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The Canon EOS Rebel T7 is a 24.0MP DSLR camera released in 2018. Also known as the EOS 2000D, the EOS 1500D and the EOS Kiss X90.

Battery cover switch is broken

I bought a rebel T7, and found that the switch for the battery compartment door is gone. Can't even press it with a screw driver.

I'm looking all over for schematics, to see if I can open it up and replace the switch.

Does anyone have them, or know where I can track them down?

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Oof this is not a fun repair when the PCB took the damage :-(. You can jump the pads on these cameras, but you need to remove the board and hope the actual pad isn't damaged. If the pad is torn, unless you can find the exact point it was wired from and run a jumper wire from the point of failure to the other pad, the board will need to be replaced and a sensor cal performed.

That said, take that camera apart and show us the extent of the damage. If it's intact but the switch has broken, you can jumper it with solder and get around it for good. The downside to this method is that it permanently removes a safety feature that Canon's DSLR cameras are known for, where they cut power when the cover is opened. It fixes the issue permanently, but you must be extremely careful not to pull the card before you see the image is written (indicated by the blinking LED on the back). I don't know where to source the switch, but I would say check Mouser or DigiKey, or pick up a old camera like the Xs/Xsi with a shutter failure - it's probably the same part. You would of course transfer the switch to the T7, not the entire board.

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So I took it apart, and found the switch bent 90 degrees upwards. I didn't get a picture till after I fixed it, but I soldered it, checked continuity with a multimeter, and reassembled the camera. Unfortunately, that didn't fix the problem, so I ordered a new pcb to put it.

Im worried that the pins/ribbon cables got damaged, I don't think I physically scratched them, or kinked them, they just intimidate me (idk how delicate they are).

Aaand idk how to add photos to a comment

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@randysipkes You can forego the PCB though - jump the pads. Fixes it nearly every time and avoids the sensor calibration issue where you need to use TornadoEOS to dump and clone to cal data to the replacement board.

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I looked closer at the photo of the switch, and it seems that there is a resistor that is busted, any idea how to go about replacing that? I'll try to jump the pads and see if that fixes things

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