crwdns2936637:0crwdne2936637:0 crwdns2853008:0crwdne2853008:0 crwdns2918746:0crwdne2918746:0

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    • Drain your eReader's battery as much as possible before starting your repair. Ideally, it should be fully discharged.

    • Optionally, to drain the battery faster, navigate to More → Settings → Energy saving and privacy and set Automatically go to sleep after and Automatically power off after to Never.

    • When working on or near the battery, don't use sharp metal tools to avoid puncturing and shorting the battery.

    • Unplug all cables and fully shut down your eReader.

    • Your screen should be black and say Powered off.

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    • Lay your eReader down so the back cover is facing up.

    • Insert the flat edge of an opening pick between the frame and the bottom left corner of the back cover.

    • Push the pick downwards at a slight angle until it slides under the back cover.

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    • Slide the pick toward the bottom right corner to release the clips along the bottom edge.

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    • Remove the pick and reinsert it under the bottom left corner.

    • Angle the pick flat under the back cover and rotate it around the bottom left corner to release its clips.

    • If you're having trouble, try twisting the pick to lift the corner clips out of their slots.

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    • Slide the pick toward the top left corner to release the clips along the left edge.

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    • At this point, you should be able to grip the back cover and release its remaining clips. If not, slide a pick under the perimeter of the back cover until you can grip an edge.

    • Grip the left edge of the back cover and lift it away from the eReader to release the remaining clips.

    • Remove the back cover.

    • During reassembly, align the back cover over the eReader and press along the perimeter until all its clips snap back into place.

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    • The entire surface of the eReader's internals is covered in a thin, plastic-like waterproof coating. Keep the following in mind as you continue disassembly:

    • While this won't hurt your device, removing the coating compromises the device to potential water damage.

    • The coating is brittle and can flake into many small pieces. Heating the coating helps, but working with it is still a time-consuming process.

    • The ZIF connector locking tabs are coated in a gel that can jam the hinge and keep the locking tab from completely unlocking. Make sure the tabs are completely upright before disconnecting any cables.

    • Depending on your repair, you might have to remove the coating from ZIF connectors and their cables.

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  9. crwdns2935201:0crwdne2935201:0 crwdns2935203:0crwdne2935203:0

    : crwdns2935265:09crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 : crwdns2935265:09crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 : crwdns2935265:09crwdnd2935265:03crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0
    crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0
    Tweezers
    $4.99
    crwdns2945778:0crwdne2945778:0

    • Use the tip of a spudger to scrape up the coating along the white battery connector head—enough so you can grab clumps of it with pointed tweezers.

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    • Use pointed tweezers to peel off all of the coating around the battery connector head and its socket.

    • If the coating becomes too brittle and hard to peel off, reheat the connector and try again.

    • This is a meticulous process! Failure to remove enough of the coating could damage the plastic head during disconnection, so take your time!

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    • Insert the point of a spudger under the edge of the battery connector head opposite of the cable.

    • There's a surface-mounted component close to the connector. Be careful not to touch it with your spudger!

    • Lift up the connector with the spudger to separate the rest of the coating and disconnect the battery.

    • During reassembly:

    • Inspect the connector head and its socket for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.

    • Peel off the coating, heating the area when the coating becomes too brittle.

    • It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating so the connector head sits properly in its socket.

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    : crwdns2935265:012crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:01crwdne2935265:0

    • When working on or near the battery, don't use sharp metal tools to avoid puncturing and shorting the battery! A punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and catch fire.

    • If your battery comes with stretch release adhesive, follow the next two steps to remove them.

    • Otherwise, skip ahead three steps to remove the normal adhesive.

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    crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0
    Tweezers
    $4.99
    crwdns2945778:0crwdne2945778:0

    • The next two steps show how to remove a battery that's secured by stretch release adhesive.

    • Use tweezers to pull on the battery adhesive strip's pull tab until you can grip it with your fingers.

    • While holding the battery in place, pull the strip out slowly and steadily at a low angle. Give it plenty of time to stretch and un-stick from under the battery.

    • You can also wrap the adhesive strip around a spudger and "roll" it for a more consistent pull.

    • If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers and continue pulling—but don’t pry under the battery.

    • If you can't retrieve a strip, don't worry! Remove as much adhesive as possible and skip down two steps for an alternate method.

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    • The next four steps show how to remove a battery that's secured by regular adhesive.

    • Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol under the right edge of the battery.

    • Tilt the eReader up to let the isopropyl alcohol flow under the battery and wait one minute for it to soften the adhesive.

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    • Slide a plastic card a half an inch (~13 mm) under the top right corner of the battery.

    • Rotate the plastic card so its short edge sits under the right edge of the battery.

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    • Slide the plastic card under the battery to separate the adhesive and the thin layer of coating.

    • Don't bend or crease the battery! Avoid prying or lifting up with the plastic card.

    • If you're having trouble, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol and try again.

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    • Lift the battery off the frame and remove it.

    • If you're transferring the battery to a new screen, inspect the battery for any dents or deformations.

    • Never reuse a damaged battery! If your battery shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one.

    • During reassembly, follow this guide to install a new battery or to transfer an old battery to a new screen.

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    • There are surface-mounted components next to the power button ZIF connector. Follow the instructions carefully to avoid dislodging them.

    • Insert the tip of a spudger under the right side of the power button ZIF connector's black locking tab.

    • Lift up the locking tab with the spudger to unlock it.

    • The locking tab should be nearly vertical when unlocked. If not, gently push the tab forward to compress the gel and completely unlock the tab.

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    • Heat an iOpener and lay it on the power button connector for 90 seconds to soften the coating.

    • Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun.

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    crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0
    Tweezers
    $4.99
    crwdns2945778:0crwdne2945778:0

    • Use blunt nose tweezers to grip the cable close to the head and pull it away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily to separate the coating.

    • If the coating feels stubborn, reheat the connector and try again.

    • Gripping the tweezers closer to the tip can help you get a tighter hold on the cable.

    • Keep pulling on the cable until the cable comes completely out of its socket.

    • During reassembly:

    • Inspect the head of the cable and the ZIF connector for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.

    • Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.

    • It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating to have the cable sit properly in its connector.

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    • Heat an iOpener and lay it on the power button board for 90 seconds to soften the coating.

    • Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun.

    crwdns2913378:0crwdne2913378:0

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    • Peel off the coating along one of the long edges of the power button board.

    • The side doesn't matter! Choose whichever side has the easiest-to-remove coating.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to scrape the coating along the base of the power button board—enough so you can grab clumps of it with tweezers.

    • Don't use tweezers to scrape the coating, as you could accidentally puncture the board.

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    • Use tweezers to peel off the coating on the power button board.

    • If the coating becomes too brittle and hard to peel off, reheat the board and try again.

    • It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating so the board can move freely during the next four steps.

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    • The adhesive securing the power button board is strong and requires time and patience to separate properly. Follow the next four steps closely to avoid damaging the power button board.

    • Heat an iOpener and lay it on the power button board for 90 seconds to soften the adhesive.

    • Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun.

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    • Insert an arm of pointed tweezers under the edge of the power button board that you separated the coating from.

    • If you're having trouble, reheat the board and try again.

    • Slide the arm along the edge of the board to separate enough adhesive to fit an opening pick under the board.

    • Keep the arm as flat to the frame as possible to avoid scratching the metal.

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    • Remove the tweezers and immediately replace it with the tip of an opening pick to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

    • Slide the pick along the edge of the power button board to separate the adhesive.

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    • Rotate the opening pick under the bottom of the power button board and under its cable.

    • Slide the opening pick along the other edge of the board to separate the remaining adhesive.

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    • Pull the power button board off the frame and remove it.

    • During reassembly, follow this guide to transfer your power button board to a new screen or to install a new one.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift up the locking tab on the digitizer cable ZIF connector.

    • The locking tab should be nearly vertical when unlocked. If not, gently push the tab forward to compress the gel and completely unlock the tab.

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    • Apply a heated iOpener to the digitizer cable ZIF connector for 90 seconds to soften the coating.

    • Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun.

    crwdns2913378:0crwdne2913378:0

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    • Grip the digitizer cable close to the head and pull it away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily to separate the coating.

    • If the coating feels stubborn, reheat the connector and try again.

    • Keep pulling on the cable until it comes completely out of its socket.

    • During reassembly:

    • Inspect the head of the cable and the ZIF connector for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.

    • Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.

    • It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating to have the cable sit properly in its connector.

    crwdns2913378:0crwdne2913378:0

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    • There are surface-mounted components next to the display ZIF connector. Follow the instructions carefully to avoid dislodging them.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger under the right side of the ZIF connector's black locking tab.

    • Lift up the locking tab with the spudger to unlock it.

    • The locking tab should be nearly vertical when unlocked. If not, gently push the tab forward to compress the gel and completely unlock the tab.

    crwdns2913378:0crwdne2913378:0

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    • Apply a heated iOpener and lay it on the display connector for 90 seconds to soften the coating.

    • Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun.

    crwdns2913378:0crwdne2913378:0

  37. crwdns2935201:0crwdne2935201:0 crwdns2935203:0crwdne2935203:0

    : crwdns2935265:036crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:02crwdne2935265:0 : crwdns2935265:036crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:02crwdne2935265:0
    crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0
    Tweezers
    $4.99
    crwdns2945778:0crwdne2945778:0

    • Use blunt nose tweezers to grip the corner of the display cable closest to the charging port.

    • Pull the cable away from the ZIF connector slowly and steadily at a level angle to separate the coating at the corner.

    • If you're having trouble, try rocking the cable side-to-side while pulling.

    • Gripping the tweezers closer to the tip can help with getting a tighter hold on the cable.

    crwdns2913378:0crwdne2913378:0

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    • Repeat the previous step for the other corner until the the cable comes completely out of its socket.

    crwdns2913378:0crwdne2913378:0

  39. crwdns2935201:0crwdne2935201:0 crwdns2935203:0crwdne2935203:0

    : crwdns2935265:038crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 : crwdns2935265:038crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 : crwdns2935265:038crwdnd2935265:03crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0

    • Lift up the display cable and peel off any remaining coating holding it to the motherboard.

    • During reassembly:

    • Inspect the ends of the cable and the ZIF connectors for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.

    • Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.

    • It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating to have the cable sit properly in the connector.

    crwdns2913378:0crwdne2913378:0

  40. crwdns2935201:0crwdne2935201:0 crwdns2935203:0crwdne2935203:0

    : crwdns2935265:039crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 : crwdns2935265:039crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 : crwdns2935265:039crwdnd2935265:03crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0

    • Lift the display cable out of the way of the backlight cable underneath.

    • Use the point of a spudger to lift up the blue locking tab on the backlight cable ZIF connector.

    • The locking tab should be nearly vertical when unlocked. If not, gently push the tab forward to compress the gel and completely unlock the tab.

    crwdns2913378:0crwdne2913378:0

  41. crwdns2935201:0crwdne2935201:0 crwdns2935203:0crwdne2935203:0

    : crwdns2935265:040crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:01crwdne2935265:0

    • Apply a heated iOpener and lay it on the backlight connector for 90 seconds to soften the coating.

    • Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun.

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  42. crwdns2935201:0crwdne2935201:0 crwdns2935203:0crwdne2935203:0

    : crwdns2935265:041crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:02crwdne2935265:0 : crwdns2935265:041crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:02crwdne2935265:0

    • Use blunt nose tweezers to grip the cable close to the head and pull it away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily to separate the coating.

    • If the coating feels stubborn, reheat the connector and try again.

    • Keep pulling on the cable until it comes completely out of its socket.

    • During reassembly:

    • Inspect the head of the cable and the ZIF connector for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.

    • Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.

    • It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating to have the cable sit properly in its connector.

    crwdns2913378:0crwdne2913378:0

  43. crwdns2935201:0crwdne2935201:0 crwdns2935203:0crwdne2935203:0

    : crwdns2935265:042crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:02crwdne2935265:0 : crwdns2935265:042crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:02crwdne2935265:0

    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 2.4 mm‑long screws securing the motherboard.

    crwdns2913378:0crwdne2913378:0

  44. crwdns2935201:0crwdne2935201:0 crwdns2935203:0crwdne2935203:0

    : crwdns2935265:043crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:02crwdne2935265:0 : crwdns2935265:043crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:02crwdne2935265:0

    • Slide an opening pick under the top left corner of the motherboard and lift it up enough to grip the motherboard with your fingers.

    crwdns2913378:0crwdne2913378:0

  45. crwdns2935201:0crwdne2935201:0 crwdns2935203:0crwdne2935203:0

    : crwdns2935265:044crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 : crwdns2935265:044crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 : crwdns2935265:044crwdnd2935265:03crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0

    • Angle the motherboard up and pull it toward the top edge of the eReader to remove it.

    • During reassembly, slide the charging port into its slot at an angle before pressing the motherboard flat to the frame.

    crwdns2913378:0crwdne2913378:0

  46. crwdns2935201:0crwdne2935201:0 crwdns2935203:0crwdne2935203:0

    : crwdns2935265:045crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:02crwdne2935265:0 : crwdns2935265:045crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:02crwdne2935265:0

    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 3 mm‑long screws securing corners of the front cover.

    crwdns2913378:0crwdne2913378:0

  47. crwdns2935201:0crwdne2935201:0 crwdns2935203:0crwdne2935203:0

    : crwdns2935265:046crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 : crwdns2935265:046crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 : crwdns2935265:046crwdnd2935265:03crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0

    • The screen is secured by adhesive along the perimeter of the front cover and a layer of coating at the bottom edge.

    • Bend the top edge of the front cover around the screen to separate the adhesive.

    crwdns2913378:0crwdne2913378:0

  48. crwdns2935201:0crwdne2935201:0 crwdns2935203:0crwdne2935203:0

    : crwdns2935265:047crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 : crwdns2935265:047crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 : crwdns2935265:047crwdnd2935265:03crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0

    • Lift the top edge of the screen to separate any remaining adhesive around the perimeter of the front cover.

    • Slide the screen toward the top of the eReader to expose the coating at the bottom edge.

    crwdns2913378:0crwdne2913378:0

  49. crwdns2935201:0crwdne2935201:0 crwdns2935203:0crwdne2935203:0

    : crwdns2935265:048crwdnd2935265:01crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 : crwdns2935265:048crwdnd2935265:02crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0 : crwdns2935265:048crwdnd2935265:03crwdnd2935265:03crwdne2935265:0

    • Lift and rotate the screen off the bottom edge of the front cover to separate the coating.

    • Remove the screen.

    • You've now disassembled your eReader enough to transfer the internals to your new screen.

    • During reassembly:

    • Align the front cover over the screen and press down around the perimeter until the clips snap back into place.

    • Follow this guide to update the VCOM number on your eReader to match the replacement screen.

    crwdns2913378:0crwdne2913378:0
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Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

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165.955 crwdns2915208:0crwdne2915208:0

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iFixit crwdns2935289:0iFixitcrwdne2935289:0

Staff

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crwdns2947412:02crwdne2947412:0

Thanks for this. I ordered the screen and tool kit and had it fixed in around 2 hours maybe less. I had a magnifying glass which helped alot to identify where the clear coating was. The guide was excellent and its working no dramas so far. Cheers

Gsmith - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0

The adhesive of the battery was very annoying, it took a lot of alcohol and time to remove the battery. All the other steps are very easy. If you have a Tolino Shine 5, you have to revert to the Kobo firmware to adjust the vcom value.

Klaus - crwdns2934203:0crwdne2934203:0

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