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Use this guide to replace the entire display assembly on your MacBook Pro, in order to fix a cracked or faulty screen. This assembly also includes the integrated ribbon cables that are known to fail as part of the “FlexGate” defect, so replacing it will also resolve the “stage lights” effect and other issues resulting from ribbon cable damage.
For your safety, discharge your MacBook Pro's battery below 25% before you begin. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured.
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Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.
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Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.
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Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove six screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:
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Four 4.7 mm screws
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Two 6.6 mm screws
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Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.
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Lift up on the suction handle just enough to open a small gap under the lower case.
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Slide the corner of an opening pick into the gap you just created underneath the lower case.
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Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro.
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Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, using your opening pick to release the second clip.
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Lift the front edge of the lower case (the side opposite the display hinge) just enough to slide your fingertips underneath and get a good grip on it.
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Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.
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Pull first at one corner, then the other.
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Remove the lower case.
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Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.
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When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips. You should feel and hear them click into place.
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Peel up and remove the large rectangular battery board cover, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.
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If the cover doesn't peel up easily, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive underneath, and try again.
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Peel back the tape covering the battery board data cable connector.
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Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.
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Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket.
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Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.
Me too guys, I messed up. I wish this tutorial emphasized how easy it is to break off. Mine busted off and im stuck. Any advice on 1)getting part 2) soldering yourself? Its hard to see where it even goes on motherboard as I dont see anything visible (liek metail contact)
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.
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Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the cover on the display board flex cable.
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Remove the display board flex cable cover.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.7 mm screws securing the bracket for the display board cable connector.
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Remove the bracket from the display board cable connector.
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Pry straight up with your spudger to disconnect the display board flex cable.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.0 mm screws securing each hinge cover (four screws total).
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the single 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle.
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Disconnect all three antenna cables by prying each one straight up from its socket.
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Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the four 3.3 mm screws securing the display board.
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Make sure the display board flex cable lies on top of the board, not trapped underneath.
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Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove the sixteen 1.5 mm screws securing the antenna assembly.
FYI the right side screws came up without a problem. the right side ones…only half could be loosened without stripping. I had to drip WD40 on the screws and use a hand drill with a brass bit to bore out the pentalobe heads… and get it nice and flat, so I could use a screw extractor kit + sacrificial 1.4mm flathead screwdriver and tweezers to drive and pull out the rest. Anybody know where to buy spare 1mm P2 screws, or the Philips equivalent? Otherwise I will distribute the good screws between the two antenna arrays. Hit me up at enrico.limcaco@gmail.com if you have any leads :)
Update: finally sourced a set of replacement antenna/vent screws from Beets Tech. They’re listed under the 13” MBP — A1708 not A1707 which is the 15”.
I too, was not able to get these off using the P2. Don’t know what to do now UGH.
Does anyone know where I am able to get the screws? Going to need to replace them all..
Before you do this difficult stage, you must check if the antenna is on the outside of the cable as in step 22.
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Use an opening pick to pry up the antenna assembly and separate it from the MacBook Pro.
How do I properly reinsert these during reinstallation?
커피가 굳어있어 오른쪽이 빠지지 않는다. 힘을 주었다. 탁 하면서 부러졌다. 열에 의해 약해져있어. 잘 부러진다. 조심해
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Carefully remove the antenna assembly, while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle out from underneath the heat sink.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 3.9 mm screws securing the display cable cover springs.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove two 4.9 mm screws from each hinge (four screws total).
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If you plan to re-use your screen, open it and apply a piece of tape to the glass directly above each hinge. This helps protect the glass from getting scratched in the following step.
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Fully open the screen and stand your MacBook Pro up on one side.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two remaining 4.9 mm hinge screws (one from each hinge).
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Remove the topmost screw last, using one hand to steady both halves of the MacBook Pro to make sure they don't separate and fall over unexpectedly.
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Push both halves of the MacBook Pro together so that the hinges can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis.
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Push the main body of the MacBook Pro away from you while pulling the screen toward you to separate it.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
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@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
Is this step necessary if my mac can’t turn on? Battery fully dead (
Nursat b - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
Regarding this entire procedure. Understand that this is very difficult, and there is a chance that you may damage your laptop. I am a very technical person and have been working in IT since the 1990s. This took me 4 hours to do. The instructions here are fantastic and spot on. Everything appeared to work as planned. However, now I cannot get the battery to charge, and now the Mac will only run when plugged in. I will update this comment if I figure out how to fix it. At this point, I wish I had just gone to the Apple Genius bar instead.
J D - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0
This is also the case for me but using Big Sur 11.4. Did you ever find the fix? Or do you still need it?
edit: actually nvm, yes it says true but when i scroll down it says AutoBoot %00
Sydnie Andrus -