The display of my printer doesn’t light up at all. It used to show things like WiFi connection, and the paper indicator light would turn on, but we did put paper in the paper tray. We’ve plugged and unplugged the power cord many times, but it’s still the same.
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This is one of those throwaway printers, so many repairs are a "BER" affair :-(. That said, there are a few things to check:
First thing I do is probe the power supply -- these are internal unlike the old ones, but they usually print the pinout on it. None of these throwaway models seem to have a sense pin to jump to ground and just pass the voltage through permanently, but check in case. If you can't find the pinout, you may need to see if you can find a color guide chart to deduce it best you can.
If the PSU is good, then it's the FP connector is loose, or the buttons are worn out - remember, this is the cheap control panel which doesn't have as many durability cycles as the old machines like the F4480, C4780 and other cheap and nasty printers HP sold years ago before gutting them with a 1 character LCD, HP+ DRM and a convoluted WiFi setup. Don't bother replacing the board, replace the printer - I promise you, you WILL NOT FIND A NEW BOARD. Maybe if you get lucky the capacitors are bad and can be replaced for ~.25-.50 and you can do that, but that hasn't been a problem for many years outside of cheap and nasty ones like CapXon parts.
As far as what I am recommending today to replace these DRM HPs when they break and are BER? Canon Pixma for inkjets or Canon mono lasers, and the Brother mono lasers with the 15k page drum, not the older 12k page drum if you do not need color and do not mind periodic drum replacements. Unless you need color laser printing, they're still $400+ - granted, there're more and more models with very big toners like the Lexmark CS/CX4 series, but they're not as cheap because they are run in a business setting with yields that match, so they can't make as much on the toner right off the bat.
The economics get better with the proper commercial grade models like the ImageRUNNER and high spec ImageCLASS or Lexmark CS5/CX5 and MS5/6 (and MX models), but you pay for it as those can be upwards of $800+ unless you can play the eBay lottery, find a broken one someone wants gone for basically free relative to the parts value, WITH TONER, and a 100% drum with few cycles and repair it without buying a $200+ part.
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*Beyond Economic Repair (BER)
Beyond Economic Repair (BER): Beyond economic repair (BER) is a term used to describe something that is so damaged that it would cost more to repair than it would to replace it.
@dadibrokeit Well one can probably find parts and fix it but these tricolor 6X Deskjets are always so cheap the parts cost is more then unit replacement. I can buy a complete new one for $60, decline the HP+ lock in (for the HPs, the Canon models have a override out mode and none of this DRM) and refill the inbox carts perpetually until they develop a defect, and then buy remans which are virgins and refill the reman inks. Rinse and repeat as needed. The cost of ink is higher for any of these cheapos then the units and you are better off risking a voided warranty with refills and reman ink, and using the savings to replace it if the refills break it.
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