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Weird fridge side cooling behavior in older side-by-side fridge

I have a quite old (1999) KSRS25FGBL01 Whirlpool side by side fridge. Despite its age, i really dont want to replace it because the space for the fridge is a non-standard size.

Currently it is cooling (ish) like this - the freezer side is fine

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I am trying to understand the pattern of cooling. It seems to start cooling OK, then maintain with 45ish minute saw-tooth for a while, and then slowly creep up in temperature while doing the saw-tooth.

I have replaced the fridge-thermo, the control-board, and the diffuser.

Given that it can cool, i'm somewhat leaning away from a compressor issue, however AI suggests that the 45 minute cycle is too short, and therefore maybe the compressor is being turned off before reaching temperature.

I guess I'm gonna look at the condenser thaw cycle, or maybe the compressor overload protector/run capacitor

Does anyone have any ideas..

edit 5/29: added some more info:

Here is a new image which shows several days worth... interestingly, the re-start of cooling at around 8pm on thursday occurred immediately after a brief power outage!!

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Hi @slanderous

The temperature peaks of approx 50°F occurring would possibly be the result of the auto defrost cycle being done. Given that it is not occurring at regular intervals it must be that it uses the adaptive runtime method and not the cumulative method but I'm not sure about that as I can't find out which it uses.

In your model refrigerator the maximum defrost cycle temp should not exceed 45°F. This is when the bi-metal thermostat p/n WPW10225581 in the freezer compartment near the evaporator unit, should cut off the power to the defrost heater so as to not damage the evaporator unit. Might be just a discrepancy between the temp that you measure and what the thermostat thinks is its cut off temperature. The specifications for it are that it operates at 45°F and resets at 18°F (to be ready for the next defrost cycle). Here's a video that shows how to test it, if you wish to.

If you haven't already done so, check the following if only to eliminate them as possible causes of the problem.

  • Carefully vacuum any dust from the condenser coil which is mounted underneath the compartments, near the compressor unit. Make sure that the power to the refrigerator is turned off when this is done.

A clogged condenser coil reduces the cooling efficiency of the sealed system, by not allowing the heat absorbed by the refrigerant gas as it passes through the evaporator unit to escape more quickly when it passes through the condenser coil. This causes the compressor to run longer and more often than it should trying to maintain the temperatures within the specified limits.

  • When the temperature inside the refrigerator compartment starts to go higher than 40°F check if you can hear the evaporator fan running inside the freezer compartment.

This fan is used to supply air from the icy cold freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down. The fan will operate as long as the compressor motor is operating and if both doors are shut. The fan will stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the door is closed. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is located under the compartments near the condenser coil and the compressor unit. It can run whether the doors are open or not

  • Check that the refrigerator compartment door seals are providing a good tight seal and not that they're allowing cold air to escape from the compartment.

Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jam and with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling it out. It will come out with a bit of an effort but not easily and it definitely shouldn't fall out by itself. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides.

You could also try placing a turned on flashlight inside the refrigerator compartment and then check if you can detect any light coming out through the door when it is closed. Perhaps best done at night with no external lights on.

  • Check that the refrigerator compartment light is turning off when the door is closed. With the door open, manually operate the door switch and check if it turns off.

The heat produced by the light can affect the temperature inside the compartment.

If you find the problem and it is a faulty part that needs replacing, here's the parts list that is useful. Locate the wanted part in the list and note the part number that is shown with it. Search online for the part number only to find suppliers that suit you best. If you search online for (insert wanted part number) replacement, sometimes if you're lucky, you'll find videos that show how to remove/replace the part

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Thanks for you help!

1. yup - i cleaned the coils early on

2. i will order a new bi-metal thermostat pin as they are cheap - the next steps all pretty much require me to take the back inside panel off the freezezr compartment anyway

A few comments

a. the cycle seems to be about 36 hours, not 12, but i assume your comment about defrost cycle still holds

b. I'm still trying to understand what actually triggers this cycle, and with the new image i just added above, why would a power outage kick it into a new cycle? (this behavior i had noticed before actually, and was one of the reasons i thought it might be the control board)

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@slanderous

There is an adaptive defrost control board in your model refrigerator but to me 36 hours between each defrost cycle seems a bit long and also they're usually not that regular.

The time period between each defrost cycle depends on factors such as the total amount of time the refrigerator doors were open since the last defrost cycle occurred. The amount of time that the compressor had to run since the last defrost cycle occurred and also the amount of time the defrost heater was on in the last defrost cycle.

For example if no one was using the fridge at all e.g. away for a week but left it running, then yes the time between each defrost cycle may be 24h+ i.e. no cold air lost from the fridge (unless door seals leaked), and also less ice build up on evap unit and less compressor run time but if it was used everyday as per normal I'd be surprised if it wasn't more in the 12-20h range or even more often.

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