crwdns2915892:0crwdne2915892:0
Use this guide to transfer the hardware from your old optical drive to a new one.
crwdns2942213:0crwdne2942213:0
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Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.
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Lift the battery out of the computer.
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Pull the keyboard release tabs (shown in yellow) toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.
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If the keyboard does not come free, use a small flathead screwdriver to turn the keyboard locking screw (shown in orange) 180 degrees in either direction and try again.
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Flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and rest it face-down on the trackpad area.
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Loosen the four silver Phillips screws that secure the RAM shield.
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Remove the RAM shield from the computer.
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Pull the keyboard cable up from the logic board, holding the cable as close to the connector as possible.
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Close the display and flip the computer over.
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Remove the three hex screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver.
Oop's sorry on my earlier note I meant to say in step 2
In my iBook G4 (Fr), there's no T8 Torx but nut driver.
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Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.
Be careful, the rubber feet tend to jump out and get lost.
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Remove the three newly-revealed Phillips screws.
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Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.
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Remove the two Phillips screws on either side of the battery contacts.
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Push in the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.
This part scared me, never in an iFixIt guide have I seen a warning like "trying times are ahead".
I used a plastic iPod opening tool and ran it around the seam in the same order pictured. I had the plastic off in less than a minute with almost no fuss.
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There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.
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Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.
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Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.
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There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.
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Turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and toward you until the back tabs pop free.
I found it easier and "safer" to use a spudge at the back as well (two on each side of the hinge)
crwdns2936937:0Paulixcrwdne2936937:0
I found it easier and "safer" to use a spudge at the back as well (two on each side of the hinge)
I did too. Thanks, Paulix.
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Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.
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Remove the following 10 screws from the bottom shield:
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Six 3 mm Phillips
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Three 7.5 mm Phillips
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One 14 mm Phillips
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Remove the single Phillips screw securing the DC-In board.
You might not need to remove the entire DC-In board and cable. This is removed because the DC-In jack blocks the upper case from being lifted off. I just removed the screw and pushed the board slightly in when removing the upper case to provide clearance. You may want to tape the board loosely in place when the screw is out to prevent it from falling out.
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Angle the DC-In board out of its compartment.
You need to undo the adhesive halfway down the cable, so you can lift the DC board to angle it out correctly. beefybov
crwdns2936937:0beefybovcrwdne2936937:0
You need to undo the adhesive halfway down the cable, so you can lift the DC board to angle it out correctly. beefybov
Good call, beefybov.
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Lift the DC-In cable from the adhesive attaching it to the logic board.
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Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board.
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Remove the following 11 screws from the bottom of the computer:
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Three 3 mm Phillips around the battery compartment.
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Three 4.5 mm Phillips along the optical drive bezel. (a magnetic screwdriver may help to lift these screws out)
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One 12 mm Phillips in the lower right corner.
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Four 14.5 mm Phillips.
On my model, both left-side screws are short and the (lower) right screw is the long one.
Ditto
Paulix -
Sorry, this note should be for Step 25!
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Turn over the computer and open it.
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Remove the 3 Phillips screws from the edges of the keyboard area.
A soft cloth like the one you use to clean your screen with. Not a towel because of the static that might be built up in heavier fabrics.
The picture has the lower *right* screw marked as "L" -- but that's a mistake; the short screw is, as described, on the lower LEFT side.
On my computer, the screw in lower right marked "L" (long?) in the picture is M3x6mm and the other two are M3x3mm.
Long screw goes into the right bottom corner - and the 3 mm on the left - at least at the computer I did.
Yes, the LONG screw goes into the bottom RIGHT corner if the screen is facing you as it does when you're using the computer.
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Lift the upper case and use a spudger or your finger to disconnect the trackpad connector hidden beneath the white plastic tab.
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Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board. Using your fingernails, carefully pry the connector from its socket.
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Carefully disconnect the multicolored speaker cable from the logic board in the same fashion.
use 2 tweezers instead: One with a fine tip to hold down the female socket and the other (or your fingernails) to pry up the male connector. That way you can better prevent the female socket to break off from the motherboard.
This is a very tough one. I did break both the power cable and speaker cable off the motherboard, and was unable to separate the motherboard-side connectors from the cable-side connectors even after that. Fortunately, this iBook was already bricked.
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Remove the following 16 screws:
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Thirteen 3 mm Phillips.
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One 3 mm Phillips.
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Two 4 mm Phillips.
on my model, the upper yellow screw and the orange screw were 3mm as well (red colour). So only the one right yellow screw was 4 mm.
On my computer there is only one 4mm screw. The leftmost bottom right. The others are 3 mm. It is actually written on the shield: M2X3 = 3 mm. M2X4 = 4 mm.
The little tabs on the shield that are intended to contact the metal on the ports and the optical drive had been flattened out on my iBook and were no longer in contact. I didn't notice this until I had installed the shield. Make sure the tabs are bent down a bit as to contact the ports and optical drive. This system looks like it replaced the foil tape on earlier models. Just my own observation.
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Lift the top shield up from the right side, minding the upper left corner which may catch on the metal framework.
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Disconnect the Reed Switch board connector from the logic board.
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Remove the following 3 screws:
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One 3 mm Phillips in the channel between the optical drive and fan.
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One 6 mm Phillips from the upper end of the drive bezel.
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One 6 mm Phillips extending from the lower left corner of the drive.
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1) With your fingernails, grasp the locking bar on either side and pull up a small amount (about 1/16" or 2 mm).
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2) After disengaging the locking bar, slide the cable out of the connector.
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Release the optical drive ribbon clamp as described above. Slide the optical drive ribbon out of its connector.
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Lift the optical drive from the metal framework.
NOTE CAREFULLY the position of the reed switch and its wires, so that you can replace it EXACTLY as it was removed, lest you have a series of frustrating boot/sleep problems caused by a "pinching" of the board by the top case when re-assembled. (see my comment on step 36)
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Remove the tape securing the reed switch cable to the optical drive.
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Peel the reed switch board from the optical drive and set it aside.
I DID NOT remove this. There was no reason to. It's not actually attached to the old drive at all.
It is attached to the bezel and not to the drive.
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Remove the two Phillips screws securing the metal bracket and cable to the back of the optical drive.
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Peel the cable up from the top of the optical drive, removing tape as necessary, and disconnect its connector from the optical drive.
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Remove the single Phillips screw securing the bezel on the front of the optical drive.
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Use a spudger to carefully depress the two tabs on top of the bezel.
After loosening the bezel, I was able to free the side tab and rotate the bezel out from the bottom enough to clear the tabs (note Step 41).
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Hold the optical drive on its side and depress the remaining tab to free the bezel from the drive.
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Turn the drive over and remove the two Phillips screws from the bracket on the side of the drive.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
crwdns2935221:0crwdne2935221:0
crwdns2935229:028crwdne2935229:0
crwdns2935103:0crwdne2935103:0
crwdns2947410:01crwdne2947410:0
From the start. What I suggest is printing out a large photo for the steps that you will be removing screws. Tape the screws to the printout in the location that they go. This way you don't lose the screws AND you know where to put them back, exactly.
