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Use this guide to replace the scroll wheel in your Logitech G502 Hero wired gaming mouse.
If you're having scrolling problems such as jumping, skipping or slow response, or if your scroll wheel feels damaged and is "scratchy", it may be time to replace the it.
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Before starting your repair, unplug the mouse.
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Heat an iOpener and lay it on the mouse feet for one minute to heat the adhesive.
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Carefully slide the point of a spudger under the large foot near the front of the mouse, making sure it goes under both the foot and its adhesive pad.
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Gently slide the spudger farther under the foot and lift until you can grip the pad with your fingers.
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Peel up and remove the foot.
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If the rubber layer separates from its adhesive pad, use the same process to remove the pad.
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Repeat the last three steps to remove the remaining feet.
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Use a spudger to carefully scrape up and remove any remaining adhesive bits.
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Use isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth to thoroughly clean all adhesive residue from the foot recesses. Allow the surface to completely dry.
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Remove the feet from their backing and firmly press them into place.
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Lift the weight door by its tab and remove it.
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If you have weights in the compartment, remove them.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 5.5 mm‑long screws securing the bottom shell.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the top and bottom shells, near the back of the mouse.
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Twist the spudger to unclip the shells.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the textured edge of the top and bottom shells, near the back of the mouse.
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Slide the spudger towards the front of the mouse and intermittently twist, stopping near the screw hole.
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Leave the spudger inserted for the next step.
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Push the spudger into the mouse and twist to unclip the shells.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the top and bottom shells, near the back of the mouse.
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Slide the spudger towards the thumb rest and push in to unclip the shells.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the top and bottom shells, near the G8 and DPI shift (⊕) buttons at the front of the mouse.
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Pry up with the spudger and push the shells apart to unclip them.
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Lift the top shell straight up and remove it, making sure the main mouse cable stays attached to the bottom shell.
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Gently lift the side buttons board straight up and out of its slot.
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Hold the button board out of the way so you can access its connector on the motherboard.
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Use the point of a spudger to push up on alternating sides of the connector's plastic latch until it's in the unlocked position.
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Gently pull the board straight up so the cable comes out of its socket.
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Insert the cable into its socket so the blue tab is on the same side as the connector's latch.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to push the latch straight down into its locked position.
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Use the point of a spudger to push out and remove the locking pin from the plastic scroll wheel support in the center of the motherboard.
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Gently pull the scroll wheel towards the front of the mouse and lift to remove it.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
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crwdns2947412:02crwdne2947412:0
Where did you get the scroll wheel replacement part?
I upgraded my scroll wheel with one from a Logitech Performance MX. The wheel itself was only $8 on eBay.
Well worth the upgrade, since the stock one feels cheap. Dunno if the Master mice wheels are compatible, hopefully someone can chime in.