iPad Mini 2 Wi-Fi Front Panel Assembly Replacement
crwdns2944107:0crwdnd2944107:0Sam Goldheartcrwdnd2944107:0crwdnd2944107:0crwdnd2944107:03crwdnd2944107:0crwdne2944107:0
crwdns2944111:0February 6, 2023crwdne2944111:0
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crwdns2942287:0crwdne2942287:0Use this guide to fix your iPad Mini 2 screen. This guide will show you how to replace the front panel, including digitizer, home button, and display glass on your iPad Mini 2 Wi-Fi.
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Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
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Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
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Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
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Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
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Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
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Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
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Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
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Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
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Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
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Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.
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Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.
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Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.
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Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.
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While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
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While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.
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Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
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Reheat and reapply the iOpener.
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Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.
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Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
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Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.
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If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
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Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
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If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
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Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.
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Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.
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Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.
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Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.
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Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.
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Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
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Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.
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Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass.
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Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
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Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.
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Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.
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Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.
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Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.
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Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.
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Antennas
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Home button cavity
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Digitizer cable
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The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.
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With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.
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Leave the pick in place before moving on.
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Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step's pick, and slide it beneath the home button.
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Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.
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Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.
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At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.
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Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.
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Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.
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If reusing the front panel assembly during reassembly, you will need to replace your display adhesive. Use our display adhesive application guide to reapply your display adhesive and reseal your device.
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Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel.
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Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.
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Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD:
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Three 3.3 mm screws
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One 4.5 mm screw
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Insert the flat end of a spudger under the LCD between it and the LCD shield plate and lift gently.
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Run a thin string (like floss or fishing line) under the display, starting from the top then working your way down
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Use a thin, flexible card or plastic money note to cut through the adhesive starting from the top.
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Insert the spudger between the LCD and LCD shield plate and slide it to the far edge of the iPad.
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Hold the LCD with one hand, and the rear body of the iPad with the other.
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Gently pull the LCD away from the speakers to separate the tape, being careful not to pull on the digitizer cable.
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Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
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Lay the LCD on the front panel glass to allow access to the display cables.
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Slide the tip of a spudger between the LCD and the adhesive tabs to free the display.
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Push gently between each of the two adhesive tabs; be careful not to damage any of the nearby cables.
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Remove the seven 1.8 mm Phillips #00 screws from the LCD shield plate.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD shield plate up and out of the iPad.
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Remove the LCD shield plate.
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Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the display cable bracket:
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One 2.7 mm screw
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Two 1.4 mm screws
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Remove the display cable bracket from the iPad.
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Use the point of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector up off its socket on the logic board.
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Use flat end of a spudger to lift the LCD connector up off its socket on the logic board.
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Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the digitizer cable connector straight up off of its socket.
During reassembly at this point, be very careful to line up both sides of the connector. I came very close to destroying the digitizer cable connectors because I wasn't paying attention.
I learned the hard way that we should be lifting from the short side of the connector, not the long side as shown here. The gold pins inside the FPC socket are very fragile and more likely to break when lifted as shown in this picture.
Yes, I just learned that lesson as well. IMO a bit too ridiculously fragile.
Hi, i just broke this micro pins… it’s extremely fragile. Whats the name and were i can found a replacement to this connector? I ll try to find a friend that have a equipment for soldering this…
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Slide the spudger under the battery side of the digitizer board to begin separating it from the rear case.
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Lift the digitizer board up to free the last of the adhesive.
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Lift and remove the front panel from the iPad.
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On the replacement front panel, remove the small piece of adhesive backing from the digitizer cable.
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Fold the digitizer cable back over onto itself and press firmly to secure the adhesive.
The old glue was full of tiny shards. I rubbed it all away with many Q-tips and petroleum ether. To protect the LCD I used a sheet of heavy paper. Cleaning took a lot of patience.
Still should have listened to Mike: The digitizer ribbon cable went between the frame and the panel. It was bent too sharply. Touch worked, but the home button did not. When i tried to reopen, the glass cracked. Big disappointment, but ill try again!
Same here, so suspect I have the same problem, didn't see these comments until after I finished!
Took me nearly 2 hours to remove the glass because it just shattered even more every time I used the sucker. Used IsoPropanol to clean.
Checked all was working with the new digitiser and home button by starting iPad before sealing the glass shut, all ok.
Stuck it all down, home button works occasionally, but also siri bleeps on it's own sometimes as if someones pressing the button. Also, if I press either side of the home button I get a reaction as if I've pressed the home button, or sometimes I get the double tap action and sometimes Siri, makes me think that there is something shorting / touching that shouldn't be, unless it's the ribbon.
Will order another kit and give it another go shortly as the glass is sure to break when you re-open.
@Barry Tresadern
I had the same problem with the home button acting crazy. The problem is on the new screen there are metal contacts that are exposed and they are touching the metal frame making it seem the button is being pressed. If you look on the old screen you'll see strips of tape covering these metal contacts. You can either peel them off and put them on the new screen or just use some electrical tape.
Patrick -
With this step, im looking for a replacement screen. I cant seem to see the same connector as the one illustrated here. Is there 2 ribbons mixed there?
James, I think you're referring to the IC chip that most glass panels do not include. If you do not have soldering knowledge (and a lot of confidence and time) then it's crucial that you purchase a panel that has the IC chip attached, otherwise you will need to remove the old one from the broken assembly and re-solder it on to the new one - honestly not worth the time involved unless you know what you're doing.
Katie -
I've been able to replace a shattered screen. Took about an hour and a half. This consisted of mostly cleaning the shards. I wish there were some glue in the kit - I don't know if there is enough left from the previous screen to hold the new one. I'm likely going to use craft glue to make up the difference. Any other suggestions?
Heating the glue with a hair dryer or heat gun helps or you can buy very thin double faced tape.
I thought that it was a successful repair and resealed the iPad and turned it back on after replacing the digitalizer and the LCD screen, yet neither the home button nor the power button are working. After holding the power button, the power will come on but just one "click" the screen does not react. I tried moving the tape around the home button from the broken digitalizer to the new digitalizer, yet neither button works. I need help ASAP, I don't want to damage the iPad screen more by leaving it unopened for extended periods of time. Any suggestions?
the new pannel comes with a yellow tape on those contacts. Do not remove it. (or replace it !)
Yes..do not remove this tape!
Banu -
Yes I learned the hard way as well, be sure you leave the yellow plastic tape over the back of the home button and surrounding circuitry or put tape over this area before install. New screen installed and the home button isn't working :-(
THANK YOU Patboy2008, you saved me a friendship and a lot of heartache. I was racking my brain trying to figure out why the home button was on the fritz. Siri kept interrupting, the screen would go black, then flick on, then apps would randomly open, then it wouldn't even give me enough time to punch in my passcode. It was all about those two SILLY pieces of tape. Sure enough reopened it and noticed that the new screen didn't have the two black pieces of tape the old screen had. So glad I dug it out of the trash and transferred those pieces. It works like a charm now. Oh and this was so much harder to fix than the iPhones. The hardest part is getting the front panel off and if it's broke it'll come off in the tiniest of pieces. I hard shards of glass in my fingers that you were like invisible splinters. Be careful and take your time with this one.
Thanks for comments. Yes, do pay attention the the metal bands in the bottom frame of the front panel. DO cover a trip of electric tape on it. You will find the random moving and touching away.
It pays not to take the protectors off the glass panel adhesive until you have fitted the panel and turned on the ipad to test functionality a few times. (Once the adhesive sticks, it's very difficult to take the panel back off.) Also, I ended up applying two layers of electrical tape over the copper contacts on the panel before the random actions stopped. Now I am closing my third repair on the same machine. Let's hope this one sticks.
In a kit purchased in June 2019, this operation was already done.
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Peel the large clear plastic liner off of the inside of the glass.
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Peel any blue plastic backings covering the adhesive around the perimeter of the front panel assembly.
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Don't remove any copper coverings from the outlined region, such as yellow kapton tape or black electrical tape.
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Ensure the glass panel is free of fingerprints and grime before installing it on your device.
I just received a new front planel and the digitizer connector is wrapped in a black electrical tape. I removed to check for the adhesive between circuit and connector but didn't see any, I re-wrapped in the original black tape which I think should be left alone. Also there was a yellow tape over the back of the home button and circuitry between the digitizer cable and home button. I removed this when I removed the blue plastic on the adhesive but I don't think your suppose to. After repair, home button doesn't work which might be because removing that tape.
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Place the edge of a plastic opening tool on each side of the magnet near the top left corner of the front panel assembly.
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Carefully wedge the edge of the right plastic opening tool underneath the magnet.
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Wedge the left plastic opening tool underneath the magnet and simultaneously pry and push it towards the right plastic opening tool.
On the new front panel with the adhessive pre-installed, there are perforated area on the blue plastic you can peal away just for the magnets without exposing the rest of the adhesive.
I found these come off much easier after applying heat to the area for 5 seconds.
On the kit purchased in June 2019, magnets were included in the replacement part.
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In the kit as of July 2019, there is an area of adhesive (separate from the edge adhesive) on the screen where you want to relocate the magnets. It is in the rough shape of the magnet, so you can see how to orient the magnet (curve parallel to the curve of the case corner). When you close up the screen, the magnets fit into the depression above where the tabs of the LCD are (the ones you remove the screws from in step 31). The magnets shouldn’t be too far away from the copper-colored rim of the interior of the screen, or they will not fit into the depression and may crack the screen when you press it to close. Definitely dry fit!
Hi, I’d like to know if this magnets are necessary to maintain the screen attach, if they do something beside the adhesive. Thank you for your help.
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Use the previously described procedure to remove the smart cover magnet near the bottom left corner of the front panel assembly.
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Use a pair of tweezers to carefully place the upper left smart cover magnet in place.
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Repeat the procedure with the bottom left smart cover magnet.
Do not forget to remove the protective film from inside of new digitizer, remove black insulating tape from bottom of old digitizer and place on new one, covering any and all exposed copper. Take your time - the repair is not hard but it is time consuming
Thank you for mentioning that! I don’t think I would have noticed until too late.
ted -
BEFORE you close everything up power up your ipad and make sure all the buttons and functions work properly, charging, rotation, home button, sleep button
Step 66, it is important to put the magnets in the same Exact place and orientation or you could break the glass (again) during installation.
The orientation of the magnets may also be important to the devices’s ability to wake/sleep in response to the cover being opened and closed.
ciradrak -
No mention is made of using any adhesive during the installation of the new panel. There are gobs of adhesives for many different purposes. Is there any recommendation for re-establishing an adhesive for the new panel?
Step 35b : watch for LCD white screw tabs as you pull up LCD panel so that they don't bind at the bottom and break off (definite crack)!
Step 46: was easier, at least for me, to insert spudger between frame and digitizer board (left side) rather than trying to get under it from its right side.
All of this & they could have simply made the connector cable on the front glass a snap on connector & cut out 60 steps of this repair.
I was repairing the broken glass on my iPad. A lot of the broken glass was in small fragments along the edges which made sliding the pick underneath to loosen the glass quite difficult. Things would go well until I hit a small island of broken glass and the pick would stall as the glass wouldn’t budge. It took several re-heating cycles with the microwave heat pad and a lot of patience to break those loose. In retrospect, probably could have ignored them until the bulk of the glass was removed and then _gently & patiently_ chisel them out separately.
Still had ghost touch issue with the iPad mini so I ended up purchasing Kapton tape on Amazon and used it to cover the entire bottom part of the iPad mini 2 where the Home button is, not just the gold connectors as previously suggested. Apparently this is a common issue with the iPad minis where the digitizer and home button are grounded to the iPad’s chassis. Thankfully, that resolved the issues of ghost touch and my daughter’s iPad is now working like a charm. Just wished your iFixit digitizers were properly prepped with Kapton tape from the factory. Hope this helps with other iFixit customers suffering from the same issue.
I believe I finally figured out the issue with the iPad mini. I feel like an idiot! It was improper installation. Ghosting on a the iPad mini was caused by creasing the digitizer flex incorrectly. It can NOT be allowed to bend backwards and touch the adhesive for the screen (I checked--mine and was bent backwards and creased due to it sticking to the adhesive). The flex must gently bow forward towards the LCD and not be allowed to crease. Unfortunately the digitizer is compromised and unusable. We’ll need a new digitizer but this time I wont make the same mistake
One of the more difficult/frustrating issues I had during reassembly was the tendency of the digitizer cable to place itself between the frame & the glass. This prevented the glass from seating completely in the frame & I believe would have caused damage to the ribbon cable had I not noticed it. I had to use a flat tool to guide the ribbon cable away from the frame as I lowered the glass into place. I am not in a position to do it, but I hope a reassembly document will be added to these instructions, as it’s not simply a matter of “following the instructions in reverse order.”!!!
Good tip! I replaced a digitizer myself after a shop had done it once already. Aside from new cracks, there were problems with dead spots on the screen, and the lock button would shut down but not sleep the screen. The screen I took off looked like the digitizer cable had been pinched like you noted, and I wonder if that was causing the problems.
ted -
If your ipad has a dented corner, you may need to trim the new glass a bit so that it fits flush. The ipad I worked on had been dented in the corner, which what cracked the screen in the first place. The dent pushed in the metal lip enough that a replacement screen would sit on top of it, so that a little too much pressure on the glass will make it crack again. A diamond-coated file will work to file off some of the glass on the corner. Full sized Leatherman multi-tools often have a diamond coating on the back side of the coarse file — it works great. Just be patient as it takes a while to grind off.
You Could Add One more Step: When assembling the screen it is necessary to tuck the digitizer cable back into the tablet as it wants to fold toward the outer edge and prevent the digitizer glass assembly from laying flat against the framework. You can do that with a Spudger by pushing the cabole back into the tablet as you close or seat the glass digitizer.
At which step during reassembly to remove blue protective film on the adhesive is never mentioned. I did it too early and thought of preserving it with cling film which does not peel off afterwards. Don't do this. I suggest removing this stuff just before turning “the page” back on.
Where can you buy the magnets? (not from ifixit)
There is no mention anywhere about ingress of dust between the cover glass and the LCD…is this a nonissue??
Just finished the digitizer replacement by buying a new one for $10 rather than pay $120 to get it repaired. Everything works great! A few tips that weren't mentioned:
1) I used a hair dryer on low heat for 30-40 secs and it softened the adhesive enough to pry it open.
2) If you have the wifi iPad (non-cellular), you don't have to worry about the antenna when prying, as it doesn't have one.
3) Be sure to remove the old adhesive by pulling it off the iPad frame so your new digitizer can sit tight and flush. Most new digitizers have adhesive included (very convenient), just peel off the blue cover vinyl as your final step.
4) Try to use something to cover the LCD screen from fingerprints and dust. I had to use a wet wipe to gently wipe down the LCD. I couldn't get every smudge off but it proved not to matter as it was not noticeable upon completion.
Hope this helps! -
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Step 16 through step 24
I made a mess:
- I slid the picks all around the glass breaking the glass, the antenna and digit cables.
What do I need to fix it ? I have already ordered by you a front glass and a a logic board
(LCD I have it already). What do I need more ?
Pls. Help
Sergio Ungaro
Hey, I have a big problem.
I did all this steps and everything was fine so i put it together. Now I have a ghost-touch if i press the margin at the right edge. I didn't remove the yellow stripe and i thing the cable is not between the frame and the metal.
thx
Had the same issue. Just use Kapton tape and cover the bottom part of the ipad where the Home button is. What’s causing the issue is grounding thus the ghost touch. Search or “Ipad mini ghost touch kapton” on YouTube. Hope this helps.
THE LCD SCREEN IS EXTREMELY FRAGILE
you will crack it with the slightest bend. This is crucial as you try to free it from the STRONG adhesive tape at the bottom speakers. This tutorial has no mention of how careful you have to be with the LCD, or how much stronger the adhesion is in this area, but then again, you can always purchase a new LCD from iFixit, riiiiight?
Good info! Thanx
thomas -
THE LCD IS EXTREMELY FRAGILE. SUPER HIGH WARNING.
You WILL shatter the lcd with the slightest bend. This is critical when you are attempting to free it from the speaker adhesive tape (steps 34-36). The fragility of the lcd screen and the high adhesive strength at the bottom are NOT MENTIONED at all in this how-to, but then again, you can always purchase a new LCD screen from iFixit, riiiiiiiiiigt?
Need input please. install of new glass went off without a hitch, straight forward, however with one little problem. The home button on the new glass does not work. everything else works like it should.... What now?
Same problem as nkorodimas. Everything seems to work fine but the home button. Trying to perform a restore results in an update error and then tries to carry out the restore again. Any advice?
Most likely the front panel connector was not fully inserted or there is debris in the front panel connector. Worst case, the ribbon cable responsible for connecting the home button was damaged during reassembly.
Jeff G -
It would be good to mention the smart cover magnets earlier in the procedure -- especially for those people that are replacing a very smashed front panel. I had to go hunting through a pile of broken glass and adhesive to find the magnets. It would have been good to be aware that they are attached to the front panel and to watch out for them.
You should always read the complete procedure BEFORE beginning the procedure. That way, you usually eliminate any surprises.
lcd is bonded to body with adhesive and is extremely fragile, this is not mentioned, also when placing the new digitizer you can not just simply folllow the guide in the reverse order because DIGITIZER CABLE GETS STUCK BETWEEN THE GLASS AND BODY. this causes glass lifting up and digitizer cable to get damaged. reckless guide, 2/10
I agree. I had to carefully manipulate the cable with a flat tool to get it to stay away from the frame. Luckily I didn’t break the cable before I noticed it’s position. I had several fitment problems, so I started over with a new adhesive kit. My problems with fitment were because the frame was slightly bent & a dent in the side needed to be filed down to allow the glass to fit properly. The adhesive kit did not come with any instructions, but luckily I was able to figure out in which order to peel the plastic covers. The strips did not come packaged as in the picture & had sticky clear plastic sheets on both sides & the actual adhesive backing was clear, making it difficult to know which to peel off first.
kevs -
Went smoothly for the most part. LCD ended up cracked as well. Was not a result of disassembly. Thanks for the guide. It was detailed and certainly helped with the disassembly.
I have reused the digitizer after replacing the LCD. I don't have any response from about a quarter of the screen each side (left and right). I did try covering the copper but didn't make much difference.
Any ideas??
Sounds like either the touch IC on the screen has been moved or the digi has been broken in some place. I'd reccomend a new digi that should solve the touch issues, if it has the IC pre soldered makes the job a lot easier.
Quick question! I got a small piece of glass on the LCD screen, and it left a white mark. Now I'm trying to figure out if that wrecked the LCD screen, or if that isn't going to matter. Because the last thing I want to do is put it all back together and see that the LCD screen is messed up. Any advice?
More than likely just gonna to leave a mark on the LCD it wont effect usage you will see it there in use though, 9 times out of 10 it'll all function fine with no issues
First I broke the LCD as well (my bad) :(
when all was finished, you apparently need to follow a (only 1 correct) sequence to reassemble the ribbons, so i blew up an (for me) not repareable fuse on the mother board ... so had to throw all away :(
however was my first mishap after fixing quit a lot of diffrent versions of iphones, so it was learners money spent ...
Performed the repair and was extremely careful! The ipad powers up and the home button works, but the screen is not responding to touch?
Finished the repair yesterday and have been using the iPad for last 24 hours and everything seems to be working great. Like a couple of others have mentioned, be sure to read all the instructions AND comments before starting. For example, knowing ahead of time that you need to remove the magnets from the touch panel glass to reuse is very important. My front panel was completely shattered and came off in pieces, so I probably would have missed that if I had not read the instructions first.
For a shattered screen like mine, the suction cup doesn't work. I used Duck Tape to hold the screen somewhat together and folded tabs into the Duck Tape so I had something to hang on to. Take your time and be patient on Steps 32 to 36 so you don't damage the LCD. I read the instructions and comments and took my time loosening the adhesive.
At the end, I left the covering on the adhesive on the touch panel and powered it up to be sure it worked before I exposed the adhesive and put it together.
Thanks for the tip
Pa Du -
this is a very comprehensive guide. all i can say is thanks so much! i've been fearing this repair but feel much better now.
Great guide. Very comprehensive. Make sure the home button works properly on your replacement part and is aligned correctly before you start . Beware the white / black border of the digitiser scratches very easily.
i replaced the screen and digitizer but the the touch screen is unresponsive. i know pluged the digitizer in.
Taylor youngreen (Kodi4444) - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
I held the power button and the home button and the apple icon popped up and i think it just restarted and now it works
My digitizer glass is completely shattered, so it came off in many many pieces. I can’t find even one smart magnet. We don’t use a magnetic cover for the ipad, so can I continue without the smart magnets?
Just repaired my iPad Mini 2, the Guide is very thorough. Only problem is that now my “Power” button works only to make the iPad Start or Shutdown (no “wake” function more). The home button does not work, the accelerometers seems not to work anymore as the Screen Rotation does not work anymore. Plus I get some random “sleep” of the iPad during operation. I guess I’ll need to open it all over again :S
What made this repair difficult for me was that my screen was significantly cracked and there is no easy way to get it out. It broke a lot more and made a huge mess. I ended up having glass at the top and bottom that I had to basically use the metal spudger to completely remove it.
I recommend covering the LCD with a large cloth while you work to remove all the broken bits of screen. This will help avoid getting finger prints on it or tiny pieces of glass on it. If you do get tiny glass particles on he LCD I recommend using compressed air to remove the glass. If you try to wipe it off it will scratch the LCD.
The other hard part of this repair was replacing the magnets for the sleep functionality to work properly. I did not buy my replacement screen from iFixit which may have been a mistake. I have heard that some of the 3rd party screens don’t work well on replacing the magnets. One of my magnets also broke. I wish that the replacement screens game with the magnets pre-installed in the correct places.
Thx for the instructions. Fits like a glove and Works ;)
Cheers
TMo
When reassembling and replacing the LCD shield plate, the tiny screws will want to jump onto the magnets on the left side. I used the combination of tweezers and the philips driver to push the screws into the holes.
Ok I powered it up the first time and the screen lit up and apple stuff came up but the next time I powered it up nothing on the screen. When I connect the charger u can hear the noise to start changing but nothing on screen??? What did I do wrong?
Ok so the instructions worked great but the home button no longer works?!! Help!
I was not that careful with getting the lcd out, so I damaged it and had to buy a new one. Also, the digitizer I bought from ebay did not have the circuit for the wake sensor, so sleep/wake with cover was not working (note that the magnets are only for holding the cover in place). Did not mind that so much, but the replacement I bought was so bad that the button broke within two months, so I replaced digitizer again, this time with a quality one. Now it works fine, except for the lcd flickering occasionally, which gets fixed by putting the ipad face down on a table and knocking it on the edges with my hand. Don’t know what causes that, but I am reluctant to open it again. With the extra parts I ordered the cost was almost equal to a professional replacement, which may (or may not) have had better end result. But learned some things along too ;)
I believe I finally figured out the issue with the iPad mini ghost touch after installing a new digitizer. I feel like an idiot! It was improper installation. Ghosting on a the iPad mini was caused by creasing the digitizer flex incorrectly. It can NOT be allowed to bend backwards and touch the adhesive for the screen (I checked--mine and was bent backwards and creased due to it sticking to the adhesive). The flex must gently bow forward towards the LCD and not be allowed to crease. Unfortunately the digitizer is compromised and unusable. We’ll need a new digitizer but this time I wont make the same mistake.
Great guide for repair, my only hiccup was the darn home button working, had to take the tape covering the contacts on the old screen off and move them to the new one.
Overall, it was a great experience!
On my repair, the black tape covering the home button peeled off when I removed the tape covering the adhesive strip on the front glass. I have not had an issue with the operation tho. Also, the instructions don’t make any mention of removing the old adhesive around the edge of the case. I did it, as I assumed that the adhesive on the glass plus the old adhesive would have caused a fit problem. My digitizer connector did not have foam on its back & the old foam was not removable. I hope that will not be an issue.
Kev
I certainly appreciate the effort that went into providing these instructions, but unfortunately the reassembly is totally ignored. It is NOT just a matter of reversing the disassembly instructions! As evidenced in some of the above comments, reassembly issues have been the cause of quite a few problems.
Excellent! Great for those without broken screens. Even with a broken screen, it still suffices for a break-down of all the important steps and things to watch out for. For my second and more successful repair on an iPad Mini 2, I would highly recommend the iOpener to help. FOLLOW the directions, or expect other results.
What about the Home button!?!?!?
Thanks for a great repair guide!! I’ve used your guide twice with sucess!
FWIW - my replacement front panel came with the magnets attached. Thanks for this guide. I did spend an extra 10 minutes using “Goof Off Pro Strength” on the chassis rim to get the glue remnants off before reassembly.
Worked great. Thanks so much for the excellent guide. My digitizer is fixed and the iPad is up and running perfectly again!
Very difficult assembly, but doable. My glass had shattered before I started, and that made the removal quite difficult. With a shattered screen, the suction cup is worthless, and I had to remove the shards of glass piecemeal. A handy tip: If the tweezers you use get too sticky with adhesive, use acetone to clean off the adhesive. That really helps.
Worked fine. You need to be careful about where you put tape if the glass is cracked so that the suction cup sticks, and you may need to slide picks in other places to work around those cracks.
It would be nice if the guide explained how to put the new adhesive on. I had to guess, and don’t think I did it exactly right.
Where can you buy the magnets? (not from ifixit)
Thanks for the easy to follow guide. It only took 1 hour and 15 minutes it’s like a new ipad
Rob from Rush
Is it necessary to transfer the magnets?
Fairly straight forward with the following comments:
1. The iOpener should be HOT. Hot enough so you can only hold it by its handles. Then the adhesive will soften up, but a “warm” iOpener is not sufficient
2. I used dental floss to remove the LCD, worked perfectly, thanks for the tip!
3. The replacement front had some protective film on the BACK side as well? When I assembled it I noticed “bubbles” in the scene of the kind that you get when you apply a protective screen. But I have no protective screen and now its too late to fix…
4. The digitiser cable gets crammed between the body and the front panel if you don’t pay attention to it during reassembly
5. Ohh, and the magnets….
Not a comment more of a question. When i screwed back in the screws on slide 39 i failed to see that one is slightly longer than the others. This resulted in the screw bracket coming away from the board. Does this matter?? The screen wont work now and was before this. Its the only thing i can think of that could have caused the problem. I tired the screen in an ipad mini one to see if the screen would, it did not :( I just used the glass to fix the ipad mini one and its perfect. I really don’t think there’s a problem with the lcd as i was super careful taking it out. Any thoughts anybody??
Just finished in a little more than 1 hour (no rush, just to give a hint). I have two kits with two iOpener, it speeds up things a bit. And it’s my second time opening this iPad, after a battery replacement two years ago.
You shoud add hints a to remove protective adhesives before assembling it back, I almost forgot to remove the inside one of the glass :). And also one should be careful when removing the red tape from the glass (that marks the digitizer) : I peeled it a little too fast and some residue stayed, fortunately it’s not visible once finished.
Oh in fact it is a real step in the english tutorial, not in the french translation.
[Pour les francophones, vérifier la version anglaise qui donne plus de détails par endroits :) ]
Nevermind, a lot of help here again, thanks everyone :)
