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This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.
Use this guide to remove and replace the rear camera assembly on the Google Pixel 5. Both cameras modules are replaced as a single unit.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the screen for one minute.
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Screen seam: This seam separates the screen from the rest of the phone. Do not pry at this seam.
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Bezel seam: This is where the plastic bezel designed to protect the screen meets the frame. It's held in place by plastic clips. This is where you should pry.
Please remove the image of the pick in the bottom of the phone in Step 2. This led me to place a pick there BEFORE step 5 which damaged my digitizer. Now I have to replace the entire screen as a result.
Alternatively, add the image from step 5 with the suction cup in place, or just draw an arrow digitally to the seam you're referring to in step 2. Or call "Step 2" "Important Note" instead of a step.
Wow, I'm glad I read this first. I too assumed this step was about inserting the pick, but wasn't sure because it wasn't clearly written that way.
Agreed with the "important note" idea, along with combining this with step 5 where the context is actually relevant.
Just made this same mistake and the photo is still there... there goes another $180...
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the screen—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
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Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
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Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen and its bezel frame when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next step.
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Apply a suction cup to the screen, as close to the heated edge as possible.
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Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap.
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Insert the opening pick into the gap.
"Insert the opening pick into the gap." NOT the gap under the glass, the second gap... If not you will probably break your screen, at least I did. Especially important if your pixel 5 shipped with the screen gap :(
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Slide the opening pick back and forth along the bottom of the screen to slice the adhesive.
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Leave the pick inserted in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for one minute.
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Insert another opening pick into the bottom left corner of the screen.
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Slide the opening pick around the left corner.
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Continue to slide the pick up towards the front camera to slice the adhesive on the left edge of the screen.
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Leave the pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
I suggest placing an orientation sticker on the screen so you don't lose track of where that delicate ribbon cable is. I gently bent one, immediately after doing a successful one, resulting in a costly screen replacement. It's important to know that it's incredibly delicate.
I bent one of the picks at the end up 90 degrees with the tweezers to a depth of 3/16" and it worked beautifully. Left it on that side to remember where it was important.
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Insert another opening pick into the top left corner of the screen.
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Slide the pick around the front camera and across the top edge of the phone.
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Slide the pick to the top right corner of the phone and leave the pick inserted.
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Insert an opening pick into the bottom right corner of the screen.
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Slide the pick up to the top right corner to slice the last edge of adhesive.
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Use the opening pick from the top left corner to lift up the left edge of the screen a few millimeters. This will keep the clips from snapping back down into the case.
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Lift up on the right side of the screen and open up the phone like a book.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers to grip the screen connector cover securing the screen flex cable.
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Push the clip in towards the connector to unlatch it.
I found it easier to use the spudger here rather than the tweezers (which have sharp ends that could damage something if you happen to slip).
some 5a models will have a screw instead of clip , here's a photo https://imgur.com/a/9dZG5pQ
You commented on the guide for the Pixel 5, not the 5a: Google Pixel 5a
Pixel -
I just fought with this part using the tweezers for several attempts, and then with the spudger it came right out when I applied force towards the center of the left edge.
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Use the tip of the spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen flex cable.
The curved ends of the blue iFixit Opening Tool helped me reseat the connector when installing the new screen.
Jesus no wonder the Chinese factory workers kill themselves, this thing is brutal
So hard to get this thing reseated to test the screen, even before putting the adheasive round the phone edge to finish the job. What made it particularly hard was that the flex cable on mine seemed very short compared to video's i've seen online.
Reattaching this press connector was the worst! By the time I had done all the steps below and then in reverse, I was ready to be DONE. Be careful, patient and gentle.
I too wanted to test my screen before the final adhesives and when I finally got the connection done and tested my screen, I HATED that I had to undo the connection to attached the adhesive.
If using the Pixel 5 display adhesive that comes in the battery repair kit, there are actually two sets of blue protective covers. One that helps align the adhesive to the frame. Once that is removed, there is a very thin blue cover on the adhesive itself - that does split in two pieces. So, all this said, I could have attached the adhesive before testing the screen and would have been able to leave the adhesive strip with the blue protective cover in place if I needed to make any adjustments before sealing the screen to the frame.
So I was reassembling everything after changing the battery.
Now my only step left is to reconnect the display. However by doing so and trying to turn it on the screen doesn't work... I feel the haptics, but the display is no longer responsive. Please help.
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When handling your screen, grip it by its edges.
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When placing the screen on your work area, make sure nothing is touching the bottom of the screen. Consider placing it on a soft, lint-free cloth.
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Remove the screen.
Where from we can buy the screen. Thanks
the screen does not fit
After reconnecting the screen, is it necessary to remove a screen protector (if installed) for the a proper screen calibration?
Yes. Remove the screen protector when installing the screen.
Remaining adhesive - very little actually pulled up in strips, most had to be gently scraped up. The 90% alcohol was a must to help soften the adhesive that remained. I did not get all of it off.
The custom cut adhesive guide was very helpful. I did use the iOpener to heat up the edges after I installed the screen to help create the best seal. I believe this also helped deal with the old adhesive I hadn't been able to remove and allowed for a secure, tight fit of my screen to the frame.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers to lift up the graphite tape until you are able to grip it with your fingers.
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Peel off the graphite tape.
On reassembly, I missed the graphite tape installation. Will this be an issue?
I believe graphite tape is used for heat dissipation to help keep the phone cool and not overheat so I would say it's an important component. If you can reinstall then do as heat will affect the operation of the device and impact the battery and internal components.
Luckily the kit came with graphite tape replacement as I accidentally tore through mine when using the sharp tweezers. Here I recommend using the crocodile tweezers as these aren't as sharp and have a bigger surface area to grip.
If you're dumb like me you won't find the crocodile tweezers until you look under the tools tray. I slid my tray out of its box right onto the work surface, so I never noticed the tweezers underneath.
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Use tweezers to peel off the graphite pad covering the charging plate cover.
Would have been much more helpful to start off by saying to be careful removing this piece so you can reuse.
Also would have been helpful to say that the kit comes with a new one, so don't worry about saving it.
I found the sharp tweezers accidentally cut through the graphite tape and graphite pad. Use the crododile tweezers instead of the pointed ones to avoid ripping the tape.
To clarify what lupa said: the kit does in fact come with a new graphite pad for the charging plate cover. It took me a while to find it, finally found it underneath my parts tray on the table somehow so it may slide around inside the shipping box.
I forgot to put back the graphite thermal pad when reassembling it. Now it is all glued back together and it is working like a charm. Should I worry? 🤔
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 4.6 mm-long screws securing the charging plate cover to the midframe.
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Use tweezers to remove the charging plate cover.
Using the repair part tray to hold stuff that's needed later worked well for me
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the eight 4.6 mm-long screws securing the midframe.
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Use tweezers to lift up the right side of the midframe.
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Remove the midframe.
Removing the midframe may cause a metal-foam spacer above the light sensor to pop out. After placing in the midframe on re-assembly, you can use the tweezers to squeeze the spacer back in between the midframe and the metal divider near the top of the phone.
There is a picture of this spacer at https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Google+Pixe.... To replace it, first replace the midframe. Then, before screwing the midframe back down, use the tweezers to pinch the space together, compressing the foam in the middle, and slide it into place.
In step 21 (and step 23) the photo showing the spacer shows the cover over the rear camera and apparently the camera itself removed. But this is not required and nor is it instructed in this guide. Confusing for photo to not match what I'm looking at.
FYI My model Pixel 5 SKU: GA01316-UK does not have a spacer.
I was very careful and looking specifically for this when removing the screen however it is just an empty cavity with nothing there. I guess it differs based on different PIxel 5 models?
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Use the pointed end of the spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and disconnect it from the motherboard.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 4.1 mm shouldered screw.
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Use the spudger to disconnect the two rear camera press connectors from the motherboard.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers to lift up on the rear camera assembly to remove it from its housing.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
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Hi! Will this procedure mess with the IP68 certification?
Hi Mariano! That would depend on well you were able to replace the screen adhesive.
It would be helpful to know for how long ally the heated pad
Yuri Deglin - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
Agreed, my friend from the past.
Albert Einstein -
If you click on the "iOpener" link, it tells you to heat it up for 30 seconds, and if you're using a microwave with a carousel, make sure it moves freely.
Azurina Schalk-Smith - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
How long do you think it would take with a hair dryer?
Gen L. - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
Don't have a microwave, so I boiled the kettle, left the iOpener in for 5 minutes and it was a good temperature to go. Doesn't need to be that hot to be effective
Rick - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
i damaged my digitizer using a hair dryer ugh
marco - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0