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| [title] Picking LED bulbs | |
| - | [* icon_caution] ***For color temperature try and stay in the 5000-5500k (>90+ CRI) range as these are more beginner-friendly; 6000-6500k bulbs often require heavier WB correction or a custom WB setting.*** For >80+CRI bulbs, setting a custom WB can help offset poor light quality |
| + | [* icon_caution] ***For color temperature try and stay in the 5000-5500k (>90+ CRI) range as these are more beginner-friendly; 6000-6500k bulbs often require heavier WB correction or a custom WB setting.*** For >80+CRI bulbs, setting a custom WB can help offset the poor light quality. |
| [* icon_caution] ***IF YOUR CAMERA HAS OVEREXPOSURE ISSUES, set the exposure comp to -0.5-1.0 as needed. If this is not enough correct it in post.*** | |
| [* red] ***CFL (AVOID): Avoid using CFLs, even if you get them on clearance. They are not as bright as LEDs; take time to warm up, and contain mercury (disposal is hard). They also tend to fail young due to cheap ballasts and components that do not get along with heat.*** | |
| [* orange] ***BR30/40:*** These produce a focused beam of light which can result in better photos compared to omnidirectional bulbs. These bulbs must be used in a specific direction due to their design. | |
| [* yellow] ***A19:*** While these work the light can be somewhat unbalanced or scattered without redirection. ***You must use a minimum of 100W for good photo lighting.*** | |
| [* green] ***Multi-panel workshop lighting:*** These produce significantly more light than floodlights, but can only be used where weight is not an issue and well spaced to avoid overexposure. |