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Use this guide to replace the screen on your Moto G6, including the midframe which is glued to the display.
Before you begin, download the Rescue and Smart Assistant app to backup your device and diagnose whether your problem is software or hardware related.
Make sure your replacement part includes both the display and the midframe—this guide does not cover separating the display from the midframe.
This procedure involves removing the battery, which may be damaged during the removal process. We strongly advise you do not reuse the battery as doing so may pose a safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.
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Insert a paperclip or SIM card eject tool into the small hole in the SIM card tray on the right side of the top edge of the phone.
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Press the tool into the hole to eject the tray.
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If possible, drain the battery before disassembly. When the battery is charged, there's an increased risk of a dangerous thermal event if the battery is overheated or damaged during repairs.
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Prepare an iOpener and heat the back of the phone along its bottom edge for about two minutes, or until it's slightly too hot to touch. This will help soften the adhesive securing the rear glass.
At what temperature shold the glass be heated to? My heat gun goes from 250 up to 1350.
START LOW.
These plastics can be almost endlessly remelted, held at temp, etc., if done gently.
With a heat gun, I'd hesitate to go too far past 250°F/115°C too quickly until I was comfortable with the material.
Plastic WILL begin to burn and permanently deteriorate at 350-400°F or so.
Silicone can handle up to 400-500°F.
(Get a cast iron pot or pan to roughly 250°F/110°C, then invert and put a silicone cookie sheet on it to make a work surface that will make life waaaaaay easier. Preheat the device along with the pan for a few minutes, too.)
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Apply a suction cup to the bottom edge of the rear glass.
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the rear glass and the frame.
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If you have trouble, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive, and try again. The adhesive cools quickly, so you may need to heat it repeatedly.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap you created under the rear glass.
I'm stuck on this step (literally and figuratively). I've heated it pretty hot and pulled pretty hard on the suction cup, but I can't see a gap…
I used a piece of laminating plastic instead of the pick and managed to slide it in!
My back delaminated at this point. That is, the clear plastic started to come away leaving the paint layer behind. Mine is (was) the indigo blue one.
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Slide the pick all along the bottom edge of the phone to slice through the adhesive securing the rear glass.
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Heat the right edge of the back of the phone to soften the adhesive underneath.
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Slide the pick along the right edge of the rear glass to separate the adhesive underneath.
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Heat the top edge of the back of the phone to soften the rear glass adhesive.
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Slide the pick all along the top edge of the phone to slice through the adhesive securing the rear glass.
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Heat the left edge of the back of the phone to soften the adhesive underneath.
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Slide a pick along the left edge of the phone to slice through the rear glass adhesive.
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If the glass remains stuck, re-heat and slice the adhesive repeatedly as needed.
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Lift the rear glass carefully, making sure it's fully separated from any adhesive.
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Remove the rear glass.
When cleaning old adhesive off the back glass, be careful not to scratch the inner coating of the glass. If you scratch this coating with tweezers, it will leave visible “nicks” on the back glass.
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Use a pair of tweezers to carefully peel up the black tape covering the battery.
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Remove the tape.
On my phone the sticker was covered by another NFC tag that was attached to the board under the cover. I yanked it out, breaking it in the process, but if you peel that sticker off the batter sticker first and leave it attached at the end, you should have more success.
Yes, there's the NFC tag that isn't mentioned, with its connection to the left. Thanks for the tip, Stuart; I gently lifted mine to the left and it seems to be intact. I guess I won't know until I try to pay for something.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove seventeen screws securing the plastic cover:
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Eleven grey 3 mm-long screws
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Five black 2.5 mm-long screws
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One silver 3.5 mm-long screw
The holes for the black screws are marked with a small triangle to differentiate them from the holes for the gray ones. I found this super helpful when reassembling!
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Insert the pointed end of a spudger into the notch at the top left edge of the plastic cover.
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Pry up with the spudger to lift the upper edge of the cover and release the clips holding the cover down.
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Remove the plastic cover.
When reinstalling plastic cover, alignment is critical for underlying contacts to line up. Test all functions before sealing up the phone. If camera or speaker don’t work, recheck plastic cover installation and correct until all phone functions operate.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up the battery connector and disconnect it.
What is the black part the battery is connects to called? The black part connected to the body of the phone.
Be very careful on this step! If you pry it out too roughly the connector will break. If you aren't very precise when putting the plug back in you will smash either the tiny tabs on the plug or the connector itself.
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Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the right half of the screen for at least two minutes, in order to soften the battery adhesive underneath. Reheat and reapply the iOpener as needed.
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Use an opening pick to steadily pry the battery up, starting from the outer edge of the battery.
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Remove the battery.
I found it easier to remove the battery after I removed the mother board.
It’s much easier to remove the battery after the motherboard is removed from the opposite side
Merci. La batterie est difficile À décoller Mais tout été parfait.
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Use the pointed edge of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the three ribbon cables on the bottom right edge of the motherboard.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the yellow microphone gasket.
It's not entirely necessary to remove this gasket if you're replacing the screen, as the motherboard will lift out just fine with it attached. The important part is to make sure it doesn't fall off and get lost!
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the front-facing sensor cable on the top left edge of the motherboard.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up the locking tab on the button cable's ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to slide the button cable out of its socket.
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Use a Phillips #000 driver to remove two 2.5 mm-long screws securing the motherboard.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger pry up the top edge of the motherboard, while keeping it clear of any cables or connectors.
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Slide the motherboard toward the top edge, until it is free, and remove it.
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Use tweezers to lift the red microphone gasket out of its recess in the frame.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up one corner of the earpiece speaker.
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Continue lifting the speaker until it is completely separated from its adhesive.
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Remove the earpiece speaker.
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Gently slide an opening pick under the front-facing sensor cable to slice through the adhesive holding it to the midframe.
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Use the opening pick to carefully pry the front-facing sensor array away from the midframe.
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Remove the front-facing sensor array.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the vibrator motor and its cable up from the adhesive securing them to the midframe.
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Remove the vibrator motor.
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Insert an opening pick between the power and volume button circuit board and the frame.
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Slide the pick behind the circuit board, across the whole board, to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the frame.
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Use tweezers to carefully pull the volume and power button circuit board out of its slot. If it's difficult to remove, make sure you've sliced through all its adhesive.
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Use tweezers to lift the two silver retention brackets flanking either end of the volume and power buttons straight up and remove them from the phone.
In my phone these were adhered to the frame. I thought I was doing something wrong at first when they didn't lift as I expected, but they just needed a bit of prying to lift!
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Use the point of a spudger to push against the back of the volume button, behind its upper end, so that the upper end of the button slides out of the phone.
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Use tweezers to gently remove the volume button, pulling up from the upper end.
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Use the point of a spudger to push against the back of the power button, behind its lower end, so that the lower end of the button slides out of the phone.
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Use tweezers to gently remove the power button, pulling down from the lower end.
I thought this button was symmetrical when I removed it. It's not. The slightly larger hook goes towards the bottom to hook around the retaining bracket
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Only the screen assembly remains.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer additional components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
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To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Motorola Moto G6 Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Motorola Moto G6 Answers community for help.
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hello does anyone knows what is the part number of the housing/bracket or gasket (not sure how to call it) that holds the powerr and volume bottom into place on moto g6play?
Nice instructions. I suggest adding that around step 24 or 25 removal of the rubber gasket/boot around the selfie camera be included. I didn’t see this anywhere in the instructions but found the part rolling around my table shortly after these steps. Also, as a general suggestion, and ice cube tray make organizing all the screws and little parts pretty easy.
Thanks for identifying the selfie gasket.
This can be done more quickly and easier by removing the front glass too. Then unplugging the 3 cables from the motherboard, and feeding your new screen cables through the front into the back.
Where can i order the genuine screen (India) ? I asked in moto forums, they said only repair centers have genuine parts. :(
I followed this guide and it worked like a charm to replace my broken screen. However, now the phone won’t get a cell signal. Does anyone have any ideas what might have happened?
Very helpful, thanks!
I found it helpful to remove the motherboard first, then the battery, as it gave me more room to work when loosening the battery adhesive, and then reinstall the motherboard first to help with positioning the battery during reassembly.
Worked for me, thanks for writing it up.
The sim card eject tool has snapped inside the ejector hole,is there another way to get the sim card out ?.
Amanda Ashley - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
You can try to carefully push the snapped pin with another ejector tool to eject the tray. Otherwise, lightly tap the phone edge to try to get the snapped pin out.
Arthur Shi -