The temperature peaks of approx 50°F occurring every 12 hours would be the result of the auto defrost cycle being done. In your model refrigerator the maximum defrost cycle temp should not exceed 45°F. This is when the [link|https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=WPW10225581|bi-metal thermostat p/n WPW10225581] in the freezer compartment near the evaporator unit, should cut off the power to the defrost heater so as to not damage the evaporator unit. Might be just a discrepancy between the temp that you measure and what the thermostat thinks is its cut off temperature. The specifications for it are that it operates at 45°F and resets at 18°F (to be ready for the next defrost cycle). Here's a [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=7kcvlnW8QYo|video] that shows how to test it, if you wish to.
+
The temperature peaks of approx 50°F occurring would possibly be the result of the auto defrost cycle being done. Given that it is not occurring at regular intervals it must be that it uses the adaptive runtime method and not the cumulative method but I'm not sure about that as I can't find out which it uses.
+
+
In your model refrigerator the maximum defrost cycle temp should not exceed 45°F. This is when the [link|https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=WPW10225581|bi-metal thermostat p/n WPW10225581] in the freezer compartment near the evaporator unit, should cut off the power to the defrost heater so as to not damage the evaporator unit. Might be just a discrepancy between the temp that you measure and what the thermostat thinks is its cut off temperature. The specifications for it are that it operates at 45°F and resets at 18°F (to be ready for the next defrost cycle). Here's a [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=7kcvlnW8QYo|video] that shows how to test it, if you wish to.
If you haven't already done so, check the following if only to eliminate them as possible causes of the problem.
* Carefully vacuum any dust from the condenser coil which is mounted underneath the compartments, near the compressor unit. Make sure that the power to the refrigerator is turned off when this is done.
A clogged condenser coil reduces the cooling efficiency of the sealed system, by not allowing the heat absorbed by the refrigerant gas as it passes through the evaporator unit to escape more quickly when it passes through the condenser coil. This causes the compressor to run longer and more often than it should trying to maintain the temperatures within the specified limits.
* When the temperature inside the refrigerator compartment starts to go higher than 40°F check if you can hear the evaporator fan running ''inside the freezer compartment''.
This fan is used to supply air from the icy cold freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down. ''The fan will operate as long as the compressor motor is operating and if both doors are shut.'' The fan will stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the door is closed. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is located under the compartments near the condenser coil and the compressor unit. It can run whether the doors are open or not
* Check that the refrigerator compartment door seals are providing a good tight seal and not that they're allowing cold air to escape from the compartment.
Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jam and with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling it out. It will come out with a bit of an effort but not easily and it definitely shouldn't fall out by itself. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides.
You could also try placing a turned on flashlight inside the refrigerator compartment and then check if you can detect any light coming out through the door when it is closed. Perhaps best done at night with no external lights on.
* Check that the refrigerator compartment light is turning off when the door is closed. With the door open, manually operate the door switch and check if it turns off.
The heat produced by the light can affect the temperature inside the compartment.
If you find the problem and it is a faulty part that needs replacing, here's the [link|https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/67jq8hlmb6-000593/kitchenaid-ksrs25fgbl01-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts list] that is useful. Locate the wanted part in the list and note the part number that is shown with it. Search online for the ''part number only'' to find suppliers that suit you best. If you search online for ''(insert wanted part number) replacement,'' sometimes if you're lucky, you'll find videos that show how to remove/replace the part
The temperature peaks of approx 50°F occurring every 12 hours would be the result of the auto defrost cycle being done. In your model refrigerator the maximum defrost cycle temp should not exceed 45°F. This is when the [link|https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=WPW10225581|bi-metal thermostat p/n WPW10225581] in the freezer compartment near the evaporator unit, should cut off the power to the defrost heater so as to not damage the evaporator unit. Might be just a discrepancy between the temp that you measure and what the thermostat thinks is its cut off temperature. The specifications for it are that it operates at 45°F and resets at 18°F (to be ready for the next defrost cycle). Here's a [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=7kcvlnW8QYo|video] that shows how to test it, if you wish to.
If you haven't already done so, check the following if only to eliminate them as possible causes of the problem.
-
* Vacuum any dust from the condenser coil which is mounted underneath the compartments, near the compressor unit. Make sure that the power to the refrigerator is turned off when this is done.
+
* Carefully vacuum any dust from the condenser coil which is mounted underneath the compartments, near the compressor unit. Make sure that the power to the refrigerator is turned off when this is done.
A clogged condenser coil reduces the cooling efficiency of the sealed system, by not allowing the heat absorbed by the refrigerant gas as it passes through the evaporator unit to escape more quickly when it passes through the condenser coil. This causes the compressor to run longer and more often than it should trying to maintain the temperatures within the specified limits.
* When the temperature inside the refrigerator compartment starts to go higher than 40°F check if you can hear the evaporator fan running ''inside the freezer compartment''.
This fan is used to supply air from the icy cold freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down. ''The fan will operate as long as the compressor motor is operating and if both doors are shut.'' The fan will stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the door is closed. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is located under the compartments near the condenser coil and the compressor unit. It can run whether the doors are open or not
* Check that the refrigerator compartment door seals are providing a good tight seal and not that they're allowing cold air to escape from the compartment.
Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jam and with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling it out. It will come out with a bit of an effort but not easily and it definitely shouldn't fall out by itself. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides.
You could also try placing a turned on flashlight inside the refrigerator compartment and then check if you can detect any light coming out through the door when it is closed. Perhaps best done at night with no external lights on.
* Check that the refrigerator compartment light is turning off when the door is closed. With the door open, manually operate the door switch and check if it turns off.
The heat produced by the light can affect the temperature inside the compartment.
If you find the problem and it is a faulty part that needs replacing, here's the [link|https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/67jq8hlmb6-000593/kitchenaid-ksrs25fgbl01-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts list] that is useful. Locate the wanted part in the list and note the part number that is shown with it. Search online for the ''part number only'' to find suppliers that suit you best. If you search online for ''(insert wanted part number) replacement,'' sometimes if you're lucky, you'll find videos that show how to remove/replace the part
The temperature peaks of approx 50°F occurring every 12 hours would be the result of the auto defrost cycle being done. In your model refrigerator the maximum defrost cycle temp should not exceed 45°F. This is when the [link|https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=WPW10225581|bi-metal thermostat p/n WPW10225581] in the freezer compartment near the evaporator unit, should cut off the power to the defrost heater so as to not damage the evaporator unit. Might be just a discrepancy between the temp that you measure and what the thermostat thinks is its cut off temperature. The specifications for it are that it operates at 45°F and resets at 18°F (to be ready for the next defrost cycle). Here's a [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=7kcvlnW8QYo|video] that shows how to test it, if you wish to.
If you haven't already done so, check the following if only to eliminate them as possible causes of the problem.
* Vacuum any dust from the condenser coil which is mounted underneath the compartments, near the compressor unit. Make sure that the power to the refrigerator is turned off when this is done.
A clogged condenser coil reduces the cooling efficiency of the sealed system, by not allowing the heat absorbed by the refrigerant gas as it passes through the evaporator unit to escape more quickly when it passes through the condenser coil. This causes the compressor to run longer and more often than it should trying to maintain the temperatures within the specified limits.
* When the temperature inside the refrigerator compartment starts to go higher than 40°F check if you can hear the evaporator fan running ''inside the freezer compartment''.
This fan is used to supply air from the icy cold freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down. ''The fan will operate as long as the compressor motor is operating and if both doors are shut.'' The fan will stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the door is closed. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is located under the compartments near the condenser coil and the compressor unit. It can run whether the doors are open or not
* Check that the refrigerator compartment door seals are providing a good tight seal and not that they're allowing cold air to escape from the compartment.
-
Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jam and with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling it out. It will come out with a bit of an effort but not easily and it definitely shouldn't fall out by it self. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides.
+
Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jam and with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling it out. It will come out with a bit of an effort but not easily and it definitely shouldn't fall out by itself. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides.
You could also try placing a turned on flashlight inside the refrigerator compartment and then check if you can detect any light coming out through the door when it is closed. Perhaps best done at night with no external lights on.
* Check that the refrigerator compartment light is turning off when the door is closed. With the door open, manually operate the door switch and check if it turns off.
The heat produced by the light can affect the temperature inside the compartment.
If you find the problem and it is a faulty part that needs replacing, here's the [link|https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/67jq8hlmb6-000593/kitchenaid-ksrs25fgbl01-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts list] that is useful. Locate the wanted part in the list and note the part number that is shown with it. Search online for the ''part number only'' to find suppliers that suit you best. If you search online for ''(insert wanted part number) replacement,'' sometimes if you're lucky, you'll find videos that show how to remove/replace the part
The temperature peaks of approx 50°F occurring every 12 hours would be the result of the auto defrost cycle being done. In your model refrigerator the maximum defrost cycle temp should not exceed 45°F. This is when the [link|https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=WPW10225581|bi-metal thermostat p/n WPW10225581] in the freezer compartment near the evaporator unit, should cut off the power to the defrost heater so as to not damage the evaporator unit. Might be just a discrepancy between the temp that you measure and what the thermostat thinks is its cut off temperature. The specifications for it are that it operates at 45°F and resets at 18°F (to be ready for the next defrost cycle). Here's a [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=7kcvlnW8QYo|video] that shows how to test it, if you wish to.
If you haven't already done so, check the following if only to eliminate them as possible causes of the problem.
* Vacuum any dust from the condenser coil which is mounted underneath the compartments, near the compressor unit. Make sure that the power to the refrigerator is turned off when this is done.
A clogged condenser coil reduces the cooling efficiency of the sealed system, by not allowing the heat absorbed by the refrigerant gas as it passes through the evaporator unit to escape more quickly when it passes through the condenser coil. This causes the compressor to run longer and more often than it should trying to maintain the temperatures within the specified limits.
-
* Check if you can hear the evaporator fan running ''inside the freezer compartment''.
+
* When the temperature inside the refrigerator compartment starts to go higher than 40°F check if you can hear the evaporator fan running ''inside the freezer compartment''.
This fan is used to supply air from the icy cold freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down. ''The fan will operate as long as the compressor motor is operating and if both doors are shut.'' The fan will stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the door is closed. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is located under the compartments near the condenser coil and the compressor unit. It can run whether the doors are open or not
* Check that the refrigerator compartment door seals are providing a good tight seal and not that they're allowing cold air to escape from the compartment.
Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jam and with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling it out. It will come out with a bit of an effort but not easily and it definitely shouldn't fall out by it self. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides.
You could also try placing a turned on flashlight inside the refrigerator compartment and then check if you can detect any light coming out through the door when it is closed. Perhaps best done at night with no external lights on.
* Check that the refrigerator compartment light is turning off when the door is closed. With the door open, manually operate the door switch and check if it turns off.
The heat produced by the light can affect the temperature inside the compartment.
If you find the problem and it is a faulty part that needs replacing, here's the [link|https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/67jq8hlmb6-000593/kitchenaid-ksrs25fgbl01-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts list] that is useful. Locate the wanted part in the list and note the part number that is shown with it. Search online for the ''part number only'' to find suppliers that suit you best. If you search online for ''(insert wanted part number) replacement,'' sometimes if you're lucky, you'll find videos that show how to remove/replace the part
The temperature peaks of approx 50°F occurring every 12 hours would be the result of the auto defrost cycle being done. In your model refrigerator the maximum defrost cycle temp should not exceed 45°F. This is when the [link|https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=WPW10225581|bi-metal thermostat p/n WPW10225581] in the freezer compartment near the evaporator unit, should cut off the power to the defrost heater so as to not damage the evaporator unit. Might be just a discrepancy between the temp that you measure and what it thinks is the correct temperature. The specifications for it are that it operates at 45°F and resets at 18°F (to be ready for the next defrost cycle). Here's a [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=7kcvlnW8QYo|video] that shows how to test it, if you wish to.
+
The temperature peaks of approx 50°F occurring every 12 hours would be the result of the auto defrost cycle being done. In your model refrigerator the maximum defrost cycle temp should not exceed 45°F. This is when the [link|https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=WPW10225581|bi-metal thermostat p/n WPW10225581] in the freezer compartment near the evaporator unit, should cut off the power to the defrost heater so as to not damage the evaporator unit. Might be just a discrepancy between the temp that you measure and what the thermostat thinks is its cut off temperature. The specifications for it are that it operates at 45°F and resets at 18°F (to be ready for the next defrost cycle). Here's a [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=7kcvlnW8QYo|video] that shows how to test it, if you wish to.
If you haven't already done so, check the following if only to eliminate them as possible causes of the problem.
* Vacuum any dust from the condenser coil which is mounted underneath the compartments, near the compressor unit. Make sure that the power to the refrigerator is turned off when this is done.
A clogged condenser coil reduces the cooling efficiency of the sealed system, by not allowing the heat absorbed by the refrigerant gas as it passes through the evaporator unit to escape more quickly when it passes through the condenser coil. This causes the compressor to run longer and more often than it should trying to maintain the temperatures within the specified limits.
* Check if you can hear the evaporator fan running ''inside the freezer compartment''.
This fan is used to supply air from the icy cold freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down. ''The fan will operate as long as the compressor motor is operating and if both doors are shut.'' The fan will stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the door is closed. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is located under the compartments near the condenser coil and the compressor unit. It can run whether the doors are open or not
* Check that the refrigerator compartment door seals are providing a good tight seal and not that they're allowing cold air to escape from the compartment.
Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jam and with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling it out. It will come out with a bit of an effort but not easily and it definitely shouldn't fall out by it self. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides.
You could also try placing a turned on flashlight inside the refrigerator compartment and then check if you can detect any light coming out through the door when it is closed. Perhaps best done at night with no external lights on.
* Check that the refrigerator compartment light is turning off when the door is closed. With the door open, manually operate the door switch and check if it turns off.
The heat produced by the light can affect the temperature inside the compartment.
If you find the problem and it is a faulty part that needs replacing, here's the [link|https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/67jq8hlmb6-000593/kitchenaid-ksrs25fgbl01-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts list] that is useful. Locate the wanted part in the list and note the part number that is shown with it. Search online for the ''part number only'' to find suppliers that suit you best. If you search online for ''(insert wanted part number) replacement,'' sometimes if you're lucky, you'll find videos that show how to remove/replace the part
The temperature peaks of approx 50°F occurring every 12 hours would be the result of the auto defrost cycle being done. In your model refrigerator the maximum defrost cycle temp should not exceed 45°F. This is when the [link|https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=WPW10225581|bi-metal thermostat p/n WPW10225581] in the freezer compartment near the evaporator unit, should cut off the power to the defrost heater so as to not damage the evaporator unit. Might be just a discrepancy between the temp that you measure and what it thinks is the correct temperature. The specifications for it are that it operates at 45°F and resets at 18°F (to be ready for the next defrost cycle). Here's a [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=7kcvlnW8QYo|video] that shows how to test it, if you wish to.
If you haven't already done so, check the following if only to eliminate them as possible causes of the problem.
* Vacuum any dust from the condenser coil which is mounted underneath the compartments, near the compressor unit. Make sure that the power to the refrigerator is turned off when this is done.
A clogged condenser coil reduces the cooling efficiency of the sealed system, by not allowing the heat absorbed by the refrigerant gas as it passes through the evaporator unit to escape more quickly when it passes through the condenser coil. This causes the compressor to run longer and more often than it should trying to maintain the temperatures within the specified limits.
* Check if you can hear the evaporator fan running ''inside the freezer compartment''.
This fan is used to supply air from the icy cold freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down. ''The fan will operate as long as the compressor motor is operating and if both doors are shut.'' The fan will stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the door is closed. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is located under the compartments near the condenser coil and the compressor unit. It can run whether the doors are open or not
* Check that the refrigerator compartment door seals are providing a good tight seal and not that they're allowing cold air to escape from the compartment.
Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jam and with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling it out. It will come out with a bit of an effort but not easily and it definitely shouldn't fall out by it self. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides.
You could also try placing a turned on flashlight inside the refrigerator compartment and then check if you can detect any light coming out through the door when it is closed. Perhaps best done at night with no external lights on.
* Check that the refrigerator compartment light is turning off when the door is closed. With the door open, manually operate the door switch and check if it turns off.
The heat produced by the light can affect the temperature inside the compartment.
-
If you find the problem and it is a faulty part that needs replacing, here's the [https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/67jq8hlmb6-000593/kitchenaid-ksrs25fgbl01-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts list] that is useful.
-
-
Locate the wanted part in the list and note the part number that is shown with it. Search online for the ''part number only'' to find suppliers that suit you best.
-
-
If you search online for ''(insert wanted part number) replacement,'' sometimes if you're lucky, you'll find videos that show how to remove/replace the part
+
If you find the problem and it is a faulty part that needs replacing, here's the [link|https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/67jq8hlmb6-000593/kitchenaid-ksrs25fgbl01-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts list] that is useful. Locate the wanted part in the list and note the part number that is shown with it. Search online for the ''part number only'' to find suppliers that suit you best. If you search online for ''(insert wanted part number) replacement,'' sometimes if you're lucky, you'll find videos that show how to remove/replace the part
The temperature peaks of approx 50°F occurring every 12 hours would be the result of the auto defrost cycle being done. In your model refrigerator the maximum defrost cycle temp should not exceed 45°F. This is when the [https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=WPW10225581|bi-metal thermostat p/n WPW10225581] in the freezer compartment near the evaporator unit, should cut off the power to the defrost heater so as to not damage the evaporator unit. Might be just a discrepancy between the temp that you measure and what it thinks is the correct temperature. The specifications for it are that it operates at 45°F and resets at 18°F (to be ready for the next defrost cycle). Here's a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=7kcvlnW8QYo|video] that shows how to test it, if you wish to.
+
The temperature peaks of approx 50°F occurring every 12 hours would be the result of the auto defrost cycle being done. In your model refrigerator the maximum defrost cycle temp should not exceed 45°F. This is when the [link|https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=WPW10225581|bi-metal thermostat p/n WPW10225581] in the freezer compartment near the evaporator unit, should cut off the power to the defrost heater so as to not damage the evaporator unit. Might be just a discrepancy between the temp that you measure and what it thinks is the correct temperature. The specifications for it are that it operates at 45°F and resets at 18°F (to be ready for the next defrost cycle). Here's a [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=7kcvlnW8QYo|video] that shows how to test it, if you wish to.
If you haven't already done so, check the following if only to eliminate them as possible causes of the problem.
* Vacuum any dust from the condenser coil which is mounted underneath the compartments, near the compressor unit. Make sure that the power to the refrigerator is turned off when this is done.
-
A clogged condenser coil reduces the cooling efficiency of the sealed system, by not allowing the heat absorbed by the refrigerant gas as it passes through the evaporator unit to escape more quickly when it passes through the condenser coil. This causes the compressor to run longer and more often than it should trying to maintain the temperatures within the specified limits.
* Check if you can hear the evaporator fan running ''inside the freezer compartment''.
-
This fan is used to supply air from the icy cold freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down. ''The fan will operate as long as the compressor motor is operating and if both doors are shut.'' The fan will stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the door is closed. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is located under the compartments near the condenser coil and the compressor unit. It can run whether the doors are open or not
* Check that the refrigerator compartment door seals are providing a good tight seal and not that they're allowing cold air to escape from the compartment.
-
Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jam and with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling it out. It will come out with a bit of an effort but not easily and it definitely shouldn't fall out by it self. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides.
You could also try placing a turned on flashlight inside the refrigerator compartment and then check if you can detect any light coming out through the door when it is closed. Perhaps best done at night with no external lights on.
* Check that the refrigerator compartment light is turning off when the door is closed. With the door open, manually operate the door switch and check if it turns off.
+
The heat produced by the light can affect the temperature inside the compartment.
-
The heat produced by the light can affect the temperature inside the compartment
+
If you find the problem and it is a faulty part that needs replacing, here's the [https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/67jq8hlmb6-000593/kitchenaid-ksrs25fgbl01-side-by-side-refrigerator-parts|parts list] that is useful.
+
+
Locate the wanted part in the list and note the part number that is shown with it. Search online for the ''part number only'' to find suppliers that suit you best.
+
+
If you search online for ''(insert wanted part number) replacement,'' sometimes if you're lucky, you'll find videos that show how to remove/replace the part
Hi @slanderous
The temperature peaks of approx 50°F occurring every 12 hours would be the result of the auto defrost cycle being done. In your model refrigerator the maximum defrost cycle temp should not exceed 45°F. This is when the [https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=WPW10225581|bi-metal thermostat p/n WPW10225581] in the freezer compartment near the evaporator unit, should cut off the power to the defrost heater so as to not damage the evaporator unit. Might be just a discrepancy between the temp that you measure and what it thinks is the correct temperature. The specifications for it are that it operates at 45°F and resets at 18°F (to be ready for the next defrost cycle). Here's a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=7kcvlnW8QYo|video] that shows how to test it, if you wish to.
If you haven't already done so, check the following if only to eliminate them as possible causes of the problem.
* Vacuum any dust from the condenser coil which is mounted underneath the compartments, near the compressor unit. Make sure that the power to the refrigerator is turned off when this is done.
A clogged condenser coil reduces the cooling efficiency of the sealed system, by not allowing the heat absorbed by the refrigerant gas as it passes through the evaporator unit to escape more quickly when it passes through the condenser coil. This causes the compressor to run longer and more often than it should trying to maintain the temperatures within the specified limits.
* Check if you can hear the evaporator fan running ''inside the freezer compartment''.
This fan is used to supply air from the icy cold freezer compartment into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down. ''The fan will operate as long as the compressor motor is operating and if both doors are shut.'' The fan will stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the door is closed. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is located under the compartments near the condenser coil and the compressor unit. It can run whether the doors are open or not
* Check that the refrigerator compartment door seals are providing a good tight seal and not that they're allowing cold air to escape from the compartment.
Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jam and with the door closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling it out. It will come out with a bit of an effort but not easily and it definitely shouldn't fall out by it self. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides.
You could also try placing a turned on flashlight inside the refrigerator compartment and then check if you can detect any light coming out through the door when it is closed. Perhaps best done at night with no external lights on.
* Check that the refrigerator compartment light is turning off when the door is closed. With the door open, manually operate the door switch and check if it turns off.
The heat produced by the light can affect the temperature inside the compartment