass if the glass gives before the suction cup.

    Micah Sledge - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    In order to get this to work for me I had to heat the IOpener to over 104 C - I needed to get the screen over 40 C before the adhesive would loosen.

    Also I had to put the ipad on a towel - the granite countertop it was on was sucking the heat out too fast.

    Jack Williams - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This step was brutal on my nerves - read about too many people ruining their iOpener and I don’t have a heat gun. I had to keep heating the iOpener incrementally hoping I wouldn’t pop it. … but if you’re patient, persistent, and cautious, you can definitely tell when you’re seeing separation. The iOpener ended up being WAY hotter than 30 seconds was getting me - borderline scorching my hands.

    William Thompson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Could not loosen the adhesive using the iOpener. Had to use hair dryer.

    Erwin yi - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    As the others noted, the suction cup is useless on a cracked screen, especially if you’ve applied tape (like the instructions say you should). The screen I was working on was busted up pretty bad, I ended up removing it and then going back to remove the edge glass and adhesive. When you have a really busted screen just take your time and use a heat gun or good hot hair dryer and it will eventually come off.

    I used an iSesame tool vs a razor to pry the edge (from a previous replacement project) but again, the iOpener and suction cup are useless.

    David Yutzy - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thank you for the comments above. I was using the iOpener unsuccessfully, then turned to the hair dryer and heated it up for over 3 minutes. This gave me the gap I needed to insert the opening pick and begin the process. So, with patience and a hair dryer, I was able to get the digitizer off.

    0812mgr - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    You really need a lot of patience here (30-45min). But then it works. The best way was with this plastic "crowbar" to get the beginning. You really have to press hard to get in between.

    Arne Meier - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  9. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 9, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 9, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 9, image 3 of 3
    • Place an opening pick in the gap opened by the suction cup.

    • Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

    • Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

    I found it much easier to use a single edge razor blade instead of the pick. After getting that inserted, it was easy to slip the pick between the blade and the case. Disclaimer - Razor blades are very sharp and you could easily hurt yourself or your iPad if you use one.

    donprius - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This is an amazing tip! After trying for 10 minutes to use the pick with no luck, I grabbed a small razor blade and that worked perfectly to get me started!! Thanks!!

    Ashley Garner - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The suction cup also didn’t work to create a gap - it cracked the screen when i tried to lift (the screen was already cracked). This was after rotating between the iOpener and a microwavable hot pack for food. The iOpener was around 175 degrees, it brought the surface of the iPad to 130. I was finally able to lift the glass using a razor blade and then the picks like donprius. I continued to use the iOpener to loosen the glue around the rest of the iPad but I think a heat gun would have been more efficient.

    Marc Ducret - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    You have to heat the glue really much, or you will, as i did, crack the glass.

    Linus Grüne - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Best bet is to mark the pick with a sharpie line on how far your maximum limit is so you don’t damage the LCD.

    Jon Snyder - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The iOpener works well, be patient and keep reheating until you can see the screen start to give a little. I kept putting mine in the microwave and it worked faster when the iOpener was hotter. 40 second intervals did the trick for me eventually

    Jackson Taylor - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I spent an hour trying to lift the screen of an iPad Air first gen. The trick I found was that its a combination of lifting the screen a millimetre and then wiggling a razor blade vertically in the slot between the screen and the metal frame (yes its a microscopic slot). I used a hair drier on a section of the edge of the middle of the screen as above. The middle area allows for a bit of flexibility in the rail - we’re talking 0.5mm which is just enough for the razor.

    So hit a section of the screen edge with the drier till its hot to touch, do the suction cap thing as above, insert the blade vertically and wiggle it *ever so slightly* in the slot as you don’t want to break anything. Keep repeating this until you see even the slightest rise in the screen under the cap. At this point, remove the razor and insert the blue pick. It should easily dig in and under the screen, but no further than the black border.

    Remember, small wiggly steps will avoid breaking anything. Better a number of small heat and wiggles than a lift and snap.

    Rusty - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    for those who need to open more than one iPad, the iflex is safer and more effective than a razor blade. i use it to get started then switch to a pick

    iFlex Opening Tool

    Stow - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Yea, this suction cup cracked my glass. This made it near impossible to slide the picks around. I may try again another day, but I suspect it’s toast at this point.

    Jason Prothero - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  10. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 10, image 1 of 1
    • Reheat and replace the iOpener.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    This says "Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener", however the iOpener itself has a warning printed upon it that says wait at least 10 minutes. And that 10 minutes warning is also mentioned in Step 2 above.

    Scott - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Sorry about that! We fixed the text on this step. The two-minute interval was for an older version of the iOpener—the text printed on your iOpener will have the correct interval, which is indeed ten minutes. It can burst if overheated or reheated too quickly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It still says 2 Minutes up there in the warning

    Sandro Krumbein - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  11. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 11, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 11, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 11, image 3 of 3
    • Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

    You guys really need to show how it's done when your iPad isn't perfect like the one pictured above.. C'mon..

    Scott S - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0


    Corey Barcus -

    How do you slide the picks when the glass is broken? Even with the glass taped, it pulls away from the tape rather than the housing. I've just further shattered the glass with my attempts.

    chrisweiler - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    With my shattered screen, I was able to remove it using the suction cup slightly and a metal pry, had to break the edge glass some for removal also but it didn’t do damage. More layers of shipping tape helped to make the screen stay together better and come off more intact.

    Jackson Taylor - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  12. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 12, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 12, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 12, image 3 of 3
    • Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

    • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

    This gives a false illusion to the difficulty of these repairs when you guys make guides using perfect devices. What about devices with dinged corners? A reader is gonna slap on a new screen and shatter it the second they apply pressure thinking it will fit into a dented corner lol

    Scott S - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  13. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 13, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 13, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 13, image 3 of 3
    • Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

    • If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

    I managed to get a couple of fingerprints on the LCD.

    What's the best way to clean 'em off?

    What's the safest way?

    Mike McIntosh - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    What I’ve read, and seems to work, is gentle circular pressure with a very clean, dry microfiber cloth. Lacking that, use a TINY drop of water ON THE CLOTH, not on the LCD. Small amounts of alcohol can be used, in my experience, but only if the above don’t work, and with better results if used in small amounts and applied to the cloth, not the LCD.

    Bonnie Baxter - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Can confirm. Microfiber with a little isopropyl worked great to clean off any adhesive or fingerprints from mine. Thanks for the tip.

    Robert -

  14. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 14, image 1 of 1
    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

  15. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 15, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 15, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 15, image 3 of 3
    • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

  16. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 16, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 16, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 16, image 3 of 3
    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

    • The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.

    • Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front facing camera.

  17. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 17, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 17, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 17, image 3 of 3
    • Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

    At this point I’d use paper tape on the margins of the screen to mask off areas where you should use caution with the pick. Its just a visual reminder not to run the picker too deep in these areas. They are: the camera lens, lower right hand side and where the two antenna are along the base. Step 6 third image highlights these areas.

    Rusty - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  18. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 18, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 18, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 18, image 3 of 3
    • Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

    • Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, and then slide it to the corner of the iPad to finish cutting the adhesive on that edge.

  19. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 19, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 19, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 19, image 3 of 3
    • Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

  20. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 20, image 1 of 1
    • Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

  21. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 21, image 1 of 2 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 21, image 2 of 2
    • Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.

    • Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

  22. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 22, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 22, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 22, image 3 of 3
    • Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

    • The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~4.5" from the bottom of the iPad.

    Why there’s such an obsession with not damaging the cables is beyond me. Be careful, so as not to damage what the cables are connected to. But the cables are part of the replacement digitizer, so if you nick or even slice through them (like I did with the one closest to the bottom) don’t worry about it.

    Blair Miller - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Keep in mind that some people are here to open an intact display to replace internal components! In those cases, keeping the cables un-harmed is quite important ;)

    Sam Goldheart -

    My digitizer WAS ok and I was only replacing the battery I wasn't careful enough when coming around the side with the pics and got a hold of the cable just enough with the pic to pull it off the underside of the panel. The battery replacement went great other than now I have to replace the digitizer. :(


    Dylan Bouterse - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    And if you are replacing the digitizer, you have to reuse the fingerprint sensor home button. I sliced through mine and now I’ll not have fingerprint sensor. Each home button is matched to the main board and if switched out you will loose that sensor ability.

    David - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Like others, I damaged my digitizer cable while doing a battery replacement. It would be a good idea to use some blue tape to mark the spots to avoid during the glue slicing procedure.

    donprius - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I also damaaged the digitizer cable while doing a battery replacement. Use just the tip of the opening pick.

    Dean Gross - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    People need to realize iFixit routinely duplicates instructions for more than one type of repair/replacement. However, all of the comments are combined, which leads to confusion.

    laura moon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  23. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 23, image 1 of 1
    • Leave the opening picks in place, and set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad.

  24. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 24, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 24, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 24, image 3 of 3
    • Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.

    • Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.

    • The third image shows the two antennas and the home button cavity in the lower case of the iPad.

    • The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

  25. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 25, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 25, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 25, image 3 of 3
    • Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

    • With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.

    • Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.

    • If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.

    • Leave the pick in place before moving on.

  26. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 26, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 26, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 26, image 3 of 3
    • Take a new pick and slip it in to the right of the previous pick.

    • Slide across the home button and right-hand antenna using only the very tip to remove the adhesive.

  27. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 27, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 27, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 27, image 3 of 3
    • With the adhesive loosened, you can now insert the pick near the right-hand corner. Slide the pick to the left, and stop just short of the Home button.

    • Just like with the left antenna, only slide from the outer edge toward the center. Reversing this direction may damage the antenna.

    This step needs a BIG CAVEAT to not insert the pick far enough to damage the home button/touch ID cable, as it is DIRECTLY above where you’re directing people to insert the pick. I just ruined a ribbon cable by following this guide too closely.

    tabormeister - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Sadly only after damaging my home button flex cable, I read your comment. There should be a big warning here as it is very easy to tear this cable.

    Bouke - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I also damaged the home button cable. Check the placement of the cables in steps 37-44.

    Paul Klein - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  28. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 28, image 1 of 1
    • Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the volume control side of the iPad.

  29. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 29, image 1 of 2 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 29, image 2 of 2
    • Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.

    • On the side of the iPad opposite the volume controls, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along the display cable edge.

    • If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas.

    You will end up having to scrape the outter ledge to remove the old screen. I bled and got glass shards everywhere. Good luck!

    Travis Dixon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  30. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 30, image 1 of 2 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 30, image 2 of 2
    • Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the display cable edge.

    This is very tricky if the screen is cracked (which I would assume most people are replacing the screen because of a crack). Use duct tape to try and secure the shards as much as possible, but be prepared for shards flying everywhere. Search for videos on cracked screen removal, there’s a good ifixit one. Maybe they can link it here? I finally was able to get it all by using a heat gun and metal spudger/razor like the guy in the video.

    Janie Hughes - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  31. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 31, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 31, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 31, image 3 of 3
    • While supporting the front panel glass, use an opening pick to cut the last of the adhesive.

    • Be very careful not to cut or damage any of the display cables.

    Detailed pictures that better indicate the difference between the remaining adhesive and the two mylar cables (the very cables you are trying to avoid damaging!) would be much appreciated. On my unit the two were VERY hard to distinguish.

    dlcatftwin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This step does not need to be performed here. I cut this adhesive once I had removed the lcd and display cables. This makes it much easier to avoid damaging anything. Just prop the glass up on something while you perform steps 31 - 42, then cut remaining adhesive and remove.

    Robert - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The front camera has a black bezel cover but it is attached to the broken glass digitizer. Peel it off and save it. I plan to tack glue it to the camera instead of gluing it back to the new digitizer glass. It has two alignment bumps so maybe it doesn’t need gluing to either side but I found it on the ground when it came off of the the broken digitizer. I almost tossed it as part of the broken glass.

    Robin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  32. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 32, image 1 of 2 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 32, image 2 of 2
    • Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the glass panel like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.

    • During reassembly, clean the remains of the adhesive from the case (and the front glass if you are re-using it) with isopropyl alcohol, and replace the adhesive using our display adhesive application guide and pre-cut adhesive strips.

    • It's easy to pinch a flex cable between the front glass and the iPad's frame during reassembly. Be mindful of the flex cables and make sure they gently fold and tuck under the frame. If the folds in a flex cable are pressed completely flat, it may be damaged beyond repair.

    my replacement digitizer has rigid flex with adhesive tape where the connectors extend. how does this “fold” back inside the frame?

    David - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Same here. I removed the adhesive tape, but now what?

    Dvi -

    It looks like I have the same or similar question: the “hinge” part of the digitizer cables (the flap portion) looks like it is supposed to tuck into the crevice between the LCD panel and the side of the aluminum body - my replacement (from iFixit) has sticky contact on the upper side of this flap, making me think that its supposed to adhere to the side of the LCD panel, but the instructions do not make this clear - is my assumption correct?

    dlcatftwin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Or, does the flap adhere to the underside of the front panel’s right edge?

    dlcatftwin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I attempted to put this protrusion underneath the LCD, and it kept coming up above the LCD. As there were no instructions, I put it as best as I could underneath the LCD as I cannot imagine that it folds up against itself?

    Dvi - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I tried to put it ‘inside’ the case but was not able to - at the end, I just glued it against the front glass.

    I must have done something wrong with the new home-button assembly as the fingerprint sensor does not work anymore - However, I am not going to go through that repair again so passcode it is.

    Michael Berneis - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My screen from ifixit had the rigid flaps with adhesive also. I removed adhesive and adhered it to the new glass, it worked fine and solved the problem with the flaps not pushing down.

    Jackson Taylor - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    if there is adhesive glue on the inside of the digitizer and the top of the LCD what do you recommend to clean it.

    scprillwitz - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Don’t throw away your old screen until you take the home button off of it! My screen was shattered and I kind of have a phobia of broken glass, so I bundled it all up and threw it into the trash can immediately. Next day when I went to continue the job I was sad that my roommate had finally taken out the trash for once and my home button was halfway to the dump by then.

    Sparky - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Cleaning with isopropyl alcohol is not really working well. I am using it with a qtip. Is there a certain way you recommend in order to actually the adhesive off?

    Brooke Parkhouse - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Yes, the flap seemed to want to be attached to the glass, not go down the slot. All went together well, except that my home button doesn’t work. I suspect the connections wasn’t right, although I did my best to (gently but firmly) push it in. Too late to do anything about it now.

    Mussollini - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I got my repair kit yesterday, had a go at it today on my iPad Air 1 (A1474). I’ve opened up phones before (the kind that open up easily), but first time dealing with a glued-together device. Anyway I got there, and now I’m putting things back together. I have a question regarding the pre-cut adhesive to hold the glass back on. Is it meant to be applied to the glass, or the frame?

    SHL - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Ok never mind - I just looked at the digitizer for this iPad and saw that the adhesive is preapplied to the glass, which confirms my suspicions. Now I can proceed and bring this repair to a conclusion.

    SHL -

    And it’s done! Doing the battery calibration now, but I’m relieved that the battery is working. I did turn on the iPad prior to removing the blue strips on the adhesive to make sure it was working before committing to fix the glass in place.

    To reiterate the point, the adhesive strips go on the glass. The way they are packaged with the clear plastic makes it go very smoothly.

    There are 2 oversize pieces of plastic sandwiching the adhesive sections. These keep the strips in their original shape free of dust off until you are ready to use them. Once you remove these, there is another clear plastic strip which has an inside edge that matches the adhesive section’s inside edge. This plastic allows you to position the adhesive accurately on the glass while keeping your fingers away from it. This is especially important on the right side where the digitizer cables are. Once you remove this clear plastic, there is still the blue film with pull tabs. You can leave these on to do a power up test, then remove them. …cont

    SHL -

    … After doing the power on check, you can also check that all the buttons work, home button, camera, speakers etc. Then I turned it off (probably wasn’t necessary), removed the blue strips and pressed the glass in. For this last step I suggest lining up the left edge of the glass with its corresponding edge in the aluminum shell, and then gently pressing down on the right side. ALSO: while doing this last step, look carefully at the right side for the ribbon cables there. In my case (reusing original digitizer), they were protruding just a smidge, so I used the spudger to just nudge it a bit and they got into place, and then I pressed the right side down. I then pressed down all around the edges of the glass.

    SHL -

    quick question... if this is a replacement, why are we worrying about the digitizer cables? My glass is shattered pretty bad on the to the left of the home button where he says to work. So I can't apply suction cup there. I don't understand the need to be concerned about the cables if the digitizer is going to be trashed...

    Michael M - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  33. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, LCD: step 33, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, LCD: step 33, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, LCD: step 33, image 3 of 3
    • Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.

  34. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 34, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the four Phillips #00 4.3 mm screws securing the LCD.

    Both of the iPad 6th gen models i have seen so for (note they were cellular also) had the LCD secured with a grey silicone kind of adhesive in each corner under the screws. So you can’t just lift the LCD as you normally would after removing screws, it would break. I found you could pick at the corner closest to the rear camera easiest, slightly lift that corner and gently separate the other side next to the headphone jack. Then while supporting the LCD , lever the other end free with a up-and-down motion making slight progress each time.

    Anvil Electronics - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I found the same thing on my 32GB wifi only ipad. Was unable to lift the screen off once I’d removed the screws so followed the instructions above and gently prized the screen up from the top left-hand screw bracket and it came away. Then moved onto the top right hand one.

    mann134 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    One YouTube video said to dig all that glue out. I didn’t and it seems to not hurt to leave it there but you do have to break free from it.

    Robin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  35. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 35, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 35, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 35, image 3 of 3
    • Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers. There may be glue around the screw holes that needs to be cut with a knife.

    • Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.

    • Be gentle and keep an eye on the LCD cables as you flip the display over.

    • Lay the LCD on its face to allow access to the display cables.

    • Set the LCD down on a soft, clean, lint-free surface.

    When you replace the LCD be sure to make sure it is screwed in fully. It is easy not, especially on the cornet where the digitizer cables are. The LCD is very sensitive and if you bend it then it can stop working. I was just pressing the digitized in place at the end of a repair and the screen was covered in white lines.

    hugh - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  36. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Battery connector information: step 36, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Battery connector information: step 36, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Battery connector information: step 36, image 3 of 3
    • These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.

    • Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

  37. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 37, image 1 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 37, image 2 of 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 37, image 3 of 3
    • Remove the single 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

    • To reduce the risk of a short, you can use a battery isolation pick to disconnect the battery.

    • Slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board's battery connector at a 35 degree angle.

    • Don't push the battery blocker underneath the connector with excessive force. If you're having trouble fitting the battery blocker underneath the logic board, you can try using a playing card to disconnect the battery instead.

    • The battery blocker or playing card ideally should slide under the logic board without encountering any blockages. After insertion, it should rest at a 15 degree angle.

    • Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.

    If you insert a regular pick without a gap then you can damage this connector and will need a new motherboard. If in doubt just insert into the left corner enough to raise it a tiny bit. Arguably, if you are not sure, then it is safer just power off and don’t power back on until everything is fully connected. A photo of how this connector looks with its cover off would really help for people that have not seen this type of battery connector before. You just need to get it to lift a tiny bit, Do not try to slide anything under the contacts….

    hugh - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I bumped this darn thing several times, it was twisted and skewed making me freak out but the iPad still works. I am thinking you should pull it out and put the screw back in right after the LCD is removed. Then use it again just before putting the LCD screen back in. The pick is sticking out there waitng to be be bumped.

    Robin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hi Robin,

    Unfortunately, there is no easy way to pull the battery connector out of the logic board. If you try to pry this connector off, you will irreparably damage it. The easiest solution is to insert the battery blocker in-between to cut the power.

    Arthur Shi -

    The battery isolation pick or battery blocker is an outdated way of isolating the battery, as you risk damaging the battery pins underneath the logic board.

    So what is the new method?

    Wil Thieme - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This is my question as well. Seems like this phrase contradicts the instructions. Confusing. Any reply?

    Melissa Hoffman -

    We are currently working on a better isolation procedure! In the meantime, I’ve updated the warning to hopefully clarify the issue.

    Arthur Shi -

    Why do you need to “To reduce the risk of a short”? There does not seem to by any risk of a “short” in this process. I can see other reasons for disconnecting the battery. I am an electrical engineer so I would appreciate a professional grade answer to this question.

    Rumboogy - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I’ll give it a shot!

    When you remove the screw, it doesn’t disconnect the battery, as the connector uses spring contacts to touch the battery pads.

    If you leave the battery connected, it leaves the logic board energized. As there are many exposed traces and SMT components on the logic board, there is a chance that you accidentally bridge a trace with a metal tool, resulting damage. In addition, the display connector contains tiny pins, and the pinout is such that if you pry the connector from an energized logic board, there is a chance that a voltage rail pin may accidentally touch something it shouldn’t, blowing out the backlight circuitry.

    Arthur Shi -

    My battery was dead when i did the repair. Did not really need to perform this step

    Igor Kapitanker - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Take a waterproof playing card, cut out the shape of the battery blocker and slide that under. Battery blocked and pins not at risk of damage. Got that from a YouTube video made by a microsolder repair tech fixing the damage caused by jamming a blocker in between the contacts.

    Melody Fraysier - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thanks for the tip Melody! I’ve updated the instructions to include the playing card method.

    Arthur Shi -

    I could not for the life of me get the playing card in there, but my iPad was turned off, so I decided to ‘risk’ a short, instead of potentially damaging the battery connectors by jamming the card in there as hard as possible. My repair went fine, no short, however I realized AFTER closing everything up that I forgot to put the battery screw back in. Really hoping this doesn’t become an issue long term, because I don’t want to pry this brand new screen off just to put the battery in.

    Janie Hughes - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Let us know! I wasn't able to use the screw again after removing the battery blocker. Now my iPad turns off and on every so many minutes and when it restarts it's 1% and then shows actual charge.

    Martin Hinojosa -

  38. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 38, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws from the display cable bracket.

    I believe these are also Phillips #00, not Phillips #000.

    Kevin Chatterton II - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I lost a 1.4mm screw where can I buy these small screws and how big are they? 1.4mm x? flared or flat head - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Is this part important? It seems like I lost it.

    Will - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  39. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 39, image 1 of 2 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 39, image 2 of 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board.

    • The display cable connector is adhered to the underside of the bracket, so don’t push the spudger too far under the bracket, or you may damage the connector.

  40. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: step 40, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the LCD.


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.


Sam Goldheart


453,813 crwdns2915208:0crwdne2915208:0



iFixit crwdns2886886:0iFixitcrwdne2886886:0





No comments…. No one is brave enough to attempt this :)

Tal Glazer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

I tried to replace the LCD with the iPad AIR 1 LCD and is NOT compatible. It fits and the connector is the same but shows just like tv static noise.

nazareno valentini - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

I have same issue, but with LCD iPad 5, some idea to make it compatible.

Luis Prieto -

I replaced the front screen and now the number 9 on the passcode keypad isn’t working. I don’t get it.

Richard Lombardo - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

I’m having the same issue! Different numbers, but same issue. Just certain sections of the screen won’t respond to touch.

Adriane Zaic -

I did this (screen replacement) on my iPad 6 LTE about a month ago. Was wicked difficult because my the screen was completely shattered and removing all of the shards was, well, a major PITA. It wasn’t all that bad otherwise as long as you TAKE YOUR TIME getting it apart in the first place. The only real issue I had otherwise was getting it back together with new adhesive strips because the screen doesn’t set on top straight down. You have to almost put one side down with the screen at an angle then lay it down but because of the adhesive strips, you can’t lay it down then adjust it. So that was not fun. Otherwise it wasn’t all that bad IF you are like me and savvy with electronics repair. *** also, once back together and fired up, I have some dead spots where there is zero registration of any touch on the screen. No clue as to why, and it’s frustrating because of the cost of these things and the replacement parts. Better than no usable screen I guess.

Please excuse any typos should you encounter any.

Bryan Purvis - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Hi Bryan,

If you haven’t yet, I would suggest checking two things. It sounds like either the digitizer cable may be having bad connectivity, or the digitizer may be shorting on something. Check, clean, and re-seat all of your display cable connectors as well as making sure the connectors have no debris. What is this (possibly conductive) gray foam adhesive called and where. Maybe that will remove the dead spots.

Arthur Shi -

This was extremely difficult! But it was a little easier for me as I am an IT professional. Some helpful pro tips: definitely spend time just heating the adhesives over a period of a couple of days. The hardest part of the repair was separating the broken screen from the rest of the ipad. On re-assembly, check to make sure that the home button and touch are functioning properly before putting on new adhesives. This way you can correct any mistakes. Otherwise, you will have to undo the work you just did. Take your time, don’t rush so that you don’t make mistakes or break anything. The guide is very helpful and I was able to repair my ipad 6th generation.


Kevin Godfrey - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Ugh. This has been a PITA. I damaged the connector for lcd screen. bought replacement screen and now won’t work. HELP! Do I need to remove the old heat shield and attach it to the new lcd? What was I thinking?

Tera Virgin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Ive used 3 brand new LCDs and can’t get any of them to show a picture, when i plug in the old broken one it lights up just fine but is shattered beyond use. im starting to wonder if you can’t just replace the LCD without some sort of trick that only apple knows about

Jessica Pickering - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

at least you have some dead spots. I just replaced LCD and digitizer. LCD was fine except I threw the LCD cable bracket away because I thought it came with the new one as it was attached to the old one. Needless to say I have no LCD cable bracket. The digitizer does not respond at all though and LCD screen works.

Jacob Fulford - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0



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