In this guide, we will learn how to replace the camera lens on the iPhone 7 Plus.

  1. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement, Pentalobe Screws: step 1, image 1 of 1
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.

    pargoff - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.

    Ben Meinhart - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!

    Vanessa Pinter - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?

    adam - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???

    lkollar - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I just found the instructions on how to install the seals AFTER I was completed and had to figure it out. Maybe, just maybe you should link this somewhere on the guild instead of buried in a comment. Just a thought.

    Charles Meitin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Step 1 is: Read through all the steps and comments or the method prior to starting on this Step 1. There's a lot of much needed information and experience that you can learn from which will reduce the chance of struggling, wasting time or even breaking your device.

    My favourites are:

    Use a hot water bottle.

    Label all screws you remove with their size and location on a piece of paper with double sided sticky tape.

    Test the lightning assembly at step 13

    There is a Standoff driver bit in the box, don't use a screwdriver.


    Neil Eriksen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  2. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement, Opening Procedure: step 2, image 1 of 1
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    How long should I use a hairdryer for?

    Warren Binder - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I used it until it was hot to the touch but not too hot where you burn yourself.

    gczarny -

    Hey, I just took apart my first iPhone 7 plus today, and it was easier for me to use guitar picks and a magic glass tool. I did tear the home flex on the screen—now I know to be more careful of that on disassembly—-~Katrina of iPad Rehab Microsoldering

    jessabethany - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    First I tried to remove the screen with the hot iOpener, but it doesn’t worked, the day after I putted the Iphone in the sun for a while and then used the hot iOpener, then the screen was easy to remove :-)

    Marc Boon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Get a T-shirt add heat to a lil corner of it, with either a hair straighter or an Iron , touch the T-shirt if it’s seems hot but doesn’t burn u hold that lil hot piece of T-shirt against the edge ur trying to pry open , if it’s still not opening add a I’ll more heat,

    www.tertlegerl - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I don’t think the iOpener was effective at softening the adhesive. Using a suction cup and the spudger is good enough.

    Mac - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I took a hot water bottle and layed it on the display of the iPhone for a minute, because I did not have an iOpener. That worked for me perfect.

    Michael Maier - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  3. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 3, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 3, image 2 of 2
    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    Hi! My suction cup doesn’t work. It won’t strongly suck on my screen. Does anyone have any advice?

    kaiminliu119 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Heat it up just a little with a hair dryer make sure it’s flat , let it coo a bit now try it??

    robertread - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The suction cup you provide sucks. In that it doesn’t hold. Luckily I had a set of heavy duty suction cups from when I worked on my iMac.

    Charles Meitin - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  4. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 4, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 4, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 4, image 3 of 3
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

    • While pulling up on the suction cup, twist the spudger to widen the opening between the screen and rear case.

    Be very careful not to pull up with too much force. My screen just shattered while I was pulling up with my suction cup. (There were no previous cracks or chips or anything).

    Benjamin Pounds - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I’m stuck on this part. I’ve heated the bottom up and attached the suction cup right above the home button, but I can’t pull it apart. I feel like I’m going to break the glass display. Tips?

    whtafrcn420 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Someone mentioned above, using strong tape helps .

    MajorCouillon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    You won’t be able to put the spudger into the gap unless the phone is in a vertical position (speaker side up) in your hands.

    Mac - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    read steps 4-9 before attempting. I cracked my glass because I didn’t

    David Lei - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My first 7 Plus opening. I pulled up the screen just enough to insert a thin guitar pick at the bottom of the phone to break the adhesive. I didn’t even create a gap as such. I then ran the pick along the sides to continue to detach the adhesive, just like iFixIt show in Step 10 for the top of the phone.

    My screen already had a crack at the bottom, near the home button, so I was nervous about pulling too hard on the screen. It had a screen protector fitted so maybe that helped keep it all together.

    iFixIt’s use of a spudger at the bottom of the phone looked hazardous to me, especially with my damaged screen.

    Big Ed - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This must be a joke. I’ve been trying for days to pull open the iphone like this. Doesn’t work. I bent the ring on the suction cup trying to pull it off, but nothing happens, no gap, not remote possibility of a pick or spudger getting in there.

    James Osborne - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Ended up using a blowdryer and a razor blade. Bottom got scratched up, but there was no way that fat plastic spudger was going to fit. I got the razor under the corner, from there worked to middle and twisted with repeatedly adding heat. Lots of heat.

    James Osborne - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  5. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 5, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 5, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 5, image 3 of 3
    • Insert the flat end of the spudger between the front panel and the rear case at the lower left edge of the iPhone.

    • Slide the spudger up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

  6. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 6, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 6, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the spudger from the left side of the phone and insert the flat end into the bottom right corner.

    • Slide the spudger up the right edge of the phone to the top corner, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

  7. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 7, image 2 of 2
    • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

    • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are delicate ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

    The ribbon cable part should be said earlier instead of halfway through

    I just broke one because of it

    BrenX1 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  8. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 8, image 2 of 2
    • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  9. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 9, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 9, image 2 of 2
    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

  10. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 10, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 10, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 10, image 3 of 3
    • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    So if I broke the cable that connects the display to the logic board. What replacement part would I need to order now?

    Robert Danson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Probably the screen

    Christian Sirolli -

  11. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement, Battery Disconnection: step 11, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.6 mm screw

    Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.

    u204863 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    You could stick the suction cup back on, near the right side of the phone, with the blue hook oriented in such a way that it becomes a stand for the screen. That way it won’t open much more than 90 degrees, and leaves both your hands free.

    Mark -

    The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?

    shannon caldwell - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    At first I think I was being too careful and was getting no where. I got better results by pressing down on the screwdriver with more pressure while turning and those little screws came right out.

    LadyTech - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?

    Katherine Monday - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    @katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    my screwdriver will only remove the 2.6mm screw and not the others, what shall i do?

    AubreyG1 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!

    Trey Smith - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    STOP! Before you remove Any screws, be sure to create several bins to hold the various sizes in… or mark them like Trey suggested. I failed to pay attention because I thought they were all the same… they are not. It is very hard to figure out the sizes if you remove them all and store them in a single location.

    John Grant - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    i had a piece of paper with the steps numbered that involved screws. I had double sided tape on the paper and the number of screws and thier position marked. This was so helpful in removing and then finding and installing the tiniest screws on earth. And i have TINY hands. I can’t imagine someone with large paws being able to accomplish any of this.

    Tina Matthews - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  12. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 12, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 12, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the lower display cable bracket.

    I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    chris west - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.

    Scott Havard - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol

    Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.

    jeffrey griffith - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I had to use a fingernail to dislodge the bracket. As Jeffrey said, it was apparently stuck to the connector.

    lkollar - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  13. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 13, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 13, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 13, image 3 of 3
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

    You could cover the battery socket with a small piece of tape to make sure that it doesn’t accidentally re-connect. It’s not likely to, but I liked the peace of mind.

    Mark - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.

    Sarr Sheffer - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.

    MajorCouillon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.

    Evan O - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  14. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement, Display Assembly: step 14, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement, Display Assembly: step 14, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement, Display Assembly: step 14, image 3 of 3
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

    The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

    Talon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?

    Alextay - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….

    Darius Varanavičius -

    what are my options if the display connector broke? can it be replaced or do I need to get a whole new screen?

    matomach - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.

    Grant Crawford - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol

    Joshua Driscoll - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…

    ibisiki -

    Bent the pins on the connector out of place, worked them very carefully back with fine nose tweezers. This was by far the crux of the repair for me.

    nicO Gurney - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  15. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 15, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 15, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 15, image 3 of 3
    • Remove the three tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • Two 1.0 mm screws

    • Remove the bracket.

    Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

    chris west - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I know your comment was posted a long time ago but just in case someone else has the same problem, the only difference in the screws are the lengths. The ends are the same.

    mcr4u2 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?

    assweeetasyou - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!

    Wayne Lyell -

    Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +

    Jeremiah Kjensmo - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I called the y tip a triangle tip until I read these comments. Thanks for the correction

    Kayla Tobin -

    Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?

    alicenine84 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.

    Benji - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.

    Stephen Patterson -

    I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?

    I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.

    My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.

    Would appreciate any advice!

    jrosegoep - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Dear IFixit: First, I want You to know I love your repair guides. I consider You to be the absolute best repair manuals available. But, hopefully as your friend I am going to point out once the bracked is removed a 2.0 mm Standoff screw should appear. It’s 1 of 2 screws holding the Antena Flex Cable in place. Rob

    Robert Schmidt - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  16. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 16, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 16, image 2 of 2
    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

    Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!

    Kevin Reilly - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thanks Kevin. I would be stuck if I hadn't read your comment!?! Great input.

    Lukas Watts -

    That's save my life!thanks god!

    neg -

    I also made this mistake! Thank goodness it didn’t break anything.

    That Guy - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  17. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 17, image 1 of 1

    When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.

    Benji - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Thank you for including a link to the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide, this was very helpful!

    Robert O'Brien - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    is it really necessary to remove the display? the screen connectors are delicate and I fear re-assembly errors. I changed the battery and did not remove any screen connectors. no problems.

    jacobra - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Due to the fact that THIS is the repair guide for replacing the DISPLAY it IS necessary to remove the display connectors. There is another guide for changing the battery -- you might want to follow that one.

    Hannes -

    • Remove the two screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket:

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.2 mm standoff screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

  18. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 19, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the bracket covering the rear-facing camera assembly.

  19. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 20, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 20, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 20, image 3 of 3
    • Use an iFixit opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the two camera cable connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets.

  20. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 21, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 21, image 2 of 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the rear-facing camera assembly from the top edge of the iPhone.

  21. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement: step 22, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the rear-facing camera assembly.

  22. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement, Camera bottom bracket: step 23, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement, Camera bottom bracket: step 23, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement, Camera bottom bracket: step 23, image 3 of 3
    • It's difficult to remove this bottom bracket. The inside round edge of this bracket seems to be soldered with camera lens ring; so you need much more effort and it's not surprising to break the bracket altogether.

    • I like to take a flat screw driver and push it in where it wont damage any components and just pull until I hear small tears.

    • Thats where the soldering have happened, you can also see it in picture three.

    I pulled the tabs with a small pair of pliers. Did the job neatly with less risk of damaging surrounding components.

    Martin Cooper - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If you order just the glass replacement for this repair it is much easier. Instead of pulling out and destroying the housing from the inside as shown in this guide, you can complete this repair by carefully breaking out the glass bits from the front. Make sure you have removed your camera housings as shown in the previous steps to avoid damage to the cameras. Use a small hammer and a flat-head screwdriver to shatter the glass. Pick out remaining bits with jewelers pliers or metal tweezers. Once all of the glass bits are removed, clean the adhesive residue with acetone (nail polish remover). Apply the new replacement glass by removing the backer that covers the adhesive. Press firmly for 30 seconds.

    This method preserves the metal bracket and plate which are not typically sold as replacement parts with this type of repair. This guide should be updated with this technique in my opinion.

    Chris Meerdo - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  23. iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement, Final step: step 24, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement, Final step: step 24, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Lens Glass Replacement, Final step: step 24, image 3 of 3
    • The last step is to push the cracked camera lens out from inside.

    • First, find a tool you prefer and easy to use with effort. Then, put your hands where your power will land to protect the rear case from bending. Next, push the camera lens with effort. Please be careful with the phone and your hand very much.

    • When you place the new camera lens, you will need glue or adhesive to fasten the camera lens as well as the new bottom bracket.

    • You don't have to have a new bracket, its not necessary.

    • If you worry about the iPhone 7 Plus being damaged, please send it to an Apple center.

    • What I do here is that I put the phone firmly at the table with the camera sticking out, I place my flat screwdriver where the red marker is and I slightly tap the screwdriver with a hammer.

    What kind of adhesive would you use?

    Kienan - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    • To insert a new one you place it on the table and gently lay your phone above it pushing it back inside.

    • Make sure that the new camera lens is flush with the back and you are good to reverse the steps.


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.




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When will you pretend finish this guide with picture? I have the same problem but I don’t want to loss the waterproof. Do you know another form to fix or soleve this problem?

Jose Juan Castro Ojeda - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

You will lose waterproof unfortunally. Seals may be replaced but will not be 100%

nicolay.94 -

Adding pictures today.

nicolay.94 -

I read that the bottom bracket you mention at the end is fallen alignment bracket and it aligns the camera lens. Do you know how to add it back? Or we’ll install a new one

pxolo10 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

You will have to get this part: iPhone 7 Plus Rear Camera Alignment Bracket

as the other one is soldered and will break and bend. You will have to align the bracket yourself to replace it.

nicolay.94 -

What kind of glue or adhesive did you use to secure the Camarena lens?

pxolo10 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

B-7000 Clear is what I use.

nicolay.94 -

I write in Russian. Вчера я сделал это самостоятельно для iPhone 7 plus. Предварительно купил для камеры Metal Holder (bottom bracket) и Shockproof Sponge. Рамку стекла я вытолкнул карандашом после некоторых усилий, это выполнимо. Сначала я пытался нагреть, но это не облегчает задачу. В конце концов я применил механическое давление. Я разбил стекло камеры, приложил карандаш к твердой поверхности, просунул второй конец карандаша в отверстие камеры, обхватил корпус iPhone удобно пальцами и сильно, но аккуратно стал давить. Спустя 2 минуты давления рамка камеры поддалась и вытолкнулась. Я использовал черный автомобильный герметик чтобы вклеить новую рамку (мой iPhone черного цвета), проблем не возникло. Metal Holder тоже намазал герметиком. Я думаю, что так же можно использовать пяти минутный эпоксидный клей. При сборке корпуса я так же промазал герметик по периметру, я подумал, что это будет лучше, чем черный скотч 3М. Бросать в воду я не стану, но думаю водонепроницаемость моего iPhone в порядке.

Albert - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Il ricambio è compatibile anche perno iPhone 8 plus?

Riccardo Mazzoni - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Nice guide, very helpful! Some suggestions:

•It would be nice to include instructions and photos on replacing the alignment bracket and foam pad.

•My new camera lens cover from iFixit arrived with dust on the inside and was difficult to clean until I figured out to use a lint-free cloth wrapped around the spudger pick, and applied light pressure to clean the inside of the camera lens cover. This is important, because had I not done this, the camera could have had a haze from the dust on the inside of the lens cover upon reassembly.

•Storing the camera module facing down, while working on the alignment bracket and lens cover, will keep dust from settling on the camera module lens.

Robert O'Brien - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

Although I successfully completed the repair, I could have used more detailed instructions (with photos) of the replacement process. Once the cracked dual rear camera lens cover was removed, I was left to sort out the rest myself. Could have used some instruction on how to PROPERLY install the new items. Following suggestions on the site, I had purchased the new Dual Rear Camera Lens Cover along with a new Rear Camera Alignment Bracket and Rear Camera Foam Pads. It would have been helpful to know how to reassemble the new items. Kind of a large gap in guidance here!

ELLO WEE - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0



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