Hi @mcvu ,

With the power disconnected, have you proved continuity of the wires from the control board to the heater element?

Also not sure if this is what you mean by Hi Limit Thermostat, if so apologies if it is. Just to satisfy my curiosity, did the new thermostat have the same Ohm reading (when out of circuit) as the old one?

http://www.partselect.com/Models/KUDE60F...

Hi Michael,

By "Hi Limit Thermostat" do you mean the Bi -Metal Fuse found in the Control panel? I think that this one might be used for safety control if the temp 'exceeds' the maximum allowed rather than bring it up to the value needed. Also it burns out and has to be replaced if there is a problem and the dishwasher probably won't start as it controls power to the control board.

Just wondering whether it might be the actual Dishwasher thermostat that is causing the problem or possibly even the Turbidity Sensor.

(part #13 in the Tub and Frame Parts section, part # 19 Pump, Washarm and Motor parts http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-nu...,)

According to the user guide,(and I'm assuming that the dishwasher thermostat is the one that they're talking about rather than the Turbidity sensor which I think monitors the "soil" level only and not both, but who knows):

"The sensor in your dishwasher monitors the soil level. Cycle time and/or water usage can vary as the sensor adjusts the cycle for the best wash performance. If the incoming water is less than the recommended temperature or food soils are heavy, the cycle will automatically compensate by adding time, heat and water as needed." (The italics are my addition to the quote).

I'm wondering if it is indicating that the temperature is above what is required to heat the water (or at least not below it). Also perhaps the Drying cycle works OK because this is far above the expected temperature range for wash and rinse or this sensor is not used during the Drying cycle..

Are the cycles actually shorter in duration because it is not having to heat the water?

As an example, I have shortened the cycle time duration (and cut the power usage of my dishwasher, not the same brand as yours) by connecting the hot water from my solar HW system to the dishwasher's cold water inlet connection (it is the only connection available, via a tempering valve, dishwasher water inlet temp. not to exceed 60 deg. C). Wash and rinse water heating time (and power used for the heater) is minimized because the water is usually near or over the required temp, usually set on mine for a 45-60 deg. C wash.

just a thought.