crwdns2942213:0crwdne2942213:0
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Remove the 8 coarse thread wood screws and gently pry the plate out
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Carefully remove the 3 knobs and the 1 screw between the 2 10A fuses. then the plastic face should pop off
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Crossover / Gain
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Power Supply and output FET's
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Power Supply Transformer
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Output Filters
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The 2 boards are held together by 4 screws on the edges of the PCB, gently pull them apart, they will only be held together by pin headers. Here you can see the 2 output filters and the power supply step up transformer
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The board with the FEMALE pin headers is the front board with the plugs on it. the crossover network consists of JRC 4850's
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There are 4 of these "GA7E1S" FET's that i cant find any info on. i would assume by looking at the boards that 2 are the power supply and the other 2 are the outputs
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There are NO heatsinks anywhere in this unit which i find amazing. but the FETS most likely use the massive copper planes on the board as the heatsink
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More jelly bean logic around the board
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The custom 12" driver. it appears to be a DVC driver, but its just a SVC with 2 pairs of leads going to it
How do I find a replacement sub.what is impedance and wattage?
not sure i never pulled it. i would assume 4 but it could very well be a 2 ohm unit. wattage at least 300W as thats what the amp is
The magnet on mine broke can it be replaced
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Here's my February 2025 update. i Finally have pulled this P300-12 again to do what i have been requested a few times, and that is to pull the actual driver itself
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Once you remove the 8 3MM hex head bolts the driver is not glued in but it does fit very snug with the textured vinyl covering making it very difficult to remove from the front. It was MUCH easier to pop out from the back sticking my hand through the amplifier hole.
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Here we again see the twin pair of leads going to the SVC driver, they really do NOT want you to remove this thing, each spade terminal is soldered onto the driver!
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And the answer to the comments, the Rockford Fosgate P300-12's possibly custom spun driver is 2 Ohms
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crwdns2947412:023crwdne2947412:0
Nice, if you can do one on pulling the sub out that would be great. I think it might be glued in.
I have the 10” version of this sub but believe the amp is identical. I’d like to steal the amp from this to use in a new enclosure. Any idea how many ohms this could drive?
Im not sure, when i did this teardown i never thought about doing an ohms test on the driver. it might be a 2 ohm driver, but if you have the 10”, pop the plate amp out and stick a meter on the driver lol
I have a p300-12 , but the box shape is all wrong for my ‘07 FJ. What obstacles do you see after the teardown for transplanting the amp and sub into a custom fit box? Thanks in advance!
i dont see any issues with that idea. just when you get a new box get one thats similar in volume as the original and also sealed as i have no idea how the driver would perform in a vented enclosure. just keep the original rockford box so if you decide to sell it down the line you can reinstall it
Thanks man, I’ll let you know how it goes for future reference.
Any update on the custom box for your FJ? I am wanting to do the same and was wondering if it would work.
Brandon -
Anyone have a solution to the fuses blowing after 4-6 min of firing ….. I pulled the amp and soldered new leads to the pos and neg on the woofer and connected it to a new amp and it works but I’d really like to fix this all in one amp to clean up the trunk …. anyone have an amp with a blown woofer or a direction on determining the culprits on the boards ?
The subwoofer on my P300-12 blew and I’m trying to get a replacement sub. Problem is, I don’t know if it’s a 2-ohm or 4-ohm sub. This is the only tear down I could find and was wondering if you had any insight.
I Do not as i never though of pulling the driver out. dummy moment
When in doubt always use the higher ohm.
Lower ohm drivers than any amp can deliver will burn outputs in the amp.
I have a P300-12 and yesterday it stopped playing sound, i also hava a p300-10 i tested this one in my car and it works. the amp of the p300-12 powers on but don’t play music anymore.
Any suggestions? :)
can you make a tutorial on how to repair the bass knob or how to jumper the conections on the board thanks
Bass knob is just a potentiometer on a PCB. Should be as easy as resoldering cracked joints on the inside or just replacing it
Hello! I Have a problem with 2 transistors q6 and q7 ,what type are they? Mine's is burn . I can't see enithing on them. Thank's in advance.
Did you ever get an answer to your question? Do you still need an answer?
I ended up with my ground cable coming loose and ultimately burnt up the tinsel wires on the sub. I ordered a 300 watt jl audio that im goung to replace it with but now i cant seem to find my input plug to hook up my rca cables. Is there a way i can just use an rca cable, strip the wires on other end and solder it into the sub box? I dont want to wait for a replacement plug is my issue and im more than capable of doing this. Guidance would be appreciated though.
Great pics. Took mine apart to sort out that the driver was bad. Cone would not move smoothly - resistance and then jump like it was indexed. could not find exact replacement, so ordered an RF R2D2. Will wire in series for 4ohms.
how did it work out with the RF R2D2speaker? i want to replace my blown speaker as well. cant find any information on this
My ps300-10 dont have power. All fuses seem to be ok, whatbcould be the problem?
Ohm test the fuses. If fuses are okay, issue would be board related. Also make sure its getting remote signal to turn on
What’s the depth measurement of the sub
Anyone know the magnet size for the p300-12
