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Repair guides and support for a wide range of sound cards.

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Diagnose PCI Sound Card

About a EMU APS audio card (it is a PCI card, came out in 1999).

I had made it work with WinXP but after a re-installation of WinXP, and re-install the card (with the same drivers in the same PC), i have this problem :

I have install the drivers, and the card shows in the Device Manager and is enabled in the Mixer but it refused to play audio. It is strange because the peak meter on the Mixer application is moving, which indicates things should be working...

I am trying to make it work now and for 1,5 month with no luck. I have installed all the Windows OS : Win95, Win98, Win2000, WinMe, WinXP, WinVista (with drivers i found on web), but the card do not have sound, in all of these OS''s.

I also gave the card to a technician to examine it if there is a bad circuit, but he told me that the card seems to be OK but he is not 100% sure, and he do not have the time to examine it more closely, because he do these only for expensive cards. When i told him the this card cost, (back in 1999) 700$, he did not believe me.

Something tells me that there is something wrong in the card.

Is there a way to examine it, on board or off board to diagnose if there is something which became bad (a capacitor, a resistor or something else, like the output jacks) ?

Any tip or idea, will help.

Thanks

Audio Card front

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Audio Card back

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Electrolytic Capacitor no1

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Electrolytic Capacitor no2

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Tantalum cap

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Tantalum caps that beeping continuously are in blue boxes

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Dried transparent material around the two leads of one of the two electrolytic cap

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Buses passes through near the two legs of the electrolytic capacitor

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Burn Examine 1

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Burn Examine 2

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Unknown elements 1

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Destroyed base

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Unknown element 2 (the right one is damaged)

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new desolder components

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Components with no Volt 1

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Components with no Volt 2

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After seeing an EMU card repair video, I began to suspect the two capacitors on the card.

Can somebody tell, from the pictures, if one or both of these two capacitors are faulty ?

Or can somebody tell me how to check them ? I have a multi-meter.

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@dorosk We will replace both of those capacitors at some point, but first, I'd like to make sure that none of the tantalum caps are faulty.

With your multimeter on diode check mode, check across the two leads of the tantalum capacitor. If the meter continues beeping after a few seconds or shows a low number on the display after a few seconds, the cap might be faulty. Do this for all the capacitors in red boxes in the attached picture and let me know if any of them come up as shorted/faulty.

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I test it. The result ere these :

With the red probe in "-" and black probe in "+" lead of the caps, all caps are continuously beebing.

With the red probe in "+" and black probe in "-" lead of the cap, caps no C77, C79, C81 and C82, do not beebing. Caps no C78, C80, C83, C84, C100, C101, continuously beeping.

(i want to post a picture with beebing caps, marked, but i cannot see the option for attach pictures)

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@dorosk You can add more pictures using the Adding images to an existing question guide on the original question you posted.

Other components may be affecting these readings, but we will probably want to order some tantalum caps of the correct value as well.

What country do you live in (so I can find a distributor that ships to your country affordably)?

I will also need closer-up pictures of the affected tantalum capacitors so I can read the codes on them.

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OK

In a few minutes i will add some pictures to my original post-question.

Also i will show you some caps i found in store based in a city here in Greece were i live.

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I have found these caps in a store here in Greece :

1) model: T491A225K016AT

Capacitor tantalum, 2.2uF, 16VDC, SMD, Case A, 1206, ±10%

2) model: 293D225X9016A2TE3

Capacitor tantalum, 2.2uF, 16VDC, SMD, Case A, ±10%, -55÷125°C

3) model: TAJC225M035R

Capacitor tantalum SMD 2.2uF 35V Case C ±20% 55÷125°C

Made by AVX

4) model: TAJA225K016R

Capacitor tantalum SMD 2.2uF 16V Case A ±10% 55÷125°C

Made by AVX

5) model: TAJA225M016R

Capacitor tantalum SMD 2.2uF 16V Case A ±20% 55÷125°C

Made by AVX

6) model: TAJA225M025R

Capacitor tantalum SMD 2.2uF 25V Case A ±20% 55÷125°C

Made by AVX

7) model: TAJB225M025R

Capacitor tantalum SMD 2.2uF 25V Case B ±20% 55÷125°C

Made by AVX

First two are black. The rest are yellow.

I do not know the volts of mine caps.

On my caps there is label with these :

E 2μ2

L S

The "S" is reversed.

I will add picture.

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@dorosk Your tantalum capacitors are 25 volts, signified by the E printed on the capacitor.

Did you find any 1000uF electrolytic capacitors at that store?

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Diagnosing issues with a PCI sound card involves a systematic approach to identify and resolve the problem. Here's a step-by-step guide to help you diagnose and troubleshoot problems with a PCI sound card:

  1. Check Physical Connections: Make sure the sound card is securely and correctly inserted into the PCI slot on your motherboard. Ensure that any power connectors or additional cables required by the sound card are properly connected.
  2. Check Device Manager: In Windows, open the Device Manager to see if the sound card is recognized by the system. Look for any exclamation marks or question marks next to the sound card entry, which could indicate driver issues.
  3. Update Drivers: Outdated or incompatible drivers can cause sound card issues. Visit the manufacturer's website and download the latest drivers for your sound card model. Install them and restart your computer.
  4. Check Audio Settings: Make sure the sound card is selected as the default audio playback device in your system settings. You can usually access these settings through the Control Panel or the system tray volume icon.
  5. Test Different Speakers/Headphones: Sometimes, the issue might not be with the sound card itself but with the speakers or headphones. Test different audio output devices to ensure that the problem is not external.
  6. Check for Hardware Conflicts: Check if there are any hardware conflicts that might be affecting the sound card's functionality. This can also be done in the Device Manager.
  7. Run Windows Troubleshooters: Windows often includes built-in troubleshooters that can help identify and fix common issues. Run the "Troubleshoot audio playback" or similar troubleshooter to see if it can resolve the problem.
  8. Check BIOS Settings: Some motherboards have BIOS settings related to onboard audio and PCI sound cards. Ensure that the correct settings are enabled or disabled based on your setup.
  9. Test on Another System: If possible, try installing the sound card in another system to see if it works. This can help determine if the issue is with the sound card itself or with your current system's configuration.
  10. Check for Physical Damage: Inspect the sound card for any signs of physical damage, such as bent pins or burnt components. If you find any, the card might be faulty and need replacement.
  11. Contact Manufacturer Support: If you've tried all the above steps and the sound card still doesn't work, reach out to the manufacturer's customer support for further assistance. They might have specific troubleshooting steps or recommendations.
  12. Consider Professional Help: If you're not comfortable diagnosing and troubleshooting hardware issues on your own, consider taking your system to a professional technician or a computer repair shop for further assistance.

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@Indonesia Trade Data

Hello and thanks for your help, but if you have read my first post and especially this statment :

"...I am trying to make it work now and for 1,5 month with no luck. I have installed all the Windows OS : Win95, Win98, Win2000, WinMe, WinXP, WinVista (with drivers i found on web), but the card do not have sound, in all of these OS's."

you would not propose number 2,3,4,6,7,8 because somebody who have install all these OS, one after the other and not for once but many time each off these, chances are to have, in detailed way, examine all these solutions, that number 2,3,4,6,7,8 solutions proposes.

Also...

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Also if you would have read in my first post, this statement :

"...I also gave the card to a technician to examine it if there is a bad circuit, but he told me

that the card seems to be OK but he is not 100% sure, and he do not have the time to examine it more closely, because he do these only for expensive cards. When i told him the this card cost,

(back in 1999) 700$, he did not believe me."

you would not propose number 11.

Also number 1 and 5 solution included in my same statement "...I am trying to make it work now

and for 1,5 month"

Do you thing that somebody who trying to repair its card for 1,5 (now 2) months now, has not check if the card is securely and correctly inserted into the PCI slot on the motherboard ?

For number 9 solution...

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For number 9 solution, if you would have read all my posts and the answer and posts of AndrewS WHO REALLY TRY TO HELP ME, you should not propose it.

For number 10 : This is a proof that you did not read my first answer or you read it and you have understand nothing, or very little. Fist words of my answer was this :

"...About a EMU APS audio card (it is a PCI card, came out in 1999).."

There is not Manufacturer Support after 24 years of the first release of any product except some rarely cases.

Did you read my first answer and all later posts ?

I really appreciate your trying to help me, but if you have read the answer and do not understand it, please do not post anything. It is a wast of space and time.

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If AndrewS reading, need again help or any idea... After almost 1 year i made everything to bring it back in life. I de-solder about 15 components, found new ones, bought them and also bough a solder station, build a digital microscope and yesterday i replace them all. After i connect it in PC, there were spikes in the E-DRIVE connector. I de-solder it but continue to give spikes and fire in the same area.

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I try to clean the area so nothing touch each other and the spikes and fire stop but after a few seconds one of the tantalum capacitors burned completely. I replace it but again burned.

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I know that my changes to fix it is almost zero, that is why i am looking if somebody sell one but the only one i found sell both parts ( this card have two parts, the E-Card and the E-Drive). I only need the Card. And it sell it in a very high price.

So if somebody have an idea, i will give it a try...

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Finally, after a long period of trying, the problem was solved.

Problem was due to the shorted PLD. Probably by the faulty PSU.

It was repaired by "transplanting" from a donor card. Α forum member gave me this idea and he really helped. It was very difficult to find such a similar card. I found it in an old shop and although it was sold only for spare parts, gave me its PLD and replacing with it the short-circuited PLD of my own original card I made this card work again.

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