crwdns2915892:0crwdne2915892:0
Use this guide to replace a blown power supply.
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Loosen the two Phillips screws securing the access door to your iMac.
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Remove the access door.
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Remove the following screws along the lower edge of your iMac:
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Three 6 mm T8 Torx screws
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One 8 mm T8 Torx screw
My iMac had four 6mm T8 Torx screws (so not one 8mm screw)
My late 2006 iMac24 also has only 4, 6mm long T8 screws here.
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To lift the front bezel off the iMac, simultaneously:
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Use your thumbs to press in the RAM arms and hold the iMac down.
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Use your index fingers to pull the small bridge of material on the front bezel toward yourself.
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Pull the front bezel up with your index fingers.
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Once the small bridge of material has cleared the RAM arms, lift the front bezel by its lower edge just enough to clear the bottom edge of the rear case.
My iMac did not have the "small bridge of material" mentioned, however the bezel just lifted off easily.
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Lift the front bezel off the rear case and rotate it away from the bottom edge of the iMac, minding the camera and microphone cables still attached to its upper edge.
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Disconnect the microphone cable.
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Disconnect the camera cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the camera board.
I found it easier not to remove the cables connecting camera and microphone, but rather to lean the plastic frame agains a pile of books so that it could rest almost vertical avoiding the need to disconnect those two sensitive cables.
I agree that for a simple, quick battery change, don't risk damaging those delicate wires. Ignore Step 6 and instead of disconnecting the mic and camera wires, keep them in place and just have a friend hold the plastic frame up while you change the battery, or prop it up as mentioned by Stefano C above.
Make sure you double check the new logic board for the presence of the GPU assembly before installing. I stupidly installed a new board without moving the GPU from the old one first. So i guess you can say this guide worked for me twice. :)
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Peel the two highlighted EMI shield tabs off the frame of the LCD.
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Remove the two T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable to the logic board.
Wait, we need a T6 screwdriver as well?
I purchased the T8 and T10 from your site as per the parts list above and now am here with an opened iMac on the dining room table unable to continue :/
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Pull the black plastic tab attached to the display data cable connector to disconnect it from the logic board.
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Use your fingertips to pull both sides of the wide inverter cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.
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De-route the inverter cable from its location next to the CPU fan.
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Remove the eight T8 Torx screws securing the display assembly to the rear case.
It would be useful to use a torx screw driver with a long, narrow shank… some of these screws are in tight places.
It may also be useful to prop up the back so it is level. This will prevent the screws from falling inside. They can be retrieved once the scene is off.
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Remove the display assembly from the iMac.
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Peel the strip of foam tape off the top edge of the CPU/GPU heat sink framework.
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Remove the following four screws:
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Two 18 mm T10 Torx coarse thread screws
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Two 14.3 mm T10 Torx fine thread screws
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Rotate the power supply out of the rear case from its left side.
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Disconnect the DC-Out cable by depressing the lock on the connector while pulling it away from its socket on the power supply.
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Disconnect the AC-In cable by disconnecting its lock while separating the two halves of its connector.
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Remove the power supply from the iMac.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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crwdns2947412:04crwdne2947412:0
I didn't do steps 8-10 and it still worked great.
The guide does not state you need a T6 until you get to the part where you need to remove the display. Please fix that.
Repair worked like a dream - took a couple of hours tops. Thanks!
Went pretty well… replaced the power supply and it started up on the first try after being idle for 5 years
