Use this guide to remove the ringer/hold switch and volume buttons from your iPhone 5c.

This guide requires removing the battery. The adhesive strips securing the battery are not re-usable, so you'll want to have a supply of replacement adhesive strips on hand before you begin. Alternatively, you can secure the battery using a piece of double-sided tape. The battery is pretty tightly secured in the device, but the tape will keep it from rattling.

  1. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, Taping the display glass: step 1, image 1 of 3 iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, Taping the display glass: step 1, image 2 of 3 iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, Taping the display glass: step 1, image 3 of 3
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

  2. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, Removing the Pentalobe screws: step 2, image 1 of 1
    • Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.8 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning connector.

    to keep screws in order, buy some double sided tape and then affix the tape in small pieces to a sheet of paper. As you take the screws out, you can affix them to the tape (which is on the paper) and then write a description of what they are and where they go. quick, cheap and easy.

    V. Jones - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I found that these screws did not remove easily. After turning several times and feeling the threads drop back, indicating they were loose, the heads did not extend far enough to grip with my fingernails to pull out. I had to use the tweezers and then it took a bit more force than expected to remove them.

    Jim Thomas - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My iPhone 5c has P1 Pentalobe screws, not P2. This guide caused me to buy wrong tools so I thought I would share my experience. Perhaps they vary.

    Cody Craven - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    @codycraven01 These guides are created using iFixit tools, and P2 is definitely the correct driver. If you’re using tools you bought somewhere else, then yes, results may vary.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5c that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair on an iPhone 5, 5s, or 5c. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 5.

    • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

    • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

    • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

    • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

    I just replaced my iPhone 5C battery today and only used the I fix it repair kit that came with the suction cup. Getting the glass screen out was not too difficult as I used a little bit of upward motion on the suction cup while at the same time prying gently with the flat end of the opening tool at the same time. If you have two people it makes it a little easier as someone can hold the phone. After getting the end open, I was able to go around the perimeter and gently pry up the edges with very little trouble.

    V. Jones - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Experienced immediate problem: there is s strap going from the home button to the screen, about 1-1/2 inch long. After removing 3-4 screws I saw no way to disconnect it from either end. My daughter came to help get the screws back (my 70 years have problems with very tiny screws). Slid a piece back and the strap came free of the home button ares. Screen could only open then 75-80 degrees. Tapr tore. Pried battery out. Replaced on original sticky tape. Restarted fine and about to recycle the charge. Thanks for the kit and all. But 6 demos and 3 inatructions never mentioned this strip! So careful opening it up, please!!

    Michael W Mason - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    @mikamazn What you’re describing sounds like an iPhone 5s. This guide is for the 5c. Glad to hear things worked out for you.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  3. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, Finishing the iSclack Opening Procedure: step 4, image 1 of 2 iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, Finishing the iSclack Opening Procedure: step 4, image 2 of 2
    • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

    • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any cables.

    • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

    • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 8.

  4. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, Manual Opening Procedure: step 5, image 1 of 1
    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

    very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.

    bromanmoon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  5. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, Start lifting the front panel assembly: step 6, image 1 of 2 iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, Start lifting the front panel assembly: step 6, image 2 of 2
    • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.

    • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

    • With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

    • There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

    Cover a badly cracked screen with a strip of packing tape first to get a better seal for your suction cup. If it's a super crappy suction cup, moistening it a bit will help as well.

    Dan - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Great Idea! I have been doing this for awhile and have never thought to share!

    duston -

    The pry point in this photo is spot on. Just be gentle and maybe come in at a little steeper angle.

    V. Jones - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This part ended up being really easy for me. I applied the suction cup just as the picture shows and pulled slowly almost straight up; the screen came off very easily and I didn’t even need to use a plastic prying tool. Not sure why it worked so well but I’m glad!

    Renee - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I did it with a guitar pick and no suction cup.

    andrew - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Be sure not to use metal pry tools as they may crack the plastic.

    guardian10 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  6. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 1
    • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

    • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

  7. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, Opening up the phone: step 8, image 1 of 2 iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, Opening up the phone: step 8, image 2 of 2
    • Lift the home button end of the front panel up to gain access to the connectors near the top of the phone.

    • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    Using a can works really well!

    Amy Dachs - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I use an old iPhone box to support the open phone. Set the box up on its end, and rubber band the screen side to the box. It works perfectly!

    Travis Henrick - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    What do I do if it’s a little sticky and dirty inside?

    sunnydsunset2014 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  8. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 9, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

    These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!

    Joe Shirghio - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I found that you don't need to disconnect the battery... why bother doing more fiddling with annoyingly tiny screws and obstinate cable connectors when you don't actually have to? Especially when you could only end up causing more damage. As a matter of fact, the original iFixit video didn't bother to disconnect the battery either, but they've since updated the video to include battery disconnection, I guess as a "belt and braces" approach in case the repair-hero forgets to power down the phone first?

    Michael Allen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution, and yes it's worth doing. Even with the phone powered off, there is some danger of blowing the backlight filter fuse if you disconnect the display while the battery is connected. At that point you're no longer looking at a simple DIY repair. Even though it's possible to skip this step and still come out okay, my advice is not to risk it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s a relatively junky phone, so if it breaks, what the heck. I’m not going to disconnect the battery.

    Zachariah Sampson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  9. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 10, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

  10. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, Disconnecting the battery connector: step 11, image 1 of 1
    • Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket or the board itself, you may destroy the socket or damage nearby components on the board.

    Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.

    Jona Wolff - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Accidentally pulling out the logic board socket is no idle warning - exactly what I did without much effort. I think this shouldn’t be described as ‘prying’ up because it implies needing to use force - but these things actually pop off quite easily with a nudge, which you discover at later steps.

    Peter Hill - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  11. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 12, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following Phillips #000 screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • One 3.25 mm screw

    • It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 3.25 mm screw or the 1.7 mm screw in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

    • Be careful not to over-tighten the screws. If they don't fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size—don't force them.

    I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.

    jacobstevens - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.

    Fredrick Apel - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I always take a picture of the phone, print it out, then use scotch tape to tape the screws onto the picture in the location where they go. You don't lose the screws and you always know where they go for re-assembly

    K Jansen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    good tip! but instead of taking & printing a picture of your own phone, you probably could just print the color coded pic from this step (assuming everything on your phone is exactly the same).

    travismlive -

    When reassembling, the screw holder that the screws screw into came off the board. Is there a way to superglue that back in?

    Chandler Perez - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    no, do not use super-glue. Quite some of these ‘screw-holders’ are screws themselves with e hollow tread in the head (didn’t find the correct naming for it) - just like the things you screw into a PC case and fasten the mainboard on.

    akronymus -

    did NOT remove the front entirely. its not necessary to do this to remove the battery. these are only precautionary steps in case your clumsy or you feel you might not be able to manage it without. as always, be cautious.

    matt - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Agree. Step 12 is unnecessary if one is extremely careful.

    Christopher -

    *warning* … this connector assembly is very messy to re-build. Next time I change such a battery, I’ll try to get it out carefully *without* detaching the display unit. My resumée: *never* unscrew more things than necessary. These things are not M five (5 mm bolt diameter) like on a bike, these are M zero-point-five. Even for a smirf, this is tiny stuff.

    akronymus - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    is it necessary to remove these screws in order to remove the battery?

    Ali Ahsan - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Hi Ali,

    You can choose to not remove those screws and still be able to take the battery out. Be very careful supporting the display, or you may tear the display cables and damage your screen.

    Arthur Shi -

  12. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 13, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

  13. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, Disconnecting the front panel assembly cables: step 14, image 1 of 2 iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, Disconnecting the front panel assembly cables: step 14, image 2 of 2
    • Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

    • Be sure to only pry up on the connector, and not on the socket on the logic board.

    You might get a more “modernised” part from eBay (for this very model, iPhone 5c) which has an ENTIRE CABLE missing… if you look closely, it’s been re-directed into the middle cable. And it all works perfectly, touch screen, and display. So it’s a optimisation.

    In summary - if you get this version of the screen, you only need to deal with 2 cables, not 3. The rightmost socket will remain empty.

    domarius - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  14. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 15, image 1 of 3 iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 15, image 2 of 3 iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 15, image 3 of 3
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the LCD cable connector.

    • The LCD and Digitizer connectors are on the same cable assembly, so prying the LCD connector up should disconnect both connectors. Double check that the two cables are fully disconnected before removing the display.

    • When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off its connector. A blank screen, or white lines on the display could be caused by a loose connection. Should this happen, reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

    I replaced the broken front panel of the iPhone 5c and got the "famous white stripes" on the new screen. Reading about all kind of problems that the lcd/digitizer cable contacts may cause, I compared the cable connectors of the original Apple and the replacement part I bought online with a 35x magnifying glass. The quality difference was visible: The white description on the original part on the cable next to the connector is: 821-1784-A, while the inferior replacement part is: 821-1784-02. Check out the two numbers online and insist getting the "A" to avoid future troubles !!!

    Harold Wallner - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This person above is not knowledgeable. That number is a camera proxy part number, not the lcd or digitizer number. It changes with production date, both for original and aftermarket ones. A, B, D, 02, 04, 08 etc. Can all be either or.

    vince -

    Apple uses numerical revisions (-02) for pre-production parts, and alpha revisions (-A) for production revisions. It looks like you got a preproduction assembly, or a knock-off.

    terrymccallum -

    There are, in fact, three connectors in this step, not two. The front-facing camera and digitizer connector (Step 11) is really difficult to align when you put it back. Took me about 15 minutes before I succeeded.

    Now I have a different problem. Everything works just dandy, EXCEPT:

    Towards the bottom of the screen (in portrait) there is a horizontal line that is dead to the touch. For example, on the keyboard, I can use the spacebar, but not C V B N M, etcetera.

    Three possibilities in my mind: One, when I dropped it, something else besides the glass and digitizer, etc, was damaged.

    Two: I did not replace the cables correctly. This seems unlikely. They all "clicked" into place and stayed there.

    Three: The digitizer supplied is faulty.

    Comments? Which cable/connector could be causing this -- if it is that?

    piet - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Take apart, Clean Connections, Put back together.... If same problem sounds like a fault part...

    duston -

    When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.

    The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.

    jimbbo - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If the ESD plate covering the connectors is properly re-attached to the phone, you should not have to do this. The cover holds all the connectors in place just fine.

    iBroke -

    I replaced the display assembly to resolve an issue with the phone not responding to any touch input. I assumed it was a bad digitizer. However, I have the same problem with the new display assembly—no touch response at all. The phone starts up fine and the screen works, I just can’t “slide to unlock”. This is also preventing me from downloading photos from the phone since I can’t enter the passcode. I have cleaned the connections and reseated the cables. Is it possible this is a problem on the logic board? If so, is there any way to get the photos off the phone since I can’t enter the passcode on the screen?

    ewistey - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  15. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, Separating front panel assembly and rear case: step 16, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

  16. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, SIM Card: step 17, image 1 of 2 iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, SIM Card: step 17, image 2 of 2
    • Shut your phone down completely before removing the SIM card and tray.

    • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press the SIM card eject tool inwards to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force.

  17. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 18, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.

    • During reassembly, ensure that the SIM card is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

  18. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, Battery: step 19, image 1 of 3 iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, Battery: step 19, image 2 of 3 iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, Battery: step 19, image 3 of 3
    • Run the tip of a spudger between the battery and the headphone jack to unfold the battery adhesive tab.

    I didn't need to remove the battery to replace the lightning connector assembly. Skip past steps 17 through 25.

    jacobstevens - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I agree, waste of time and you risk damaging the battery if the adhesive is too strong.

    ForumHermit -

    the adhesive tab is actually folded back upon itself. Gentle agitation on what appears to be the edge will in fact show you that it is flexible and can be "unfolded". When unfolded, it will allow you to see what they are talking about. GENTLE is the operative word !

    V. Jones - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I also didn't need to remove the battery to replace the lightening cable. I'd say skip it unless you have big fingers, because it is a tight space.

    Benjamin Browning - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The adhesive tab has a small extension tab with a hole in the end closest to the ear phone jack. If you stick the tip of your spudger through it, you can use it to lift one end and get you started.

    John Pitts - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  19. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 20, image 1 of 1
    • Pull the battery adhesive tab away from the phone.

    It is a must to use a little heat. In my instance I used some hand warmers. My first attempt was with some older ones that didn’t get too hot. I then pulled out some others and using a little bit of time and several hand warmers it seemed to soften the grip of the tape underneath the battery. Using a hair dryer might have been my next step had my hand warmer trick not worked. USE HEAT!!!! It is your friend.

    V. Jones - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Removing the charging port can make accessing the pull tabs easier.

    guardian10 - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  20. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 21, image 1 of 2 iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 21, image 2 of 2
    • Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them.

    Pulling upwards with a gentle tug on the now exposed black end of the adhesive tab will reveal a white film (look at the end of the tweezers). This white/black interface will have a small cutout already in the middle. Cut the adhesive tab using this as a midpoint guide.

    V. Jones - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Use heat beforehand to soften the grip of the sticky double sided tape that is used to keep the battery in place. USING HEAT IS A PREREQUISITE if you want this to go smoother. I also ended up using a little dental floss the come from underneath and then used it to saw back and forth to loosen the grip of the tape. Just take your time and use the magic of heat to loosen the grip.

    V. Jones - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  21. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 22, image 1 of 2 iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 22, image 2 of 2
    • Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

    • Slowly pull one of the battery adhesive strips away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip as it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

    • Guide the strip carefully around the corner and up the side of the battery. Be careful not to snag it on any of the other internal iPhone components.

    • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling, re-grabbing the strip near the battery if necessary, until the entire strip comes free.

    I pulled the first tab straight up and it snapped. I tried to see if I could pry the battery out but couldn't without bending the battery. So I left the battery in and was able to complete this without removing it. However, I'm pretty sure I damaged the battery. Waiting on the replacement battery now to confirm. Long story short, leave the battery in for this fix!

    lew - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    When I tried to remove the adhesive, it snapped on both sides. Even though I was careful not to bend or twist. But now the battery is still stuck in place. What do I do now?

    lynn - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Keep reading; there are some additional steps you can take toward the end of the guide. The battery is much easier to remove if you keep the pull tabs intact, but they can be tricky.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My tabs broke. I had to pry the battery out. Took my time and it came out okay. The adhesive residue was a pain to remove though.

    mwtort - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    My tabs broke as well, quite close to the battery's lower corners. Then I discovered a reasonably hot surface to place the phone - my quite old Apple Airport Extreme. I warmed the phone for a couple of 3 minute sessions, that didn't loosen the glue but made it more malleable. Then proceeded to carefully pull the tab on the logic board's side with tweezers, which was a success. After that I could get an old ID card under the battery and push the other tab into itself. That done, the glue basically gave out and the battery was free.

    So my advice would be to use some sort of heat before pulling on the tabs, which will make them a bit easier to work with. It does take some time but result counts, right?

    jukkaharkonen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This is the most awful thing: removing the battery. The adhesive holds sooo strong. I ripped it off very soon. So i heated the back of the iPhone with a hair dryer up and opened the battery with scissors. Then i could draw the battery off.

    5c is much better to repair then my last repaired iPhone. A 3gs :-)

    Tanx ifixit. You are the best.

    Achim Graether - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I don't thnk we need Steps 9 to 12 to remove the battery

    Leave the display attached is you only need to replace the battery !!!

    lmusolino -

    @lmusolino of course you can skip those steps (9-12) but it's risky for those digitizer to be damaged if you are careless while removing the battery.

    John Mark Booc -

    This was more tricky than I thought. I bent the original battery quite hard to get it of, while blowing the phone with a hair dryer. I fixed two 5c's for my kids and I ordered one kit and a extra battery. I didn't understand when ordering that just one pair of adhesive strips came along, with the kit. I partial them using one strip each on the phones. Hope that it will work. Everything seems to work with the phones.

    Peter Rousu - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Don't pull too hard or it will break just gently apply presaure

    Shsjsjakkaka - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    If u do break the tabs the lift the top end of th battery and get them from that end

    Shsjsjakkaka - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    the adhesive is very strong and does NOT pull free. you MUST use heat (iopener) or similar to apply heat to it. go slow and when (not if) the adhesive snaps you will have to find a way to shove a spudger or an old credit card under the battery. after that, just rub your finger over the adhesive firmly and “roll” it out. this stuff is really nasty.

    matt - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Whilst pulling the adhesive strips from beneath the battery, I was making sure to not pull too fast and also to keep in flat, not twisted, and it still snapped on both sides way before I even got half way… I haven’t had my battery replaced at all so the adhesive should be authentic Apple factory standards. Be SUPER careful at this stage people, I’m going to try and remove the battery with the adhesive in place :S

    Steve Hind - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Both my tabs broke immediately with the gentlest tug, as if they were dry and ready to come off. So I heated the back of the phone with warm heat from a hair dryer and was able to push a thin flexible plastic piece (thinner than a credit card but strong enough to be pushed in) under the corner of the battery near its connector. It would go in only so far, so I kept reheating and pushing it in more, moving up the long side of the battery. This works because you’re pushing toward / against the frame side so you can exert enough pressure. You don’t need to pry or lift the battery up (and you shouldn’t anyway because you may damage the components along the side of the battery and/or the battery itself) until it’s mostly loose.

    David K Slay - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    This part was really difficult. After reading other comments, I applied heat right away (I balanced my phone and screen (rubber-banded like in step 8) on top of the iOpener - had to be very careful to keep it balanced). The case-side strip pulled around the battery corner and snapped; the logic board-side strip snapped immediately.

    I couldn’t get plastic cards or triangle wedges in far enough to get leverage; I carefully used two spudgers to pry up the bottom of the battery. From there I used tweezers to grab the edge of the logic-side adhesive. It took many tries to grab enough to continue to pull it, but once I had it, I got the whole strip out. Then my battery was loose enough to pry it up and off of the other strip with a plastic card.

    It’s definitely easier to get the battery out if you can get the logic board-side strip out. The strips came out easier when I stopped pulling and grabbed the base instead of pulling from the end. I tried to keep the angle as flat as possible but there’s not much room.

    Renee - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Both tabs broke. I tried heat multiple times and alcohol. Based on this step the rating on this repair should be changed to difficult. It is too easy to damage other cables. I’ve damaged some cable but I don’t know which one from the videos. I would say if you get to this point and it doesn’t come up easily after applying heat, go to a professional or risk further damage to other components. It is very difficult to use the card to pry without damaging something.

    Carolyn Amparan - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Now that the phone is reassembled, I can say that what is broken is the touch sensitivity on the screen. The sensory perception is off.

    Carolyn Amparan - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Now that the phone is reassembled, I can say that what is broken is the touch sensitivity on the screen. The sensory perception is off.

    Carolyn Amparan - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    THE FLOSS is where it’s at. Heat slowly and work the floss through.

    eastkyprog - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    When I (gently) start pulling strips, they both TORN.

    After try out (unsuccessfully) different recommendations, it works out the one with (pure) ALCOHOL.

    My way was in particularly like that: I take SPUDGER and wet it FLAT-HEAD with alcohol. And start to pry up battery from left side, near middle (there's some more space). Step by step, for a LITTLE bit, deeper and deeper, and EVERYTIME to wet spudger with alcohol. So all way down to bottom, and from the bottom (not from the motherboard on the right, and upper side at all). It takes couple (or more) dozens prying ups. Eventually battery came off, and leave adhesive at the case (removed with alcohol and spudger again).

    C O - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  22. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 23, image 1 of 2 iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 23, image 2 of 2
    • Repeat to remove the second strip.

    I was able to remove the first strip as the guide discusses in Step#20. When I attempted to peel the second strip, as in Step #21 above, it broke. This left the adhesive strip on half of the battery and I was unable to grip anything. I got some dental floss and threaded it underneath the already free side. I then used a slight back and forth motion to loosen the grip of the other half of the strip enough that I could "GENTLY" pry the free side of the battery up. Taking extreme care not to pry against any components of the phone. I then gently pried the battery up a little at a time along with using a sawing motion on the dental floss to eventually free the battery from the underlying adhesive strip. Takes patience and persistence. GENTLY being the operative word.

    V. Jones - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    At this step, be VERY careful with the two gold-colored prongs (pins) right next to the lightening cable port. If you crush/bend/collapse these pins, they won’t make contact with the screen side when re-assemble the phone, making your Home button non-functional.

    If accidentally collapsed the pin because you pushed on it, be VERY careful bending it back. You have one shot at getting this right. Over-bending leads to the pins breaking off, and then you’re really f’ed. That’s what happened to me, and I had to solder some tin onto the base to build-up to the right height; very tedious. This shows photo of what I’m talking about.

    Jack Chang - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The adhesive tape snapped on me as well. Tried strong cotton to cheesewire it out, much like the dental floss, but didn’t work, kept snapping. Tried a little heat from hair drier, didn’t help! Had to prise the bottom end up enough to insert very thin metal scaper, approx. 1” wide and slowly force it up . Nerve wracking, but finally came out.

    Oops, just seen the next step was to help with this problem!

    I did not use the recommended tools, so it’s not the best advice.

    Alex Keen - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  23. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 24, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the battery from your iPhone.

    • If one, or both, of the adhesive strips tears, and you are unable to retrieve it with a set of tweezers, do not pry the battery out of the phone. Continue on to the next steps to safely remove your battery.

    Use heat before attempting to remove adhesive strips. They will break. Heat helps tp loosen the grip and is your friend. Dental floss can also be a good helper to saw back and forth once you get it under one corner of the battery. Go slow and take your time. USE HEAT BEFOREHAND. I FOUNF THAT IT TOOK A GOOD 3-5 minutes to get everything hot enough to loosen the grip of the tape.

    V. Jones - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  24. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, Battery removal with latent adhesive: step 25, image 1 of 2 iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, Battery removal with latent adhesive: step 25, image 2 of 2
    • Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) under the battery and let it flow around the adhesive to help weaken it. High concentration isopropyl alcohol acts as a solvent and dries without leaving any residue, so it will not hurt your iPhone.

    • Carefully wedge a plastic card under the battery on the side nearest the logic board.

    • Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.

    • Avoid prying near the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the upper component ribbon cable.

    • Slide the card from the top of the battery to the bottom, pushing toward the edge of the case.

    • If necessary, repeat the same procedure with the case side of the battery.

    A picture of the position of the upper ribbon cable would be useful here. I have falsely thought that you only have to be careful around the top edge of the battery that is near the logic board, and have managed to cut the upper component cable with the plastic card.. :(

    Daniel Boros - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    The third bullet of this step has a link to two photos of the cable.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you’ve pried the battery out near the bottom, you might want to reseat the speaker assembly after putting the new battery back in - it’s very easy to knock the speaker and lightning connectors loose when getting the battery out this way.

    Tom Reeve - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I destroyed the ribbon cable that runs down the side of the case toward the headphone jack (not mentioned in the instructions!) while trying to wedge the battery out with a credit card. Am I SOL or is there a fix?

    Peter Hill - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Sounds like you hit the upper component cable mentioned in red in the instructions. “Avoid prying near the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the upper component ribbon cable.” You’ll likely need to replace the cable, or use on-screen accessibility button replacements. If you’d like to post photos to our Answers Forum, you may get more specific help for your situation. Best of luck!

    Sam Goldheart -

    Wow. Good luck removing your battery by this method. The adhesive on mine was impossible to remove, finally the battery foil peeled off, the battery was totally destroyed, and I had to scrape the adhesive off the phone bit by bit. Scary to abuse a lithium battery that way… Destroyed my ribbon cable, too, so now I can spend another $30 and a bunch more time… Wow. Not recommended; impossible to accomplish as described. Battery is not removable. Those adhesive strips are from !&&*. There is no reason to use that adhesive in that location, except to deliberately make the phone non-serviceable. Once the adhesive gets old, it just snaps and heat doesn’t help. Good luck.

    Torrence Matson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Well… That was interesting. I dropped my phone this morning at some weird angle and the housing bent a little. I opened the phone only to reveal a torn battery. The adhesive strips were so old they were impossible to remove even after I removed the exploded battery. Just, wow, I never thought a caseless phone drop + a hot summer day would result in this. What a scary thing to see blue-green chemical flames inside a phone! I’ve never seen this happen with a Note 7 so I thought I’d never see a burning battery, but boy was I wrong!

    Ryan Scott - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    dental floss works great but needs lots of pressure and heat

    Kristin Schweppenheiser - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  25. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 26, image 1 of 1
    • If the battery is still stuck to the case, follow our iOpener heating instructions or use a hair dryer to heat the adhesive securing your battery to the rear case.

    • Lay the iOpener flat on the backside of the iPhone to the right of the camera. Smooth it out so that there is good contact between the back of the iPhone and the iOpener.

    • Let the bag sit on the iPhone for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to remove the battery.

    • If using a hair dryer or heat gun, heat the back of the iPhone until it's slightly too hot to touch.

    • Do not apply heat directly to the battery.

    • Overheating the iPhone may ignite the battery.

    you can substitute a 'bed buddy' or similar microwave activated heating pack here for the iOpener. i eventually wound up working on-top-of the heading pad as at softened the adhesive. take your time and let the heat work

    Pritchett Harris - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    A hairdryer works too. Aim it at the same spot on the back of the phone, don't let it get too hot though.

    Dan Harris - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    Instead of using the iOpener, I opted for my “patented” “Rice in a sock” and heated the sock for 1 minute, which worked perfectly. I laid the heated sock flat and used it as a mini work bench while removing the adhesive strip! My wife uses this for when she has head aches, which caused “me to not have a headache”, when peeling back the adhesive strips!

    iScott - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

    I always have to do this because the adhesive strips never work because they can’t be pulled out at a flat enough angle. As you heat the back of the case in preparation for battery removal, also load some heat into some kind of smooth, flat metal tool to slide under one end of the battery as you pry it up. This makes for much less prying on the battery and much less chance of damaging it. It also makes for faster removal. The metal spatula tool provided in the fixit Pro Tech Toolkit, Pro Tech Toolkit, (an earlier version of which I use CONSTANTLY and is one of the most used toolkits I have) is perfect for this job.

    NMranchhand - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  26. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 27, image 1 of 1
    • Lift and remove the battery from the iPhone.

    • If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.

    • There should be no resistance. If the battery remains stuck, reheat the iOpener and pry again.

    • If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove it before installation by pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.

    • Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the motherboard socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.

    • Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.

    • If your new battery doesn’t have adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide to replace the adhesive strips.

    • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

    My repair went well. However, the teeny screws were a nuisance putting the parts back. I have relatively large hands, so I used the tweezers. I finally got all of them in, save one. It popped out, and I thought I lost it. Luckily, it was stuck to my hand! The magnetic screwdriver helped, but if it was off a bit it would pull the screw out. Not bad for my first repair. Apple must use elves to assemble their products.

    John Thomson - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0

  27. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement, Volume Controls: step 28, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws from the hold switch bracket.

  28. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 29, image 1 of 2 iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 29, image 2 of 2
    • Remove this hold button bracket clip and set it aside.

    • During reassembly, ensure the angled portion is to the right.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the hold switch bracket down.

  29. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 30, image 1 of 1
    • Use tweezers to remove the hold switch.

    • Note the orientation for reassembly: The red line should be at the top of the button. The notch in the back of the hold switch button should be in the same position as, and mate with, the mechanical switch on the cable.

  30. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 31, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the volume rocker bracket to the side wall.

  31. iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 32, image 1 of 2 iPhone 5c Volume Controls Replacement: step 32, image 2 of 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to fold the volume rocker bracket down from the side wall.

    • Remove the volume rocker.

    Please help, when i finished the reassembly for this step, the vibration/ring switch is stuck and won't move, where i'm wrong? thanks a lot (sorry for my english)

    Foster - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.


Andrew Optimus Goldheart


486,362 crwdns2915208:0crwdne2915208:0



iFixit crwdns2886886:0iFixitcrwdne2886886:0





Thank you a million times over. Without yoyr guide I eould never know where that easher wehtvon thevmute swutch. I sesrched for days and no other guide covered that. Bb you saved je a bigger headache

sharon - crwdns2853112:0crwdne2853112:0



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