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Follow this guide to replace the screen on a Microsoft Surface Pro 4.

There is a significant chance that you may break the unreinforced and fragile display panel during this procedure. Be sure to apply adequate heat and be extremely careful while slicing through the adhesive. Wear safety glasses in case the glass shatters.

  1. If your screen glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the Surface’s screen until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the screen.
    • If your screen glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the Surface’s screen until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the screen.

    • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD display.

  2. Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.

    • You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

    • You may also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to heat the Surface.

    • Be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

    • Don't use a hot plate if the screen has been taped.

  3. Take note of the screen adhesive layout before continuing:
    • Take note of the screen adhesive layout before continuing:

    • These areas only contain adhesive and are safe to cut.

    • The display board and flex cables sit here close to the edge. Cut carefully and don't insert the pick more than 1/8 inch (3 mm).

    • Fragile antenna cables lie under this part of the screen. Carefully follow the procedure in step 13 to avoid damaging them. The adhesive is also the thickest here.

  4. Insert an opening pick into the top-right speaker cutout on the screen and slide the pick between the glass and speaker grille. Don't insert the opening pick deeper than 0.45 in (12 mm). Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.
    • Insert an opening pick into the top-right speaker cutout on the screen and slide the pick between the glass and speaker grille.

    • Don't insert the opening pick deeper than 0.45 in (12 mm). Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

  5. Rotate the pick toward the bottom of the Surface to slide it underneath the lower edge of the speaker cutout. Rotate the pick toward the bottom of the Surface to slide it underneath the lower edge of the speaker cutout.
    • Rotate the pick toward the bottom of the Surface to slide it underneath the lower edge of the speaker cutout.

  6. Slide the pick down the right edge of the Surface to slice through the adhesive under the screen. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance while sliding the pick, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.
    • Slide the pick down the right edge of the Surface to slice through the adhesive under the screen.

    • Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance while sliding the pick, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.

    • Leave this opening pick in the right edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

  7. Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.
    • Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.

    • You may also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to heat the Surface.

    • Be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

    • Don't use a hot plate if the screen has been taped.

  8. Insert a new opening pick into the bottom-right corner and slide it around the corner toward the bottom edge. Don't insert the opening pick deeper than 0.25 in (6 mm) around the bottom-right corner. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD. Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive.
    • Insert a new opening pick into the bottom-right corner and slide it around the corner toward the bottom edge.

    • Don't insert the opening pick deeper than 0.25 in (6 mm) around the bottom-right corner. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

    • Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive.

    • Don't insert the opening pick deeper than 0.45 in (12 mm) along the bottom edge.

    • Leave this pick in the bottom edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

    Yep. I scratched the corner of the LCD with the pick. Take the warning seriously folks! It’s really easy to do.

    Laurence Mayer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  9. Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.
    • Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.

    • You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

    • You may also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to heat the Surface.

    • Be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

    • Don't use a hot plate if the screen has been taped.

  10. Insert a new opening pick into the bottom left corner and slide it around the corner toward the left edge. Be careful cutting under the lower 2.5 inches (65 mm) of the left edge. Don't insert the opening pick more than 1/8 inch (3 mm) here. The display cables sit near this part of the bezel and are easily damaged. Once past the display cable area, you can insert the pick to 0.45 in (12 mm) again.
    • Insert a new opening pick into the bottom left corner and slide it around the corner toward the left edge.

    • Be careful cutting under the lower 2.5 inches (65 mm) of the left edge. Don't insert the opening pick more than 1/8 inch (3 mm) here. The display cables sit near this part of the bezel and are easily damaged.

    • Once past the display cable area, you can insert the pick to 0.45 in (12 mm) again.

    • Slide the pick along the left edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive.

    • Leave this pick in the left edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

  11. Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.
    • Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.

    • The adhesive is thickest along this edge, and you may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

    • You may also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to heat the Surface.

    • Be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

    • Don't use a hot plate if the screen has been taped.

  12. Round the left corner with the opening pick and slide it along the top edge of the Surface. Stop when the pick is 2.75 inches (70 mm) away from the left edge. The next 6 inches (15 cm) of the top edge of the case is covered by the left and right antennas, which sit between the case and the screen bezel. Follow the next steps carefully to avoid damaging the antennas. The next 6 inches (15 cm) of the top edge of the case is covered by the left and right antennas, which sit between the case and the screen bezel. Follow the next steps carefully to avoid damaging the antennas.
    • Round the left corner with the opening pick and slide it along the top edge of the Surface. Stop when the pick is 2.75 inches (70 mm) away from the left edge.

    • The next 6 inches (15 cm) of the top edge of the case is covered by the left and right antennas, which sit between the case and the screen bezel. Follow the next steps carefully to avoid damaging the antennas.

  13. Fragile antenna cables lie under the top edge of the screen. Carefully follow the procedure to avoid damaging them. Insert the point of a pick under the screen where you just stopped cutting. Don't insert the pick deeper than the edge of the bezel. Carefully roll the pick to the right, pressing the long edge of the pick into the screen adhesive underneath the bezel, cutting the adhesive as you go. Don't slide the pick along the edge of the Surface.
    • Fragile antenna cables lie under the top edge of the screen. Carefully follow the procedure to avoid damaging them.

    • Insert the point of a pick under the screen where you just stopped cutting. Don't insert the pick deeper than the edge of the bezel.

    • Carefully roll the pick to the right, pressing the long edge of the pick into the screen adhesive underneath the bezel, cutting the adhesive as you go. Don't slide the pick along the edge of the Surface.

    • Repeat this motion of inserting the point of the pick where you just cut, and rolling to the right all along the top edge of the Surface, until the pick is 2.5 inches (64 mm) from the right edge of the Surface.

  14. Once you cut the adhesive over the antennas (8.5 inches, or 22 cm, from the left edge), slide the pick the rest of the way along the top edge of the surface and round the top right corner to slice through any remaining adhesive. Once you cut the adhesive over the antennas (8.5 inches, or 22 cm, from the left edge), slide the pick the rest of the way along the top edge of the surface and round the top right corner to slice through any remaining adhesive. Once you cut the adhesive over the antennas (8.5 inches, or 22 cm, from the left edge), slide the pick the rest of the way along the top edge of the surface and round the top right corner to slice through any remaining adhesive.
    • Once you cut the adhesive over the antennas (8.5 inches, or 22 cm, from the left edge), slide the pick the rest of the way along the top edge of the surface and round the top right corner to slice through any remaining adhesive.

  15. Very slowly lift the screen assembly away from the Surface case. If you encounter any resistance, stop and check that all the adhesive is separated. Don't remove the screen yet. It is still connected to the motherboard by two cables. Use an opening pick to cut through any remaining adhesive.
    • Very slowly lift the screen assembly away from the Surface case. If you encounter any resistance, stop and check that all the adhesive is separated.

    • Don't remove the screen yet. It is still connected to the motherboard by two cables.

    • Use an opening pick to cut through any remaining adhesive.

  16. Lift the top of the screen assembly away from the case while sliding the bottom of the screen closer to the motherboard display connectors. Gently lay the screen down on the case with the connectors facing up. Take care to avoid creasing the display cables. Gently lay the screen down on the case with the connectors facing up. Take care to avoid creasing the display cables.
    • Lift the top of the screen assembly away from the case while sliding the bottom of the screen closer to the motherboard display connectors.

    • Gently lay the screen down on the case with the connectors facing up. Take care to avoid creasing the display cables.

  17. Use this method to remove any EMI shields necessary during your repair: Use one tip of a pair of angled tweezers to pry up the EMI shield from the gaps between the "teeth." Repeat this procedure at different points around the perimeter of the shield until it is free.
    • Use this method to remove any EMI shields necessary during your repair:

    • Use one tip of a pair of angled tweezers to pry up the EMI shield from the gaps between the "teeth."

    • Repeat this procedure at different points around the perimeter of the shield until it is free.

    • Try not to deform the shields too much—you will need to reinstall them during reassembly.

    • To reinstall, correct any deformations to the best of your ability, make sure the "teeth" align with the rim on the motherboard, and press down on the entire perimeter of the EMI shield.

    • Make sure all "teeth" are snug to the metal rim and not bent underneath the EMI shield.

  18. Use your tweezers to remove the two EMI shields covering the display cable connectors. Use your tweezers to remove the two EMI shields covering the display cable connectors. Use your tweezers to remove the two EMI shields covering the display cable connectors.
    • Use your tweezers to remove the two EMI shields covering the display cable connectors.

  19. Pry up with the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each display cable from the motherboard. Pry up with the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each display cable from the motherboard. Pry up with the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each display cable from the motherboard.
    • Pry up with the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each display cable from the motherboard.

  20. Remove the screen from the Surface.
    • Remove the screen from the Surface.

    • During reassembly, pause here and follow this guide to replace the screen adhesive.

  21. Use an opening pick to pry up one edge of the EMI shield covering the display board.
    • Use an opening pick to pry up one edge of the EMI shield covering the display board.

    • Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.

  22. Lift the EMI shield away from the display board and remove it.
    • Lift the EMI shield away from the display board and remove it.

  23. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the display interconnect cable straight up and out of its socket on the board. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the display interconnect cable straight up and out of its socket on the board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the display interconnect cable straight up and out of its socket on the board.

  24. Use an opening tool to pry up one end of the EMI shield covering the second display cable. Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly. Remove the EMI shield.
    • Use an opening tool to pry up one end of the EMI shield covering the second display cable.

    • Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.

    • Remove the EMI shield.

  25. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the digitizer connector straight up and out of its socket on the screen. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the digitizer connector straight up and out of its socket on the screen.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the digitizer connector straight up and out of its socket on the screen.

  26. Use a spudger to flip up the small locking flaps on the display cable ZIF connectors. Use a spudger to flip up the small locking flaps on the display cable ZIF connectors. Use a spudger to flip up the small locking flaps on the display cable ZIF connectors.
    • Use a spudger to flip up the small locking flaps on the display cable ZIF connectors.

  27. Use tweezers to slide the display cables straight out of their sockets on the display board. Use tweezers to slide the display cables straight out of their sockets on the display board. Use tweezers to slide the display cables straight out of their sockets on the display board.
    • Use tweezers to slide the display cables straight out of their sockets on the display board.

  28. Slide an opening pick under the display board to separate the adhesive holding it onto the back of the screen. If the adhesive is stubborn, it may help to heat the display board using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun. Take care not to overheat the screen. If the adhesive is stubborn, it may help to heat the display board using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun. Take care not to overheat the screen.
    • Slide an opening pick under the display board to separate the adhesive holding it onto the back of the screen.

    • If the adhesive is stubborn, it may help to heat the display board using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun. Take care not to overheat the screen.

  29. Remove the display board.
    • Remove the display board.

    • During reassembly, remove the adhesive from under the display board with isopropyl alcohol (≥90%) and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter. Then, apply new adhesive from a precut adhesive card and secure it to the new screen.

  30. Only the screen remains.
    • Only the screen remains.

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To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

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Sam Omiotek

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Community

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Thank you for your guide.

I've removed the cracked screen from my Surface Pro 4 and hope to replace it with a new screen I bought on eBay. Unfortunately, the new screen doesn't seem to have the NTrig board attached to it.

Is it possible to remove that little board from the old screen? If so, how?

alex - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

I'm also interested on this. as I can't find a screen seller that includes the NTrig board. Did you manage to do it, Alex?

Óscar Espeso Gil -

Yes you can heat up the board and remove it and move it over to the new screen. However my problem is that now I have a vertical dead spot about 2 inches wide from the "J" key to the "L" key up and down the screen. I can't find any damage to the cables or boards... I have replaced the screen twice now and nothing.

Jordan Mershon -

Same problem as the guy above, moved the n-trig board over, touch is unresponsive in certain spots, anyone find a solution to this?

Raul Garcia -

I'll be moving the board over as well, I am told to make sure the cables are completely connected, Check and Re-Check. This seemed to have fixed most problems with the touch being unresponsive in some area's.

jayroca23 -

hi guys, i have the same issue with the touchscreen after replacement. have you find a solution? I checked a couple of times but touch screen doesn't work. Instead if I use the pen, there are some dead spot.

Gabriele Corda -

What adhesive did you use to re-attach the screen?

alex - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Ok, So all fine in theory, but unless you broke your screen, like I did, it is IMPOSSIBLE to remove the screen without breaking it. Even with a full I Fix It toolbox and an I opener it took me 90 mins to get the screen off. The central parts come away quite easily but separated from the edges, but the glue tape is so strong it left sharp glass around the edge where the tape is.

This screen is less than 1/10th of a mm thick in places, you've got no chance of getting it off.

Jon Pertwee - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

You need to heat it a lot. I used heat gun at 280°C and applied heat to the edges and kept it moving around the edges for 15 min. Then the edge was too hot to touch (around 120-150°C) and then it was easy to remove the screen. Be careful for the top antenna’s mine were stuck to the display instead of the bar below and I needed a new antenna.

Henri -

I i got mine apart by heating the edges, and then applying some painters tape loosly from the back cover to the front of the screen to prevent it fom dropping and then blowing air from my air compressor through the back panel air vents. Screen popped right away from the warm adhesive and the painters tape kept it from breaking any cables or the glass, took about 5 minutes.

Hunter Rench -

On the plusside, at least I can now upgrade the hard disk.. Yay.. 1TB here I come!!

Jon Pertwee - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

I am unable to find a replacement glass anywhere? How did you guys find it on ebay?

Shubham Sharma - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Amazon is the only place I have found a screen....

Jordan Mershon -

What adhesive should i use to replace the screen?

Nick Skwarek - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Some of this might do the trick for you gentleman. https://www.amazon.com/NIUTOP-Double-Adh...

jayroca23 -

Tesa 4965, Tesa 61395 or Hi-bond VHB tape.

David Fear -

I seem to have missed the step where you explained what you sacrificed to which god in order to get the screen off in fewer than 500 pieces.

mad_bimmy - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

should i save my files to an external drive before replacing the screen?

heyyy jaaaaaayyyyy - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

You should always backup your data for any repairs you may do.

Evan Miles -

note that you need to be very careful when prying the top left side of the display off: it's very easy to damage the wifi antenna!

Ned Danieley - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

more so in top middle across 6", I replaced mine with aluminum tape and it worked really well

Ken Lebofsky -

Does anyone have a link to buy the actual replacement screen for Surface pro 4. The replacement screen in this video. Thank you in advance

Charles Myles - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

At the top of the unit there is some very thin copper ribbon that tore when removing the adhesive, what is it? I need to replace it.

Ken Lebofsky - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

It's the wifi/bluetooth antenna. You can not buy this part anywhere. I recreated the antenna using aluminum tape and I think the wifi is better than before!!

Ken Lebofsky -

Anyone have the issue of the screen being offset after reattaching? Anyone know which one of the connectors controls this?

Tess morgan - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

I am not quite sure what you mean by offset but what this sounds like is that the N Trig board is not quite in the right position. The N Trig board is the L shaped board that you need to take from the old screen and stick it on the new screen. If you look at the opened tablet, on the bottom left area, as you look at the inside of the tablet, there is an L shaped space. The N Trig board must fit properly into this space or the screen will be skew or even stand proud. There is enough space for the N Trig board but not much space. If possible try lifting the screen again and repositioning the N Trig board. If that is not possible or may cause more damage than its worth you may have to live with the screen being offset. As a good ‘lesson learnt’ for this it is to position the new screen with all the bits connected in place before actually sticking it down so that you can make sure it sits correctly. That said I am not implying that you did not do that. ;o)

Paul Ingarfield -

This guide made it seem roughly 10 times easier to do than it turned out to be. Sunk ~$200 into fixing the screen on a $500 computer, and broke the screen when reinstalling it, and spent easily a couple hours frustratedly picking broken glass off the edges when taking off the old screen. I’m not blaming you for me being bad at computer repair, but maybe consider raising the difficulty?

Mark Blakeley - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Ouch, sorry to hear that. I haven’t worked on the Surface Pro much, but usually the challenge is to avoid breaking the screen when taking it off, as opposed to installing it. I agree with you about the difficulty level and bumped it up accordingly—there is nothing easy about working on a Surface Pro. Better luck on your next repair…

Jeff Suovanen -

All Right: where to buy screen - phoneremedies.com, comes with tools. If, like I did, you tear a ribbon cable, can find replacement at ipartexperts.com

My glass was shattered, so the big center part came out easily, too easily, before I knew it I’d torn a ribbon cable. I’m using a heating pad to warm the adhesive around the edges. This is a long monotonous process. Take extra care in the middle third section at the top. There is delicate antenna in this area. Moving the NTrig board will be the next joy. If anyone is wondering, no this isn’t easy…not for the faint of heart. Prying off the little aluminium cable pin covers is also nerve racking. You will bend them, but they can be bent back.

john brewer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

I think there should be a part for putting it back together, it’s not always as simple as ‘just do it in reverse’ for instance, what is the best adhesive to use and how much should you use? Those parts are not listed either. Maybe a new display bought from Ifixit has adhesive already applied but what if you are using a used display?

Glen D - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

This should be entitled ‘Display Removal’ not ‘Display Replacement’. There is literally nothing here addressing the replacement part.

Glen D - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

No mention of the antenae???? assembly at the top of the screen, that you can cut right through with a pick (near the camera and N-trig assemblies),

This is a really lame procedure that ends up giving false confidence to people you should just remove it if you can’t put all the important details on here

Glen D - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

There are little round gaskets around at least 3 of the sensors/cameras on the sensor array area, and there are 3 antennae glued between the screen and the case on either side of the camera. THIS IS PRETTY IMPORTANT INFORMATION TO LEAVE OUT OF what is essentially a ‘teardown’ instruction posing as ‘replacement’ instructions. I really expected more form this web site, and anyone reading this should peruse youtube and watch MULTIPLE videos because a great deal of those don’t show these things either. The iOpener is for $@$*,you need a heat gun set to just below 200 F and once you get a pick in, heat in front of it, detach it while it’s easy, heat again, etc, and the top edge is much thicker and contains all the sensors. this has a lot of glue almost the whole thickness of the bezel. I haven’t found a way to separate without snagging one of the antennae but on the next try I will use more heat and go even slower. I would love to post a photo showing the exact position but see no way to…

Glen D - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Glen, this is a user-submitted guide. Your comments are fair, but rather than just criticizing, I would suggest using iFixit the way it’s meant to be used—as a wiki—and submit your own improvements to the guide. We generally allow any user to submit a repair guide, even if it’s imperfect, in the hopes that folks will use it and improve on it over time. Looking through the guide I can see some of your complaints are addressed in the comments, so I will go through and copy some of that info over to the steps where it’s a little more visible. Thanks for your feedback.

Jeff Suovanen -

I’m researching reasons my touch screen doesn’t work. I found this site, after I removed the old screen. I wished it was before my attempt, I would have had more insight into the process. But, I think I did okay, considering. The new screen is connected to the cables and I tested it, before the final “glue down”. However, the touch screen does not work and I’ve tried to re-seat the cables from the Ntrig assembly to the new screen many, many times and still, nothing. Is it possible the screen I purchased from an Amazon supplier can be defective? Has anyone had an issue with a defective screen? I’m considering purchasing another screen from a different supplier and try the connections, again, to rule this out. But, If you guys think it’s me and not the screen, I’ll gladly listen to any suggestions. Thanks, in advance, for any comments.

Linda Lewis

linleelew - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

I t can be two different things:

1) You have a bad screen

2) You damaged the N-Trig Board or it was damaged when the screen was originally damaged which can happen. Unless you try a combination both both you may not know. It you are doing these Surface Pro 4 repairs in bulk, it is a good idea to keep both those parts in stock.

Abdullah -

after replacing my display the screen would not turn on. i confirmed the surface still worked by pluging in an external monitor. the device would respond to touch but it would not display anything on the new monitor

Joseph Allen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Awesome repair guide.

Have removed the screen only to find it is not a Pro 4 screen on the Pro 4. A little confused but having done research on the LCD connector it is saying it is the LG screen not the Samsung one! I did not realise there were two different screens for this model until this point.

The removed screen is the same as the Pro 5 (2017) screen. But it came off the Pro 4…….

The LCD connector on the Pro 4 screen is shorter than the connector for the Pro 5 (2017). So a Pro 4 screen can not be connected to this Pro 4.

So my question is this. Can the Pro 5 screen be fitted to this Pro 4 safely ?

JO HILL - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Would a 1796 screen work as replacement for a Microsoft Surface Pro 4 1724? Would that solve the flickering problem?

Bernardo - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

i have the same question… did you fix it?

carritoschocones -

So my problem is that the touch doenst work in all parts (right 2cm of screen wont work) and also the pen stopped working. But the display is in ggood shape and it didnt shatter. My question is: IF (which after reading this doesnt seem too likely) i manage to get the display off without breaking it can changing the N-trig board help? Like does it have all the touchscreen/pen components or could it also be a display problem?

Viktor Steinbrecher - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Hi iFixit

I want to ask about surface pro screen part. I have customer surface pro 4 screen flickering and want to replace the LED Screen. Someone said, surface pro 4 screen only last about 1 year before it will start flickering again and he suggested using Surface pro 5 screen, since they are the same.

Is this true? What about camera holes? Are the placed exactly to fit both surface pro 4 and 5?

Cin Lung Chen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

my surface pro4 screen not work after the replacement ..even the old broken one ,stop work and not show any signal…but when i connect my surface to an HomeLED. Through cable ,work perfectly .i change the flat cable also but still not work .

Waseem - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Thank you for the guide, this in combination with the battery replacement was tied for the most finicky, difficult part replacement I’ve ever had to do for a client in the (admittedly short) 1.5 years I’ve been in IT. Well written and quality graphics.

SparkWorx - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

If the screen is already broken and you’re not worried about breaking it more is this repair really that hard seems like it’s really similar to an iPad digitizer/lcd replacement which really isn’t that difficult

Brendan Brasseur - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

needs help please so im pretty sure i bought the wrong type of screen seeing that the connector at the bottom of the screen doesnt snap in that flex is bit thinner than the connectore at the bottom my problem is i dont know how to tell if i have a v1 and need a v1 or if i have a v2 and need a v2 screen and dont tell me to count the pins cause they small and this is my first time so be gentle

Christian Rogers - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Hi. Is there anyway to know whether my surface has 25 pin 1.0 samsung display or 32 pin 2.0 lg display without opening the surface?

I have Surface Pro 4 i7 Processor, 16 GB RAM, 1 TB SSD model and it’s touch is not working.

Someone please help me to order the right display for my model.

Thanks in anticipation!

Majrul Ansari - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Hi,

I have the LG 32-pin version of the display, and I noticed the flex cable between display and motherboard has 32 pin on the display side and 25 on the motherboard side. I assume the samsung version has 25 pins on each side, does this mean seven of the pins on the LG display is redundant? I don’t know if a diagram for what each pin is for exists, so I can’t verify if this is indeed the case.

Dawith Lim - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Hi. This guide is great and I was able to remove my screen flawlessly. For those who want to know which screen they have:

Go to device manager (Just search Device Manager in the search box)

Under Monitors, right click on the “Surface Display” and go to properties.

Switch to the “Details” tab, and from the drop down menu choose “Hardware IDs”.

For the Samsung display, it should be: “MONITOR\SDC3853”.

I don’t know what is the ID for LG displays, but a quick Search for this device ID shows that it’s Samsung, and the screen from iFixit was fully compatible.

Hope this helps.

Soheil Sadeghi - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

The monitor type can be determined by using AIDA64 through the following path: Display Devices —> Monitor. Then you will see the manufacturer, model type, and manufacture date.

显示器类型只可以通过AIDA64来确定。在AIDA64中依次选择:显示设备—>显示器。这样就能看到制造商、型号和制造日期等信息。

天日可人 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

I have a Surface Pro 4 purchased in December 2015. Its screen flickers and shakes when the machine is hot.

2015年12月买的Surface Pro 4。机器一热,屏幕就抖。

I ordered a Surface Pro 4 (1724 v1.0) Screen (Samsung Display) and some tools on iFixit website. I received the package on Jan 10, 2022. The tools worked fine. I have replaced the old screen with the new one following the guide on this page.

我在iFixit网站订购了SP4 (1724 v1.0)的屏幕(三星的屏幕)以及拆机工具。2022年1月1日收到货。拆机工具很好用。照着本页教程,旧屏顺利拆下,新屏成功换上。

However, the next day (Jan 11, 2022), when I was testing my new screen by repeatedly playing videos, the screen started to shake again within less than one hour. The only good news is that my old screen shakes entirely while the new screen only shakes at the lower part (about 1/5 of the screen).

然而,次日(2022年1月11日),当我使用连续播放视频的方法来测试新屏幕时,新屏幕的画面不到一小时就又开始抖起来了。唯一的好消息就是,旧屏幕是整个画面全部抖动,而新屏幕只有画面下方约五分之一的面积抖动。

天日可人 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

How fragile are the two flexes of the screen?

I made a replacement of the battery and now the screen wont work. I can see a subtle backlight when powering on, bit i get no image and no touch response.

The tablet is working fine because i connected it to an external monitor and i found no problems.

Is it possible the flexes were damaged? On visual close inspection they seem fine to me, but i don't know.

Nahuel - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

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