crwdns2915892:0crwdne2915892:0
Use this guide to replace the dual microphone assembly in your iPad 5 Wi-Fi.
Be very careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily damaged, resulting in irreversible damage to the logic board. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.
crwdns2942213:0crwdne2942213:0
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the device for two minutes.
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While you're waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note the following areas that are sensitive to prying:
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Front camera
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Antennas
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Display cables
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
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Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
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Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
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Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
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Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.
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Insert an opening pick under the digitizer when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next step.
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Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the left edge of the screen and as close to the edge as possible.
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Lift the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame.
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Insert a second opening pick into the gap you just created.
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Slide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad to continue separating the adhesive.
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Slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the top-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the device for two minutes.
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Rotate the pick around the top-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, stopping just before you reach the front camera.
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Pull the pick out until only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.
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Slide the pick above the front camera to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick near the right side of the front camera before continuing.
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Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the top-right corner of the device to completely separate the top adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the top-right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.
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Rotate the pick around the top-right corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
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Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the iPad's right edge.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the device for two minutes.
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Slide the bottom-left pick to the bottom-left corner to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner before moving to the next step.
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Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created on the bottom edge of the iPad.
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Slide the pick over the antenna, stopping just before the home button.
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Leave the pick to the left of the home button before continuing.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap you just created.
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Slide the pick underneath the home button and towards the bottom-right corner, making sure only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.
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Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the home button to completely separate the bottom adhesive.
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Leave the pick to the right of the home button before continuing.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.
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Twist the two opening picks on the left corners of the iPad to lift the digitizer slightly, separating the the last of the adhesive in the process.
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Lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to further separate the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad.
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While supporting the digitizer, slide an opening pick between the two display cables to separate the last of the adhesive.
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Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the digitizer like a book and rest it parallel to the iPad.
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Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.
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Remove the following Phillips screws securing the LCD.
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Three 4.0 mm screws
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One 4.8 mm screw
Use the provided replace screen case's square compartments to place your screws into as you remove them. Really helpful and you likely won't mess up.
I tape a stripe of double sided tape on my workbench. You can place the screws on the tape on the location where the screw would be if it was in the screen assembly. In this step, your screws would be in the four corners of the tape stripe, with the longest screw (4,8mm) in the upper left corner. The other screws from the next steps can also be placed on the tape this way.
**I believe you mean the “top Right corner” Is where the longer screw goes.. not left.
! went to Office World bought 4 packs of bluetac stuck them on a sheet of paper to give approximately size and shape of iPad put it in a flat cardboard box
Where can I buy these screws please ?
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.
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Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
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Lay the LCD on its face to allow access to the display cables.
Got a cracked screen from toddler stepping on the iPad. My repair went well, everything worked. Except I scratched the LCD. It seems to scratch easily.
At this step, be careful when folding over the screen, as it may scratch on the aluminum frame (third picture). When they say “soft lint free surface” that is needed, specifically where the LCD meets the frame. Place a thin cloth like sunglass cleaning cloth over the edge of the frame.
Thank you, very much, for this tip.
At this step, possibly depending on date of manufacture, there may be black silicone present on/around the four screws that mount the display. It needs to be carefully scraped away and the two screw mount holes at the top of the screen pried up and away from the chassis. Between the chassis and the plastic portion of the mounting frame, there is a slim sheet of metal. Be sure to pry this off WITH the mounting frame. It is part of it. DO NOT try to separate it.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Battery Blocker$3.99
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Remove the single 2.3 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
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Slide the battery blocker underneath the battery connector area of the logic board, and leave it in place while you work.
Not having the isolation pick, I used 2 thin guitar picks instead, which did the job fine.
I couldn't disconnect the battery connector - I applied some force, nothing happened and I was afraid of applying too much force - so I just left it connected and I was very careful not to short out any terminals with metal tools. I completed the repair without any other issues and the iPad now seems to be working fine.
Mine was missing. Made one with scissors but still didn't do the trick. I just worked with the batteries still plugged in.
Couldn’t get the battery terminal disconnected so I continued with repair. I didn’t short anything but now it won’t do anything. It worked before, just a cracked glass to replace. Any solutions?
Why do you say you didn’t short anything? Your result would seem to suggest otherwise
I don’t know if it applies to the iPad Air, but I saw elsewhere in my researches in reference to a iPad mini (or was it an iPod mini?) that disconnecting the LCD and/or digitizer with the battery still connected will blow a “fuse” for the backlight. Might yours still be working, just with no screen illumination whatsoever? Dunno. Just a thought.
It apparently can be repaired, but is no longer a DIY job.
Tim -
try lifting the board and not blocking the connector. If you block the connector there are pins that could be damaged.
A replacement of the battery connector is required if pins are bent should you get power on or charge issue after battery disconnection. This can be replaced with the right tools and low melt solder to remove the connector and replace.
Best method to disconnect battery is to carefully lift the logic board near the battery connector enough to slip a piece of thin plastic or paper between the batter connector and the logic board battery connector and pins.
Failing to isolate battery so can result in blown back light or touch filters or diodes in backlight circuit.
At the very least run down the battery flat prior to repair but you are really best to isolate battery.
From a repair point of view. This connector is a royal pain. For assembly it's great, well, nearly great.
This connector is SOLDERED to the motherboard side. Never lever this on the motherboard side, I will call it the right hand side. It will break leaving it's soldered pins behind. Yes I did it.
The pins, on the battery side of this connector, just rest on the batteries plated pads. They are kept under tension by the screw. It should be noted though that removal of the screw will not disconnect the connector pins from the battery pads. Natural tension is still present.
I suggest strongly that you take a look at the battery connector online to see the nature of the pins and you will see that some are quite delicate.
The tools purpose is to raise the battery side of the connector ; the left side, so there is some clearance between the pins and the batteries pads. If you have seen a picture of this connector then you will realise the potential of damage to this connector and will have a better idea of what to do.
Contd.
Lifting the connector and simultaneously sliding a thin piece of card or plastic under the pins should be done carefully. In fact, to minimise damage I just slid it under ONE of the main battery pins, plus or minus, which are in the middle and quite robust compared with the tiddlers on the side of the connector.
The second point, the battery and the motherboard have protection circuitry. When I broke my connector the battery dropped to 0.5V at the terminals. Connecting the charger, when all the connections were sound and not shorted raised it from the dead back to over 3.2V
I replaced the battery, and got things hooked backup. For the test, the screen came on, digitizer seemed to be functioning fine. But I couldn’t get it to charge. I used the i-fixit battery blocker by using my spooger to put a little up pressure on the board, and then sliding the blocker in. I don’t think I damaged the pins, but its possible. This is a friends ipad, and its obviously been dropped a few times. I started eye balling the charging port, it LOOKS ok, but looks can be deceiving. When plugged in, even trying different cables, the ipad is not showing the charging symbol. Some of the comments here seem to imply, if I damaged the battery connection pins, I would still get a charging symbol. My question is, if I damaged those battery connector pins, would the ipad show the charging icon or not? Should I be looking at replacing the charging port?
If you gently use the plastic opening tool as shown in step 94 to lift the board slightly it makes it MUCH easier to slide the battery blocker in.
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Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips screws from the display cable bracket.
Be careful when re-installing screws on reassembly. I mistakenly put the longer screw from the battery connector in the outboard hole, and wound up twisting off the lug that is only lightly soldered to the metal below. Still have 2 screws and system seems to work fine.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board.
bough my digitizer from ebay and have everything done up to this step. The screwdriver the kit came with said to be a #000 but it stripped the screw on the plate... I have tried rubber bands, tape and paper to no avail...anyone got an idea on how to remove the screw. Also I am currently studying in St. Kitts and they lack some products found in the US.
I'm sure you've moved past this by now, but I've had some success with stripped screws using a comparable, if slightly larger flathead screwdriver. The screwdrivers that come in those kits tend to suck quite a lot... iFixit actually has a guide for stripped screws: How to Remove a Stripped Screw
Does anyone know where I could purchase a replacement display cable bracket?
Note:Be rly carefule with unplugin homebutton-connection.
The plug-connection (Homebutton) is not similar to the plug connections the basic-plugs got.
The homeputton-plug-connection is sensetiv and cant unplug easly.
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Remove the LCD.
Andddddd continue this iFix folks! It's not a matter of working backwards. Most people must have cracked screens and end up having to rip the screen off and won't have a chance to inspect connections.
He is far from complete…..if lcd is being replaced its probably because top screen is busted too. He didn’t show anything about how to remove the cables for that.
If the battery blocking method is outdated and dangerous, why not show us the new, safer method? Just a thought.
There is a separate guide for replacing the outer glass ;)
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Remove any tape covering the home button ribbon cable connector.
I totally skipped steps 39-98 I didn’t see any need to remove all these components and the logic board just to get the battery out. I gently pried up the board where the battery connector goes in, slipped it out, and slipped in the new one.
That is a great tip. There is plenty of space inside the case to lever out the battery without taking out all of the components. I laid the iPad on top of a large bean bag, heated for 3 minutes in the microwave. After 4-5 minutes, I was able to lever out the battery with the spudger and the credit cards. It came out after a few minutes of careful levering and cramming the credit cards under the battery. I unscrewed the earphone connector and carefully taped it back to the iPad housing with paint tape to have more room to maneuver.
I second this.
Just be careful to make sure you don’t squish or tear any wires or anything else surrounding when you’re fighting with the batteries, and it’s still way easier than removing everything else in there first.
I’ll add one bit, though. The hole in the battery connector that accepts the screw through the logic board also apparently slips over a pin in which the screw seats. I couldn’t see that. So when I got the last bit of battery adhesive to let go, the pin tore out the battery connector hole. Since I was replacing the battery, it wasn’t a problem, but did produce a little conductive piece that I had to fish out before putting anything back together. Wouldn’t want that little torn out piece running around in there to short something out later.
Also, that pin will locate the battery correctly, so that in one of the last steps of reassembly, the battery connection screws together properly. Make sure you find it before the battery adhesive grabs on to the back of the case.
Tim -
Careful removing the tape. The home button has a zif connector and if you aren’t careful the tape can rip the zif flap right off. You might have to hold it down while you pull it off or pull the tape from a different direction to make sure you dont tear the zif tab off.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to flip the tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector upward.
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Carefully pull the home button ribbon cable horizontally out of the ZIF connector.
I got through the repair, only to have the new screen give me problems that I can not find solutions to any where. The digitizer is working on its own without my input, it will start apps, switch windows, etc. I have pulled up the new screen and checked my ribbons and cables seem to be fine. ANY IDEAS??
Moses Roman
Same exact problem that I have. I think it has something to do with the glass touching the ipad. Something like on the iPad mini, where you had to cover some areas beside the home button.
I would love to see a real solution, as im stuck with unhappy customers and frustrated me :)
I had mine replaced TWICE by a local repair shop. Soon noticed both times that the iPad would soon go haywire after a few minutes use with random clicks, ghost typing, opening apps, etc.
The iPad Air's such a poor quality, un-durable product anyway. I only had my screen replaced in the first place because it cracked with no apparent drop or trauma and Apple wouldn't replace.
I have also the same issue, does anyone know what the problem is?
Please give us some feedback.
Have seen this with multiple repairs where the digitizer was replaced. In each case it was a problem with the digitizer cables where it gets tucked under the glass near the edge of the frame. Not yet sure if they are badly made digitizers or if the cable gets damaged trying to tuck it under frame during installation.
To avoid the digi sending the ipad crazy. In the same way you tape the copper/silver edges on the back of the glass for the iPad Mini. You tape all the way around, making sure not to dirty the protective cover when placing back down after taping one edge.
Make sure all the metal surround is cover by tape, but careful not too go over the edges too much. It will be visible when using the device.
Like i said earlier, the real skill is not too dirty the screen when lifting the protective sheet.
Have fun!
Thanks man, I'll give it a try. Any idea what kind of tape should I buy?
Kapton tape otherwise known as heat tape or polyamide tape
Just fitted the screen, the digitizer works, display all good but I had a message saying I could not use touch ID and the home button doesn’t work at all…is this expected?
I break the ZIF connector. Is tat touch connecter.?
How do you take the ribbon cable off from the home button site???
Pull the ribbon horizontally out, not up
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Use a the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to carefully pop the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets.
What are those connectors for because i kinda half broke the left one on the screen on the glass frame and now the lcd wont turn on
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Carefully peel the home button ribbon cable up off of the adhesive holding it to the rear case.
THIS PICTURE IS PERFECT AND PERTANANT TO THE NEXT STEP REGARDING “GHOST OR PHANTOM TOUCH” - See that foam around the edges? For some reason, the ifixit replacement digitizer doesn’t come with it (but it does come with new adhesive applied already.) With your screen, also purchase their “tesa tape” : Tesa 61395 Tape / 4 mm - it comes in different widths fyi. I choose 4mm as advised by a staff member.
On the replacement screen I received from you, the home screen ribbon cable does not fully seat inside the Zif connector like the original and will not lock in place as a result. It seems too fat. Any tips to make it work?
I can’t think of any reason for that other than it’s the wrong display for your model, or it’s defective. Double-check the model very carefully and make sure you ordered/received a compatible part. If you ordered from iFixit, contact customer support directly for returns or exchanges. Good luck!
I didn’t receive any of the two sided tape…I assume it needed to be ordered separately??
So, when I removed the glass, the bottom cable tore and I have to replace it. The video is not as clear regarding replacement. The old button had a round rubber gasket but the new one does not. No inst. how to re-use it. I can’t attach and keep in place the new button.
In a previous repair, i broke the zif, what you want to do is hold it down while removing the tape, otherwise it will pull the parts up with it.
Since it was broke i put a piece of electrical tape on top for the pressure the zif would push down, then another piece from the screw hole to the bend in the cable, so it does not come loose when putting back together.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Polyimide Tape$9.99
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Remove the front panel assembly.
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If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit panels come with the proper insulation, and should not require the addition of any tape.
In your conclusion, which doesn't have a comments area, you say to reverse the procedure - simple enough, BUT what about the sticky adhesive residue along the edges of the (a) the just-remove-glass (if re-using) and (b) along the 'inside' edges of the iPad chassis? Typically Apple says to remove the adhesive residue (careful) with alcohol wipes (lint free & 98% isopropyl). Thanks for the instructions!
the hardest part of this repair for me is actually aligning the ribbons (especially on the aftermarket version) so they don't jumble and cause the glass to mush away from the adhesive leaving a gap. Would would be very helpful to see how to fold the ribbon cables back on the aftermarket digitizers. They are slightly different than the originals, or at least they appear different. This repair is super useful but we could really use a step 44 because re-assembly has a sequence and a folding technique.
The ribbon cable is a little tricky to figure out. But if you look closely at the old ( Broken) screen you will see they stick to the underside of the screen thin the remaining ribbon slides down into the ipad between the display and ipads frame.
I used a heat gun and suction cups to loosen screen.
This was a very good ifix ii
Reassemble huh? What about how to move the home button to the new panel?
This is what I need too!
It is not as simple as reverse disassembly steps, the ribbon cables need to be tucked into the pocket on the side of the iPad. There is tape on them that has to adhere to the side of the digitizer too. Mine did not make it all the way down into the gap, and stuck on the other adhesive, now I have a gap by these two cables. To tuck these into this area is difficult at best. I now need to remove the glass, hoping it does not shatter and purchase more tape.
Other than this the task was not bad.. BTW: YES People use the capton tape
I’ve read that people are putting glue at each corner. I haven’t figured out what glue. One person said Glue Dot 1” 16lb, another said rubber cement, 1 video shows 5 min epoxy… Heard that some sort of glue (not super glue) needs to be used to avoid the glass lifting later on. And to use 3m red tape along the edges. I’ve been searching for which glue because I still have an ipad air to do screen replacement on.
Would be helpful if the tape were listed in the master supplies for the guide. I got the whole kit overnighted, but then had to wait a week to get the tape from Amazon (since I wasn’t going to shell out another $50 for overnight shipping). Otherwise, it’d be nice to know if the displays through iFix it included the foam or not—mine didn’t.
Second the concern about the foam. I bought the full repair kit, but was surprised there wasn’t already polyimide tape on the digitizer or in the kit. At least mention that it needs to be purchased extra.
@baron9 The displays we sell have the proper insulation and don’t require any tape. That note is more for folks who use our guides while buying the parts from somewhere else. (They tend to complain here, even though it’s the part that’s at fault, not the guide.) I’ve updated the instructions to try to make things a little more clear. Sorry about that!
My digitizer kit from ifixit also looks like it is missing the polyimide tape on the digitizer. Can someone confirm that i do not need to get the tape with the original ifixit kit and just slap the digitizer on there?
Alex -
what is the difference between the right and left antenna?. My right antenna is damage and cant find a replacement. Can I use only the left one?
I did not realize that aftermarket screens (besides the one ifixit sells) do not come with adhesive strips. Well worth the time to figure out what kind of adhesive you’re going to use to re-adhere the glass before you begin. Stopping while you’re so close to the end of the repair (or having to open the ipad up again after the screen doesn’t stick back down) is slightly frustrating.
I used a b-7000. 48 h cure time.
Thank you for your guide, it helped me fix my son’s iPad!
Just wanna say thank you. I replaced my LCD and digitizer today…. took a LOT longer to get that adhesive off than I expected. And the IOpener busted in my microwave despite following all directions (eg only 30 sec at a time, out for at least 10 min before reheating. So that sucked. Turns out the rice in a sock worked pretty well too.
Regarding assembly: even with carefully tucking the ribbon cables down the side while reassembling, it’s still hard to get that area to stick down.
Some advice when reassembling that I have learned in the hard way.
One good hint is to those who buy replacement parts that are not exactly the original ones. Some of the parts come with a 3M adhesive tape on the tab of the flex cables (I guess original parts are already folded and glued). I would strongly recommend to be very careful when you try to glue it on the front panel and maybe watch a video on how to fold it properly, so as not to fold or pinch the flex cable on an unrepairable way. Also, some of the low cost parts come with a very strong protection sticker on the front glass. It is advisable that you peel off the sticker before reassembling the ipad in order to not end up ruining the glue that was supposed to hold the front panel .
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Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the upper component cable bracket.
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Remove the upper component cable bracket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera connector from the logic board.
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Use a spudger to pry the front-facing camera housing up and lift it out of the case.
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Slide a spudger under the front-facing camera to separate it form the adhesive securing it to the rear case.
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Remove the front-facing camera from the iPad.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack connector from the logic board.
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Fold the headphone jack cable out of the way.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the microphone cable connector from the logic board.
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Place the top portion of the iPad on a reheated iOpener.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the case and the microphone cable.
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Carefully scrape the lower portion of the microphone cable off of the case.
You can see a small C-shaped piece of foam attached to the microphone assembly by the spudger in this step. I warmed up my iOpener and placed the old microphone on it to soften the adhesive on it and transferred it to the new microphone.
I am wondering if it is possible to heat up the top of the iPad with the iOpener earlier and remove the microphone and camera at once, and then reheat the bottom of the microphone to soften the adhesive so you don’t have to tear the foam between the camera and mic.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the delicate upper portion of the microphone cable up off of the adhesive holding it to the rear case.
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Remove the dual microphone assembly from the iPad.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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I was already planning to change my screen when I saw the issue with the microphone was the same problem I had. Glad I only had to open the iPad once and did the microphone at the same time. The microphone replacement doesn’t have extra foam pieces for under the camera, so take your time removing the camera and try not to rip the foam too much. You can see a small C-shaped piece of foam attached to the microphone assembly on the step for removing the microphone. I warmed up my iOpener and placed the old microphone on it to soften the adhesive on it and transferred it to the new microphone.
