iMac Intel 27" EMC 2639 Fan Replacement
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crwdns2942287:0crwdne2942287:0Replace a broken or noisy fan in your iMac.
Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.
Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0iMac Intel 27" Cardboard Service Wedge$4.99
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With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs can be completed with the iMac laying down, but are faster and easier with an iMac service wedge.
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If you are using the iFixit cardboard service wedge, follow these assembly directions to put it together.
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Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case.
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Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.
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Run the tool up along the left side of the display.
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Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.
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Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.
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Continue along the top of the display.
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Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.
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Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.
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Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Plastic Cards$2.99
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Set the iMac face-up on a table.
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Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.
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Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame, and cut any remaining adhesive near the corner.
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Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.
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Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.
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Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.
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Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.
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Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.
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Insert the card back into the top left corner.
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With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case.
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If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.
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Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.
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While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable.
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Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.
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Disconnect the display data cable.
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Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.
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Remove as much of the adhesive as possible by grabbing it at the outer edges, and then pulling or rolling it towards the middle.
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If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.
Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..
you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out
What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.
[|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]
You probably had just an SSD installed and no HD, which is on the opposite side of the motherboard (and quite a bit more work to access).
Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.
J’ai réussi à intervenir dans l’iMac sans décoller l’ensemble de l’écran. Je l’ai ouvert en laissant la dernière partie collée (vers le logo Apple) et qui sert comme une charnière. Bien calé et assuré l’écran n’a pas bougé et j’ai pu changer mon disque dur facilement. Le grand avantage et d’avoir l’écran toute suite juste quand on le recolle par la suite.
Well, I of course touched a soldering point in the red area as my hand slipped. I heard and felt a tiny “click” and after replacing the HDD with SSD etc I can not power the iMac up anymore. Not a sign of life :-( I suppose I broke the power supply. Can someone confirm? Or could something else have broken too?
I took my time and pulled both tabs slowly gently. Easily removed and glass came right off.
Before removing any circuit boards or speakers remove the 4mm bar that runs the width of the case, behind the bottom edge of where the screen sits.
It is amazing how much easier you will find it to remove the speakers and circuit boards with this bar removed.
However, before you remove the bar insert a sheet of paper between it and the circuit boards to prevent a short circuit.
The bar is held in by 5 small Phillips head screws (first pictured in step 22).
Once you remove the bar bend the sheet of paper over the front of the case to keep it in place and then remove your circuit board(s).
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Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. Lay the display face down on a flat, soft surface.
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It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.
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If there is a wire or cable underneath adhesive tape, always pull the tape off first.
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If the cable is glued to the chassis, use a heated iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive first. You can then slide an opening pick underneath the cable to loosen it. Never pull directly on the delicate connectors.
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Slide an opening pick underneath the foam cushion pieces to separate them from the display, and gently pull them off. You may need some double sided tape to re-attach them to the new display.
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Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the fan cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Use your fingers to peel the black tape connecting the fan to the exhaust duct back slightly.
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Leave the tape in place on the exhaust duct, you only need to expose the join to free the fan.
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Use a T10 Torx screwdriver to remove the three 12.4 mm screws securing the fan.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our Adhesive Strips Guide to reattach the display glass.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
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If it’s rattling, is it possible that it’s just dust? Would one be able to send compressed air up into the air duct to clear it out?
