crwdns2933805:0crwdne2933805:0
crwdns2933797:0Nickcrwdnd2933797:0crwdne2933797:0
crwdns2936043:0crwdne2936043:0 crwdns2933505:0crwdne2933505:0 Nick
- crwdns2933769:0crwdne2933769:0
- crwdns2933771:0crwdne2933771:0
- crwdns2933801:0crwdne2933801:0
crwdns2933807:0crwdne2933807:0
| [title] Picking light bulbs | |
| - | [* icon_reminder] ***For color temperature try to stick to 5000k; other temperatures work but can be harder to edit for beginners. I have worked with 6500k but know how to correct WB.*** |
| - | [* icon_reminder] ***If you cannot find 5000k bulbs, a custom on-camera WB set can alleviate some problems.*** |
| - | [* icon_note] ***While not required when using poor CRI bulbs, a custom WB setting can make editing easier later to help your camera compensate. However; not all cameras support this.*** |
| - | [* red] ***CFL (AVOID): Avoid using CFL bulbs, even if you can get 5000k CFLs for almost nothing to clear stock out. They are not as bright as LED bulbs and harder to dispose of (contains mercury, cannot be avoided). This is in addition to ballasts which are prone to early failure due to cheap parts and heat problems.*** |
| - | [* orange] ***BR40 bulbs:*** These produce a focused beam of light which results in better photos compared to omnidirectional bulbs, but must be setup in a specific direction. |
| - | [* yellow] ***Multi-panel workshop lighting:*** These produce significantly more light than a BR40 floodlight, but can cause exposure issues with a subpar light meter. ***Before using these, ensure you know how to adjust the exposure comp if it proves to be necessary (~-0.5-1.0 compensation is best).*** |
| - | [* green] ***Medium base (A19):*** While these work, the light can be somewhat unbalanced and scattered. Try to direct as much light back as you can. ***You must use a 100W equivalent bulb at the minimum to get good photo lighting.*** |
| + | [* icon_reminder] ***For color temperature try to stick to 5000k; other temperatures work but can be harder for beginners to edit. I have worked with 6500k but I know what to correct.*** |
| + | [* icon_reminder] ***If you can only find 5000k bulbs with a poor/unknown CRI (usually >80+), setting a custom on-camera WB can help with some image quality issues caused by these bulbs, if the feature is supported.*** ***If you cannot find 5000k bulbs, use 5500k or 6500k LED bulbs (>90+ preferred when possible, regardless of type).*** |
| + | [* red] ***CFL (AVOID): Avoid using CFL bulbs, even if you get 5000k CFLs for almost nothing to clear out stock. They are not as bright as LED bulbs and harder to dispose of (mercury makes disposal harder and it cannot be removed). This is in addition to early failures caused by poor-quality ballasts that are caused by cheap parts or heat.*** |
| + | [* orange] ***BR40 bulbs:*** These produce a focused beam of light which results in better photos compared to omnidirectional bulbs (but must be setup in a specific direction). |
| + | [* yellow] ***Medium base (A19):*** While these work the light can be somewhat unbalanced or scattered, so you have to redirect as much light back as you can. ***You must use a 100W equivalent bulb at the minimum to get good photo lighting.*** |
| + | [* green] ***Multi-panel workshop lighting:*** These produce significantly more light than a BR40 floodlight, but can cause exposure issues with subpar light meters. ***Before using these, learn how to adjust the exposure comp on your camera if it is necessary to avoid overexposure problems. (~-0.5-1.0 compensation is best).*** |