crwdns2915892:0crwdne2915892:0
Use this guide to replace the main camera in your iPad Mini 2 Wi-Fi.
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Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
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Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
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Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
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Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
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Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
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Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
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Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
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Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
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Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
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Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Need some extra instruction on how to handle a truly shattered glass. There was only one spot that the suction cup would even hold on the whole screen - top right, and even with tape there is very little structure to drive a pick under. how do you handle that?
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Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.
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Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.
Can you explain how using the iOpener ? That's can be great !
The iOpener used is essentially a bag of gel, which you put in the microwave for 30 seconds. You lay this against the screen edges to transfer heat and loosen up the glue.
You could also use a hot-air blower with a re-work station but that's up to you. Mine worked well up to 150°C
what about heating a cloth bag filled with rice in the microwave? Would that work?
That might work! Rice is less likely to get, and stay, hot enough. But it can't hurt to try! Just be sure you're being patient and letting it really warm up before you pry. People have had luck double bagging a washcloth dipped in very hot water, too.
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Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.
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Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.
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While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
I'm having trouble getting the suction cup to stay connected to the screen to pull it. It just isn't creating a seal no matter how flat I make it. I thought maybe the crack was causing it, so I tried tape. I originally didn't put tape on it because it wasn't losing glass. The tape made it worse of creating a seal. Any advice?
After following instructions to cover cracked glass with packing tape, the suction cup won’t adhere at all. Not even a little bit. Any suggestions?
I had that exact problem when I fixed an Iphone 8. What I did was that I put some ducktape where the suction cup would be placed. That worked for me. That’s of course is if you where doing to replace the glass anyway.
I had a screen on an iPad 4 that was so shattered that I literally had to spend 2.5 hours picking every single piece of glass out with tweezers after pulling the few larger pieces off with tape on them. Sometimes you need a lot of patience to be successful. The final cleaning out of the sticky tape along the sides is also very important once the glass is removed. Or the new screen will stick out an/or not go in neatly.
I also had a problem getting the suction cup to adhere. Tried tape, no luck until I added some KY jelly, which did the trick.
In my expert expertise of opening a total of two screens, a razor blade does an excellent job of lifting the glass enough to get a guitar pick in. If done carefully the blade will not damage the bezel. I never had any luck with the suction cup method. I don’t know if this is better or worse if you have a cracked screen.
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While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.
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Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
Could I use some guitar picks? If so, what gauge (thickness) of a picks should I get?
I'm not sure what the correct balance of thickness to strength you'd need, maybe try a couple different types. The idea is to be thin and fit into the smallest gap, but if it gets bogged down in adhesive, it needs to be strong enough to push through. Be sure to use heat and be patient!
i have to use a blow dryer and pack that came with the replacement is there anything i could do to make the adhesive more hot?
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Reheat and reapply the iOpener.
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Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.
Well if you want to save some time and your screen is shattered just pry up one corner either left or right side at the top and tear the whole screen off going down towards the home button but do not completely remove the screen there is a wire connecting the digitizer to the board inside but tearing off the screen will skip you down to step 29 :-) i seen this in a video and saved me about an hour after the fact because my screen was cracking as i was inserting the blue picks so i ripped the whole screen off and used some adhesive remover to get off all the extra goo leftover
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Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
I found that all the following step were much easier for me using a heat gun while keeping the pull on the screen with the suction cup. Basically heat up a section, put the suction cup on, keep pulling the screen upwards on that side, while using the heat gun to continuously heat along the side. It came nicely off, one or two inches at a time. Once I had a whole side up, I just put some of the picks in to keep it up and continued along the side, heating, pulling, heating pulling. This obviously only works if the screen is not totally shattered. Mine only had two cracks.
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Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.
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If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
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Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
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If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
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Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.
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Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.
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Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.
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Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.
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Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.
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Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
If you have the LTE there is a cable on the right upper side! There’s no mention of this in this guide even though it’s for the LTE. I found out after the fact when I saw I cut the cable with the pick.
Will Lyon, you may want to look again. This is the guide for the WiFi version.
mcr4u2 -
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Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.
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Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass.
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Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
This is not an LTE ipad mini 3, it is a wifi ipad mini 3
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Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.
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Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.
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Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.
For those who are replacing a severely shattered front panel, be aware that there are two smart cover magnets attached to the interior side of the front panel that you will need later. Keep an eye out for them (see steps 49 and 50 below for pictures of what these tiny magnets look like) so that you don't have to go digging through the debris later.
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Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.
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Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.
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Antennas
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Home button cavity
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Digitizer cable
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The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.
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With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.
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Leave the pick in place before moving on.
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Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step's pick, and slide it beneath the home button.
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Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.
Do NOT insert the pick much deeper to the right of the home button, you can easily damage the fingerprint ID chip.
There is no fingerprint id chip in an iPad mini 2 (retina)
Be very careful in the vicinity and to the right of the home button. Only insert the very tip of the pick (similar to the instructions earlier for by the camera). Do not try to go beneath the home but as suggested here, just along the glass edge. I damaged the small metal clip under the button and detached the IC tape from the button, meaning I had to replace the glass touch screen with digitiser and home button.
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Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.
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At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.
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Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.
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Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.
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If reusing the front panel assembly during reassembly, you will need to replace your display adhesive. Use our display adhesive application guide to reapply your display adhesive and reseal your device.
This picture and several others that follow are not for the "LTE" model.
Some of the steps, including the comments, are replicated between guides. Be aware! This can render them somewhat generic, and possibly non-optimal. For instance, this step is replicated between at least the mini 2 LTE, mini 2 Wi-Fi, mini 3 LTE, & mini 3 Wi-Fi.
ciradrak -
Maybe that’s because this is for the WiFi model.
mcr4u2 -
Remember to remove the old black adhesive from the digitizer and iPad frame. Some can be pulled out and some needs a sharp blade to remove. This will give you room to apply your new adhesive strips when reassembling.
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Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel.
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Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.
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Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD:
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Three 3.3 mm screws
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One 4.5 mm screw
This is VERY IMPORTANT please be sure to put the screws EXACTLY how they were when you removed them otherwise your screen will not rotate when you put the new digitizer on. i closed my ipad thinking everything was ok but now the screen does not automatically rotate, but lucky i jailbroke my ipad first and have an activator gesture to rotate for me :-)
stripped the screws at the home button side of the ipad and the precision screw extractor set is too big to work. help?! paramedic064@gmail.com
We have some great posts on Answers about getting stripped screws out, you can refer to What are your tips/tricks for removing or extracting stripped screws? for advice, or ask a new one and see if someone can come up with new ideas. We also have a stripped screw removal guide for you to check out. Good luck!
I found that Phillips #000 work better then the Phillips #00 for this entire product. I'll be recommending a change to the fix kit as well.
This is a tip:
I have a terrible time cleaning the lcd because no matter how hard I try not to touch it, I always get smudges! So take my advice…remove the front film from the new digitizer and place it over the lcd. It is bigger so you can cut it down or just lift it to get to the screws. Now no fingerprints and also less chance for scratches. The front side is easy to clean once it’s installed so need to have that covered while working-the insides are what needs protecting.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger under the LCD between it and the LCD shield plate and lift gently.
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Run a thin string (like floss or fishing line) under the display, starting from the top then working your way down
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Use a thin, flexible card or plastic money note to cut through the adhesive starting from the top.
Be very careful not to get the spudger under the shield plate, but between the LCD and the shield. Also, not that on the LTE models, the antennas are at this end and there is a bit of adhesive holding this end of the LCD down.
This bit of adhesive is located beneath the foam, and runs the entire length of the antennas. You must lift the foam and detach the tape before you're able to get the top to come out the chassis
This is not present in this tutorial and is very frustrating. I fix it must look into this
I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.
Thanks for the fishing line suggestion. It certainly worked for me (used 6lb test line). With using the fishing line, one is a lot less likely to break the LCD compared to using a spudger.
rgstout -
awesome tip thanks
Pa Du -
The tutorial procedure should be edited once and for all to instruct to detach the adhesive strip from the top of the LCD prior to attempting to lift it. Failure to do so will invariably result in a broken LCD!!!
The simplest way to do that is to first gently remove the foam strip running around the top of the LCD with a pair of tweezers. Only then will the shiny metallic adhesive tape be visible and accessible.
I found that if you take two flat plastic spurgers and run one down each side together it works fairly well. Just take your time.
The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.
Yeah, I broke my LCD because the guide did not specify the glue on the top portion if you have an LTE model. I didn’t even try hard at all. I tried to lift it with the plastic spudger and saw that it did not move. Came to check the comments and when I looked back the top corner was already broken.
Thanks iFixit! Awesome guide
Another LCD broken victim. Getting it loose from the adhesive was easy. However, it would not fold over like a book. Something had it bound at the bottom. Heard the dreaded crack. First iFixit fail for me.
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Insert the spudger between the LCD and LCD shield plate and slide it to the far edge of the iPad.
Hi. I noticed that the tutorial is for an LTE iPad mini 2. However, these pictures do not show and LTE device. I'm having issues removing the LCD from the iPad due to the antenna. Any suggestions? (How to remove antenna?)
This step needs extra detail on how the LCD adhesive should be loosened. I've now got stress marks on the LCD which show up when solid backgrounds are displayed on screen as the LCD flexed when trying to pry it out.
I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.
thanks you very much!
ind w -
Great tip about the fishing wire because you will most certainly crack the LCD just yanking it out. Thank you and hit em with the hein
I found that if you take two flat plastic spurgers and run one down each side together it works fairly well. Just take your time.
The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.
"mild adhesive" is really an understatement.
The LCD is firmly attached to the metal plate below it.
Especially if you try to repair an older ipad, the adhesive gets hard.
Do not attempt to lift the LCD with spudgers in an attempt to get it out.
You will break it.
Use fishing line or some other strong wire to cut loose this adhesive.
Even a strong sewing wire will do (it will take 5~6 wires because sharp edges of the housing will cut the wire easily). -
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Hold the LCD with one hand, and the rear body of the iPad with the other.
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Gently pull the LCD away from the speakers to separate the tape, being careful not to pull on the digitizer cable.
this was a pain to remove but the two pieces of tape should be separated using your spudger so that you can remove the lcd.
absolutely. lift the screen 45 degrees before pulling it too
The screen was a tight fit in the recess. Whilst maneouvering it out, it flexed a little. Once reassembled, there are now feint stress marks visible when the screen displays a uniform background. With photos it's not noticeable, but on solid backgrounds, it is very noticeable. :-(
Be careful when pulling the LCD out. Any hints for pulling it out safely should be added to this step.
This step is bad advise. Once you get the LCD unglued top and sides, drop those plastic tools behind it to keep it up and apply heat to the front bottom of the LCD where the tape is applied on either side, use your spudger to push the tape away before you attempt to pull or flip the LCD over. It is very easy to break if you don't get the tape loose enough, so do yourself a favor and free the LCD from the tape before you attempt to maneuver it.
I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.
As others have said this step is rather problematic and following the tuturial instructions will most definitely lead to damaging the LCD. One problem is that the two adhesive tapes are not indicated in the photo: they are large and black and they are partly covered by long strips of thicker material that looks like padding. To remove them it helps to heat a little with the opener and then one can slowly peel them away by alternating the sharp and flat tips of the spudger.
This must be the most difficult part. I took the advice of using fishing line and it worked a treat. However, due to lack of knowledge - I managed to slice straight through the LCD ribbons (all of them). I figure it was glue so kept going! Please take not that fishing line is only good for the sides, not the top where the LCD is attached! New LCD on order for round 2.
Well. I cracked the LCD during this process, so another $100. But, it’s the journey that counts, right? There is adhesive keeping the LCD attached to the aluminum shield. As I was prying the LCD up (I didn't know about the adhesive), I did hear feint cracking. Also it is too tight to try to flip the LCD over as shown. I did heat the bottom strips, but still tried to do it as shown, more cracking. It seems best to heat it and push the adhesive strips back and separate them prior to lifting. As well as the sides of the LCD for lifting!!
I separated the small tape in the middle (5mm), and the large upper tape (20mm), but left the lower tape at the connector in place. That way, the LCD was much easier to pull away gently and to tilt over.
I used a needle nosed tweezers to remove the tape on the bottom left and right. I then used the plastic spudger and went between the LCD and the metal piece. I gently went down the left side about half way and then the right and slowly and gently worked both sides until they separated.
This step is unclear and should be revised, but Abbot’s comment has the right idea. The tape holding the LCD in place should be highlighted in the image. This tape wraps around the lower edge of the panel and extends onto the front face, then a piece of cushion is attached on top. Heat that tape to soften the adhesive then peal it up. The connector for the LCD is on the back side of the panel in the lower right hand corner, it is not near the tape you are pealing away from the panel. Once the tape is separated very little force is required to shift the panel toward the top of the device as depicted. If you attempt to ‘pull the LCD away from the speakers’ with two hands as shown, it will almost certainly be broken. Also, all the youtube explanations (at least the ones I could find) of how to remove the LCD make it look like you lift up on the top which would only cause the LCD to break. So youtube failed this step as well. It’s not easy, be careful.
P.S. as these steps are replicated between more than one device –– I’m working on an iPad mini 3 LTE, the tape may be in different places on other devices?
ciradrak -
The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.
The three tapes is best removed with tweezers! Then the LCD is easily flipped over. Extremely odd it’s not explained in this way.
It is MANDATORY to loosen the 3 tapes as well (step 36), don’t even try to lift it without loosening them first!!!! After you did it you can turn the screen without any resistance! Should be added in this guide!!!!
I just broke my LCD during this step (35). Frrt! I was pulling it back as instructed, and the LCD flexed in my hands. Need a better process.
Like other commenters I found this step inadequately treated. The LCD didn't want to fold over like it ought to and It took me a while to decide how to proceed. I would suggest that one first identify the plastic hinge strips. Zoom in on the pics: there's a lot going on at that edge, it's all black, and you don't want to mess with any of the cable strips, etc. I used a hair dryer to loosen the hinges (I suspect one could heat up a small piece of metal bar and place it on the hinges to loosen) and gradually stretched it. I also think that using gloves instead of holding the LCD with bare fingers would help avoid smudging (I spent a bunch of time getting rid of finger marks.)
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Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
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Lay the LCD on the front panel glass to allow access to the display cables.
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Slide the tip of a spudger between the LCD and the adhesive tabs to free the display.
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Push gently between each of the two adhesive tabs; be careful not to damage any of the nearby cables.
This was harder than it looks. The adhesive tape covers a lot of area and has stuck to it tiny wires that go to the speaker. I had to use the tweezers to very carefully separate the wire from the adhesive, and to then pull the adhesive off the circuit board area in one spot before it would finally come away.
Be careful that it does not pull up all the foam strips, that was my issue.
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Remove the seven 1.8 mm Phillips #00 screws from the LCD shield plate.
My LCD shield plate had many more screws than this. You have to remove them all.
My plate had 8 on the upper line, 6 + 2 at bottom. 16 total.
There are strong magnets on the sides and they keep catching the screws as you take them out. Tweezers are helpful to fish them.
At the assembly stage I found it is easier to use Philips PH000 screw driver bit than PH00. It helped me to get these minuscule screws in place, catch the head holes and drive them into their tight position. While using PH00 the driver would not catch the holes in their head and I was risking scratching the display since the screws refused to settle in the openings.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD shield plate up and out of the iPad.
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Remove the LCD shield plate.
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Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the display cable bracket:
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One 2.7 mm screw
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Two 1.4 mm screws
Why remove the LDC if the microphones are on the other side?
PH000 seems to work better to remove these screws.
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Remove the display cable bracket from the iPad.
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Use the point of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector up off its socket on the logic board.
During reassembly, be sure to well press the battery connector in place. Otherwise, you will ave to re open... as I had to do !
Any advice RE reassembly and the adhesive? Just heat and it re-adheres?
This step is unnecessary. Or I don't know.
This step is unnecessary! I just replaced the screen, and skipped this step!
This step is ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY. If you don’t disconnect the battery FIRST, you risk causing an electrical short that can very easily damage the circuit board and other electronic devices when you unplug them. The only time this is safe is if the battery is completely dead. If you were successful without doing this step, you were really lucky.
Why risk so much by skipping such a simple step that protects so much. It makes no sense to skip this step.
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Use flat end of a spudger to lift the LCD connector up off its socket on the logic board.
This step i also unnecessary. Just flip the LCD back to uncover the digitizer connector.
Whether this step is necessary depends on what you’re replacing/repairing.
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Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad.
Please note that there are 2 strips of adhesive on the left and the right side of the display. Use a string or fishing wire to loosen the adhesive. I cracked my LCD and had to order a new one because this step was missing.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the digitizer cable connector straight up off of its socket.
During reassembly at this point, be very careful to line up both sides of the connector. I came very close to destroying the digitizer cable connectors because I wasn't paying attention.
I learned the hard way that we should be lifting from the short side of the connector, not the long side as shown here. The gold pins inside the FPC socket are very fragile and more likely to break when lifted as shown in this picture.
Yes, I just learned that lesson as well. IMO a bit too ridiculously fragile.
Hi, i just broke this micro pins… it’s extremely fragile. Whats the name and were i can found a replacement to this connector? I ll try to find a friend that have a equipment for soldering this…
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Slide the spudger under the battery side of the digitizer board to begin separating it from the rear case.
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Lift the digitizer board up to free the last of the adhesive.
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Lift and remove the front panel from the iPad.
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Remove the 1.4 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the rear-facing camera cable bracket.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tweezers$4.99
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Use a set of tweezers to grip the rear-facing camera cable bracket and push it toward the rear-facing camera.
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Lift the bracket up off of the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rear-facing camera connector up off of its socket on the logic board.
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Gently push the rear-facing camera cable to the left, away from the logic board.
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Use a plastic opening tool to lift the rear-facing camera up off of the pins holding it to the rear case.
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Remove the rear-facing camera from the iPad.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Great tutorial! My son is a biter and I think this is going to be the third screen replaced on the Ipad. Thought it would be a good time to do the faulty camera too. Maybe a tempered glass screen protector will slow his teeth down this time. Thanks!
