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Use this guide to replace the motherboard in your Kobo Clara BW (P365 model) eReader.
Important: There are two Clara BW versions: N365 and P365. Check your eReader's model number (printed near the bottom of the rear case) before starting this guide. This guide is for the P365 model. Click here for the N365 model guide instead.
The charging port is soldered to the motherboard, so you'll need to replace the entire motherboard if you want to replace the port.
Following this guide will remove your eReader's IP (Ingress Protection) rating, making it susceptible to water damage.
After this repair, follow this guide to calibrate your eReader to your replacement motherboard. If you don't, you might experience "ghosting" or visual artifacts of the E ink.
Kobo supports their eReaders with a warranty. If your device is still under warranty, Kobo may be able to help. Before starting a repair, review your warranty information or check support documentation.
Note: Some photos used in this guide are of different Kobo Clara models. Any slight visual discrepancies won't affect the guide procedure.
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Unplug all cables and fully shut down your eReader.
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Lay your eReader down so the back cover is facing up.
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Insert the flat edge of an opening pick between the frame and the bottom left corner of the back cover.
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Push the pick downwards at a slight angle until it slides under the back cover.
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Slide the pick toward the bottom right corner to release the clips along the bottom edge.
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Remove the pick and reinsert it under the bottom left corner.
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Angle the pick flat under the back cover and rotate it around the bottom left corner to release its clips.
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Slide the pick toward the top left corner to release the clips along the left edge.
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Grip the left edge of the back cover and lift it away from the eReader to release the remaining clips.
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Remove the back cover.
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The coating is brittle and can flake into many small pieces. Heating the coating helps, but working with it is still a time-consuming process.
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The ZIF connector locking tabs are coated in a gel that can jam the hinge and keep the locking tab from completely unlocking. Make sure the tabs are completely upright before disconnecting any cables.
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Depending on your repair, you might have to remove the coating completely from the connectors and their cables.
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If at any point the coating becomes too difficult to work with, heat it for 90 seconds with an iOpener or a hair dryer.
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Use a clean fingernail or the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.
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Use the point of a spudger to lift up the locking tab on the power button cable ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of blunt nose tweezers to grip the cable close to the head and pull it away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily to separate the coating.
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Inspect the head of the cable and the ZIF connector for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
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Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift up the locking tab on the digitizer cable ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of blunt nose tweezers to grip the cable close to the head and pull it away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily to separate the coating.
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Inspect the head of the cable and the ZIF connector for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
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Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift up the locking tab on the display cable ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of blunt nose tweezers to grip the cable close to the head and pull it away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily to separate the coating.
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Inspect the head of the cable and the ZIF connector for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
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Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.
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Pull the display cable away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily at a level angle to separate the coating at the corners.
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Once the cable comes completely out of its socket, lift it up and peel off any remaining coating holding it to the motherboard.
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Lift the display cable out of the way of the backlight cable underneath.
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Use the point of a spudger to lift up the locking tab on the backlight cable ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of blunt nose tweezers to grip the cable close to the head and pull it away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily to separate the coating.
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Inspect the head of the cable and the ZIF connector for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
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Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 2.4 mm‑long screws securing the motherboard.
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Insert the tip of an opening pick under the battery flex cable.
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Slide the pick along the cable to separate it from the waterproof coating.
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Slide an opening pick under the top left corner of the motherboard and lift it up enough to grip it with your fingers.
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Lift the top edge of the motherboard and pull it towards the top of the eReader to remove it.
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Slide the charging port into its slot at a slight downward angle before pressing the motherboard flat to the frame.
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Follow this guide to update the VCOM number on your eReader to match your screen.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Remember: after repairs, your eReader should no longer be considered IPX8 waterproof.
Compare your new replacement motherboard to the original one—you may need to transfer extra components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
Make sure each of your device's main functions still work, e.g., LED backlight, touch, Wi-Fi, etc.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers Community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Remember: after repairs, your eReader should no longer be considered IPX8 waterproof.
Compare your new replacement motherboard to the original one—you may need to transfer extra components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
Make sure each of your device's main functions still work, e.g., LED backlight, touch, Wi-Fi, etc.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers Community for help.
