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Follow the steps in this guide to replace a faulty, aging, or swollen battery in an iPad mini 4 LTE.
Lithium-ion batteries contain dangerous chemicals and may catch fire and explode if punctured or mishandled. Use caution and follow all warnings.
If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Parts of this guide were shot with a Wi-Fi model and as such the internals may look slightly different from the LTE model. The procedure is the same for both models except where noted.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Safety Glasses$3.19
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered. For particularly bad breaks, you may need to lay down two layers.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge for two minutes.
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Apply a suction cup halfway up the heated side.
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Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.
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While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap.
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While holding the glass up with the suction cup, insert the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.
“Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.”
Unfortunately, you only know you have inserted it too far when you have, and you start seeing little bubble veins form between the glass screen and the LCD.
The adhesive can be very stiff/hard, and if pushing through it can result in the pick plunging into the LCD when the adhesive finally gives way.
Take your time, use alot of heat, and if you need to try and push the pick in, try and do so in a slicing motion along the edge, use the wide edge, or hold the pick so that your finger will hit the edge of the screen before the pick tip will pass the bezel.
Adhesive strips are only 1mm wide on sides. Up to 5mm wide top and bottom. I used the Isclack. Screen seemed ok bending without breaking. Worth looking for a photo of the replacement adhesive strips so you know what you have to separate. Be extra careful at the lower right corner where the cables are.
This is a failure of a guide as it doesn’t tell you to insert at a downward angle so you don’t potrude into the LCD… Now I have to spend more money to replace the screen as I pushed adhesive between the LCD and the screen even though I went no farther than a millimeter short of the screen...
can you open the right side if the left is too cracked to use a suction cup on?
This guide needs amending urgently.
You MUST NOT put the pick or whatever you are using more than 2mm under the sides of the screen, or you will cut through the adhesive tape securing the backlight assembly to the LCD glass.
This will push adhesive into the viewable area of the LCD and cause the backlight assembly to no longer be secured against the LCD fully.
I now need a new screen.
This line below from the guide is absolutely INCORRECT and will ruin your expensive display:
”Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display.”
The black bezel is 5mm to 6mm wide; you MUST NOT insert anything to that depth or you will destroy your display. 2mm maximum!
thanks. will take this into account for my repair
Adab Abu -
I too damaged my display because of this absolute nonsense (The German version, which I used, still had this INCORRECT portion in it). I can't believe how long it took iFixit to update this, even though people have been reporting this for years on end. Sadly iFixit still haven't updated a variety of other things that are still at the very least high risk instructions. I just messaged them the other day, but they don't seem to care about or understand the remaining issues that this guide has. At least they updated one of the most severe things, but they just plainly told me 'I'm wrong' about the rest. I liked iFixit it so far, and I've worked on a variety of (difficult) repairs - but this experience was a very huge let down.
A few thoughts after opening a number of Mini 4’s.
1) if the display is warm enough you can squeeze the digitizer and LCD back together after a minor incursion with the opening pick and it will reseal.
2) I’ve started going in at the top just to the right of the camera (I use an iFlex to get in then switch to a pick). Then I run down either side with my fingers choked up on the pick so there only a mm or 2 sticking out. Usually after running down one side, I can get the display open enough to get the pick in behind the LCD when I do the other side
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Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the left edge for a few minutes.
If your iPad is cold, consider leaving the iOpener on for longer than 5 minutes. The aluminum housing is a very large thermally dissipating mass and will quickly cool off the glass and make you have to start over and wait the 10 minutes to reheat. There’s a very slim window in which you’re able to insert the pick into the glass adhesive before it solidifies once again. I’ve been fighting with it for like 20 minutes following these instructions and it’s not working. You really need to leave it for longer than just 5 minutes to get the back housing hot too.
Heat is essential. I used a 3d printer’s heated set at 65 degrees. Chris Storer’s stip above saved me as you really need to let it sit for quite a while to soften the adhesive. Since I was doing a battery change, I heated both sides as the aluminum back is a huge heatsink that really sucks up the heat. Don’t try forcing it; if the suction cup isn’t pulling a gap in the screen, leave it on the heater for additional time.
Love the 3d printer idea, I hadn’t thought of that! I have used a heat gun as well but you have to be very careful to not use too much heat. Also watch for inserting the pick too far, it is really easy to delaminate glass from the display!
russ -
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Insert a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
I have found that wedging a blue pry tool in between the frame and the glass can give you a better edge enough to slide the pick in.
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Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.
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If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
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Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
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If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.
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Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.
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As you reach the front-facing camera, pull the pick out slightly and continue sliding it across the top edge.
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Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.
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Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.
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Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.
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Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
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Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.
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Insert a new opening pick and slide it down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
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Continue sliding the opening pick down the right edge of the iPad, reheating the edge using an iOpener if necessary.
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Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.
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Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.
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Insert a new opening pick at the bottom right corner of the display, below the last opening pick you used to slice down the right edge.
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Rotate the new pick around the lower right corner of the device.
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Slide the pick from the bottom right corner along the lower edge of the device. Stop about half an inch shy of the home button.
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Insert a final opening pick at the lower left corner of the iPad, directly below the existing one.
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Slide the pick around the lower left edge of the iPad.
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Continue sliding the pick at the lower left edge of the display toward the center of the iPad, until it is roughly half an inch from the home button.
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Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad to break up the last of the adhesive holding the display assembly in place.
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Lift the display from the top edge to open the device.
"Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPadTwist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad "
When I did this twisting motion, and I thought I was being gentle, one of the picks cracked nearly in half. That adhesive is very strong! I probably did not cut into it far enough before applying the twisting to open the screen.
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Remove the four 1.2 mm Phillips screws over the battery/display connector bracket.
What you need to do is move the display inboard up to the edge area of battery! That will relieve all the stress on the cables. Simply holding it straight up is not enough, especially later when you go back to reconnect the cables and the bracket over the connectors.
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Remove the battery/display cable bracket.
Your bracket may look different to this. Mine had a black covering on the long edge being held between the fingers in this illustration. Same screws, same position, just a different color.
Is it the end of the world if the bracket is not reinstalled, will the device function normally or will it eventually have issues with the connectors coming loose following shock?
Note that the left had side of the bracket hooks under a lip on the edge of the case. Always recommend to replace connector brackets. If you forget and leave it out, best to buy a new set of adhesive strips for the day when the connector comes loose.
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Use the flat tip of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the logic board.
When i was starting to disconnect the lcd to the board i hit the black film and it lit and now even the new display wont display anything how to fix it? The black film near the lcd connector.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the display assembly.
Ich habe eine Bücherstütze benutzt um das Display in senkrechter Position zu halten, während ich die vier Schräubchen gelöst habe.. So zieht man nicht so an den Flexkabeln….!
Because the 3-piece adhesive strips shown in the Display Adhesive Application Guide link were different from iPad Mini 4 Adhesive Strips (item code IF316-013-1), it wasn't easy to figure out the exact location of the bottom adhesive. It would be helpful to include a separate application guide or an additional picture showing the exact location of each strip) on the guide.
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Reheat your iOpener.
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Lay the iPad face down on your work surface and place the iOpener on the rear case, where the lower edge of the battery is.
Use blow dryer on low instead. Much easier and much faster.
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In the following steps you will be cutting the adhesive under the battery, and prying it off of the rear case.
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The adhesive is laid out as shown in this image: two strips along the long edges, and two shorter strips perpendicular in the center.
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To avoid damaging the battery, use plastic tools, heat, and patience. Do not puncture, bend, or overheat the battery.
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Do not pry near the logic board, you could damage your iPad.
The only tape adhesive kit that iFixit sells is incomplete for the cellular model. The are five extra small pieces of tape that go inboard around the cellular antenna. You will need to request another tape kit from iFixit, like I recently did, to cut custom pieces for that section. Amazingly I got pushback on that and was told that their kit is correct for the cellular model too, even after showing clear and obvious closeup photos of the leftover adhesive in those sections. That’s inexcusable for a repair site!
In general the tape of the battery to open is more work and need more head the the Display. The Headsink of the backhousing and batterie itself is big.. I in the end used an big hot air dryer to heat up the backside of the Pad!!
I found that using the heated bed of my 3D printer is the best solution for these jobs. Set the bed temperature to 70 celcius, leave the iPad or phone on it for 5-10 minutes.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Plastic Cards$2.99
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Insert the corner of a plastic card between the lower end of the battery and the rear case.
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Press the card until approximately an inch and a half is underneath the battery.
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Insert a second plastic card between the battery and first card, this time with the card edge parallel to the battery.
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Again, press the card in until about an inch and a half is underneath the battery.
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Insert a third plastic card between the first and second ones, this time aligned with the left edge of the battery.
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Continue to cut the adhesive under the battery until the battery is freed.
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Reheat and reapply your iOpener when prying becomes difficult. Be sure to wait for the iOpener to cool between sessions.
The iopener kit only includes 2 cards
That’s what old credit cards are for.
the kit still has only 2 cards. 03/2020
I use dental floss and a bit IPA as „lubricant“. Takes less than 5 min.
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Remove the battery.
Reassembling it is not simply a matter of following the reverse of the disassembly instructions. You need to clean off all the adhesive tape pieces and residue. That is by far the most time consuming and potentially damaging part of this job. The adhesive will be very difficult to get off in some places. I use a combination of blow dryer with low heat, the pointed end if the plastic prying stick to rub it off, chiseled cut pieces of pencil eraser sticks, to rub it down even more, then finally, and very, very carefully, alcohol to get the residue off. Just wet enough on cotton cloth and cotton swabs to wipe but not to have it seep into delicate areas! Rub along and outboard of the edge of the display only to avoid damaging edge. It you don’t remove all the tape pieces and residue and have a clean and level result for the new tape then the display will not only not sit flush like a new iPad but it will not stick well!
Cellular model users see my important comment about thecelluar model in the beginning of the guide!
One big hint will be first to fix the batterie connector in the socket before You “drope” the battery in place! The new battery is a little bit smaller and if the battery ist fixed on the bottom, You have no chance to connect the plug without any damaging the socket!!!
One more hint conerning the tape which fix the Glass in the frame: I used the old tape and looked only that its “nearly undistroyed”.
A few overstreched pieces i cut away. It works fine!! After fixation in the frame of the Pad I heated up the whole Pad with a Hairdryer and pressed together again! Looks good !
Thanks general for this Documentation - Evan! ……..
For those worrying about glue residue, use pure IPA to soften the glue. Makes it very easy to remove. I also get it behind batteries when trying to remove them, they come unstuck much easier
You can clearly see there are four pieces of Plastic cards. In the kit there are only two. what would help would be a plastic card that is at least three times longer, so that it can be pressed bellow the battery.
You can make really short work of the glue residue by using Goo Gone. Spray it on a cotton cloth first sparingly (not on the device) and wipe it on the glue areas. It will come up very quickly. Then take a dry paper towel to ensure you don't leave any Goo Gone residual.
Really good tuto, Take your time and you will did it. As usual read read again look all picture, zoom on it and every thinks will go right.
You don't have to unplug or disconnect the battery somehow? You just "remove the battery?"
Step 26 specifically says "Use the flat tip of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the logic board."
klcox71 -
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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This guide doesn’t specify cleaning or technique of adding the new adhesive strips. Disappointing…
This guide is incomplete and needs to have the remaining steps explained out… For one, put the adhesive strips on the back of the screen, not into the chassis…
This guide says ABSOLUTELY NOTHING about where the display and digitizer cables are connected. NO warning to be extremely careful in the bottom right corner where the display is connected. I was under the impression that I could stick a pick in to every corner of the iPad which is NOT the case. I’m just disappointed that because of this error in explanation I now have to buy a replacement screen. I hope the author and others performing this repair see this and let me be the person to screw up my screen not you! Again, disappointed!
Hi Karl,
I’m really sorry to hear that! I will add warnings to the appropriate steps to hopefully help mitigate this issue. If you purchased the screen from iFixit, please contact our support team at help.ifixit.com!
Exactly same happen to me! Replaced the battery, the iPad mini cannot be started. Just showing stripes on the display. I’ve read this instructions a few times but seems to missed the cables as well.. Too bad it was my kids’ iPad.
I would like to see one video showing how to open the ipad-mini 4 using the IOpener. Is there any?
Touch ID no longer working after replacing the battery.
