Should be in the rear of the car near the gas tank on the driver side.

The issue with these ET printers is that you still have the same printheads prone to clogging, with much harder access to clean the printhead when it occurs :/. If the cleaning cycle doesn't fix it, it's usually a clog needing a solvent designed to break the clog down with these Epson printers. You will need something like this. IMPORTANT: Epson has a more powerful "purge" (power flush) buried in the firmware, but DO NOT USE THIS! It burns a lot of ink and will end your waste ink pads early! Yours uses the $10 "serviceable (read: CHIPPED)" version they call a maintenance box, but still; it doesn't mitigate things like the platen pad getting trashed by this "feature". Until Epson releases a user-swappable platen pad assembly like the "maintenance box" which replaces the non-serviceable waste ink pad, I won't be comfortable using the power flush option

I don't have a SM for this one (or a source), but what you have to do is "start" a cleaning cycle to unlock the printhead (sorry, the old days where this could be done mechanically with no issue is over) and unplug the printer; this will let you move the head freely. Once that's done, lay down a lint-free shop towel or a paper towel in the platen area to catch the ink without killing your waste ink components. You will need to unsnap the printer's ink carriers and inject cleaner into the head; do this 2-3 times until it is clean. Once that is done, run a test page like this to get the ink flowing again. You could technically do a standard head cleaning, but this wastes far more ink than running a page like that to get the ink back in the system.

To avoid it happening again, run a simple page every week. Nothing fancy is needed here, you just need something to keep the ink flowing inside the printhead. Setting up something to print "TEST" in all 4 colors will do the job here. Do note some commercial programs like Qimage/Qimage One have a feature to automate this, but unless you are running photo prints that warrant a $120/$250 purchase set a reminder to do this on your phone or a recurring calender event.

Slimmed down Arch with a basic WM would probably be perfect for a system like this.

@phebiiii since iFixit does not yet have a specific guide for this task, use something like this video While you replace your battery, check the charging board and the flex cable connecting the charging board to the main board. Make sure it is seated properly and has no tears etc.

While you work on your phone, take lots of pictures. Once you are done with it, take those pictures and create a guide for iFixit. That will help the next person that has a device with the same issues as you do. It's easy and fun to create these guides. https://ifixit.com/Guide/new The iFixit community will appreciate this.

Repair is War on Entropy!

it could be anything from dust under the scroll wheel to a driver glitch. It happens to the best of us! If nothing basic works, some folks try testing it on another device or looking into settings. If that doesn't help, maybe time to give a new mouse a shot.

@mhmdaasmaal the first 1 minute of this video shows you how it is done.

Since a fan is a relatively simple machine, you can narrow it down quickly with a few checks.

Before dismantling anything, ensure the motor is actually receiving electricity.

• The Wall Switch: Check if the wall switch or the pull-chain has been toggled to the "off" position.
• Circuit Breaker: Check your electrical panel. If the fan is on a circuit with other high-load appliances, it may have tripped the breaker.
• The Reverse Switch: Sometimes the small toggle switch on the side of the motor (used to change summer/winter direction) gets stuck in the middle. If it’s not fully clicked to one side, the circuit is broken and the fan won't move.

With the power off, try to spin the fan blades by hand.

• If they spin freely: The bearings are fine, and the issue is likely electrical (capacitor or motor).
• If they are stiff or won't move: The bearings are seized or there is a massive buildup of dust and debris inside the motor housing. You might be able to fix this with a drop of non-detergent motor oil (SAE 10 or 20), but often a seized motor requires replacement.

The capacitor is a small black box inside the fan housing that provides the "torque" needed to start the motor.

• Symptoms: If you hear a faint humming sound when the fan is turned on, but the blades don't move, the capacitor has likely failed.
• The Jump-start Test: Turn the fan on and give the blades a manual push. If the fan starts spinning on its own after the push, the capacitor is 100% the problem. They are cheap and easy to replace.

If you smell a "burnt" or acrid odor coming from the fan, or if you see dark scorch marks on the motor windings, the motor itself has likely shorted out. At this point, it is usually more cost-effective to replace the entire fan than to attempt a motor rewind.

@arulselatan TRy a hard reset by fiollowing the insructions on here. Or you can try to get in Fastboot Mode by pressing the vol -and the power button at the same time and keep both buttons pressed. It is possible that you have a corrupted OS.

If none of that works consider this a hardware issue. First replace the battery. Then check the charging board and the ribbon cable going from the charging board to the main board. Make sure that it is properly seated and shows no rips, tears etc. If a new charging board and a new battery does not resolve this, the issue will be on your circuit board. For that you do need to have the schematic as well as the boardview and the knowledge to perform boardlevel troubleshooting. Most common would be failed flash memory.

Since iFixit does not yet have a specific guide for this, use something like this video

@pixel69362 the longer you wait, the worse it’s going to get. Even using a non-genuine battery is better than what you are doing right now. you current battery can further expand and may damage the internal structure of your phone i.e. circuit board damage or even worse, it may vent with flame, basically expand and rupture which may cause a small fire hazard. My suggestion is that you change the battery now. If you can't trust the people that work on phones in your area, do it yourself.

Since iFixit does not yet have a specific guide for this, use something like this video You do not need to remove the circuit boards as shown but you need to release the battery connector from the boards. Once you have the phone opened up, you will realize that it is not as complicated as it sounds. Properly dispose of your old battery.

While you work on your phone, take lots of pictures. Once you are done with it, take those pictures and create a guide for iFixit. That will help the next person that has a device with the same issues as you do. It's easy and fun to create these guides. https://ifixit.com/Guide/new The iFixit community will appreciate this.

Repair is War on Entropy!

Charge

Problem