8. After 1 min 30 sec, check the digitizer temperature and make sure that the surface temperature (the opaque black border, not the actual screen) registers at 130 °F (54 °C) or higher. Continue heating on Low until a temperature of 130 °F (54 °C) or higher is reached.

9. When a temperature of 130 °F (54 °C) or higher has been reached, raise the hairdryer another two to three inches from the digitizer. Switch your hairdryer heat setting to High ( or Med, for three-temp hairdryers) and continue heating until a temperature of 161 °F (71 °C) has been reached. Check the temperature every 2 secs to ensure even, consistent heating. Once a temperature of 161 °F (71 °C) has been reached, do not heat the digitizer any further. Doing so could damage the LCD, internal antennas, or faceplate.

10. Repeat steps 6 thru 9 alongside the guide (Steps 28 thru 38) to complete the digitizer adhesive softening process.

Good luck! If this causes anyone any problems, reply here and I’ll try to respond as quickly as possible.

3. Grab a piece of cardboard and cut it to the shape of the Switch screen, or around the same size. You will need this cardboard to protect the LCD and delicate internals.

4. Set your infrared thermometer to the side or somewhere close to the spot where you’ll be heating the digitizer.

5. Grab your hairdryer and set that to the side as well.

6. Position the Switch on the cardboard box so that you are ready to begin heating the first side of the digitizer as specified in Step 28. I found that it was easier to have the heated side facing me, so that I can hold the hairdryer more comfortably.

7. Begin heating the bottom of the digitizer, starting on the lowest setting of your hairdryer. You’ll want to hold the hairdryer just close enough that you have about three or so inches between the heat and the Switch itself. Heating the digitizer will take some time, so do not expect the temperature to rise rapidly. A rapid rise in temperature can damage sensitive internal components, even with the cardboard piece in place.

I used a hair dryer because I don’t own a microwave and didn’t like the idea of boiling the iOpener - which apparently doesn’t work that well anyway. For reference, the hair dryer I used was a CONAIR 1875 Styler. I also used an infrared thermometer, which you’ll absolutely need if you’re not going to use the iOpener. You need the infrared thermometer because you must know when to stop heating the digitizer. There are delicate components nestled in the top of the Switch’s faceplate - right where you’ll be putting the heat. To begin:

1. Prepare your work area by clearing the surrounding surfaces of anything plastic, metal, or electronic - surrounding areas are sure to reach temps of up to 110 °F (43 °C).

2. Get something non-conductive like a small cardboard box to rest the disassembled Switch on top of. This will help to target the heat on the specified area, depending on which step you’re on.

No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

I’ve torn a few ribbon cables in my time. Use your tweezers to nudge the tabs on either side of the ribbon cable and “walk” the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector - slowly!! This should help prevent any tears in the ribbon cable when using tweezers.

For anyone who doesn’t have a pen-style spudger, the tip of your JIS 000 screwdriver can be a great alternative tool. The same steps above can be used, just be extra careful not to tear that foam. Roll the tip of the screwdriver the same way you would roll the spudger tip.

Yeah, that “small board” is the microSD Card reader chip, which was covered literally one step ago. All models have a microSD Card reader, that’s how game data is stored…

My screws took a little coaxing before they were all ready to come out of the back plate, but I remedied this by turning the screwdriver as little as possible with each turn. Use almost no pressure, except for at the very beginning of each screw’s first turn.