Replace a jacket zipper (without unraveling)

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Wenn der Reißverschluss an einer Jacke kaputtgeht und ausgetauscht werden muss, kann es schwierig sein, einen neuen einzunähen. Das gilt besonders, wenn die Jacke gefüttert ist oder wenn sie aus dehnbarem Stoff gefertigt ist. Dann kann das Auftrennen der Nähte sehr langwierig und schwierig sein.

In dieser Anleitung zeige ich dir, wie du einen neuen Reißverschluss an eine Jacke nähen kannst, ***ohne Nähte auftrennen zu müssen***. Meine Jacke ist gefüttert und besteht aus Sweatstoff (dehnbarer Feinstrick).

***Wichtig:*** Nicht in jedem Fall muss ein kaputter Reißverschluss wirklich ausgetauscht werden! Manchmal reicht es, [link|https://de.ifixit.com/Anleitung/Rei%C3%9Fverschlusspflege:+Schmierung/19450#s54544|ihn zu reinigen und einzufetten] oder den [link|https://de.ifixit.com/Anleitung/Schieber+an+einem+Plastikrei%C3%9Fverschluss+ersetzen/19448|Zipper/Schieber auszutauschen]. Auch [[Topic:Zipper|andere Schäden am Reißverschluss|new_window=true]] lassen sich ohne einen Komplettaustausch reparieren.

Dein ***neuer Reißverschluss*** sollte im Idealfall genauso lang sein wie der alte. Wenn du diese Länge im Handel nicht bekommst, kannst du entweder einen nehmen, der nur wenige Zentimeter kürzer ist (das habe ich in diesem Fall getan) - oder du nimmst einen längeren und kürzt ihn oben. Eine gute ***Anleitung dazu, wie man einen zu langen Jackenreißverschluss oben kürzt***, findest du z. B. bei SewSimple.

Für die Innenseite brauchst du ***Stoffstreifen als Belege***:

* Wenn deine Jacke aus dehnbarem Stoff ist, nimm auch für die Belege dehnbaren Stoff; wenn die Jacke aus festem Stoff ist, nimm auch festen für die Belege.
* Der Stoff für die Belege sollte nicht zu dünn sein, sonst sind die Belege nicht stabil genug, und nicht zu dick, sonst werden sie unbequem.
* Die Stoffstreifen sollten 6-8 cm breit sein und ca. 5 cm länger als der Reißverschluss, den du einnähen möchtest.

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If the zipper on a jacket breaks and needs to be replaced, it can be difficult to sew in a new one. This is especially true if the jacket is lined or if it is made of stretchy fabric. Then unpicking the seams can be very tedious and difficult.

In this tutorial, I'll show you how to sew a new zipper on a jacket ***without having to unravel seams***. My jacket is lined and made of sweat fabric (stretchy fine knit).

***Important:*** Not in every case a broken zipper really needs to be replaced! Sometimes it is enough to [link|https://de.ifixit.com/Anleitung/Rei%C3%9Fverschlusspflege:+Lubrication/19450#s54544|clean and grease it] or replace the [link|https://de.ifixit.com/Anleitung/Schieber+on+a+plasticrei%C3%9Fverschluss+replace/19448|Zipper/slider]. Also [[Topic:Zipper|other zipper damage|new_window=true]] can be repaired without a complete replacement.

Your ***new zipper*** should ideally be the same length as the old one. If you can't get that length commercially, you can either take one that's just a few inches shorter (that's what I did in this case) - or take a longer one and shorten it at the top. A good ***guide on how to shorten*** a too long jacket zipper at the top can be found at SewSimple, for example.

For the inside you will need ***fabric strips as facings***:

* If your jacket is made of stretchy fabric, use stretchy fabric for the facings as well; if the jacket is made of solid fabric, use solid for the facings as well.
* The fabric for the slips should not be too thin, otherwise the slips will not be strong enough, and not too thick, otherwise they will be uncomfortable.
* The fabric strips should be 6-8 cm wide and about 5 cm longer than the zipper you want to sew in.

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crwdns2936071:01crwdne2936071:0 — Cut off old zipper

Open the zipper.

crwdns2936071:02crwdne2936071:0 — Cut out the box part

I separate out the reinforced piece with the box piece so I can sew the new zipper in there neatly, too.

crwdns2936071:03crwdne2936071:0 — Prepare the 1st fabric strip

The fabric strips will be on the inside as a backing. This way the zipper tape is also covered with fabric from the inside, which is more comfortable to wear. In addition, especially the lower end of the zipper can be nicely bordered and additionally stabilized.

crwdns2936071:04crwdne2936071:0 — Sew zipper to 1st strip of fabric.

If you have a zipper foot for your sewing machine, insert it. Keep the needle in the middle position, the seam does not have to go right next to the zipper teeth.

crwdns2936071:05crwdne2936071:0 — Prepare the 2nd fabric strip

Place the second strip of fabric in front of you with the right (pretty) side facing up.

crwdns2936071:06crwdne2936071:0 — Sew the 2nd strip of fabric to the zipper.

Sew the second strip of fabric to the zipper. Also start at the bottom; the zipper foot must be adjusted so that the needle runs along its other side.

crwdns2936071:07crwdne2936071:0 — Pin the facing and zipper to the jacket.

Lay the jacket in front of you with the inside facing up. Mark the place where the zipper should start with a pin. I want mine to go all the way down, if possible, so I put the pin in just 2 mm from the bottom of the cuff.

crwdns2936071:08crwdne2936071:0 — Sew the facing to the lower waistband

It's best to start on the side that doesn't have the zipper - the fabric is thinner there and will feed better.

crwdns2936071:09crwdne2936071:0 — Pin facing/zipper to jacket

Now flap the facing and zipper over the seam you just sewed so that the zipper is between the jacket and the facing. The zipper tape should now no longer be visible.

crwdns2936071:010crwdne2936071:0 — Sewing the slip/zipper to the jacket

Be sure to use a very strong needle for this seam, preferably a 100 or 110 gauge jeans needle, or alternatively a 100 gauge universal needle. A regular 80 gauge needle would not get through the layers of fabric and would bend or break.

crwdns2936071:011crwdne2936071:0 — Sewing the facing/zipper to the jacket (2)

Lower the presser foot and topstitch the zipper and facing to the jacket opening. Make sure the facing is smooth under the zipper and keep it taut as you sew, so there are no overhangs that the zipper could snag on later.

crwdns2936071:012crwdne2936071:0 — 2. pin the cover

Close the zipper.

crwdns2936071:013crwdne2936071:0 — 2. pin the cover (2)

Open the zipper.

crwdns2936071:014crwdne2936071:0 — Sew 2nd piece to bottom waistband

Sew the 2nd facing to the bottom of the waistband in the same way as the 1st (step 8).

crwdns2936071:015crwdne2936071:0 — 2. pin and sew the cover/zipper to the jacket.

Now fold the facing onto the jacket. The edge of the jacket fabric should lie on the seam with which you sewed the zipper to the facing.

crwdns2936071:016crwdne2936071:0 — Sewing the facings to the upper edge

Now you only have to sew the facing to the upper edge. Pin them in place with pins. The top edge of the facings should run parallel to the top edge of the jacket.

crwdns2936071:017crwdne2936071:0 — Finished sewing in!

This is how the zipper now looks on the top and bottom.

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