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CompTIA A+ CE
PC Pro Certification
Marchman Technical School Certificate of Completion
School and Experience
- Sunlake High School (Dual enrollment)
- Graduation: 2014
- Marchman Technical Center
- Graduation: 2014
- Linux (I often have a second dedicated Linux computer)
- Intermediate board level repair and data recovery
- Gaming (Limited to older games without excess DLC and microtransactions; PC only since Xbox One and PS4 launch)
Any unlocking companies who can ACTUALLY unlock this phone?Normally I unlock these by trying my current AT&T SIM (it used to work), but since the Device Unlock app and relies on the...
*Y700-17ISK*Should I push to open this and check the battery?This is not my laptop, but a machine I maintain for the owner as I’m their IT department. I went to move the laptop, and...
Good matching spray paint to clean up a scratched unit?I tried to upload photos of my unit but the uploader isn't working. I have a 77001 PS2 Slim with severe scratching I'd...
Is this SSD wear concerning?I picked up this SSD on eBay (SanDisk X400) in June to eventually replace a 8 year old laptop due to age and battery wear...
**LG Phoenix 5** Anyone know a company that can unlock these?I have a pair of LG Phoenix 5 devices I bought some time back as spare phones, and these are locked to AT&T and use the...
"The system files are corrupted" - can this be fixed?I got this Wii with a lot of two for $18 per unit as-is (RVL-001). The other unit looks fine, but the DVD drive has an...
How to remove OS fat from 240GB SSD?I have a Lat E7440 running Win10 Pro, which is frankly near the end of its practical life (had to reinstall Windows due to...
Is this water damage look concerning?I have cleaned already cleaned up any water damage here, and the machine is fine despite being purchased as a “no POST”...
How much extra runtime does the 60Wh pack provide (Lat 7490/i7-8650U)I am dealing with a machine that never shipped with a battery (bottom cover is intact, so I believe it may have expanded,...
Is this SSD DRAMless?As I am upgrading my desktop from the XPS 8500 to a custom built i5-9400f setup (new case, NVMe SSD, RAM, power supply and...
crwdns2890332:0LG G7 Thinq Bootloop + No Connectivitycrwdne2890332:0Been there with my LG G4 before - this is not a new issue with LG since they can’t seem to get PCB manufacturing correct, even with a class action lawsuit. In your case, you’re just OOW and SOL with LG, unlike with the LG G4 class action. I posted this here before, and the fix is to reflow the PCB with a hairdryer once you’ve confirmed that is isn’t another issue since any data recovery attempt, no matter how many precautions you take reduces your chance of data recovery: It is stuck on the lg screen I haven’t had a LG phone for many years after that - I only have two identical devices since someone was selling them super cheap and I could use them since I had AT&T but I do not trust them with critical data. They’re going on eBay any day at this point, since I can’t find anyone who can unlock a Device Unlock phone, and I already barely trust them to last.
crwdns2890332:0Why is my laptop stuck on setup utility page?crwdne2890332:0Listen to the hard drive - with the visual Toshiba BIOS (HSW/AMD-present), the hard drive/OS issue fallback is to load the BIOS. It usually happens under 3 conditions: (1) Drive failure (most common) (2) No OS (boot file corruption, or the system was erased. More effective then “No boot device found” errors. This can indicate a secondhand unit erased by the previous owner too) (3) No drive installed (Used laptop where the drive was pulled, or failed and the previous owner sold it with the bad drive installed) The issue is Toshiba is known for having horribly unreliable mechanical hard drives. I’ve never tried their SSDs, but I wouldn’t touch them with a 100 foot Coronavirus ridden pole if the spinning hard drives are any indication of quality. A lot of newer laptops - not just Toshiba have moved to the BIOS boot fallback, or run diagnostics automatically so it’s increasingly becoming expected behavior. If you have a AMI skin Toshiba, these still use the traditional POST messaging. Dell also does it on...
crwdns2890332:0Someone’s been in here…crwdne2890332:0Yes I've been here before. I’ve unknowingly purchased laptops with hidden liquid damage and a bad past. Once I seen that and how severe it was before cleaning, I abandoned the rebuild attempt to avoid any future issues I'd probably need a new unit for anyway and make sure nothing is going to kill the new machine - yes the risk of a sudden issue I can't work around is low when it's used where I can chance it, but my time is also worth more then having to hope it's reliable. That said, the replacement unit has no such issues, and was incorrectly advertised with a lesser CPU then it actually has :-). I thought I at least found a 1:1 unit, but the seller listed it as an 8250U unit when it really has an 8350U - SCORE! I also checked out the screen it has - LGD0557 (FHD IPS, LG) - double score :-). The LG LCD is the one you want, although the BOE/AUO LCDs aren't bad either if you get it. How sad do you think I am the bad unit is a total loss knowing what I replaced it with? Yeah, no. I mention this as a prime...
crwdns2890332:0Can my phone be saved?crwdne2890332:0If it was genuinely that hot unless you need to recover the data (even then, the CPU needs to work for the encryption key), that phone is thoroughly unrepairable. Time for a new phone. If you want another iPhone, look for either a Xs or a SE (2020) for 4G, but if you can swing the cost the 12 isn’t a bad device. With the 13 on the way, the 12 will become reasonably affordable soon due to market flooding.
crwdns2890332:0shuts down on slightest magsafe twitchcrwdne2890332:0Your first mistake was using a clone charger, since they tend to fry the motherboard due to a lack of proper protection mechanism. More then likely, this did damage the DC-In board as they tend to arc them to death. However, the damage often extends to “hidden” logic board damage that gets worse over time and fatally kills the motherboard, or damages it enough you need to repair or replace it. I would start with a DC-In jack and see if that helps. If not, reset the SMC and NVRAM and see if that helps. If not, the motherboard was damaged by the charger. There is a bit of a catch with this unit, however: in many cases, the polycarb series tends to be a total loss when they break, due to the age and depreciation. In addition, a serious chipset limitation which was caused by the nVidia MCP79/89, so blame nVidia for this for hard limiting it and leaving out a SATA III FW upgrade path. Between the age of the unit, and MCP79/89 limitations and 10.13 hard stop, your money will go further on a Mid 2012 13" with new...
crwdns2890332:0Dropped it in watercrwdne2890332:0Unless you can clean the PCBs and replace the battery, I doubt it’ll survive especially if the motor is bad. I would get the battery replaced if possible, and then try to repair the bare tool. If the tool is beyond repair, then you will probably be better off replacing it with a “tool only” replacement, and letting them know the old one is dead due to liquid if you need to do that. More then likely, the tool will be a total loss unless you can fix it, or get a pass for accidental damage. If the battery isn't covered you usually get a better deal on 2 packs. I would check that first before risking getting caught.
crwdns2890332:0Display is distorted but otherwise it workscrwdne2890332:0Obligatory CRT safety warning: CRT monitors can hold 15-25k volts (15k is the average for desktop class CRTs, 25k for TVs). If you repair it, DO NOT TRUST THE BLEEDER RESISTOR! Discharge it yourself! Refer to this previous Answers post for safety info. You might want to read my answer I’m linking, and the backlinked answer within the answer. Pray it’s the caps - the compact Mac analog boards are known to have issues there. See if you can find a capacitor rebuild kit that ships with Nippon Chemicon or Nichicon caps and recap the analog board and seriously pray that fixes the problem. Try and go for Nippon Chemicon, but Nichicon is also good. Do not buy any of the cheap ones like CrapXon - they don’t hold up very long. If it isn’t bad caps, the flyback needs to be replaced. Usually when the flyback fails, the cost to get the bare flyback vs. a properly refurbished analog board (new Nippon Chemicon or Nichicon caps, and checked for other issues) leans towards a new analog board. The bare flyback is quite...
crwdns2890332:0there is lines in black printcrwdne2890332:0That’s either an air in the system or a clog problem. Sadly, on the factory CISS Epsons the problem is servicing it is much harder, due to how they embed the CIS on some while others are snap-in units like the 3rd party units that have been used before this system for years. These things and the firmware bomb practice on the “black shell cart” Epsons (2010+) as I refer to them killed their viability for me due to the fact I mostly scan with these things and if I need to print, I’m not blowing $50 on ink for small runs. The old ones like the 88/69/68 started their present BS train (physical wetness sensor), and the “desirable” models like the T048 cart series printers such as the R200 are 10+ years old, and a support question mark :(. Seriously - used business laser>any Epson (even with 134k pages on the clock, especially if it still runs strong!) NORMALLY I advise against this with Epsons which are a question, but try a printhead cleaning and see if it makes a dent on the issue. If it does, you may need to...
crwdns2890332:0Why does fan run but computer won't come oncrwdne2890332:0Take a look at the RAM and see if that’s properly seated - Dell isn’t exactly good about proper RAM POST errors on the pre-3L (low power 1.3V) systems with cheap/mixed RAM, even today in some cases. The problem with your laptop is the E6420/30 is not known to have tight tolerances on RAM errors in some cases. Yes, the DDR3 1.5V Dells can take cheap RAM all day to the point you can buy unused generic Chinese RAM on eBay for nothing, but if it has an issue and there's poor communication you get this issue so you need to know to watch for unusual POST issues if you do it. Yes, I mixed brands in my 768p 7490, but I used two Dell OEM’d modules to help the odds, and I know I need to watch it for issues. Thankfully they started to clamp down on garbage RAM (and better communicate RAM failures, or just block POST with RAM that has no business being used because it’s that bad) with the HSW series (5/6X40, DDR3L required per Intel) and subsequent HSW era AMD laptops due to this crappy RAM causing issues with...
crwdns2890332:0I see hard disk not installedcrwdne2890332:0Usually no drive detected means the drive is locked in a BSY state (for all intents and purposes unless you can reset it, *dead*) or it’s flat out dead. In some cases depending on the type, it may be loose. Yours is showing, so it may be on the way out and you have time to do a backup. Seriously - DO NOT MESS WITH IT UNTIL YOU DO A BACKUP! This is your LAST CHANCE. If it’s a SATA 2.5”, try a reseat and see - seriously, hope for the best case scenario. If a reseat doesn’t help, the drive may be dead - test externally to make sure it isn’t the controller (rare, but possible - unlike IDE, SATA has hotswap support so it survives better). 95% of them are dead if it doesn’t show in BIOS. If it’s the M.2 SSD, it’s usually dead. Make sure it’s well seated and if you have concerns, remove the screw and reinstall it. If that doesn’t help, that drive is usually dead (if it’s NVMe based, communicates with the CPU instead of the PCH/integrated NB. For SATA, it talks to the NB or PCH - bad motherboard if you see this on...