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Use this guide to replace the front "selfie" camera in your Samsung Galaxy S23.
Note: Retaining water resistance after the repair will depend on how well you reapply the back cover adhesive, but your device will lose its IP (Ingress Protection) rating.
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Unplug any cables from your phone.
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Hold the side key and the volume down button, then select "Power off" to turn off your phone.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the back cover for two minutes to soften the adhesive.
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Apply a suction handle to the back cover, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
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Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the cover and the frame.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap.
When inserting the first pick, I partly cracked my backplate: if the opening is not long enough, inserting the pick puts vertical pressure on the backplate and it'll crack. I suggest slicing a few centimeters of glue before inserting the pick.
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Slide the pick back and forth along the right edge to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick inserted near the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the back cover for two minutes.
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Insert a second opening pick at the bottom right corner.
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Rotate it around the bottom right corner to separate the adhesive.
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Slide your opening pick to the bottom left corner to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the back cover for two minutes.
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Rotate the opening pick around the bottom left corner to separate the adhesive.
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Insert a third opening pick at the bottom left corner.
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Slide your pick toward the top left corner to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the back cover for two minutes.
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Insert a fourth opening pick at the top left corner.
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Rotate it around the top left corner to separate the adhesive.
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Slide your opening pick to the top right corner to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Line up the tip of an opening pick with the flash cutout.
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Slide the opening pick under the top of the back cover until you feel it start to snag on the adhesive.
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Keep sliding the pick toward the bottom of the phone until you feel the adhesive completely separate from the back cover.
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Grab and remove the back cover.
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Remove any adhesive chunks with a pair of tweezers or your fingers. Apply heat and isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) if you're having trouble removing the adhesive.
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If you're using custom-cut adhesives, follow this guide.
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If you're using double-sided tape, follow this guide.
Just before removing the backplate, take care at the long ribbon cable (in white on the 2nd and 3rd photos, next to the black wireless charging patch). In my case, part of it was gently glued to the backplate for some reason, so double-check that you've separated it from the backplate before attempting to open it, or you might just rip the ribbon cable entirely. In my case, this was preventing me lifting the backplate for more than a few millimeters, and I'm glad I didn't force it before trying to understand exactly what was going on.
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Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil press connector from the motherboard.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the thirteen 3.5 mm‑long screws securing the wireless charging coil and the loudspeaker:
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Six screws securing the wireless charging coil
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Seven screws securing the loudspeaker
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Insert the point of your spudger in the notch at the top left corner of the loudspeaker.
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Pry up to unclip the loudspeaker from the frame.
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Use your fingers to lift the loudspeaker away from the frame to fully separate it.
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Remove the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker from the frame.
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Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the earpiece speaker press connector.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 3.5 mm‑long screws securing the earpiece speaker.
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Insert the flat end of your spudger between the bottom edge of the earpiece speaker and the sliver shield on the motherboard.
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Twist the spudger to unclip the earpiece speaker from the frame and remove it.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the front camera press connector.
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Use a hair dryer or a heat gun to heat the front camera for 90 seconds.
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Use the flat end of your spudger to pry the front camera from its recess in the frame.
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Use a spudger to lift the front camera out of its recess until you can grip it with your fingers.
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Remove the front camera.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—be sure to transfer remaining components and remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Samsung Galaxy S23 Answers Community for troubleshooting help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—be sure to transfer remaining components and remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Samsung Galaxy S23 Answers Community for troubleshooting help.
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Thanks for this tutorial, I successfully changed my front camera that was no longer focusing correctly! Turns out the replacement one doesn't focus well either (stuck to close-up instead of stuck to infinity), but well, that's another story!
