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Use this guide to replace the Wi-Fi board on an Xbox Series X (2TB Galaxy Black edition).
Before you begin, completely power down and unplug all cables from your console. Remember to follow general electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety procedures while repairing the console.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the sticker hiding the first screw on the back panel, near the base.
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Use a pair of blunt tweezers to peel back the large sticker on the back panel to reveal the second screw.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two 7.4 mm‑long screws securing the back panel.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the back panel and the shell, near the left side of the base.
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Pry up the back panel to release it from the locking clips.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the back panel and the shell, near the right side of the base.
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Pry up the back panel to release it from the locking clips.
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Grip the back panel at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the shell to unclip the long edges.
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Tilt the back panel up and pull it away from the top edge of the shell to release it from the gap.
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Remove the back panel.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the fan to the center chassis:
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One 10.5 mm pancake screw
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Two 8.8 mm screws
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Use your fingers or a pair of blunt tweezers to grip the edges of the fan cable connector, and pull up to disconnect it from the center chassis.
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Slide the fan out of its slot to remove it.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift up on the locking tab holding the base to the shell.
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With the locking tab held open, grip the base and rotate it counterclockwise to unlock it from the shell.
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Remove the base.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two 8.8 mm screws securing the optical drive's vibration isolator to the shell: one on the base and one on the top of the isolator.
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Lift up the optical drive's vibration isolator to remove it.
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Use a pair of blunt tweezers to grip the edges of the optical drive power connector and pull up to disconnect it from the optical drive.
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Use your fingers to pull up and disconnect the data cable from the optical drive.
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Grip the top edge of the optical drive and pull it out of its slot in the shell to remove it.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the metal locking tab on the USB port ribbon cable.
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Use a pair of tweezers to pull up on the black plastic pull tab to disconnect the USB port cable.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to depress the metal tab on the side of the power button cable's board connector.
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With the metal tab depressed, use a pair of tweezers to pull up on the pull tab to disconnect the power button cable from the center chassis.
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Don't pull on the cable without depressing the metal tab, otherwise you risk damaging either the cable or the connector.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 7.4 mm screws securing the center chassis assembly to the shell.
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Gently peel the taped USB port ribbon cable off of the heatsink.
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Grip the chassis and pull it towards the top of the shell, uncoupling the guide pegs from the shell.
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Use two hands to lift out the chassis to remove it from the shell.
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Gently place the chassis heatsink-side down on a clean work surface.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 9.6 mm‑long screws securing the antenna board to the center chassis.
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Grip the top right corner of the antenna board and pull it directly away from the center chassis to disconnect it.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the power cable port to the chassis:
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Two 13.1 mm‑long screws
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One 35 mm‑long screw
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Lift the power connector out of its recess in the chassis.
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Unlatch and open the lid on the power cable's plastic guide.
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Lift the power cable out from underneath the extra section of the cable guide.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the board shield:
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Seven 8.7 mm‑long screws
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Two 35 mm‑long screws
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One 13 mm‑long screw
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Hold the power supply cable out of the way and lift the board shield straight up to remove it.
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Open the lid on the power supply's plastic cable guide.
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Use your fingers to pinch the power supply's two‑pin power connector, so the locking tab opens outward.
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With the locking tab open, lift the connector straight up and out of its socket.
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Repeat the previous step to disconnect the power supply's 10‑pin connector.
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Pull the end of the rubber strap down and away from the chassis to unlatch it.
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Pull the chassis strap off its three alignment posts and unlatch it from the sides of the power supply.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the four screws securing the corners of the power supply:
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Three 35 mm‑long silver screws
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One 8.7 mm‑long black screw
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Lift the power supply straight up and remove it.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 8.7 mm‑long screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna board.
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Grip the antenna board and pull it directly away from the center chassis to disconnect it.
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Remove the antenna board.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Xbox Series X Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Xbox Series X Answers community for help.
