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Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.
Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0iMac Intel 27" Cardboard Service Wedge$4.99
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With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs can be completed with the iMac laying down, but are faster and easier with an iMac service wedge.
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If you are using the iFixit cardboard service wedge, follow these assembly directions to put it together.
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Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case.
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Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.
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Run the tool up along the left side of the display.
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Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.
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Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.
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Continue along the top of the display.
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Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.
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Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.
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Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.
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crwdns2935267:0crwdne2935267:0Plastic Cards$2.99
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Set the iMac face-up on a table.
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Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.
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Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame, and cut any remaining adhesive near the corner.
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Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.
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Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.
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Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.
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Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.
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Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.
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Insert the card back into the top left corner.
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With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case.
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If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.
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Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.
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While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable.
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Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.
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Disconnect the display data cable.
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Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.
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Remove as much of the adhesive as possible by grabbing it at the outer edges, and then pulling or rolling it towards the middle.
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If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.
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Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. Lay the display face down on a flat, soft surface.
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It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.
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If there is a wire or cable underneath adhesive tape, always pull the tape off first.
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If the cable is glued to the chassis, use a heated iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive first. You can then slide an opening pick underneath the cable to loosen it. Never pull directly on the delicate connectors.
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Slide an opening pick underneath the foam cushion pieces to separate them from the display, and gently pull them off. You may need some double sided tape to re-attach them to the new display.
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Remove two 10 mm T10 screws.
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Unplug the left speaker cable by pulling it straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
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De-route the cable from the gap between the hard drive and logic board.
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Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5 inches).
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Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker.
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Lift the left speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.
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Push from the connector end as you pull from the speaker end to thread the cable under the hard drive's right bracket.
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Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive.
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Remove two 7.3 mm T10 screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.
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Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together.
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Tilt the left side up away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left.
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Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.
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Disconnect the power supply control cable from the power supply.
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Remove the following four screws securing the power supply to the rear case (size T8 or T10 depending on the exact model):
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Two 23.7 mm Torx screws
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Two 7.3 mm Torx screws
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Move the power supply board towards the left edge of the case and up to free it from the notch in the logic board.
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Depress the tab on the DC power cable connector, then pull it straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.
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Flip the top of the power supply towards you, like opening a mailbox, to reveal the AC inlet cable connector.
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Disconnect the AC inlet cable connector.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our Adhesive Strips Guide to reattach the display glass.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our Adhesive Strips Guide to reattach the display glass.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
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Hi, great in instructions.. I've had the power supply out for inspection...all looks good. I have NO LED's at all, Is there a way to test the power supply..?
Hi, great instructions thx, I've had the power supply out for inspection all LOOKS good, I have NO LED's at all, is there a way to test the PSU before I order one ans also how would I test the on / off switch just in case.? thx for ANY help
Why isn't there a power supply replacement part for this repair? Need a PSU for this exact machine. Is it because they used the same PSU for a few different years?
Hey Kramek did you find your power supply, I'm looking for the exact same part? Any ideas where I can find one?
This just ended my love affair with Apple. This is the second PSU fault on 2 machines over a 5 year period and in both cases, the machines have (or, in this case, will have to) return to Apple for repair. I'm thankful that Linux has finally reached the point where I can use it daily without having to worry too much. I have a fairly heavy investment in Apple software but that's just going to have to wait until the company makes user-serviceable machines again... right now, Hackintosh looks the way to go for that. I can't abide having a machine that I can't reasonably service with commonly available parts.
