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| [title] Picking light bulbs | |
| [* icon_reminder] ***For color temperature try to stick to 5000k; other temperatures work but can be harder to edit for beginners. I have worked with 6500k but know how to correct WB. NOTE: If you cannot find 5000k bulbs, a custom WB set on-camera can help alleviate some problems.*** | |
| [* icon_note] ***While not required when using poor CRI bulbs, a custom WB setting can make editing easier later as the camera can better compensate. However; not all cameras support this.*** | |
| [* red] ***CFL (AVOID): Avoid using CFL bulbs, even if you can get them for almost nothing with a 5000k color temperature as a way to clear stock out. They are not as bright as LED bulbs and harder to dispose of (contains mercury, cannot be avoided). This is in addition to ballasts which are prone to early failure due to cheap parts and heat problems.*** | |
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| + | [* orange] ***BR40 bulbs:*** These produce a focused beam of light which results in better photos compared to omnidirectional bulbs, but must be setup in a specific direction. |
| + | [* yellow] ***Multi-panel workshop lighting:*** These produce significantly more light than a BR40 floodlight, but can cause exposure issues with a subpar light meter. ***Before using these, ensure you know how to adjust the exposure comp down to -0.5 or so; if need be reduce it to -1.0 if -0.5 is not enough.*** |
| + | [* green] ***Medium base (A19):*** While these work, the light can be somewhat unbalanced and scattered. Try to direct as much light back as you can. ***You must use a minimum build wattage of 100W to get good light for photos.*** |