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This guide will show you how to replace the joystick on your Xbox Series X Wireless Controller (Model 1914) and fix stick drift.
Note: This guide requires soldering. For more information on soldering take a look at this guide for How to Solder and Desolder Connections.
Caution: The soldering iron gets very hot and can cause injury.
Note: It is also important to solder in a well-ventilated room.
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Start by flipping the controller over and opening the battery compartment located on the middle back of the controller.
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Remove the batteries. Place both the cover and the batteries off to the side for now.
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Next, take your opening tool and pry off the grip plates.
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Using your opening tool, insert it into the grove found on the back of the grips.
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Slide the tool throughout the groove, apply more pressure when you feel more resistance.
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Repeat this until the grip cover comes off.
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Do the same for the other grip.
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After removing the grip plates, remove the 5 screws holding the front plate.
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The screws are shown in the picture with two in each grip and one in the battery bay.
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After removing the back screws, the face plate should be easy to remove. Remove it and place it to the side for later.
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Next, locate the joysticks covers and remove them by simply pulling them up from the controller.
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Place the joysticks off to the side.
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Place your spudger as shown and gently peel the sync button plate off using the same method as before.
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Remove the plate and place it off to the side for later.
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After that, locate the RB and LB bumper piece and using your metal spudger, place it between the frame and the hinge.
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Gently pry the piece away and off, doing the same for the other end of the bumper piece.
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Having done this successfully, the bumper piece should come off cleanly and with little effort.
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Set the bumper piece off to the side.
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By now, the back plastic frame should simply fall off the main components.
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Take the back piece off and leave it off to the side for now.
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Take the main piece and flip it over to show the main components.
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Next, we will be removing both triggers.
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Move the triggers forward and expose the back parts of the trigger.
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Using the T6 sized bit, remove the screw from the trigger and place it safely off to the side.
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Do the same for the other trigger and set the pieces off to the side.
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With the trigger frames out of the way, remove the trigger weights from the triggers and place them out of the way.
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Next, we will disconnect the wires for the select and menu buttons.
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Using either your fingers or a set of tweezers, gently pull the connection up and away to disconnect it.
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Do this for both connections.
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While here, remove the two screws above the connections. These connect the motherboard to the frame.
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Next is the grip rumble weights.
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Simply using your hands or forceps, remove the weights by sliding them towards you and lifting them out.
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With both set of rumble weights out of the way, next is the board screws.
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Using the T6 bit screwdriver, unscrew the screws located on next to where the grip rumble weights were.
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Set these screws aside for now.
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Flip the controller over.
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Following the cord attached to the trigger it should be attached to the controller via small tracks.
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Gently pull the wire out from the tracks and lay the wire and trigger parts out of the way.
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Find the D-pad plate surrounding the outer rim of the D-pad.
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Using your spudger, slide it underneath the piece and pull it up from the controller.
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Remove the plate and set it to the side.
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Remove the D-pad from the controller and set aside for now.
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Isolate the motherboard. It will be attached to the joysticks.
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Lay the board flat and observe for any debris or clear obstructions.
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Flip the board over.
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Locate the joystick solder nubs on the back of the bottom of the board.
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Using the soldering iron, heat it up to around 350-375 degrees Fahrenheit and lay the tip on the aforementioned nubs.
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Hold it for around 5-7 seconds or until the solder nub liquefies. Repeat this for the rest of the nubs.
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Having done this, the joystick should slide out the board. Install the replacement joystick by sliding in the joystick prongs into the slots that the old joystick sat in.
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With the joystick in, solder the prongs until they are secured into place on the boards.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Granted I've only ever soldered and desoldered keyboards before, but I'm relatively sure that this is impossible without a hot air reflow station. Keeping all 10 solder joints hot enough to get the joystick out was impossible in my opinion, I couldn't do it. So much for those hall effect joysticks I bought...
Get a solder sucker or one of those copper thingys, they cost under 10 bucks and work just fine for stuff like this
ifixit themself made a video guide on this recently
Use solder wick (the copper thingy Verhulstak mentions) to get the solder sucked out of there. I think the video posted by ifixit has this process explained more thoroughly, I suggest you follow that.
Just watched the video that they put out and I'm considering trying again - I think my problem was that I was using low quality solder wick.
Not gonna lie, from using solder suckers fairly often I do not think that's the move here, solder wick is what you want to do. Cutting it like the video is also important, I didn't do that and I'm assuming that's why it didn't work for me the first time.
David C -
