no, do not use super-glue. Quite some of these ‘screw-holders’ are screws themselves with e hollow tread in the head (didn’t find the correct naming for it) - just like the things you screw into a PC case and fasten the mainboard on.

*warning* … this connector assembly is very messy to re-build. Next time I change such a battery, I’ll try to get it out carefully *without* detaching the display unit. My resumée: *never* unscrew more things than necessary. These things are not M five (5 mm bolt diameter) like on a bike, these are M zero-point-five. Even for a smirf, this is tiny stuff.

Careful - there is a chaos about different sockets (must be »M«), and the FSB speed must be the same as of the originally built-in processor.

Thanks Rob - it is always a good idea to replace this quite cheap but important battery when such a machine is opened once. They keep the internal clock holding time / date, and when this is faulty, some models even refuse to start up.

There are two important points about which Core2Duo CPUs can be used:

1. socket 'M' (not 'P' or other variants sold with the same type)

2. FSB speed 166 MHz = 667 Mt/s (not faster or slower, as it can't be set in BIOS)

This leaves few choices (the 'T' and 'S' identifiers are on the upper label):

- T5500 / SL9SH or SLGFK or SL9U4 (all 1.66 GHz)

- T5600 / SL9SG or SL9U3 (both 1.83 GHz)

- T7200 / SL9SF (2 GHz)

- T7400 / SL9SE or SLGFJ (both 2.17 GHz)

- T7600[G] / SL9SD or SL9U5 (both 2.33 GHz)

The 'T7' ones are preferable because of 4 MB L2 cache (others offer 2 MB) - clock speed is less crucial.

I didn't test all CPUs, got data from spec lists.

A tri-wing screwdriver sold as 'for Nintendo Wii' marked 'HFA 360/ x50' did the job. I replaced the screws with standard-head M2x6mm metric screws (M2 = 2 mm thread, 6 mm length of threaded part). Exactly, I took them out of an old hard-disk (with torx head and slightly shorter).